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April, when running power to my shop build, My son had a piece of rag that he tied to some nylon string. He then went in to garage where the conduit was going to the main panel turned on the shop vac and it sucked that rag & string thru in about 2 seconds and he tied and taped the wire and pulled it back to the shop ,the whole thing took just a couple mins.

It is good practice to lay a yellow caution tape in the trench after some backfill has been added. When someone is digging in the area of the underground cable, they will encounter the caution tape before they get too close to the cable.

I’m sure others may have said the same, but it’s not allowed to run NM cable (some call it Romex, which is a trade name) in conduit that goes outdoors. If you are using cable that’s rated for direct burial, you should be okay (but good to check with inspector). So the wire from the panel to the junction box should be non-NM and something like THHN wires, but not standard NM). I’m a master electrician and ICC licensed electrical inspector.

ALWAYS READ THE COMMENTS. THE BRILLIANCE OF A COMMENTER IS NEVER OVERSTATED!

The hard part is digging the trench for the wire. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe. Be careful the electrons can bite.🙂🙂

Hey April I am a beginner woodworker from New Zealand and I have watched I think all of your videos. I cant thank you enough for all your talant and know how. You explain everything so beginners like me can do anything when it comes to woodworking. I have subcribed to your channel and look forward to seeing alot more videos once again thank you.

This video was at just the right time as I am getting ready to feed electricity from my old shed to the new garage that is right next to the shed. Watching you do this is the exact same process that I will need. Thank you.

April I used to work for a company that made a lubricant to pull electrical wires (romex). The lubricants are just glycerin so one might be able to save some money and just use glycerin. As always great video, very informative.

1:45 can also buy fittings to allow for different bends, if don’t wanna flex the conduit like this (sweep 90s, [also called elbows], street, bell ends, saddle bends, etc); and if don’t want to buy the different fittings (or can’t find), you can heat up and bend the conduit yourself (pvc only, as emt not gonna be heated and bend, gotta use a bender; and ABS doesn’t heat well and wouldn’t even try it, imo)…..just a tip for ppl if feel weird about flexing the conduit how April did.

I watched this video 3 times. You make this appear simple. I can't even find the same PVC pieces at Lowes or Home Depot. Love that ( 5:02 ) smile while dealing with not-so-easy cable. Thank you for the video....

Just a thought: Chase the wires through the individual conduit pieces and parts before gluing the conduit. Its easier than chasing around the fixed bends, elbows and boxes.

Good work! But I'll add that 20 years ago I didn't anticipate my similar project would be more permanent than I anticipated at the time. (My purpose then was to get power to a deicer at a livestock water tank.) During this period, the PVC outlet's year-over-year exposure to the sun caused it to degrade and become chalky, brittle and inflexible. A little post movement during an unusually wet year with a super freeze cracked the riser pipe, and the hinged cover on the outlet box fell apart. If I had a do-over, I'd have gone with metal over PVC despite the added work.

There is flexible conduit, outdoor rated. I used that to run AC, along with outdoor-rated speaker wire, out to my shed. The great benefits: a) flexibility allows you to maneuver around large underground obstacles; b) zero underground junctions, so no leakage or seepage of water into your conduit. It’s been a godsend for Xmas lighting, as well as for outdoor stereo audio. I can run a powered subwoofer. The garden sounds amazing

Your first run of Romex to the GFCI is a code no-no, even inside of PVC conduit. NM cable (ROMEX) is not permitted in damp or wet locations [NEC 334.12B(4)] and the inside of raceways (including PVC conduit) located outdoors is considered a wet location per NEC 300.9. Your first run should be UF cable or individual THWN conductors. If the latter, the individual conductors should be placed in conduit all the way to the source panel.

I ran direct burial wire and stayed away from PVC. A little extra work but worth it. You are truly great.👍♥️

Good morning, April! Thanks for another great video. This project is actually penciled in on my "GET IT DONE" list for the warmer weather. Have a great week! God bless.

Always have fun watching and seeing what you do next April. Your vids are always fun, filled with different info; and can tell you enjoy doing each project 👍🏻 Also do like the voiceover and are always TALKING TO US, every step of the way, thx. Cheers✌🏻

Just remember you could have just back fed the underground cable so you only had to pull 5 feet or so rather than feeding all the cable through the box...

Nice job! It is important to understand voltage and amperage needs to be considered when determining depth of wire. A residential 20 amp circuit using 12/2 copper underground rated cable can be installed at a 12” depth as long as it is protected with GFCI device. Electrical codes can be more stringent depending on where you live so please consult an electrician or electrical inspector in your area. Also it is important to note that schedule 80 pvc should be used in this application.

This is a great idea and instruction set. I have a detached building that I need to run power to and will use your method! Thanks so much for your intuitive videos! Have a great day April!

Nice easy description. Don’t forget to water/air/bug seal the holes once finished.

I saw others mention the romex issue so check those comments out. I would mention that any electrical pvc pipe exposed needs to be schedule 80 and not your typical schedule 40. I am impressed with your knowledge of the burial depths, not many know that.

Hey April, Great video. The nice thing about PVC is if you run into this later on with a project again, you could use a heat gun and apply a slight offset off the metal building over the concrete lip into the ground (1:43). By just applying a few minutes of heat along the pipe, you can shape it without any fittings. I used to do this when I was an apprentice electrician years ago, and it would work great on jobs.

Nice, you can use heat gun to form the plastic conduit to fit flush against the wall

conduit the full run is a good idea as well and not much more expense and also don't forget to silicone seal those LB boxes at the building to prevent water penetration!

Another quick project Wonderfully explained. This is time well spent on a Sunday. Thank you April, See you again Soon. Have a Blessed Week.

Thanks for this video, April. I'm thinking about a project in our yard, and this gave me some great things to think about in my planning.

Not including an advisory about the length of the wire run and amperage draw dictating the gauge of the wire needed can set a dangerous situation. As a clerk in the electrical department of a large DIY store, I had many customers who wanted to run 14 or 12 gauge wire in excess of 100' to run shop equipment in an stand alone workshop. I calculated on one case that the fellow would need 4 gauge for what he was proposing. He accused me of trying to make more money off him. I told him that I was paid by the hour and I made the same if he bought the right wire, the wrong wire or no wire at all. Please consider adding such advice.

Just to clarify, the GFCI should be BEFORE the underground cable run, not just anywhere on the circuit. So at the panel (gfc breaker) or an intermediate GFCI outlet as you did.

Just did a similar project running 50 amp service from from "main" panel to my shop (who builds an 1,100 sq ft shop with only two 15 amp circuits?). I had to chase it across the entire attic in the house so I used 6 AWG Romex to the edge of the house with no conduit, then put a junction box to connect to 3/4 inch flexible conduit. The conduit came down the wall outside, buried two feet under ground for a 13 foot run across to the shop then up to an LB and into the shop, all one continuous 38' bit of conduit and using 6AWG THHN. The shop is 32x32 concrete block. The conduit continues inside for the very short run to the sub panel (about 18"). I could have gotten away with an 18" burial, or I could have used UF to simplify things a bit, but I'm glad I went the way I did. I had a good friend who is a licensed electrician help me with the attic work since I'm too old and inflexible for that rather cramped space. It was really just securing the Romex and splicing the Romex to the THHN in the junction box. He knocked it out in under an hour. Thankfully it was a reasonable cool Florida day in March with heavy cloud cover, so the attic wasn't dangerously hot, which is the default setting for Florida. I did the trenching myself, and learned all about the surprisingly lax codes for PVC thickness and burial depth for irrigation in Florida. Don't ask me how I know. Let's just say that if you made a pipe out of Playdoh, it would be sturdier.

Every electrical video I’ve ever watched will state “if your not comfortable doing this work, call in an electrician”, which is sound advice. However, anyone can do the manual labor (digging trenches, running the wire, backfilling) prior to calling in the electrician, thus saving a ton of money. Had a project similar and ran a line 75’ from a house panel to a garage. Found out the code requirements, did the labor and then call the electrician. He was happy, because I had set up everything for him and all he had to do was set the wires in proper order. Saved 15 hundred on the project by doing some of the work myself.

Always love watching and listening to your install April!

Your awesome April I wish I had half the talent you have! Thank you for all you do!

A fish tape also helps get wire through conduit. 👍

You are very brave to show an electrical project on KZfaq.

What a great vid, thank you! Also like the helpful and respectful comments. Thanks everyone!

The conduit coming out of the ground should have an expansion joint. You don't need to use UF cable, you can use any cable that has an insulation rated for wet applications. THNW is a lot easier to pull. UF can be used for direct burial. The 12' burial is for 125V max 20 A max.

Wow! You just solved an issue for me, I was just looking at it wrong, Thanks!

It seems to me that so many content creators avoid showing electrical installations on the videos. However, April you are brave enough to make electrical videos time and time again. Congrats to your “Can Do Spirit “!!! 😃👏

Thanks for sharing the depths needed!

Interesting code requirements. By comparison, in Australia we are required to bury the wire in conduit the whole way at 600mm (2ft), with warning tape just above the conduit. It can be shallower (not sure how much) if there is mechanical protection like concrete.

the hard part is digging the trench - that is the part I thought you found an "easy" way to do :)

April,yer a Sweetie! You can bury a wire easily without digging a trench in yer backyard. Step a shovel into the ground and rock it back and forth to make a "V" groove. Lay the outdoor wire in it. And moosh it closed.

I feel like it’s easier to just run the pvc underground all the way and pull in stranded wire after. I hate fighting solid wire.

Exactly how I ran power to my back-yard cabin. Perfect!

Great work April. I was running a direct burial line out to my barn, I flunked my inspection because I crossed a driveway at 16" depth, not 18". Geeezz.

Thanks for sharing April, worked out good and SAFE too. Fred.

You're pretty awesome 😎. Made that look simple. I'm going to have to do this myself this summer, thanks for the tips!

PM screwdriver...cool. I bought a couple of sets from Walmart back in the mid 90's. Made in USA. Never seen anyone else use them. Still have them.

Great explanations, and another great video! Well done, April!

Love your work, ma'am, an good to see a fellow Texan !

Great video. I didn't realize how many different code's there could be. Very informative.

The Romex you used from the panel to the outside receptacle is a violation. Conduit outside is a wet location. You should have used UF.

In Australia we need to be 600mm minimum deep with warning tape 100mm above the conduit. Also pull your cable through first then make you joins. It makes for a much easier and quicker job without the struggle. Anyway different regulations for different states and countries. Good to see your having a go and not scared to get your hands dirty 😊well done and look forward to seeing your next job 👍👍

Very beautiful work. I also love carpentry

great video thanks for sharing the tips with the pvc conduit have a great week

For your offsets near building, instead of your foot, a happier blow dryer or heat gun on low slowly over conduit will mold conduit .

Thank you for your time making this video

Code for how deep to run your conductor is 24 inches without protection. If the run is under a sidewalk, driveway, etc you may have it 12 inches under such protection. Recheck the NEC. I did when I ran power to my shed a year a year ago. It had not changed since I was in a NEC class back in the 90's.

Nicely done April! 😃👍🏻👊🏻

I had to do something very similar when I installed wiring to my well house during the construction of my home. I'm not an electrician, and this wasn't exactly "easy", it's just the way it has to be done! You don't want to do in-ground electrical work the wrong way though!

You didn't put a service loop on the cable in the LB box. Where you used your foot to bend the conduit to the wall, heating the pipe with a torch would allow for you to bend the pipe to fit the contour of the wall. Also, the conduit where you fitted the male connnector, you can ream the inner edge to a smooth and tapered edge that's no longer sharp.

Absolutely cool project April ❤❤❤!!!!

Another thing: if you do put in a gfci or outlet outside, be sure it is a weather proof

Nice video again 👍 Consider adding also Ethernet cable whenever you run cables between or in buildings, it comes in sooooo handy if you need to expand your Wi-Fi on your property … yes, Wi-Fi mesh works, but there are many draw-backs, so good ol‘ wire is a good thing to put in. If you can use cat7, from my experience it’s not much more expensive than cat6(a), but shields against all kinds of interferences ;) Cheers 🥂

Nice job. The only thing I saw that was not correct is you ran standard NM-b cable from the inside to the box that will have the GFCI. NM cable is not rated for wet locations and any conduit installed outside is considered a wet location due to condensation. To get around this you can run the cable directly into the back of the box that will have the GFCI.

Very nice great information! Always helpful!!

all the best april New ideas thank you

I'm truly a big fan and follow everything you do

great job!! the trench is laborious!!

Great job on the wiring. (I see a couple of people are not sure you're up to spec for U.S.) but the physical installation you did was still well done and some good tips aswell for DIYers! (U.S. electrics is way different to U.K. anyway, as our electrical standards are unbelievably over-engineered for safety and update every year!) But appreciate all your hard work in ALL your videos.. always a top job and easy to follow your projects! Cheers from London 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🇬🇧

Thanks for posting, and thumbs up. Gives me a few ideas.

just ran 10/2 UF to my BBQ shed in conduit into a sub panel, with 2 8 ft grounding rods

in a pinch for small diy wire pulling projects, liquid hand soaps works just as well

Others may have said it, but direct bury cable has to be 2’ deep regardless of what material your risers are. Shallower permitted if entire run in conduit. This is to protect wire from damage from digging.

It is good to check local codes. You mention the depth using pvc and a gfci but looks like you only used that to get into the trench and actually ran the UF cable by itself in the trench. Here, that would be more like 24" deep. They do sell fittings for rigid conduit that are compression so no bending or threading needed.

Keep at it April! 👍

In Australia we are not allowed to do any electrical work without a licensed electrician, even changing a switch or wall socket! If you do it on your own, home insurance will not pay out if your house burns down. It's costing me about US $4000 to run single phase power about 200 feet to my shed.

I take it that Romex wire you used was solid wire? When I did underground wire pulls, I always ran conduit from one end to the other, then pulled stranded wire. It’s a little extra work, but it’s easier for one person. Thank you April for another great video

I'm torn. I'm too lazy to do this myself, and I'm too cheap to pay someone to do it for me. I guess I'll keep running an extension cord to my neighbor's house until I get motivated.

I do think you are a hard worker and u r very knowledgeable on electric wiring sorry for the stupid comments I made

Very informative! Thanks!

Thanks April!!

Sometimes heating the cable at the turning point helps it bend easier. In cold climates the outer coating can micro crack. Nice job though! Larry

Put gfci inside garage and pass your wire as you did. gfci won't need waterproof box.

I would’ve purchased an extension cord long enough to go from the house to the outside shed💯😂🤣. Great video…

When using an LB you always want to bring the wire into the LB through the long straight side and out the 90 degree side. Doing it backwards as you did with the first LB makes it far more difficult.

4:45 haven’t finished watching the vid (so it’s possible what about to add as a tip was used) Another TIP for outside or anywhere using conduit or fittings or penetrating structures w/ holes and want to seal up holes for bug protection and weather……DUCT SEAL. Great stuff that has been around and used for very long time, and comes in bricks or small tubs (similar to spackle containers, but I’d pay for the brick kind as usually cost usually less when compared to amount getting, and can use in many different places and save it for future use). Also, yes, “can” fire stop and caulk the penetrations and in some areas I’d go that route, but say inside an LB, Duct Seal is what want to use, NOT any type of product that comes in caulk tube, imo, as can be difficult & messy. Also, yes, for ppl who gonna ask or want to know, can use the correct rated spray foam type material for inside electrics, fittings to seal up holes/air gaps, and then can caulk with exterior sealant etc….around the LB for more protection). Ok, back to the vid😁✌🏻

Thank you. I'm about to do just that.

thank you! this is just what I need to know!

I do similar things on my properties…however I like to run continuous conduit in case I need to add another wire or upgrade the installed wire sometime down the line

Wiring is easy... Digging the trench is the hard part!

It would have been nice to show how you wired that into the breaker box. Once in the shed, that wire could go anywhere; into a sub-panel, into a single outlet, into a lighting setup, but wiring it into the breaker box at the source is pretty much the only option (unless, maybe, you are connecting to an existing plug?).

Another great video and project 👍

Thank you, April. I enjoy your videos very much. They are continuously researched and demonstrated perfectly. Thanks for all you do in the community. Felix

Romex was not allowed in conduit years ago. Has that changed?

I didn't see any strain relief for the conduit going into the ground. The conduit can be heaved or pulled down due to frost.

you can also use a heatgun to heat the conduit and shape it how you need it. this saves stress on the straps

Thanks for sharing.