Yeah I know, a friend of mine Kenny B showed me years ago. So a huge shout out to Kenny from the House of Power

Glad it was helpful!

Hi Craig, thanks for the positive vibes!!

@@PowerRepublic help me out pleasw

I appreciate that!

Perfect. Thanks heaps for tuning in and sharing the videos

Thanks mate

@@PowerRepublic my power valve keep sticking its in a rs125 engine works fine out cylinder but soon asi fitted it it sticks

@@trianedtog0417 maybe the housing is warped or the PV blades orientation to the PV housing is out enough to make it bind up when you tighten the housing down?

@@PowerRepublic bought new blade everything my rave2 is for rs125 rotax122 same engine nearly just setting up my carb my cylinder is ported my jets are slow 36idle main jet 160 premix 50to1 castrol A747 and morul 720 to make it 32 to 1 can you email me at apriliarider0@gmail.com for some set up we just got 40 bhp out a rotax max with converted italkit 140 jollymoto115 exhaust for engine check pjme website out for performance parts

@@PowerRepublic this channel got an Instagram account please post link cause this channel should be bigger than this best on here I got Instagram page with just rotax parts and videos on it I can get your channel going big watch you need to get rotax122 engine and do rebuilds these young lads pay thousands for rebuilds and oil carb products were you from my friends

Hi Tom, I use synthetic oils only in Rotax engines to help with the engines A/F ratio tuning. For assembly of engine parts, I use Rock Oil Castor Kart 100 which is the oil I use to run in the engines on the engine dyno as well. But I don't think it would matter if you used any type of 2 stroke oil for assembly.

Power Republic legend - thanks for clarifying!

@@PowerRepublic alright derek I have rotax 122 in my aprilia rs 125 fitted with new old rave2 power valve and its jammed when fitted I have filled blade down and it still sticks but when taken out it works fine any ideas definitely the blade please help Paul uk

@@trianedtog0417 maybe check that it moves freely with the hoses disconnected? then if its jamming the plumbing is back to front on the PV Rave valve

@@PowerRepublic alright Derek me again I take my power valve out and it works fine I have just bought new blade oring gasket and blade and its sick in cylinder can you give me any advice for the last time I have bought new springs and now I am going to remove the casting marks off the blade

hey gas, the long side is the top and the short side is the bottom

Hey BES, yeah it does happen. but maybe change the exhaust springs and gasket on the exhaust socket to stop the leaks there. if the engine smokes a lot then maybe you have to much oil or the AF ration is too rich? how much oil do you put in the fuel?

@@PowerRepublic Hi mate, thanks for replying. I'll do that to stop the leaks and let you know. The ratio I do is with a measuring cup that shows 32 I believe is milliliters per gallon of gas. I'll test it with a little bit of less racing oil. Thank you. - Carlos

@@businessexpansionstrategie4015 anytime bro 👍

Thanks again!

Hi Chris, set them at 73.5 as recommended and send it !!!! IMO

Hey Michael. They don’t really make more power per se. And they only effect the engine performance below 7500rpm +\- 1000rpm. Is you PV bellows new? If so set the knob about half way open. If they are old, most likely they are lazy so screw the knob all the way into zero. Hope that helps

@@PowerRepublic Thanks!

yeah the senior max has the power valve and so does the DD2

the EVO power valve is normally solid. have you checked your barrel height ? maybe if it could be lowered to the lowest squish you could get some more bottom end power out of your engine

obrigado

you can if they need, but in the rotax rules if you are racing you had better leave it with al the flashings on it.

Darrin Stuckwisch you can. I move to flush position with the black housing and leave it. It’s only really subtle adjustment of the spring pressure. The ‘Rave’ Valve of the new EVO Rotax system is amazingly good and the power valve control. Set the red disc flush and just ‘sent it’ 👊🏿

I was also wondering, can I updated my non evo to the evo setup, but I still have the old style exhaust socket I was wondering if I go to the new donut style will I be able to use my non evo pipe? Or will or not fit? Also is there any power gain with the evo exhaust pipe? Btw your videos have gave me so much help as this was my first year with a rotax

Darrin Stuckwisch thanks for the positive vibes. I would buy the EVO exhaust for sure. All the EVO parts are an improvement if you can afford them. The old style red dial on the PV did work somewhat, however there was other variables like throttle position, gearing and AF ratio that effected the operation of the PV on slow corners.

Power Republic I have the evo powervalve setup with the electronics and carb. I just still have the old pipe setup. Though

@@darrinstuckwisch4903 get the new pipe for sure. the non EVO pipe was a weak link in the sense that it cracks. EVO pipe is a no brainer for me.

yeah Col, I do set them flat. use a set of expanding circlip pliers

@@PowerRepublic thanks Des, great tip

@@PowerRepublic stupid question from a rookie. What exactly does the red adjuster do? Determine at what rpm it opens.?

won't matter on the new EVO PV. only need the hole for the original PV so the exhaust gas/pressure could fill the bellows

Hey Sam, they can rattle around with out any problems, other times I have seen them come loose. you could try a touch of loctite. otherwise get a new stud and try that. sometime too the piston can get damaged from over tightening. if that is the case then you could replace that too.

electrical. check earth, double check earth. then try the start buttons/switches. then coil. last thing is probably the crank angle sensor

Hey Steve. Thanks for tuning in. I pull it out and measure it after

@@PowerRepublic Thanks for replying. You mean take the whole power valve off and measure it after? I can't think of any other way to measure the 81.6mm without taking it all off, then you'd have to aline, would I be better off just building the valve off the engine? Hope this make sense

@@stephenkhan80 yeah that makes sense. that's is probably a better idea anyways. go for it an let me know how it goes

@@PowerRepublic Thanks buddy

@@PowerRepublic Sorry 1 more thing (on this🤣). Mine has a gasket, did you not put one on for video purposes? Or will a bit of assembly lube be OK? Thank you.

yeah mate, same dimensions but I think they have changed colour and material from green to red.

more or less, same fundamentals

Sneaky behind the shot camera work busted. you have an eagle eye @lizseeliger and glad you are paying attention

EVO power valve my friend?

Power Republic No, pre evo. The bellow was advertised for the evo but the seller said it would work for either one

@@GamerBoyzProduction yeah the bellows are universal. my guess is the orientation of the blade to the housing is off a little and the blade is getting stuck in the slot of the barrel.

Power Republic Huh I guess I’ll check my alignment thank you for the help I’ll keep you updated!

no, not without the cylinder upgrade

@@PowerRepublic is there any guides online of how to do this upgrade? I can't find much, it's it worth it?

@@MrPilot_moon www.rotax.com.au/junior-max.html

@@MrPilot_moon probably easier to sell your old one and buy a new Snr Max

@@PowerRepublic thanks 😁 I thought that..