Hilarious!

Tim Ball ha ha, yep, i was using a knuckle on the tablet. doh

I wish I'd read this comment first! :D

I always use my nose

Tim Ball or phone screen!🤣🤣🤣

Glad it helped!

Glad it helped

Really happy you enjoyed it Andres!

Glad to hear you were inspired - completely sympathise with the freezing temperatures though, that's no fun at all!

Mistakes happen. Thankfully, if you can put a couple of hours aside, you can fully service your bike and have it running like new with little to no effort, especially with sealed bearings. No more worrying about loose beads.

this is the way

+Jonathan Araya Gld the video helped Jonathan and thanks for getting in touch!

+Global Cycling Network I wanted to service my bike's headset but I'm having a difficulty. I have a GPS tracker in there and I have no idea what to do now. any suggestions?

I'm gonna take a shot at your question, and the solution is probably simpler than you think. You must be referring to a tube-shaped GPS inside the steerer tube, I assume. That entire GPS unit slides right out, while removing the hex bolt at the top, and when re-installed, together they do the same job as a threadless headset top-cap & bolt. That is, they create the initial compression that sets the adjustment on the bearings. Once the tracker is removed from the bike (by removing that extra-long top bolt), you can then proceed to service or replace the bearings or the entire headset assembly, as shown in this video. Once you've done that, you can re-assemble the headset and then use that same bolt of the GPS to FINE-TUNE the bearing adjustment, and then align the stem to the wheel & tighten the stem bolts. The tightened stem itself actually provides the brute clamping force to KEEP the bearings adjusted, and you could actually remove the GPS unit (or, the top-cap & short bolt of a threadless w/no GPS) at that point & ride the bike without it, the same as you can do to a standard threadless headset. In essence, the GPS unit and its bolt are simply replacing the top-cap & bolt of the original headset. The bolt and the GPS should be removed together, so try gradually raising the GPS out of the steerer tube as the bolt is loosened, removing the bolt & GPS as a single assembly. GPS or no, the top bolt is really only an adjuster, and not an adjustment-locking mechanism. If the stem was just barely tight enough to stay aligned with the wheel, the top bolt, the cap, and the nut would be taking the brunt of a task they weren't designed to do. They may hold the adjustment a while, but the threads may come loose or strip, and/or the top cap could cave in or even break from the transfer of the stresses of actual riding. They'd only last a very short time in actual use before the bearings first went out of adjustment, followed by some real damage, including to the rider. The type of nut that holds this bolt may be one of two types: One is the star-fangled nut commonly used for threadless headsets, and the other is a cylindrical assembly that I'll refer to as an "expanding nut", for lack of a proper term. On the cylindrical type, it has a large bolt that is tightened to expand the assembly until it firmly grips the inside of the steerer, and that large bolt has the smaller threaded hole into which the cap bolt is threaded' this type of anchor can be removed & re-used, using a larger (6mm?) hex key. A star-fangled nut can only be removed by using a punch and a mallet to drive it downward & out the bottom of the steerer tube, and should never be re-used once it's been removed. You won't need to remove the nut to merely service your bearings anyway, but if you perhaps sell the bike and want to keep your GPS, you'll want an original-style top cap and another extra-long bolt to replace the GPS parts on the bike. A long replacement bolt is necessary, since when the GPS was installed, the anchoring nut was re-located much deeper into the steerer than a standard anchoring nut would normally be (to make room for the GPS unit). You certainly can install a new star-fangled nut in the upper area of the steerer if you wish to use the standard short top-cap bolt, but I don't recommend this unless you first remove the cylindrical expansion nut below it. You'll never get either of them out of the steerer, if they're both in there like that at the same time. Okay, in truth, you COULD get them out, but it'd involve machinery and probably at least a little damage to the interior surface of the steerer. If you're confident that there's no dirt, wear, or a lack of lube in the (loose) bearings, you can simply try loosening the clamp bolts on the stem where it attaches to the steerer tube and then making the bolt at the top tighter, skipping ahead to the last part of this video as a guide for final adjustment, and you just might be okay. Just check it afterward for roughness or center-detention -- sure signs of at least dirt, and at worst, damage to the bearings and/or cups & races. They would need replacing, if so. Hope this helps.

Home

lonewolf Like Vax replied to someone else, they have a video especially for what you want, just use the search bar from their channel page (magnifying glass next to 'About' tab)...

Glad we could help!

All the clues we know are in this video Peter, have you tried searching forums for your specific bike?