alright mate we can do that for you. I'll throw one up for you this week.

hell yeah, how do you finish today in your first race back for 2021??

Glad you liked it!

Hey Romain, thanks so much, you racing this weekend?

@@PowerRepublic No, not yet. Hopefully next few weeks. Keep going guys, you’re awesome 👌

@@romaintruchet6815 👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻

Hey Nuno. Thanks for writing in. Yeah great idea, also to don’t forget to lube the clutch bearing.

Hey mate. It’s a fine adjustment for when the PV opens. It’s almost impossible to feel the difference for most drivers so we generally set them flush with the black housing. Don’t forget to lube the clutch bearing, I totally forgot to shoot that scene and it was even on the video plan. Grrrr

Hey Tang, thanks heaps for tuning in from Thailand. for cleaning the carb, use carb cleaner. For cleaning the chain, sprocket and chain guard, use degreaser. For cleaning the rest of the kart, use a strong soap or WD-40. and spray wax or car polish to finish on the chassis paint and chrome. hope that helps

well on TK they really only have the genuine set. otherwise I have seen someone use KG plastics on a Tony Kart cause they wanted black plastics

Welcome aboard! thanks heaps for tuning in . we use ATF DEX3. noice and simple, cheap and reliable

great idea, anything in particular you are wanting to know?

@@PowerRepublic I'd be interested in carb and clutch maintenance (especially the clutch pads), and the full process of taking the carby from the engine and what you pay attention to while doing so, inspecting the reed box, draining the carby if the kart isn't going to race for a couple months to avoid stuck jets, piston head inspection in the X30, and then maybe some videos on general stuff like changing the matting on the exhaust, inspecting the flex (what to look for), would be awesome. Thank you mate, you are the man!!

Hey Hey, thanks heaps for watching. please share the videos as a reciprocal thanks and good vibes!! I use 2 stroke oil for the blade and the stud. any sand paper about 400 grit would be noice.

Hey Chris, yeah good idea to get them done before the race season. Is there many PRD engines in the UK?

@@PowerRepublic they are rare here too, its rotax and x30 mostly. I couldnt even find reeds for the prd, and had to use x30 reeds which i trimmed a mil off.

Not much at all really. I’m a bit of a die hard with the Denso because we used them for so many years.

100cc's and you can use ATF or the Rotax Gearbox oil, either is fine

not essential if you don't have one. you could buy air in a little bottle just for your carbies. or a cheap small compressor.

best way is to take it medium pace on your outlap. unless the ambient temp is below 15 degrees. best way is to save up and get a datalogger. otherwise there are cheap temp display only by RR you can buy that will show the temp www.mxstore.com.au/p/Trail-Tech-TTO-19mm-Digital-Inline-Water-Temperatu/742-EH1?gclid=Cj0KCQjws4aKBhDPARIsAIWH0JVb3I5l9aIiRfFd43HaL0q3tYym-tz_K6SOdjGKFjJrDmIEUnWV41YaArXSEALw_wcB www.righettiridolfi.com/en/8108-water-temperature-gauge

Sup Bruh, I would do it maybe twice, once before your first race and one at the half way point. then at the end of the season get yo self the top end rebuild. Where do you race your Rotax?

@@PowerRepublic Aussie repping TK and Rotax in NZ bro haha

@@motorsportfan1246 you giving the Kiwis a hard time over there?

@@PowerRepublic doin my best

Hey Chris, there is a small clip to push in before you pull it off the sensor. if you are still having problems, firstly remove the exhaust system and then remove the 2 10mm head bolts that hold it into the engine. hope that helps

@@PowerRepublic Thanks for the help!

nah, you need ATF or light gear oil

AFT

I like the Denso IW27's the best. maybe just an old habit

I have some KZ vids up on YT already, have you checked them out already?

Yeah the engine is fundamentally the same, bar the electronics and what not. What do you need help with? I have covered most of the basic maintenance of this engine on our channel. if you have anything else you can't find please let me know and I can make it for you

@@PowerRepublic Thanks for the link I did think they were basically the same wasn't 100% sure and yes have been watching your channel and feeds appreciate the help

@@rayhemsley2114 👍

Hey Blitz, I was using 240 but that is not critical.

you clean it with some brake cleaner if you like, and it is steel and doesn't have any traditional friction materials on it, so it doesn't develop much dust

Hi, from what I’ve gathered a rotax should always have its water temp between 45 and 60 degrees. Start pushing from 40 degrees and up, slow down and return to the pits if it goes over 65 degrees

lift the flap at 56 ish if ur not getting up to 50 then put a bit of tape on it,

Thanks for your input guys,we sorted temperature with tape. Now running around 50-53 degrees.

Auto Trans Fluid or Rotax XPS gearbox oil

@@PowerRepublic Ok. I guess the one in this video is an ATF, right?

@@mattiasahlstrom1061 yeah boi

@@PowerRepublic Thnx. Keep up the good work with your videos!🤘

only at 13800 it crackles? they do have a rev limiter that normally kicks in around 14500 on a straight that is long enough or downhill.

@@PowerRepublic What can I check? Not so much more what to think ..... New spark plug, ok wiring, clean and smooth rave valve. Could it be the pick up?

@@paolobinato3862 yeah you could start with a spacer gasket on the crank pick up. maybe even go leaner to see if it fixes/amplifies the problem, then re adjust

@@PowerRepublic Ok thursday I'm going to the track and then I'll let you know if I've solved something. thank you

Hello first of all thanks for your advice I tried to add the gasket but I no longer had a burst in the spark plug. So I tried to replace the pick up and the engine is completely changed more performing, without strange bursts !!!! Thanks so much!!!

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