There is count fixtures in house and tables you use

Yes, the video is completely useless and does anything BUT tell you how to size a well pressure tank.

There’s is a simple answer.. just look at the charts 📈 . Come on now it’s 2023 lmao

My thoughts exactly.

Yeah I just learned about this (new to wells) and found the one at our cabin at 12 PSI and I filled it back up to 27 PSI since my switch is on at 30 PSI. Mine is the same brand he is showing and there was a big warning sticker over the valve that I had to break just to check the pressure so no one has ever tested it since 1997 when it was installed!

You weren’t missing anything because he really didn’t explain tank sizing very well at all.

He actually did explain it. Maybe didn't emphasize it as well as he could have. Once you have the drawdown amount which is the pumps Flow rate (gpm) x min run time (gpm),,,, you match your pressure tanks draw down to that number based on the pressure setting ie 30/50. The pressure tanks drawdown can be higher but not less or else you can get short cycling which causes pump stress.

So let’s assume a 10gpm pump. And a 30/50 switch. Based on the math in the video 10gpm x 1gpm runtime (6secs or 1/10min?) that gives either a 60gal expansion tank, or a 1 gal expansion tank. Which is it? The units need to be explained.

A quality electric motor can run all day. If it is moving water through the pump, there is no maximum in MOST cases. Excessive starts, not excessive run times, are what kills pump motors

Keeping my pressure switch at 40-60 now for a 80 foot deep well. I tried 30-50 and the pressure was a little low. I was think of adjusting it to 35-60 for longer less pump cycles and longer pump run time. I want to not stress the pump but also have a good capacity if power goes out

1/2 hp 120v submersible pump. About 20 years old likely

The more the pump cycles on and off the sooner it will die. A pressure tank is like a battery, it holds that pressure for a little while and when it needs more pressure the pump kicks on and recharges the pressure. Running irrigation straight off a pump can put more wear and tear on the hoses, connections, etc from that brutal beating of the force of the pump. Also don't forget a check valve to make sure your irrigation water doesn't run back down into your water supply and contaminate the whole neighborhoods aquifer. Some people fertilize with manure and that bacteria can be deadly. I was watering a bird bath at ground level since that's where the dove eat and drink at. I wondered why it kept going dry in one day. My water line was submerged in the water bowl and the water lines below it sucked the water out of the bowl.

Sounds like it. Water shouldn't come out when checking pressure.

Exactly, no mention whatsoever of tank pre charge which folks definitely need to know about.

@@stevee7774what’s tank pre charge?

@@ZPrezton - The manufacturer pre-charges these tanks with a certain amount of air pressure through a valve on top of the tank that is just like car tire valve stem. When the tank is installed the factory pre-charge needs to be adjusted to 2 psi below your pump cut in pressure. For example if your pump cuts in at 40 psi, you adjust pre- charge to 38 psi.

Yes, 1 tank per home will greatly reduce pump run time and wear and tear.

I have exactly the same issue.

Well, basically you have 4X demand as compared to a 'nomal' 1 pump & pressure tank per house setup so your pump will need to pump 4x as much water (all things being equal e.g. same number of people in each home) as a pump serving a single residence. Also, it is likely that, if everyone wakes up at teh same time . . . there will be 4X the morning use and 4x the run time each morning - lots of AM toilet flushing! In theory, the additional pressure tanks would allow for more usage before the pump cut on except that, regardless which residence woke up first, the pressure in the four-residence system would be drawn down forcing teh pump to cut on. It is likely that the pump would be running all morning when that demand was high with teeth being brushed and toilets being flushed and coffee pots being filled with water - do you enjoy hard bolied eggs for breakfast?

Pressure tanks act like batteries and hold that pressure until they run out. Having more tanks can help hold the pressure longer. It sucks to wake up with no water pressure to shower, but even if the electricity is out you can still take a shower if you have enough pressurized water stored up. Then you can shower run down to the well supply company and get what you need to keep running. And the family can get off to work and school without stinking while you fix the problem.

You say when you lose power, you lose water--do you mean immediately? And you already have a pressure tank at the well (not one of those tiny expansion tanks that sits above the water heater in your home, but an actual well pressure tank, right)? If I'm not mistaken, I think you should have a backflow preventer between your well and your pressure tank. That way, water from the pressure tank never escapes back into the well if the tank seal fails somehow. But because a pressure tank's very purpose is to create pressure in excess of what your household fixtures can use, and then to store that pressure until you need it, it should absolutely work, and you should be able to get water from your faucets for some amount of time after the power fails. The only other explanation I can think of would be that you've got a leak somewhere, and probably a pretty bad leak.

I would go for the larger tank, it ok to go bigger, but not smaller. I have a 32 , and wanted to go bigger, but then I would have to change up my lines because they would need to be moved.

Odd, I have a smaller tank than your 20 gal, and I have pressure upstairs same as outdoors and down cellar. Are you sure the tank has the right pressure and the bladder is ok?

I think, based on my experience, you could put a good sized tank with a check valve on the city water supply side, and make the pressure changes smaller. The problem is the city supply is restricted some way so when ever you draw water the pressure will fall. A tank will help but to maintain the desired pressure a pump will have to be added. Might want to check with the public works or water department and see if there is anything they could do to fix it from their side. Maybe the water meter is too small or damaged?

Your tank is bigger than mind I've had for 30 years.

If the bladder has a leak the air from the tank can gradually leak into the water lines and eventually completely out, water logging the tank

My grandparents had a pump and tank in a buried outdoor "well house" in CANADA and that thing never froze as long as one incandescent light was left running. So, basically, it will need a minor heat source and it'll be fine. VA is way warmer than Canada in the dead of winter. The bigger thing is to make sure it has ventilation. One year they forgot to open the lid a crack and it lit on fire. Amazingly enough, the FD told them that methane had built up, and when the pump switch kicked on, it made a spark and lit that sucker up.

@@Megatron995 wow we live in southside VA near the NC border and heat also worries me .His pump is in the well shaft that is around 100 ft deep .The electric bill is what he is worried about since he has electric that goes out all the time .Last year his was out almost a month .and another time 2 weeks and every little storm his electric goes out because they do not cut the back the trees off the wires

Great question. My tank is about 23 years old. I think the brand is Sta Rite. I’ve heard some bad reviews about a lot of newer tanks including these Well Xtrols that seem to be so popular now. Would love to know which ones are better quality.

mine lasted 25 years and was a Pro-Line but I'm not sure if they make them anymore.

Ha, ha! Mine has been there 24 years already and the well guy told me 6 yrs. ago that the tank would be the "next thing to go". It's only a single tank and the house is 7,000 sq. ft. and up on a knoll, so our water pressure isn't too strong. Some use double tanks for better pressure I presume. I'm sure the newer ones are designed to fail sooner - they should design them to last forever, of course.

Amtrol sells a Pro Line series of pressure tanks, but they are not cheap. Not sure if it's better to have one big tank or two small ones like I see some places.

Depending on where you live, you can go to the twp or the county and request the records for the original well install. In all that paperwork you should see mention of how deep your well is, specs on the pump itself, ect. I had the same issue and pulled the paperwork and it showed my well was about 100ft deep, and there was a 1/2 hp pump that does 10GPM. I was even able to see this was the second well pump that was put it. The original one was 16GPM and there was a smaller pressure tank in the house with that setup.

No, within reason. Larger tanks mean well pump generally works less often, which extends its life. I have a 32 gallon tank in my single family home with four bathrooms. My son has a similar (newer) home and bought an 80 gallon pressure tank. Most common for single family homes are 20 gallon units, which I think are too small. Am big advocate of 40-60 psi range (rather than 30-50). I have no clue what my well pump flow rate might be!

Less pump cycling and greater draw down capacity. (Both good.)

@@Travis12861 Ha, ha! Yeah, I figured that, but doesn't do a lot of good when the pump is at the bottom of the well. I decided not to pay a ton of money to a well service just to come out and remove the pump just so they could tell me the specifications. So, I took an educated guess at what size tank I needed. By the way, after calling a well company to get some advice on what size tank I needed, I was given some odd advice. They asked me how many people lived in the house. When I said 2, they said 30 gallon is fine. So, they did not compute the tank size by the pump flow.

No they are not

@@brucelewis6568 all new ones are pre charged to 38psi. We install about 75 of them every year. Wx202, wx203, etc

A water heater expansion tank, or thermal expansion tank, is a safety device designed to protect your household plumbing from thermal expansion. 50-gallons of cold water will (due to thermal expansion) expand to become at least 52-gallons once it's heated and the extra 2-gallons of water will no longer fit in the 50-gallon water heater tank. That's where a thermal expansion tank comes in. The capacity of a residential hot water thermal expansion tank is typically only about 2 to 4 gallons. An expansion tank only contains overflowing HOT water. It does hold ANY water for the cold water system, and it does not store water on a permanent basis. The water within the thermal expansion tank is released back into your hot water system and is probably nearly emptied the first time anyone uses any hot water. See: Everything You Need To Know About Water Heater Expansion Tanks www.waterheaterleakinginfo.com/expansion-tanks/

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

I needed a belly laugh badly, thanks

How much one of the blue Tango go for

How much the tan go fo

Isn't the tank to hold water, probably a 1/3 of the tank is water- I'm guessing

@@sjr7822 I already replaced the tank, there is very little water in tank.

I'm guessing to sell more T-packages...😆

Basically you get the flow rate of the pump / amount of outlets spewing h20. Thus the shampoo won’t be knocked out your hair from low flow rate available!!

i thought i missed it. So how do you size a tank?

@@nickmiller4745 A tank is a thing that holds air and water.

@@nickmiller4745 You didn't miss it because he never covered it

Amount of people in home or whatever the application for the water desires. But you can’t ever exceed the pump rate. After drawdown you are limited to pump output.