You're very welcome Pete 😎👍

Thank you Arshad 😎👍

Thanks 👍 There's one thing that I did wrong - I shouldn't apply grease on water pump O-ring, it can eat that seal. Just a bit of coolant will do lubrication job.

Wow! Thank you 😊 A bit of advice - when you replace water pump, don't use grease on that seal, just moisture it with actual coolant. Some greases can eat seals and watet pump may leak then.

@@wawayltd Thanks Mate... I did it ! ... But maybe can be good if you can write this important note somewhere ! :-)

@@vitaviva5726 KZfaq will not allow edit video that uploaded already. I'll have to delete this one, edit, and upload again. This one has good position in search engines and I don't want to lose it. That note is not critical, lot of actual mechanics use grease. I can change it on my website, but it's in a bit messy condition, hope I'll find time soon to sort it out. I have some content for 5-6 new videos waiting for editing.. then some other things in life and business.. Eventually I hope I'll get it sorted.

Thank you :) Your comment touched my soul :) Nice to see people, that know what it takes. There will be more videos about this car and I'll do my best. Thank you!

Thanks 😊 You're right. Sometimes cost of tools can't justify DIY if it's one off job. However I think for this job the only special tools are crankshaft lock and camshaft pins that actually can be replaced with something like drill bits (if you do it, my advice don't go for 6mm, 5.5mm makes life easier). Rest of tools can be re-used for any other job. By the way, I think that engine top support is not that necessary, you can use jack with piece of wood as padding from the bottom.

Thanks Don 😊👍 My DPF is still alive, so no video yet, but I have video about EGR. By the way I have full description of what has been done on my website, so you don't have to remember whole video (link in description).

Thanks! 😊👍

You're very welcome 👍 Glad if it helps, thanks for watching 😊

Thank you :)

Thank you David :) Glad if it helps!

You're very welcome 👍

Wow, thank you very much 🤓👍

Once you get to it - it's easy. You're very welcome :)

You're very welcome Peter, glad if it helps :)

Thanks 😷👍

Thanks John, I 'll do my best 😊

Oh it's easy 😉 Have you never done it before?

You're very welcome Philip, glad if it helps 👍

You're welcome! You can also print out this instructions from the website.

Thank you :)

Thanks Nigel! Glad if it helps. P.S. I only pretend to be competent 😁

Muchas gracias! 🍺😷👍

You're welcome 😊

Thanks Andrew :)

Thanks :) There will be more

You're welcome :)

You're very welcome :) Check out description of this job on my website: wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=55

Thanks :) Glad it helps..

Thank you so much :) There will be more of these..

Thank You very much Pete! 😊

@@wawayltd Did you use new bolts for engine bracket (x3), mount (×4) and crankshaft pulley bolts (x4)? My manual says not to re-use fasteners. 👍🏻

I aware that manuals ask for new bolts. I think while making that video I did use new bolts, apart those little ones for vibration dumper on a crankshaft pulley. However on my next cambelt changes I didn't do it every time. By the way, that car is on 388.000 miles, so it had few cambelts by now. The way I look at renewing these bolts, yes it's good to have new fresh ones. Especially if you follow all torque values - this many Nm + thos many degrees. However just few new bolts can easily cost you 40-50 quid. I spoke to dealership and asked do they really replace bolts on every cambelt job? They said that they don't remove mount, but just bracket to avoid removing extra bolts. But if you change cambelt in any third party garage, you don't normally see extra 40 quid for bolts, if they would spend that - they definitely would put it on the bill. Anyway, long story short. If I go by feel with tightening re-used bolts, I think they can live long life. Think of wheel bolts - every tyre or brake change, every time I need to take my wheel off! And those are the same bolts since the car was born. I'm not saying that I'm cambelt guru and you should listen to me and not the manual, I'm just sharing personal practical experience. Therefore if your mount bolts break for some reason, please don't have a go at me 😁😉

@@wawayltd thanks for your answer! I think the mistake people make is treating a used bolt the same i.e. same torque and angle, so trying to set the same angle results in huge final torque applied and this risks weakening the bolt. I agree with you and doubt garages replace all the hardware due to cost. Tightening by 'feel' is the way and I'll use thread lock as well! A great video, once again. 👍🏻 p.s. my car is Touran 1.6TDI CAYC and first belt change at 35k but 7 yr old. The belt was drying out (brown dust everywhere) and one of the belt joints was starting to split, so 'just in time', you could say.

Thanks. Not sure about thread lock on those big bolts. I never tried it like that, hope they don't get seized.

Thanks 😊👍

You're very welcome :) There will be more videos about this car.

Thanks 👍 Glad if it helps

I buy Ruville and water pump for about same price in GSF. Depends how much DIY you are planning to do (also on mileage you do) - support kit is worth to have.. For jobs like clutch..

+Andoni Cadenato Velasco Even if the idea is the same, I believe - your engine is a bit different. I tried to google BKP engine to see what it looks like. Your cambelt doesn't spin high pressure pump - only water pump and camshaft (or 2 camshafts?). High pressure pump (tandem pump) is on the other side of the engine. Your mount is different also. But! the main idea is still the same.. Might check my other video about my previous car: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pa2nd7yJq7ave2g.html Engine in Audi sits along the car, not across..

+WheelsAndMotors You are right. The BKP has 2 camshafts and injector pump. It has not high pressure pump, it has tandem pump for vauum and for diesel presure. You other video fits better, mines is transversal and yours was longitudinal, but it can help me. Thanks

Thanks Sameul :)

Thanks Richard - glad if it helps :)

Thanks 😷👍

You're welcome :) There will be more.

Thanks 😊

Thank you :) There will be more.. eventually :0

Thank you :)

Grazie mille! :) Ho anche descrizione completa di questo lavoro con immagini, disponibili anche in formato stampabile. Controllare questo link: www.wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=55

+Jairo Viana Muito obrigado! :)

Thanks 😊. Yes, if crankshaft is locked and camshaft pin fits and the tensioner is correct - it's all good. Those bolts needed to be in the middle just to have room for adjustments, if it's all adjusted already - then it's OK, you are good to go 👍

You're very welcome :) If you're going to do it - print out instructions from my website: www.wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=55

You're very welcome 👍

There are some places that you can rent for very reasonable price, they also provide tools. In Bristol, we have Rump-It-Up. Here's their website: ramp-it-up.co.uk/ Maybe you can find something similar..

Got a problem. My sharan is not like the one you worked on. The fuel filter is to the right; the big air filter box is above the belt which is not hidden behind a cover? it is exposed And I wonder if that is right. The mounting looks different shape etc..I have a 2004 sharan 1.9tdi. Have you done of these cars. Thanks

I haven't done anything on 1.9tdi Sharan. You have previous model. But the principle is the same, get to the belt and replace it. I have one video on 1.9tdi Skoda Superb, 1st generation. But the engine in that car is positioned along the bonnet with cambelt on the front. However it gives idea of 1.9 tdi cambelt. But! 1.9tdi can be different as well :) Nightmare! I have 1.9 tdi Golf - common rail. Anyway here's the video about that Skoda: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gteVfMho1bW6gGw.html

Thank you :) I'll make some more videos about this car.. By the way, I also have description of this job on my website: www.wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=55

Thanks :) I was wondering why it's leaking - even top of the range pump.

That could have caused it. Coolant is chemically related to brake fluid. Therefore all hoses and seals are made from EPDM, which is also used for brake hoses. Unfortunally EPDM which will be destroyed by mineral oils.

Thank You! I know what I'm doing next cambelt change.

Thanks!

In order to remove bottom roller, you would need to de-tension tensioner, then to remove top roller, you would have to loosen camshaft pulleys in their elongated holes (with camshafts locked, crank shaft should be locked as well in that case)... So as you can see - with everything loose, and after you re-tension it again you definitely need to check and adjust timing, which I don't see to be a problem, once you've gone so far anyway. That's my view of it :)

@@wawayltd .... Thank- you for your help. i have been watching your video & have down loaded the pdf so should be good to go...

Thank you, Joachim :)

You're welcome :) I'll make more videos about this car..

Easy -peasy :)

Do you mean engine mount? Come on it's simple. 90 - quarter of the full turn. 45 - 1/8, 180 half a turn. If it's bad reachable, I have a system - have a look at your socket, pick a letter, number or any mark on it and decide where it has to be facing after you finish.

Thnk you! I tried :)

Many thanks for nice words about my content 😊 As far as I know high pressure pump doesn't need to be replaced on regular basis. That Sharan from the video is on 422.000 miles and has no issues with HPFP.

Thanks 👍

Thanks Stephen 😊👍

Totally agree. I think locking for cams is a bit too tight.

I think so. If your engine looks the same - then it;s the same cambelt.

Regarding cambelt, it should be more like in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hb2bh62F1LO7YYE.html And for manuals I look on ebay, I can recommend this seller, get hold of him, he's very helpful: www.ebay.co.uk/usr/partsworkshop

Thank you :) Yes. It never happened to me, but I have seen bent valves and damaged pistons after broken cambelt in in one garage on display .

No. There's not so much of air gets into fuel system in this job. When you start the car you won't even notice anything. But keep the fuel inside filter though 😏

Thank you :)

Thank you :)

Thanks 😊 Cambelt change is about all I know - no good for teaching in automotive schools. 😁

I don't think it is affected by cambelt. Looks like you have bad connection to steering wheel. Probably clock spring.

it's the clock spring I had to change it on mine Tiguan, is not that difficult only taking the steering wheel apart may give you some work.

I bought my cambelt kit from GSF Car Parts. If you sign up for email vouchers, they send 40-43% discount codes on weekends. Don't remember brand, but in my opinion it was good one, had lots of stuff, such as replacement bolts, studs - everything. Kit did not include water pump, so I bought it separately. Tool set was bought on eBay - does the job.

Hi sir if you contact with German Swedish parts be better than Ebay ,

Most common brand is Gates, I buy Ruville from my local supplier. I didn't change accessory belt for a while - just check condition, it's not expensive to change too. What do you mean by regulator?

Thanks for the answers, I meant the spring tensioner of the belt of accessories. As a mark of timing belt, I was advised the contitech or skf used by Volkswagen. what do you think ?

I buy Ruville cambelt kit from GSF. As for water pump - just go for whatever is best on market, because they have reputation of leaking. Some mechanics even apply a bit of sealant stuff , there are different opinions regarding that. I've done it in my cambelt video on a Passat.

As for cambelt kit - I'm not saying that Ruville is the best possible option ever. It's just one of the good brands that is easy to buy for me.

Didn't have to deal with car like yours yet. I suppose getting to the belt should be similar. But 1.9 engine could be slightly different. If it's 2007 - it's probably PD engine. I just uploaded 1.9 tdi PD engine video on different car : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gteVfMho1bW6gGw.html

Sorry, took me while to reply. In your case I wouldn't worry about it. Try to see it when engine is hot or when it's running - it's all over the place :) Just make sure nut on the tensioner is tight to correct torque, also other nuts and bolts. If your timing is correct - it's all good.

@@wawayltd Well, problem is that there is a "whining" sound when the motor is running, heard on higher RPMs. It was not there before the TB job. The mechanic says that he also "hears something". Anyway. This evening I will leave the car at the workshop overnight for the engine to cool down, tomorrowm morning we will remove the coolant tank, fuel filter and the DPF pressure sensor bracket, remove bottom plastics, turn the cold engine to TDC and check where the tensioner actually is. While we are there, in case it's off, it will take us only to remove the serpentine belt and the crank vibration damper/puller to lock the engine and re-tention the belt.... I will report back!

So as promised, some update. At the moment of the service/inspection I talked about in the above post, the new timing belt components have exaclty 200 km on them. We removed serpentine belt, popped the TB cover, rotated cold engine to TDC. The tensioner was a bit on the lose (left) side, in fact just the beginning of the "slot". During engine turnover (as well as engine running), the tensioner was stable and never went to the high side. We decided to tighten the tensioner just a little bit, so (without any locking tools), we loosened the nut, turned the tensioner to the right side a bit and retightened. The whining sound is still there - we tried to listen to it but it seems that the belt itself is making that sound. Worth mentioning that the belt is the "reinforced" one - with PTFE (Teflon) coating on the inside of it. (Google for PTFE Teflon coated timing belt). These are known to be "more noisy" but I didn't have a clue that kind of noise they are supposed to make :) So, at this point I will keep motoring on. Thanks for all the tips and advice given

@@hid3nax Never heard of teflon cambelts.. Although I also never went into details of how they are made. Perhaps that whining noise is from your mega-armoured belt :) I like your loving attitude to your car. I have the same - can't sleep if something's not right..

@@wawayltd Please see this: dayco.com.au/page.aspx?A=8214 Pay attention to the inner side (on the picture) having white coating and you will understand what I am talking about. Mine is the same, also made by Dayco. (I specifically was looking for reinforced belt when I was seeking for good quality TB kit). As for the whine, you can read opinions from people who have used them. Most people say they notice whine, others say they don't but I suppose they don't pay enough attention. I saw posts where people replaced back all the rollers but left the belt itself in place and it still whined. Some threads: forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=3334412&postcount=9 forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=319105 etc... And yes, I really have attitude to my car - everything is in perfect condition, both visually and from the technical side. Knock on wood. The car is 8 years old from the date of manufacture.

Sure, I can clarify - it doesn't really matter that much. I find that it's easier to pin camshaft and hpfp with bolts not loose .. However if you loosen those bolts and then insert pins, you won't have to put pressure on pins while loosening bolts. Yeah - loosen bolts first 👍

Yeah, almost every manual says to renew bolts. I might get some new ones for my next cambelt change.

If you are talking about bleeding coolant, then garages would have the machine that they put on to expansion tank to create the pressure, then open bleeding points to let the air out. However, normally it would be enough to rev the engine up and put heating on full (both sides).

Yes. My engine is also CFFB. As far as I know B7 classes as a facelift of B6, so for how to get to the cambelt - I have another video about Passat B6: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hcyWrKeTyJnOl3U.html

I looked for info about this code and it looks like it applies to electrically operated pumps. Pump in our car is not electric, it's driven by cambelt. So what you need to find out first - what causing this error. Maybe some sensor, or overheating, or some heater fault. Unfortunately I don't know :(

Yes, something about that. My owners manual is in miles (I live in UK), and it says 140.000 miles. I find it strange, because dealership told me about my previous car Audi A6 - 60.000 miles (100.000km). I checked my cambelt after doing 80.000 miles from this video and it was in great condition, so I decided to postpone it till next service. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't want to run it for all 140.000 miles (210.000km), so I'll do it in 2 weeks on 90.000 miles after last change. You see, I'm a taxi driver and I depend to much on this car, so I want to be safe. Years don't apply to me, because in 5 years I do 300.000 miles or half a million km :)

Yea i think its not better to wait 140000miles bit too much plus driving in a capital city waers the parts more i guess. I am on 110000km but 6 years guess i ll do it, i saw somewhere in the internet they say 140miles or 10years i think thats too long to risk your car engine. Plus i am getting a sound from the engine bay when the car is running like a small friction or rubbing sound.

This engine is CFFB 2.0tdi, I have done CAYC 1.6tdi and cambelt set was exactly the same. I'm not going to say 100% for your Passat, just in case - I will say highly likely it's going to be the same.

WheelsAndMotors thank you much appreciated

Did it yesterday, some small differences with my passat, an additional intermediate fuel pump, different camshaft markings but generally the same and video helped a lot thanks. A great feeling when it starts and runs good 👌

Well done Ben! 👍 Additional fuel pump?

WheelsAndMotors sorry just seen this. Yes the lifting pump from the tank, the main cam driven Fuel pump and an intermediate small pump up behind the fuel filter?

Thanks Laimonas :)

Yes. It's right. If you are getting there you might as well replace it :) Also I must say, it depends on locking pins - some of them don't fit if hole matches, but there is still slight deviation. Thanks to mobile phone cameras you can see what's going on. My personal opinion - if the hole is in the middle - don't worry about the pin, so many times I replaced cambelt and pin didn't fit before change. Still need to change cambelt if it's knackered.

WheelsAndMotors just worried that might end up trying to adjust 100 times and wont get anywhere. Torsion value says if everything ok ? Needs to be close to 0 ?

You don't need to go do 100 times to get it right. As long as you do it correctly and with the belt tension clockwise, as it should be with natural engine rotation. Still can be few times, but not too much - don't worry. I know that previous generation of TDI's - PD engines could be quite sensitive to cambelt change, so to do it properly they used to connect VAG-COM and set torsion value for fuel injection timing, because each injector also worked as a pump. As far as I know, with this one it's easier. High pressure pump is timed and spinning by cambelt, and as it says in video and manual - you don't need to be able to fit pin in the pump, it can be away within 5 mm. Don't worry Vilius, once you start doing it, you'll have a feeling and understanding that it's all easy :)

Thanks. I will give it a go

+Rumen Hristov Thank you, too - subscribed to one of the channels you are subscribed :)

Goood. Which one?

Derek Banas. Good tutorials for programming. Easy to digest. I'm alright with PHP, but never new how to start on JavaScript...

haha. I see. Ya he has some good tutorials. I am a graduate student in Computer Science at the university of Calgary, but have a massive experience working on VW/Audi/Porsche since my high school. So I kept that as a side thing.

+Rumen Hristov I am self-taught :) Never have time for my website in recent time and not catching up with new ways of coding. These days it has to be mobile-friendly, but really mobile friendly - there are only forms. It is possible to use it from mobile, so I would call it "sort of mobile friendly" :)) Where did you get experience with VAG? Did you study that as well?

They are quite tight fit. Sometimes I use 5.5mm drill bit instead, if it fits I'm satisfied. Just mind your fingers - wrap it with solitape.

Some people say 60.000 miles. Actual manual says 140.000 miles. Personally I would do it somewhere between 80.000 miles and 100.000.

Emircan Demir If you are talking about ratchets, I don't have 3/8. I have 1/4 for smaller stuff and 1/2 where I could do with a bit more strength.

That's it :) You got it. Take idea from both videos 1.9tdi Skoda and this one, shouldn't be a rocket science. Let us know how you getting on!

Спасибо :)

Andrei Nitu If it looks the same, then it should be the same. I'll check when I'll get the chance.

thanks alot! keep up the good work!

Just had a look in computer - yes, it's the same

thanks man, you are the best!

That's reflection of my GoPro camera 😁

You have to leave those bolts in the middle, when you fit the belt, to be able to adjust camshaft with the crankshaft, so you have some space either side. Adjusting timing is not about those bolts being in the middle, but to be able to lock crankshaft and camshaft at the same time with right tension, and those bolts in the middle of their elongated holes can move for adjustments. High pressure pump doesn't have to be aligned so precise, otherwise it will take you ages, even aligning camshaft takes some time. Manual says - as long as high pressure pump is within 5mm with locking point it's not a problem.

Ok. Will you make a video about changing the timing belt on MK4 Golf TDI? It's 1.9 TDI 90km ALH ?

I think that the Golf I have in my garage now has this (or very similar) engine. But, currently I don't have any time... Maybe at some point in the future.

You're welcome 👍