Anthony Haamen just got the single lanyard too and was kind of wondering what to do to extend the rappel. What do you think of tying a bight of rope in the middle of the lanyard and connecting the belay device there? I don’t see any reason why not.

@@OneTradeMan Should be doable. I have seen mentioned in a couple of forums the usage of a clove hitch in the middle to connect to the belay device. Same principle, less rope wastage.

Giacomo Pascazio I've just now been introduced to using a bowline on a bight to attach the sling to the harness but couldn't find any pull/drop tests... Any idea which knot (bowline or girth hitch) reduce the strength of the sling less?

Ivan Lawrence I'm honestly not sure, i don't have any data. But i'll ask to some guide instructor i know and i'm sure they'll have something concrete. I'll letyou know

@@wolfberg_gpasca do the bowline doubled - rope passed through twice for better strength and ease untying. Have not used it on slings,

use a clove hitch

It's a good method, true. But gotta make sure you reclip the end to the harness with a second locking biner.

Well your doing it wrong.

In the DMM video, the forces at play were upwards of 19-27kN when it was a fall factor of 2. I believe that all the falls where the sling broke were fall factors of two. I happen to have a new DMM carabiner laying around that is rated for 24kN in ideal situations. You might have a new sling, but old carabiner and the carabiner could break, or the carabiner could be rotated . To get a fall factor of 2, you'd have the climb above the connected point and jump off. Which isn't smart regardless of dyneema or nylon since they are static. I believe around 10 kN you'd break your pelvis and potentially more in that fall. It could also cause the sling (dyneema or nylon), carabiner, or belay loop to fail as well. To sum up, If you aren't connected to a dynamic rope, don't climb above the anchor, and as a leader place a piece of gear above the belay before you start climbing the pitch.

It allows the auto-block or Prusik knot to be centered underneath the rappel device instead of being rigged off the leg loop.

Also quite important if you are a woman and/or have long hair and don’t want you hair to accidentally get stuck in the atc

To expand on why having the backup auto-block knot on the leg loop is a bad idea, you have two big issues with it. First, and probably more obvious, your leg loop is not meant to be shock loaded at a single point. When your harness arrests a fall, your weight is distributed against all points of contact with the main stopping force being at your hardpoints or belay loop. These points are rated for fall arrests. By introducing a shock load to a single part of the leg loop webbing when the autoblock catches, you risk damaging the harness. Less obvious is the risk of the autoblock being bypassed entirely. If you raise your leg high enough, the top of the autoblock knot can touch the rappel device. Doing this creates the same downward force that you would be applying to bypass it in a lower with your hands, but unintentionally. If you are in a situation where you need that third hand blocking but your leg is raised, it’s useless. Outside of keeping hair and clothing out of the rappel device, extending it solves both of these issues by connecting the autoblock to the belay loop. Your belay loop is rated for fall arrests and it will not shift upwards relative to the rappel device no matter what orientation your legs are in. Some people also may find they have better control over the descent due to the angle of the brake end ropes being more aggressive

Good question and good answers.

it feels better!

On tiny dyneema, what’s is the best knot (clove histch, bowline, in-line figure 8, overhand...) that has know slippage an reduce strength data for this rap usage?

greg m Where are you talking about? What was unsafe?

You're just talking about one of the definitions. Another one of the definitions from Webster's dictionary is: serving as a duplicate for preventing failure of an entire system upon failure of a single component.

I also like the word "shock loading" . That is prob the most discuss words I have heard since I started Climbing 8 years ago. Say that word and everyone has to have their two cents haha

Chad even more when you put redundant and shock loading together in a practical scenario lol