A good way to minimize the dust is to get a 20" box fan and bungee a furnace filter to the intake side. It works better if you take five 20" filters and tape them together into a 5 sided box then have the fan blowing out from the 6th side to maximize surface area of the filters and get a good flow (there's plans on line for this one). Doesn't end the problem of dust but it does help pull ultra fine particles out of the air. I'm working on the once fire method myself, thanks for experimenting.

have you seen Simon Leach's videos on raw glazing. He's been doing it very successfully for a while and has lots of videos on it,

you have such a peaceful demeanor and this style of video is my favorite! I'm so new to pottery so this single firing is something I've never considered, does it affect the integrity of the piece?

Just watched this for the first time, thank you! I'm about to embark on my first single firing. I'm intrigued with you putting the bungs in right at the beginning, I would've thought for single firings, allowing moisture to escape initially is key. It doesn't seem to have affected your firing at all. Was the kiln vented at all in the first couple of hours? btw I"m so impressed with your calmness at looking at the results! All those top pots would've been whipped straight out if it were me so I could see other shelves immediately! 😂

Me gusta mucho tu trabajo !!😍

Interesting video, thanks for sharing your experience 😊

Thanks so much for sharing your experiment in raw glazing. I have a quick question: after you glazed the inside, you sprayed water on the outside to equalize the absorption. Do you do the same thing later on when you glaze the outside of the same piece (i.e. do you spray the inside with water after glazing the outside)? I'm considering trying raw glazing and I haven't been able to find a good answer to this question. It seems like it wouldn't be a good idea to spray water on a surface that has already been glazed but I'm wondering why it's necessary with one but not the other. Thanks in advance!

Which kiln do you have? Thank you so much for these helpful videos!

If you made a denser glaze and altered the viscosity with darvan, could you theoretically go for a full dip rather than pouring inside/outside 12 hours apart?

thanks for sharing.

This is video is so informative. Thank you so much! I have one question that came out of it tho :) If I can't assure vitirification of the ceramic, than it can't be defined as food sface right? To give an ilustration: I just bought an old kiln (those ones where it only shuts when the cone melts to its temperature). If I have a cone that melts at 1196ºC degrees and use it to fire stoneware clay that vitrificates at 1200ºC degrees, there is a difference of 4ºC degrees. I can't say that those ceramic works are food safe. Right? This having in mind the single fire method. Sorry, your video was so detailed and informative, but I still have this question. TSMIA!!

Borat does pottery? Nice

Cant you just let it dry for longer (after glazing) ...then fire? The biggest for me would be knocking off time to get too that finished product/piece! Nice detailed tutorial..liked the ride!

Doesn't the temperature that you need for fire a bisque different than the glaze ? I haven't learn much about glaze yet, but I thought that was the point for why you can't glaze the bone dry pots without fire them. (since technically they still can absorb water)

hey Man will u help me to learn those skills

I am here to tell you that slow fire does not resolve that issue hahah I have blown up a few ans ruined a whole kiln from one single fired pot glazed the night before 😭