yes I use a double tipped head as well and it works so much better

Wow, thanks buddy, great comment ;)

That's cool to hear, thanks buddy ;)

Dabs welding brazzing dragging

Thank you so much!!!!

This guy nails is every time!

Thank you very much, don't forget to share :)

Thanks!!!

My pleasure man, glad you liked it, don't forget to subscribe and share, it helps a lot :)

Best comment yet ;) thanks for being so supportive, have a great day!

Got2Learn : well, I just speak the truth and give credit where credit is due! ... great day to you to and thanks for the reply.

;) please share if you can, it goes a long way ;)

Thank you so much!!!

Great to hear! I'd love if you can share with your friends and family, it would help keep this channel running healthy, thx again!!

My pleasure man, glad you liked it, don't forget to subscribe and share, it helps a lot :)

My pleasure man, glad you liked it, don't forget to subscribe and share, it helps a lot :)

Thanks man, you pretty much have everything you need now ;)

Thx a lot Ahmed, really appreciate it buddy!!!!

Thanks a lot man, please share if you can ;)

fatcat007 0

Awesome, good to hear that ;)

Absolutely!

Thank you so much Nelson!

🍻🍻🍻

👌👌👌

My pleasure buddy ;)

Thanks!!!

Thank you very much!!!

Glad you enjoyed it

? It's the correct way.

The difference between both is very minimal: kzfaq.infoUgkxgG4UY2MCFO8M2-RwKnAtm-VSRs3swLRA

@@Got2Learn right on ty, will there also be an audible difference? Neutral should be quiet/peaceful than the other?

the inner flame will be longer, a bit less higher pitch too.

Yes, they basically just you nitrogen to purge the lines while the braze, the pipe doesn't crust up as much inside and it prevent any regulators down the line from getting blocked

Much appreciated!

🤗🤗🤗

😌

@@Got2Learn Oh and the picture of the oxidation flame, you taught me something there, noone in my career has ever explained to me why we want the correct flame xD so thanks!

🙏🙏🙏

I was always taught turn acetylene off first. A before O or up you go was the saying.

;)

😊😊😊

Thanks!

Thanks a lot Eames!!

@@Got2Learn you're welcome

Yup!!

@@Got2Learn Thanks for taking the time to create this video! I just finished my brazing course. Now I'll be learning electricity for the next 2 weeks. Hopefully my brain doesnt turn into spaghetti

Hehe, have fun buddy ;)

I usually use 5 and 10 with rose bud and 8 and 25 for cutting I’ve never seen anyone use 5 and 5

Thanks 👍

If you are brazing, just get silfos rods, they have flux built into them ;)

Regular solder & flux work well for 1/2" L pipe used for an air compressor run...... brazing is overkill, especially for the thinner L pipe......

Must braze for mini-splits! 👌👌👌

@@Got2Learn Thank you very much for the quick reply. Your videos are excellent.

@@DAGenao thank you too for the nice compliment 😇

replace pipe use somewhere else mini splits are all flare fittings not worth the hassle to have to purge line properly while brazing then to have to leak check it swap pipe connect 4 flare fittings and all good

@@shawnbutler3447 my diy mini split does not have flaired dittings but it is a24,000 tu

Thx @dennis boyer, really appreciate your comment, if you can share it that would be very nice of you ;)

🙏🙏

My pleasure man, glad you liked it, don't forget to subscribe and share, it helps a lot :)

My pleasure buddy, please share if you don't mind ;)...where you from in Canada?

@@Got2Learn Ontario, about 30-45min North of TO.

Sweet!

Yeah, that's also another vial option ;)

I'll let a gas expert answer you on this one, we will both learn from it 🙏

I'm an ole plumber in Texas and years ago we were not allowed to use any Copper on natural gas lines because something about the Gas companies added another additive in the the natural gas..Saying it corrodes Copper.

The sulfur in the natural gas is whats bad for the copper lines. It will deteriorate it over time. Copper can be used for propane but I would only do that outside of the house for the high pressure side off the tank to the regulator like most company's do. Pretty sure they use type k copper.

It's still good forva bit, but yeah I gotta recharge it ;)

Yes, 50/50.

5/5 is WRONG. 5/10 is the correct method.

Sure, this head right here: www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS8000-Intensity-Trigger-Start/dp/B0019CQL60?ac_md=2-1-QmV0d2VlbiAkMjUgYW5kICQ1MA%3D%3D-ac_d_pm&cv_ct_cx=plumbing+torch&dchild=1&keywords=plumbing+torch&pd_rd_i=B0019CQL60&pd_rd_r=55b4d663-3537-4a4b-9a8b-853e232708d5&pd_rd_w=jGyJp&pd_rd_wg=dyiwM&pf_rd_p=ed561ba8-5ea6-49a4-9ab5-37ca86c823dd&pf_rd_r=0SP047RFKDXN4DJAG0J7&psc=1&qid=1612979640&sr=1-2-22d05c05-1231-4126-b7c4-3e7a9c0027d0&linkCode=sl1&tag=gottolearnsho-20&linkId=1d7de896e5163c699e0c3f70d5de0811&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

Thank you. I have this head already. I mean the one have the pencil flammable. I can use that head in the tight spot and not burning anything

amzn.to/2U3OTaa

Thank you so much

@@HieuTran-xx2sb 🙏

💪

Yeah but chuck in movement of any kind and pop goes the weasel.

Thanks for the great comment buddy, really appreciate it, i'd love if you can share it that would be awesome :)

I never heat the rod itself, the heat from the joint must melt it just like when soldering. I just heat the joint close to cherry red and follow the flame with the rod. Once that's done, I cap it ever so slightly to give it that extra strength :)

@@Got2Learn Thanks for responding bro & your feedback but when you say you once it's cherry red and you follow the flame...what do you mean by that? I don't get you dude? Reason I'm saying that is the flame is already being heated over & covering the pipe! So how do you follow the flame? Also what do you mean by you cap it ever so slightly regarding the joint? Btw...I'm from London UK....Peace out y'all.. HVAC krew!

You need to make sure you are heating the pipe and applying the rod at the same time, so to do that, you need to heat offset of where you are applying your rod, for example: You heat at 12 o clock and you apply rod at 9 o clock while turning in a clockwise motion, the rod needs to follow the flame not the opposite, hope this is clear. This also makes sure that you aren't heating the actual rod, a mistake that a lot of people make!

@@Got2Learn Nice 1 bro... most appreciated dude!

Thanks man, a lot of time...less than with full-blown tanks but they still last long. If you you are oxy-cutting, it's a different story ;)

Silfos 15

The surface becomes so hot it just has no choice to melt ;)

@@Got2Learn seems like there is tremendous and fast heat transfer to the tip to be able to work so fast specially when its silver and cooper composition which by themselves need upwards of 1000degC to melt

You got that right, the pipe and fitting needs to be read hot for it to melt ;)

@@Got2Learn on copper soldering or brazing would you say a neutral flame is better then carburising?

I always go for the neutral flame, I explain why in the video, check it out ;)

Thanks, I don't know of any others, sorry!

This is more to show the technique, but yeah under a counter is a pain for sure!

Yes, mine came with the arrestors on the torch ;) thanks btw!

Should have a flash-back arrestor between the regulator and the hose. Right on the torch is useless

Most probably yes, what are you brazing on?

Harris, but I dunno what the model is, not at home right now.

Thanks!!!

Thank you!!

It was a mirror lol

It happened because who knows. The bolts are supposed to be tight, so the compressor won't vibrate so bad and so it stays put. You want to use the normal brazing rod, only use a different type of rod, if you need the rod to braze different things (i.e. copper to steel, aluminium to copper, diff applications) Idk what a Jewelers torch is, but as long as it gets hot enough to melt the brazing rod, that's what you need, as explained in the video. For simplicity sake, use a turbo torch or oxy acetylene torch. Also, it sounds like you have no idea what you're doing, I hope you know what type of refrigerant is in the system, because if it's propane or something flammable, you're toast. The label isn't always correct. There might be some back pressure from the remaining refrigerant in the compressor, even after the refrigerant has been recovered, making it near impossible to braze. Whenever you put the new line, give yourself wiggle room, so it doesn't crack again. Hope it goes well, don't do it u less you know what you're doing, because you're going to have a bad time

@@urjnlegend "sounds like I have no idea what I'm doing" If I had no idea what I was doing, I would not know what questions to ask... I own a recovery machine and a vacuum pump - lines are dry - no refrigerant - no propane... dry. "Normal brazing rod" most HVAC guys I talked to use silfos #15 brazing sticks for this type of repair.

@@earthstewardude that is what we use. There is a product called thermo trap. You can get it a Grainger or similar supply house. You apply it on the copper where you don't want the heat to go. Use a regular acetylene/oxygen torch kit but keep the flame short. The liquid line should be easy to seal just don't get it too hot.

You only liked the comment, but didn't provide link/URL :(

Which link are you looking for, sorry daisy.

@@Got2Learn to buy this brazing torch

This is pretty much the same kit I have (mine was discontinued) but ESAB is a very well known brand: amzn.to/32Q1LYF

@@Got2Learn thank you so much. I will buy this kit. You r great. Thanks again

Braising is also used when connecting dissimilar metals, like brass to copper, stainless steel to copper etc. so you are not wrong. In HVAC/R we work with a bunch or brass, stainless steel and copper and have had to learn how to control the heat in such a way it doesn’t destroy those pieces or the components inside.

Thank you too!

And in our oxy acetylene tanks the flasback arrestors are after the tank on the regulators

Nvrmind

Thx buddy, really appreciate it man ;)

It's worth a try! Try using 2 torches at once if 1 isn't enough, you need 840°c of heat to melt the silfos rods ;)

@@Got2Learn ok.. That's a good idea.. Thank you!

Np!!!

You probably already tried at this point, as its been a month since you posted. However, maybe try MAPP Gas. Much hotter than propane, not much more expensive. May require different propane torch. I got my kit at Menards, one tank MAPP gas, and a torch for $25.

Oxy/Propane is good too, just has it's own pros and cons. I've been working with Oxy/Acet for years, and it does the job just fine for what I do ;)

@@Got2Learn besides that it has a little lower temp... its safer and cheaper. i just wondered why you didnt mention it, but did mention a propane burner, thats all.