I would also like to see an Export for Print video.

Just change the resolution to the resolution of your printer. Also change the image color profile to CMYK. Normal printer resolution is 300dpi. That's all you have to do for print. Just to clarify, this is for home/office paper printing, based on the this video. Resolution varies based on print material, color varies based on printer and technique used such as color separation. I believe most printers still use Pantone colors for commercial print? For web, a resolution of 72 is sufficient. For a printer, 300 is, but there are cases where you might need upto 1200 dpi.

It doesn't seem that easy or as straight forward to me. Export settings, JPEG, TIFF? Color space, sRGB, Adobe1998, Pro-photo, CMYK? Sharpen Yes/No? Printer profiles, Costco vs Print Lab vs Pro Home Printer? Paper types vs Metal vs Acrylic vs glass vs canvas. Everyone wants to share their images on the web and I get that. I just think these videos should end with a web and print option.

I've been printing with wide format machines, Xerox, and offset printers for over 12 years. Getting colors and images set up for print is like learning Photoshop all over again. The amount of variables going into color and quality are endless. My advice. Stay consistent with your workflow as well as the printer (company) you use. Trial and error will be inevitable as you start. Image formats should be pdf or tiff. If pdf, I recommend pdf/x-3a, 4a, or even pre press. 1a will convert all color spaces to cmyk and might not get as vibrant a print as you would like. If your printer has a cmyk color machine (most likely) you'd think embedding a cmyk color space is the obvious choice which isn't always the case. Cmyk files tend to be quite a bit "duller" and gives a flat look. Keep in mind many wide format machines actually use more than 4 colors with additions such as light magenta, light cyan, and light black. With these machines, the color conversion happens within the machines algorithms itself. Sometimes, a file embedded with rgb colour space will be converted into cmyk in a better fashion than what Photoshop will do with its "change mode" option. Black and white images *almost always* have to be colour corrected for a satisfactory result. I'm barely scraping the iceberg and can understand why Aaron might be hesitant on a tutorial. It really is a whole other world of expertise.

I'd love an opportunity to be #2 on that list 😂💪😇

wacom intuos pro m

Саша С Thank you. 🙂✌🏻🙏🏻

Definitely. We like this article on social media sizes: sproutsocial.com/insights/social-media-image-sizes-guide/

@@phlearn Brilliant article, many thanks Aaron

Here is a wonderful guide on social media sizes to get you started: sproutsocial.com/insights/social-media-image-sizes-guide/

the is no difference. They do the same thing but one is just a quicker way. Sometimes you find the shortcut way doesn't work on some when some people try it. was a bug which i had once and the hassle to try contact abode about it / find an answer was becoming a hassle so apply image it is lol

I would keep your original file always at the highest dpi- when you export for web, by default it should change to 72 for you. I hope that helps when possible always keep the highest resolution!

DPI is NOT resolution! Working with digital images DPI is not relevant until you decide to actually print them. 3000px are 3000px no matter of what your DPI setting is. Export your file with a given resolution in pixels at 300dpi and 1dpi. There will be no difference at all.

@@NicoKaiser True. However it does affect file size. When exporting to the web anything higher than screen resolution of 72 dpi is useless and only results in a larger file.

@@k2jwdno it doesn't. If you specify the physical dimension of your export file in pixels then the dpi setting has no effect at all on the file size. Go try it yourself. Exporting at 3000px x 3000px and all other settings identical at different dpi values will result in identical files

@@NicoKaiser pure gold, thanks

Jack Suchodolski Well there are people who still don’t presumably know how to do these kinds of stuff, So he is trying to help people out with some quick tutorials. 🙂

I think I might have some more advanced tutorials that might wet your whistle 💪🙏😇

@@kromsofficial I'm thinking that you really didn't 'read' what Jack wrote. He's referencing the PRO SUBSCRIPTION tutorials.

Dave Dube my bad sorry haha,

You can also just go to Edit->Duplicate and duplicate merged layers to get to the same place.

Yes I thought the same thing. Also isn't Command J the same thing?

@@magdalenaprettycripple549 nope! Command/Ctrl+J duplicates the seelcted layer, without prompting any other options - like duplicating in a new document, for example. Command/Ctrl+Alt+Shift+E literally creates a single merged layer out of all the currently visible layers, above whichever layer is currently selected :)

Also, a shortcut to the legacy Save for Web dialog is Command/Ctrl+Alt+Shift+S

Thanks for taking out the time to comment. @@GabrielMisfire

Not everybody has or wants to use Lightroom, thats why it's called a Photoshop tutorial

@@naritcom, I've been thinking the same thing each time someone mentions Lightroom in the comments on PHLEARNS's tutorials. I wish I could give you more than 1 thumbs up.

Lightroom messes up the size of my copyright notice for different size images. I prefer Photoshop where I have complete control and can see what it's going to look like.

Tony H Photoshop is not the right tool for the job for this. Lightroom, Capture One, OnOne Raw, et al all have export features designed for this purpose.

Bob Koss I find watermarks to be worthless in terms of theft prevention and highly distracting to look at so I guess I’d say just don’t do that in the first place. I also find if one must add this you have a lot of layout options for adding watermark in LR export dialog options. I’ve never seen it look bad or messed up as you say. To each their own on that though. 😊✌️