Thanks man! I appreciate you putting this year!🤙

@@TheMinuteMasters no probs, I've got access to the service data, I just like to see a video of how it's done if I can, so I appreciate the vid

@@censorshipsoldseparately612 Nice! Service manuals are great for that info. Thanks🤙

Great to hear man! These bushings aren’t the most straightforward to replace. I’m glad I was able to help ya out. Thanks for watching!🤙

Daniel Whitworth Thanks! I’m not a big fan of long videos and I like people to get right to the part they need to replace.

Yeah man good video it helped me get my 93 explorer fixed

Colt Williams You’re welcome!🤙 I appreciate it man! Glad I could help you out! Thanks for watching!

Nice! As long as you get that nut off, it's all down hill from there! Good luck!👍

Justin Banks No problem man! 🤙 You are right. There are fewer resources for these trucks anymore.

NoOneSpecific No problem man!🤙 These bushings can be difficult to change without a little research. Glad you got the job done! Thanks for watching!

Good point! I couldn’t get the correct leverage on my radius arm nut. So I opted for the impact gun.

That’s what I figured. My spacers are still in there. I which someone would make them out of steel or aluminum. The plastic can break when you tighten these poly bushings down.

Definitely a good plan man!🤙 Spend good money on a set of coil springs. In my opinion, Moog and ACDelco are garbage.

Thanks man!🤙 You’ll do well! Thanks for watching!

Thanks man!🤙 That’s what I’ve heard as another method. I wasn’t sure if Ford techs did that too.

Still took me a day

1hr 30 to do 1 side without drilling rivets it would take that long to get the rivets out let alone go buy correct bolts

Sometimes if you're lucky, you'll have a truck that already has the rivets replaced. Mine were and it's a 1978. I had to replace the bushing and discovered it was so far gone by the time I bought the truck, I had to replace the bracket and radius arm. Luckily the donor was also bolted in.

I torch the head off those rivets. Once the rivets are gone and replaced with grade 8 bolts, this is a job that can be done very quickly and literally in the parts store parking lot

You’re welcome man!🤙 Good luck!

You are most welcome Clyde! 🤙 I appreciate it. Thank you for watching! Keep that 84 running!

@@TheMinuteMasters oh yea lol ima keep it goen long as i can idc if i gotta weld patches all over for rest of my life ima keep it around

@@clydeashley2345 You and me both! Lol

Done 101 No problem! 👍 Glad you enjoyed it!

Andrew Burns Yup! They do have the same suspension! Glad it helped ya!👍

Kenny Lee Johnson Yeah I ended up using the spacer. Not matter how I feel about the design of something. I always repair it to OEM spec just to be safe.

I did the same thing. It’s the only way to get those nuts off. Nice! 🤙

Rick Knight Thats what I hear. It only budged 1/16th? Did you unbolt the axle pivot bolts for the I-beams? Thanks man!🤙

@@TheMinuteMasters No, all I needed was for it to move 1/16" more to remove it. Those aren't very flexible.

Rick Knight Ah I see. Yeah they aren’t at all.

Rick Knight you need to pull the spring and shock off then its easy!

Thanks man!🤙

Charles Hill No problem man!🤙 Glad o could help ya out! Thanks for watching!

Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!

Well at least it tells you that your I-beams are solid as well as the brackets. Nothing wrong with going with the grind off the rivets method.🤙

mega catares No problem man!🤙 Thanks for watching!

Brian Chan Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!🤙

Good to know man! Thanks for sharing!🤙

No problem man!🤙 I’m glad I could help you out. Are you saying the radius arm mount is bolted on? If the radius or mouth is bolted on you can just unbolt it slide it off replace the radius arm bushings and put it back on.

No problem man!🤙 Glad it helped ya out!

No problem man!🤙

🤣🤣🤣

😂😂😂 Years later, I’m still making people laugh! Lol

Nice! There are ways to get around pulling the axle pivot bolt for sure.

You’re welcome Gary!🤙 I’m glad I could help you out.

@@TheMinuteMasters My 1983 f150 just blew one of those out totally.Must have been 40 yrs old. Hope to follow your video steps when i get a new bushing kit nest week. Im 68yo and try to keep it going. My last vehicle was 76 dodge aspen i bought in 2001 and it lasted me 19 yrs, but lots of repairs.. . Thanks for your videos. Welldone.

@@garymahon1955 I’m sure you will replace the bushings just fine. It looks more intimidating than difficult. Good luck Gary!

I’ve heard of that method. It seems like it gets the job done. I had one guy comment on here that he tied his radius arm to a tree and just backed up. Lol F100s are cool! My dad and kid brother both had one.

Oh, I think a lot of people are capable of doing this project if you have the appropriate tools. Is the truck 4 x 4?

@@TheMinuteMasters no 2wd. Oh, I got tools. No lift though. Hard for an old man to get on and off that creeper. I gotta ball joint press. Guess I'll have to figure what size sleeve for the pivot bushings. Doing pivot and radius arm bushings. Been driving a long time not knowing what the problem was. Thought it was break issues so I rebuilt everything. Still bumping around. Thought it might be the rear end. Pulled the cover and looked. Nothing. Was under there and my driver side radius arm bushings was blown out. Going to get it on stands, tires off and tools staged up for early morning start. Appreciate your help bud. Your a good man, proud of you.

@@jayfromtexas6718 Ah! That makes sense. If you have your truck up on jack stands, it’s a good time to do all the bushings. Nice! That’s how I have to do all my repairs because I DD my truck. Thanks Jay! I appreciate it!

Thanks man!🤙 If you need any other suspension help, I’ve got more videos about it.

@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks

Thanks man!🤙

Yup!

Ambrose 🤣🤣🤣🤣 🤦‍♂️

Yeah. I cant. Im gonna saw it off. Or beat it with a hammer all day.

ThaHandyman1212 Thanks! I think they are 2 ton jack stands. If I remember correctly I bought them from a chain auto parts store. I put one jack under the I beam near the axle pivot bushing and one under the frame so the suspension could fill decompress. The placement of the jack stands won’t hurt the suspension or frame one bit. As far as height. The jack stand under the frame was extended as far as it could go and the one under the axle pivot bushing most likely was fully extended. Yeah I have 31” tires on a 15 in wheel.👍 Hope this helps!

Good point!

Ryan S I have heard of this method and I’ve heard people using a big ratchet strap hooked to a tree to pull the radius arm out of the socket. Definitely, speeds things up!🤙

I found out later that that plastic piece is needed to keep the metal from rubbing and destroying the poly. I just don’t think I they can handle the torquing down of the nut. They seem to break on everyone.

This is true and removing the rivets is the fastest method for sure. I wanted to do it the way a traditional shop would.

rubber MALLET Great read and very well written! Thanks for sharing!🤙 As of late, I’ve stopped wearing any rings, watches, or bracelets while working on my truck. I’ve seen pictures of de-gloved fingers.😖🤮 That was it. Lol No more jewelry. Besides, my watch doesn’t get banged up as much too. My latest PPE obsession is wearing eye protection. I was told by a mire senior guy that you only get one set of eyes and there’s no replacing them. All the dirt, metal, and rust that falls on your face while working under an old truck is annoying already. So between no jewelry and eye protection, I hope to live a longer more “intact” life. Keep raising awareness for us young guys. Not enough of us are taking adequate precautions on the job site or work space to protect our health.

The Minute Masters bro, you have taken the right decision by stopping the use of unnecessary jewelry while performing automotive tasks regarding your watch, just remember this, it is harder and stronger than a wrist band and may cause more personal demage or huge economic losses - just saying, bc i've seen those accidents on different shops 👉 one major thing that you must be aware of its inminent danger are cars with steel fans or cars with conventional frontal engines that have fans mounted in front of the engine bay, these fans some times have broken shrouds or not shrouds at all, so when you are testing them - lets say you are accelerating / raising rpms - these fans some times expands and if you have your body on top of it the fan will cause a deep/ profuse cut that may make you bleed to death a guy that i know, used to be an experienced carburator mechanic, did that mistake and got a deep cut under one of his arms - he lasted 15 minutes alive, when the paramedics arrived he was dead already remember: keep your eyes and ears open all the time and you'll make it to the end for sure good luck bro 👍😁

rubber MALLET Damn! I knew those radiator fans were hazardous but I never heard of fatal accident like that. I’ll definitely keep my eyes and ears open. 🤙

The Minute Masters i could probably tell you about many other serious accidents caused by people neglecting basic safety standards while on duty, but that will be a different story, but i can cite a few for example, a tire man in the middle of the jungle back in the 1970s refused to obey an order from our boss in a heavy duty repair shop - we used to repair cats, macs, peters, magirus, heavy duty equipment etc inside the jungle, the boss told him to leave alone a very expensive super huge tire that got flat on a road accident, that tire was from a caterpillar giant truck - the really big one - the boss had to go to do something to the city so he left, the tire man took advantage of it and without hesitation he installed a huge tube into a tubeless humongus tire! .. and while he was inflating it, its outer safety ring came out loose and exploded loudly, blam! the ring barely touched the tire man's forehead but that was more than enough to open his forehead in two pieces and while he was alive his brain started to show up through his wound - that was very scary to watch - he was suffering for almost 3 weeks before he passed away 😵 it happened early in the morning, around 8:30 am, at about 10 feet from were i was into my boot to get some tools 😭 and i saw countless, very stupid several deaths, limbs getting chewed or amputated by moving parts while feeding it with material from different machines or bc they were caught by leaf springs that bounced back from jack stands and they have their hands holding it, people being struck by big garbage trucks against the shop main door bc they forgot to apply the parking brake on, or mechanics running behind a big semi, people loosing their sight because hoses, batteries or radiators exploded - that is why its a good idea to use googles 😎 all the time, use gloves of any kind, working shoes and not too loose clothing 👉 and be alert all the time iow, never trust your environment, always be alert, test it again and again - specially heavy equipment being suported by jack stands or hoists, and finally, while you are slow, clean your working area, wipe out the grease out of your hoses, clean your tools, restroom, floors, trash cans, offices etc 😷 - just keep it clean lol 😁

rubber MALLET Wow! You are a wealth of stories my man! I love it. The scenery is great too. “In the jungle” makes it sound that much lore exotic. Fantastic examples of why safety is important. Tire man story is something else. I think a danger to personal safety is people not thinking they even tire rubber cab cause trauma to the body. I’m big in cleaning. I’m always reorganizing job sites and work areas.

I guess that’s what you would need to do to get that nut off.

Thanks man!🤙 I don’t know off the top of my head what size bolt. But you could buy a couple different sizes and just experiment with what fits the best.

Dillon Nelson Nice! That’s a way better price! Good to know!

The Minute Masters you're welcome. I just bought some today

Dillon Nelson Awesome! Good luck with the repair!👍

The Minute Masters thank you man. Mines 4x4 but I have a little different plan of attack.

Dillon Nelson Yeah 4x4 is definitely a little more difficult.

Nice!🤙 The radius arm bolts to the I-beam using a very long threaded bolt. The top parts of the bolt is what the spring is bolted to. The head of the bolt is on the underside of the radius arm. It’s gonna take a heck of a lot of torque to get it out. Be as prepared as you can for a tough bolt removal.

Unfortunately no. I’ve only replaced the radiator mount bushings and I never filmed that.

ThaHandyman1212 Yeah it’s definitely harder. The front diff makes the I beans heavier and the front drive shaft has to be disconnected.

You’re welcome!🤙

Attack Shovel Thanks man!🤙 If you bracket is held on by bolts you can simple remove them and unbolt the radius arm nut. Then the radius arm bracket should come off without messing with the wheel assembly. I’ve never done it that way but guys message me a lot about that method.

As a professional mechanic, that was the only way we did it. If they are still riveted, drill them out or use a cut off wheel, etc. Saves a lot of time over disassembling everything.

I would install adjustable camber bushings or at least get an alignment with the camber bushings you have. I have a video on how to install adjustable camber bushings. They are a lifesaver with TTB and I beam suspensions. I had positive camber issues.

Hi! Did you disconnect the sway bar?

Wyatt Klingensmith Thanks man!🤙 Nothing wrong with that method! Good luck!

Gmguy3car Wow! You definitely have all the interesting circumstances. Cracked bracket and 4 outer bushings is rare. You’re going about it the right way though. Good luck man! 🤙

Well like I said it wouldn’t install, the x4 outers nearly matched the factory on heights etc, can’t have my only vehicle down for parts, I bought two kits cuz it said two required but then I saw a guy install what looked like the exact same kit using one kit, Bracket had rust helping the crack get worse.

Gmguy3car Gotcha. I think raybucks.com sells brackets and I think atstruckspring.com.

Looks like Big cupped washer > big bushing > spacer (only fits one way on big bushing)> thru bracket < little bushing < smaller washer < nut

So is that the same order as I show in the video?

Damn! Good for you if you can do that!

I ran into the same issue. So I never torqued it to full spec. I thought my plastic cap broke because the poly bushings were harder. Sounds like this is an issue either way.

Nuria ABELLAN COSTA hi! So I’ve never heard of that part being called a silent block, but my research shows you are looking for a leaf spring bushing or a A arm bushing. Otherwise, here’s a link for a part labeled as silent block: www.uatparts.com/silent-block-bushing-for-ford-ranger-explorer-f-e-series-vans-d3tz5781a/ No problem! Thank you!🤙

The trick is to unbolt the axle pivot bolt which gives the axle more room to move. But you used the other method which is good too. I didn’t torque to any spec. As I was torquing down the nut, the white plastic spacer piece cracked and fell out. So I decided to just snug the nut on as much as possible until I felt like it was good. It’s been there ever since.

@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks! I just snugged it up until the threads started to protrude the nut. These thermoplastic bushings are much denser then rubber. Drives great.

@@charleetho No problem Charlee! That’s pretty much what I did. They are solid bushings for sure and they drive great!

Hi Jimmy, so the ball joint isn’t fully seating into place?

It’s an 97 obs

So my truck does that too. I think it’s the nature of the twin I beam suspension with coil springs. Although, your have coils? Most 97 F350s are leaf springs.

@@TheMinuteMasters Yes it does have coil springs I’m almost ready to pay whistling diesel to take this truck LOL JK

@@jacobpalma9709 Gotcha. What 2 inch lift did you use? Otherwise, I wouldn’t worry about it squating after reverse. If you haven’t replaced any of your bushings it is definitely worth doing. It does eliminate a lot of the slop associated with the twin I-beam suspension.

@@TheMinuteMasters It was some cheap eBay lift just the blocks back and front

Nice! Proper tools and penetrating oil is always the trick.🤙

You can drive without out the bushing. You ride will suck and you could risk the radius Arm pulling through the bracket.

ThaHandyman1212 Yes! You definitely want to change the radius arm bushings before an alignment. If the shocks are slow in rebounding, then replace them too. You can do the bounce test also. My rule of them is if the shocks are original or from the previous owner, replace them.

Shocks don't have any effect on the Alignment . Your bushings will affect the Alignment .

NoOneSpecific Nice! I never tried getting them in store. Good to know.🤙

Chris Abeita Yup! You got it! Getting it back together takes some finesse but is still easy.

Awesome!! So just put em right back were they came from, gotcha, i appreciate the snappy response man youre awesome

Really? I guess the energy suspension doesn’t feel like supplying them.

@@TheMinuteMasters they probly just want you to have to come back in a year or less for another set of bushings. I just did mine tonight.

@@SHOINOFF Yeah probably lol.

Damn!

Yes, I could’ve ground off the rivets and remove the bracket. But I want to do that repair like a dealership or local shop.

Inty But A clunking noise could be a couple of things but yes generally it’s the bushings being worn out. My clunk occurred when I went over rough roads.

Mine was the infamous slip yoke clunk. Installed a zerk fitting and greased it. Problem solved.

If you can physically move them with your hand, a jack, or prybar, then they need to be replaced. if they look intact, and the rubber isn’t cracked, then I’d say they’re still good as well.

I used the grease that came with the bushings. Are you suggesting silicone geese over lithium?

@@TheMinuteMasters I don't know about lithium, but silicone doesn't degrade rubber or polyurethane. I have used "silaramic" brake grease for ten years with no degradation on poly bushings.

@@corvairkid17 Yeah that’s what I’ve heard. I’ve never heard of that type of grease. I’ll have to look it up. Thanks for the tip!🤙

Hi Alex! You’ll want to put the nut on and snug it next to the bushing while you have everything off the ground. Then you can lower everything back to the ground and tighten it the rest of the way. I’ll have to check my Haynes manual, but I think the torque is like 140 foot pounds. I never talked mine down that much because I felt like it would crack the plastic bushing that is part of the assembly. So far so good but who knows. Maybe there is some unnecessary looseness to my assembly.

@@TheMinuteMasters hey thanks again....very much appreciated... 👍🏾

@@alexlewisiii6654 No problem Alex!🤙

@@TheMinuteMasters 👍🏾

🤣🤣🤣

@@victorreyes2135 mine was a 4wd lol i couldn't get both shafts to go back together the way they came apart so i disconnected the main shaft and all the needle bearings fell out. I crawled around forever finding them. Took a whole day to finish. Live and learn i guess.

Yeah I was going to try that but I didn’t have a big enough breaker bar. I believe you though. It was hard enough to get it off with an impact gun.

Damian DeLapp You know people say that but I didn’t feel any difference switching from rubber to polypropylene bushings. To me, these truck ride rough due to not having enough travel and good shocks.

@@TheMinuteMasters I have poly on the radius arms and on the axle pivots in my 79 F-350. I can't tell a whole lot of difference in how it rides but it does drive a lot better than when the bushings were getting worn out. Mine were not terrible when I changed them either.

@@DaveMcLain I completely agree. I feel like the whole “harsh ride” comments about poly bushings are the product of a Pro vs Con article that a key board mechanic wrote.

Edil Leon You know what, that’s not a bad idea. Although one commenter says that without the spacer, the bushing wears out faster.

Definitely much faster! I did it this way because it’s technically the “unbolt-it” / shop manual method.

Did you put the radius arm in first and then the I beam?

@@TheMinuteMasters Theyre all one assembly, but yes thats how i was trying it. With the radius arm through the hole I cant angle the I-beam into place. The passengers side I-Beam bracket has a bottom to it so you cant just slide it up from the bottom.

Dan James See if you can slide both in at the same time. Otherwise, I’d try cutting the bottom out of the axle pivot bracket.

The support that holds the radius arm can be removed by cutting the rivets off and installing new bolts in the same holes. It makes the repair faster and easier.

​@@TheMinuteMastersGot it, I wanted to cut or remove it, and leave a sound where the bushings go like it's on your truck would be much better, good if it can be done as well as yours I appreciate if you can help me I'm from Brazil I have ranger 97 v6 stx extended, or get this information if it can be done this changed and it will not harm, because if you see there are 2 platters with less than 1 meter. Thanks in advance for your attention.

@@rhonnymarques6560 You can definitely do that. I don’t know what you are referring too about 2 platters with less than 1 meter.

That’s a good method too!

Same here. Decades ago on my 1974 Western Auto used a HUGE HONKIN' pry bar to "wiggle" the radius arms out of the brackets, no need to take all those other components loose. OR BREAK THEM. OOPS.

kevin lockhart Really? I didn’t know Lincoln continental’s had twin I beam suspension with radius arms.

@@TheMinuteMasters it is front wheel drive and there is a steel rod with giant rubber bushings on both ends it goes from the strut rod support through the frame and bolts on as it exits similar to the one in your video except mine stays round like a rod

kevin lockhart Gotcha! That’s really interesting! Well I hope my video helps! Good luck!👍

If the radius arm is completely bolted on, you can just unbolt it. I would just make sure there’s no weird tension on it that would cause the radius arm to spring downward.

Thank you for your time and your videos.

@@leonbrazell6958 No problem man!🤙 Thanks, I appreciate it!

Estás en lo correcto.

Lol I would buy a couple of extensions. It’s worth having them.🤙

Juan Ramos That’s cool! I wish the F150s were like that. Yes, this model does.

If you are replacing the bushings with stock rubber bushings it’s between 80-100 ft lb of torque. With the polyurethane bushings is a lot less because they don’t compress as much. I tightened mine down until I felt like it would move and I didn’t crack the white plastic spacer piece.

@@TheMinuteMasters thank you so much. Really appreciate a reply back. This helps alot.

@@desarieamezcua4780 No problem!🤙 Thanks for watching!

Not usually but if your bushings were really bad it’s probably not a bad idea.

You know what, I’ll have to check. I think they are good but my truck has a lot of front end bounce.

MrBaeza1994 If you can pull the radius arm out of the bracket enough to replace the bushing, then you don’t have to remove the axle pivot bolt. I just think it’s easier removing the bolt to do the job.

The Minute Masters alrighty thanks again dude!🤙🏼🤙🏼

The Minute Masters just finished the job. I couldn’t pull the arm off on the drivers side because I didn’t have the right socket, but I had to force and pry the arm out and do the same to place it back in. It was pretty tough without removing that bolt and it also damaged the hell out of the old pivot arm bushing, would definitely be best to remove those bolts. Thank you for the video!!

MrBaeza1994 Nice! Well I’m glad you got it done man! 🤙 Good job! You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!

Definitely remove the pivot bolt. I just did a complete front end rebuild on my 95 f150 4×4. Even if you can get the radius arms through the bracket it doesn't allow enough threads to put the bushings on and bolt the radius arm down. I learned that the hard way

Dodge Ram 01 Good to know! Thanks man!🤙

I think I bought the kit from Amazon but you can buy them from just about any auto parts supplier. LMC truck sells them online.

Good question! Here’s a link👇 shop.broncograveyard.com/1992-1997-Ford-Bronco-F-Series-Truck-Radius-Arm-Bushings-Red-4wd/productinfo/33012/

I actually did that first a year before I made this video.🤙

@@TheMinuteMasters ok cool