So great to hear that! Thanks for the comment

Thanks for the comment! Yes I find the rowlock to be most practical. Exactly same technique. Also allows the oar to hang off the back of boat when at rest, stopped at the rowlock by the collar / sleeve (if your oar has one)

@@CharlieBriggsUK Also, we realised, a rowlock would mean less wear on our wooden transom! Anyway, your demonstration was the best I've seen so far, and I particularly appreciate the effort that went into making the giant demo paddle :-)

@@quentinsf Yes certainly! And would maintain full freeboard on the transom to fend off following seas. Whether the rowlock is metal or plastic, I've found that the best abrasion solution is to protect the sculling oar by having a section of PVC pipe over the chafe area of the oar shaft. The pipe can be split lengthways with a hacksaw, and with two people can be stretched out and introduced to the oar, elastically clamping itself on. That being said, if you only intended on sculling short distances, had a plastic rowlock, and didn't mind a varnish touch-up on the oar every couple of years, you could skip the abrasion protection entirely. I tend to use sculling as much as rowing (on rivers), which is quite extreme, hence my abrasion measures. Is the boat in question the Tideway? Do you have a rowlock hole on transom already? I personally find the standard chandler plastic rowlocks strong enough for everything apart from max-effort stand-up sculling from the burliest of boaters

@@CharlieBriggsUK Ha! I now aspire to be among the burliest of boaters! But yes, it's for the tideway, and we're having some work done on the transom to allow for a better mounting of our electric outboard, so we thought we'd get the carpenter to do something to enable sculling at the same time, so he's going to put in a couple of rowlock sockets (for left- or right-hand use). Our gaff has metal jaws around the mast, and I managed to do a neat and cheap job of adding protection by buying a few metres of leather bootlace which I wrapped around it... perhaps I could do something similar with a rowlock...

@@quentinsf I think your solution will suit the boat's aesthetic better! Good idea having sockets either side. Will holes just be drilled vertically down into the existing transom, or will some extra thickness be added first? Also, have you considered doing any boating down near Surrey (River Wey or Thames) / South coast? Would be awesome to sail with you

Really glad you thought so!

I'm so glad it helped! When I was starting out, the key things I kept in my mind were: Start with oar blade horizontal. Oar handle rises across the stroke, and smartly drops at the ends. The figure-8 is actually quite a flat one. You can perhaps have your phone at the back of the boat in sight, and have the section of my video playing slowly (0.25 playback speed) where I'm doing the demo with the dummy oar. I think it's best to start out facing back and using 2 hands. Please do let me know how it goes, and ask further Q's if you need to. If you have a link to more info about your sculling oar, I'd love to research it!

Very interesting feedback! Great to hear that

Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment

Thanks Archer! May I ask: were you looking on YT specifically for stern sculling information, or did you find this video simply due to being subscribed?

@@CharlieBriggsUK I had been looking at sculling videos.

@@archerlane9802 Very interesting! Glad the vid's fulfilling its purpose already!

Really glad you liked it!

Glad you liked the vid!

Thanks for the comment Ken! Take a look at my video ‘cross country running a boat’. At around the 36 second mark, there’s a rear view of the boat. From the angle you can see the whole thing is just a 2x4 type of pine section, taller to the left where it’s doubled up, wood glued. A standard plastic row lock drops into a drilled hole. The whole thing is attached to the boat at 2 points: the far right end has a bolt that goes through the starboard hole in the boat (it has holes both sides as standard). The left side, about a half foot from the end, has steel plates screwed in the vertical fore and aft. These impinge against the fore and aft of the transom, preventing movement in that sense. The rear of the boat transom has a plastic lip you can grab. The rearmost plate we attach ed, has another little plate which goes up behind the lip and pinches it when the nut is done up - this stops the left end of the wood section wanting to rise up. This has proven to work really well, and is a method that doesn’t involve drilling new holes in the boat. If you didn’t care about drilling new holes, you could find a simpler solution to attach a row lock mount

That would work very well with a big Yuloh oar! Much bigger boats get sculled. Using your whole weight against the oar while standing must be satisfying

Thanks for the comment. Yes a curved oar can work sufficiently well with practice, but will be best done with two hands to better resist the dynamic twisting forces the blade shape makes when sculling. I recommend doing it with the blade convex to the sky (rainbow shape, viewed from side)

Thank you

@@lindsaygill8739 Hi! I got this Walker Bay 8 on FB marketplace. The tender sounds nice and manageable, but yeh the space can be an issue. It might stern scull better than row? You can scull sitting, standing or kneeling. Just need to sort out a stern row lock. Can practice draw sculling also, like a coracle!

Hi Tom, this sounds great. Will you carry 2 rowing oars, one used for sculling? If so, go for decent sized oars (at least 13.5'). Put a side-slit PVC pipe section over the rowlock/notch contact area of the sculling oar shaft for abrasion protection. If you will carry just one sculling oar, then again go for at least the same length as the rowing ones. Let's say 14' +. You can use an oar length calculator (involving the variables of boat langth and beam) to get a good rowing oar length estimate, then use the same length or greater for the sculling oar. How much space you have aboard for stowage, will influence the decision. I'd go for wood as it floats well, is resistant to dings, and offers more friction to allow PVC collars to grip onto it. Such a long oar can also be used for 'poling' in the shallows, which is a great form of propulsion (you can cap the handle end for damage protection, and grip the blade end when you use it). In terms of blade type, with big oars you can get 'yuloh' type specialist sculling blades, but frankly with your boat I think a conventional symmetrical general purpose rowing blade would be fine (like mine in this video).

Hi, it’s 240 cm

Does it have to be a competitive genre, or could it be just singleplayer / chill multiplayer?

@@CharlieBriggsUK no no, competitive

@@toby_cook oh no, it's been too long 🤣

Oh yes definitely. Traditional Hong Kong and Chinese boats are a great example. You could have a nice big oar on the back of a 22ft boat, maybe even lengthened further with some pvc pipe, and be in a nice comfortable rhythm rocking your whole bodyweight against it slowly