10:10 - 10:15 I respect the humility in his comment. A few seconds prior, the host is building him up; which is the polite thing to do, and appears to be true. Yet when he gives unnamed credit to all that helped him; that’s when I decided to look him up for more content.

Thanks for the tips guys. Great video Ben.

Hey Knafs guy, I love your Amazon headquarters😂 Keep up the awesome and informative videos, I for one can say I've learned quite a bit in the handful of content I've caught from you, count me subscribed! Been a burrito believer, this channel can only help your brand to expand!

Excellent video

This is great information. Thanks!

Outstanding

Thanks guys--I'd have to go for the chalice.

Love this, thank you 👍

Pretty cool bushcraft chalice!

The mosquito buzzing the mic was wigging me out 😂. I imagine the jungle is beyond buggy

i think with a scandi the steel choice is an importand thing, these fine sandvik or uddelholm steels, or carbon tool steels like 80crv2 are top notch for this type of grind beacause of their great apex stability. also i think the kind of trees you find in scandinavia leeds towards the scandi grind. a real scandi is not that great for hardwoods because of the reasons you mentioned. in an area with harder woods i prefer a convex grind, don´t like the idear of ruining my scandi with a micro bevel.

Good looking knife 🥷

Hey Ben I haven’t seen one video or anything about that Knafs 400/600 diamond stone you have on your website. You should do one showing a regular whetstone and why you need a diamond stone for these “super steels”

Bevels are also called phases. Primary phase, secondary phase, and such.

Awesome video and great advice. I like the spoon.

Would love to see the Lulu come out in a different steel for those of us who don't necessarily need the strength of Magnacut steel.

Whoah, it's an American Scandi with a second phase. Exactly what Mora did, lel. As far as I know a "true" Scandi grind has one phase and a convex grind. I love my Mora Pro C though.

7:20 dont drag your un debbured edge through wood, you rippe of the Burr and it takes good metal with it, or it rolls your burr over to one side, learn to weaken the burr ir debbur on the stone and then go direct to leather or soft wood with compound on it so you clean of the last bit of metal, dont strip mindless or like crazy like many people teach in Videos Just do carreful a few strokes.

ScandiVex is a better way to go imho especially if you have a high scandi grind. Unfortunately, many scandi blades are too small or shallow for how thick the blade is. In that situation, ya have to go the secondary bevel route, which takes so much slicing ability and bite away. If ya convex that type of blade, it becomes too blunt and pretty much a pain to use . Usually, I will use a loaded strop with hard leather and give my scandi a convex edge. I personally can't stand a secondary esp on a scandi that's above 3mm thick , such as the Garberg. They dive into the wood but have more resistance, making the knife difficult to control. They are just too dang thick for the geometry of the edge. This is why Condor and Tops knives use the scandiVex edge on their knives. I love my Tops Brakimo scandiVex ,nice and tall grind but not too thin ...its near perfect. Honestly, I prefer to keep a small zero grind scandi for just using as secondary whittle knife. A true scandi for detailed carving is the best, especially for lessening wrist and forearm fatigue.

Great video Ben! Definitely looking forward to adding the Lulu to my collection

The spoon and the chalice... A spoon has some reach advantage and can hold some liquid, while maybe not as much liquid as the chalice, it's a tool that can do more than the chalice alone. So the spoon can work like a chalice, but it can also work like a spoon and as an extended reaching device, but the chalice can only be a chalice and not work like a spoon... so I think the spoon would take priority as being more useful than the chalice, while the chalice still makes a good cup but not a good spoon. c:

Is it now not a compound grind?

All those misquotes buzzing in front of the camera…now THAT is field research lol.

First tip to sharpen a skandi grind knife: you make it a normal knife

Happy Malaria

Aaahh so Dan tries to reimagine the term "Secondary bevel"? Jesus christ.......... People have been doing this for ages. You didn't invent anything Dan.. Geez.. Why don't you talk to a Scandinavian knifemaker Dude? Why do American knifemakers talk to American, and not Scandinavian knifemakers about this?.. Ben, You've made the most basic type of knife. You thinned out the ricasso, that's the part that needs most handle material. Handle is to short too. Ben, stop taking advice on "Scandinavian knives" from Americans, who just wanted to jump on the "bushcraft" wagon and makes up terms to makes themselves feel more special.. A dogwood Scandi. Just stop

Nobody calls a scandi grind a full flat grind, a scandi without a micro bevel is just a scandi grind or some say zero grind scandi. A full flat grind is a primary bevel that goes from the spine to the edge and has a secondary bevel.

you wont roll a mora

Mhhh, ok maybe MagnaCut isn't the right steel for a Scandi then. I've seen people batoning bolts in half with this steel and flat grind at 62 HRC. So I am a bit surprised to hear about rolling and microchips as Scandi grind. Scandi with micro-V-bevel or Scandivex can be done, but this is not how the blade purists would sharpen their scandi knives! The titel is absolutely missleading!

When someone recommends you put a secondary bevel on your Scandi grind knife (a 'micro bevel' what ever that is) then stop listening to them. They have NO IDEA what they're talking about and you'll ruin your knife if you follow their advice. DO NOT make a secondary bevel on your Scandi grind knife! NEVER!

A scandi grind don't have a microbevel.. you have ruined the edge.

Screw a chalice and a spoon, just make a bowl!