Both ends of you round slipstone are plugged with residue from the last sharpening. That's what makes it black. First, you didn't use any oil on the stone or the bit, much less some Trend Lapping Fluid, which floats the metal parts away even better than oil. You should always use some sort of fluid. To clean your stone, put some oil on it and rub the black parts lightly with your finger. That should deposit some of the black on your finger that you can wipe off easily. With flat stones, put the oil on, rub it around with your finger, then add some more oil and rub it across some clean coardboard. The cardboard absorbs the oil with the black residue in it. One can rub the round stone on cardboard too if you rotate the stone while dragging it across the cardboard. If you don't clean the stone it looses it's honing ability. It has to remove some metal to hone.

I found the round one on Amazon UK. They do a 4, 5, 8 & 10mm, all of which are ruby & 3000 grit. Hope this helps anyone still looking.

Just a general suggestion to WOOD Magazine....Please click the "CC" option so there are closed captions for the folks with hearing issues and those who are watching and don't want to broadcast what they are watching.

for the inside honing with drill press, mark the bit with a blue magic marker. acts like layout blue to show high places

THANKS WOOD

Nice Video. Thank you

And now there’s three edges, the wavy edge bit by Fisch. It’s awesome

I agree with a couple of comments below...The radial cutter should be sharpened by stoning its bevel, not its (flat) back; the analogy that it's otherwise like sharpening a chisel by removing material from the back instead of the bevel ("You forgot the cutting face!") is accurate. Yes, in the process of sharpening a chisel, you do indeed address the back--but only to make sure it's flat--before before sharpening the chisel by stoning the bevel. Other than that, the technique of using a round stone lightly chucked in a drill press works very well. I have resuscitated some nice old CONVALCO bits this way.

very useful, keeping my bits sharp for coring out hollow forms on the lathe

Where did you get the round slipstone, and could you tell us what grit is it?

On the serrated tooth bit, weren’t you sharpening the rake on the serrated teeth, should it be the vertical edge instead???

Do you have a link to that sharpening stone?

Very informative! If I go to my local hardware store and ask for a "slpstone," will I be looked at crosseyed? Is "slipstone" the name of the product, or is that a regional term?

What grit for the triangle honing sharpener?

where do I purchase the kit?

Was hoping to find this kit but can’t. Googled the heck out of it and can’t find the round file used here.

Why not build a jig for the kit?

You forgot the cutting face!

@1:51 Capt Eddie says Don't touch this part, and @3:54 if you give this side 20 strokes then you must give 20 strokes on the other side to keep them even

Sharpening a Forstner bit's main cutters the way you demonstrate is like sharpening a chisel by removing material from the BACK instead of the bevel. if you sharpen the bevel on the Forstner bit's cutters, you are only removing metal from a small fraction of the face you sharpened. It's much faster, and then whisk off the burr, and you're done. And it's the same thing on the serrated teeth around the rim -- I think it would be faster to sharpen the vertical face of each serration, rather than the sloping back...and for me, it's just easier to sharpen a vertical face, no guessing as to the proper angle.

I have just watched 3 videos and each one has a different method, some grind the faces some grind the tips ... go figure.

Sharpening the BACK of the serrations to get the cutting edge sharp is like sharpening the back side of a knife blade to get the cutting edge sharp! Also sharpening the flat side of the chipper blade is crazy! No, no. You should sharpen the bevel edge.

There is not really any point in trying to sharpen the sloping trailing edge of the teeth on the periphery - they don't cut anything. The cutting edge of the teeth is the vertical edge and that's what needs to be sharpened.

McMaster-Carr are MASSIVE rip-off pirates (and SLOW service and doubt shipping rates) - only consider as an absolute LAST resort.

Buy new ones