My five cents - My method for electrical connection/splice in pressurized water is hot melt glue filled crimp on heat shrink connectors. Have a small butane powered heat source with catalytic burner for shrinking when there is no electric power. no need for special tape around the splice. Also use jacketed stranded conductor cable for connection of well pump. I never use 2 wire pumps and always 3 wire pumps because I want the capacitor for the Permanent Split Capacitor motor of the well pump above ground! What makes the pump fail is in many cases a bad capacitor, so when it is above ground you do not have to pull out the pump from the well, just change the capacitor in the control box and you are done. A lot less labor, sure the initial investment for the one more wire down the well ads to the install cost, but in the long run I get out of 'GOULDS' pumps more than 10 years in average. Well head is always protected by stainless steel 55 Gal Barrel with lid where I cut the bottom out - and the Barrel gets grounded with a 8 ft grounding rod and connected to the ground wire at the wellhead. use only PSC motor pumps this way even direct lightning strike damages nothing on the pump since the 3 wire pump down in the well has MOV's. Of course in a competitive marketplace with homeowners on a budget doing it my way may price you out of the market. But you may consider offering this version as an alternative if durability is asked for. Also use a power sensing timer swi9tch at the control box so the pump never runs dry. The moment the low yielding well is pumped out the pump stops and waits a preset time before it restarts. The control box for the 3 wire pump even gets a run capacitor for the PSC motor added. Doing all this gets a lot more mileage out of an install and when lightening strikes you still have running water.

Just want to wish you contd. success your down to earth attitude and knowledge is very helpful and easy for this ole country boy to comprehend as well preform , granted the task of pulling the 110’ submersible pump by hand was quite daunting ,luckily my son-in-law was available as we successfully accomplished the job ! Gotta say it felt good to save the $$$$ by doing this ourselves , felt even better as a 67 year old dog learning a new trick 😉 Again …. Thanks & God Bless

Tech tip for when you finish your tape job it a zip tie so the end will never peel off. I’d use this technique for the water proof connections.

Thank you for making these videos I enjoy learning this

Great video and lots of information about how you do things 👍.

I appreciate watching true professionals doing their jobs.

Going to your fracking videos right now and I Sunscribed!

Good vid. I'd like to ad my 2 cents though on the electrical connections. I have been using waterproof heat shrink connectors in the marine business for years. Just crimp and heat shrink with a heat gun small torch. You could of course still add the tape afterwards but not really necessary.

I'm in north Texas and 550-600 ft wells with pumps at 400-440 ft down use pvc pipe. My original pump that supplies house and watered horses and cattle lasted 22 yrs and my well has some silt. Replacement is filling a 1000 gallon tank and a 3/4 hp shallow well pump now is my system. The gpm is 30 instead of 6-7. The 3/4 pump is 2 ft below tank bottom and overdoes its 27 gpm as a result. Water trough filling is wonderful now.

I like the way you wrap tape every 2 feet. I have had pump people do it every 10+ feet and when then owner wants me to do a specific capacity drawdown test to see what their well can produce. when I lower my sounder down the well if you don't put you tape close together the transducer can slip between the wire and the pipe then when you retrieve it, it can hang up and get stuck and be a problem to get out. I have had to pull the pump a few time to retrieve the transducer. Keep using a lot of tape. I wish you set all of the pumps in wells I have worked on, but maybe you wouldn't like to we have to set our pittless adaptors around 7-7.5 feet.

I enjoy watching you work, doing it the right way. I would hire you immediately just from what I have seen so far. But one thing scared the heck out of me. When I saw you hold a hot wire in each hand and plug them into that socket, I cringed. At the very least, just plug the first one in and let it go, then the second one to test. But the safest, and a pretty easy way to do it is put a 230 volt disconnect before your socket. Then you can plug them both in, and turn on the power safely without you touching anything. Stay safe, sir.

its a big help man..... thanks for posting this

Wealth of knowledge thank you for sharing

The boatyards has the same thing in liquid form good stuff

As I observed, you made a better choice which is crimping the cable extension to pump. It is better than splicing the cable together. However, joint splicing at the same length is not good and ideal? Although, the use of rubber insulation tape is okay, why not make the splicing in different length? In general, you made a good job.

Amazing video ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

Great video

Thanks

I have 3 wells at my farm pumping into 2 3000 gallon water tanks, so no head pressure other than the well depth. In the heat of the summer i need all 3 wells at peak performance to supply my farm. 2 wells are 500' and 1 is 700' all 1.5hp F&W with control boxs. Recently the 700' well seems to be over pumping itself. It was rated at 7gpm but has always produced around 9gpm and never had an issue for 8 years now. It seems to be running out of water and it will trip the pump protection device. I pinched the outlet valve down to 4.5 gpm and it will run there without tripping. So i guess that one is running out of water. The one that i want your opinion on is the 500' well and i believe it has a 15gpm pump set at around 380' It was rated at 15gpm but has never been able to produce that much. Maybe 8 or 10gpm consistently. This week it was down to 1.5 to 2gpm. I checked the amps and both legs are between 9.6 and 9.8 so i dont think its running out of water or the pump is worn out or the amps would be much lower correct? Your video made me think that it could have a crack in the pipe. Schedule 140 pvc 1.250" but it would have to be in the casing because there is no sediment coming out of the pipe. The thing is that after 4 days of 1.5 to 2 gpm its now putting out 6gpm. I could use a little help. Any ideas? Thank in advance, J

To be even more of a perfectionist, you could stagger your wire splices. It might not make much of a difference, but it would sure be cool looking.

Yep I'm definitely going to get in trouble with my well guy lolol

My Well Details: Elevation:320' Well Depth 266' with 4" casing and changes to 2" casing at about 110-120' for the remainder of the 266'. The pump Intake is at 105 feet Water Level 55-60 Feet right now I have a Hallmark Industries MA0459X-14A Deep Well Pump, 3" (3.3 Max), 3/4 HP, 230V/60Hz/1Ph, 14 Stage, 270' Head Max, 13 GPM Max, 1"Npt. I have it set a 40/60 PSI and a cycle stop valve set at 58psi. I am looking to increase my volume of water and was told I should look at a 2HP pump if that is what I want. Guidance on sizing a pump for more water volume and same or better PSI would be great.

Thanks!

Excellent video, thanks for making this info available to the average Joe! Was wondering, could you use heat shrink tubes (with adhesive lining - it melts around the wires as you apply the heatgun) around the wire connections instead of the water proofing tape, or both? Personally I just wouldn't trust that water proofing tape alone.

Hi sir, very educating Video! May I ask what is the best PSI for a 1hp, 7GPM at 150ft?

Awww...shucks, that ain't nothin'! Out here in West Texas we have wells that go down 600, 700...even 900 feet (deepest I've heard of anyone nearby having one is 1150 feet). You get to pushing THAT MUCH water, you have to 'multi-stage' your deep well pumps...multiple breakers, serious piping, relief valves...almost like 'drilling for oil'...friggin' Permian Basin wierdness! Great video, though...good explanation for 'sane depths'.

By the way, R.C. Worst (a company out of Washington state) offers some great guidance on drop pipe. In order of pressure, the poly pipe they consider 'lightest duty' with 'most-headache' for anything other than shallow wells...they won't begin to recommend it for anything deeper than 100-feet. Next-strongest, PVC (Schd. 120)...they recommend for wells up to 520-feet (1-inch dia), and also relatively easy to assemble if you use a simple hold-jig, as you drop it. Lastly, for 'ultra-deep wells', there's galvanized steel drop pipe...which is rated to many-thousands of feet. I kept looking at that poly you were working with, and couldn't put my finger on it at first...but I've never seen poly used locally...and even when I lived 'back east', never remembered seeing a well deeper than 100-125' that had a poly drop pipe...once you pass that point, they were always galvanized steel (good for 15-20 years down-hole). I know you're just going on that SIDR 7 rating of 250-psi, divided by the 'every 33 feet is 14.7 psi' value...but a lot of 'deep well' guys will tell you, it will not stand up. Just an FYI.

I'm in Zimbabwe so this might sound backwards but we always use wire splicing kits with resin on submersible pump connections. I cannot believe that a bit of rubber tape will stop water ingres, especially at depth, other than that our processes are exactly the same, exept we only use galvanised pipe down our holes & always use a safety cable🤔...have to use shear legs to lift them, impossible to lift by hand!...thanks for educating me, love your videos!...come visit Zimbabwe sometime, it's a beautiful place!

They do sell waterproof shrink tubing. Much better than using that rubberized tape which can fail over time

subbed! also want to thank you for your nice video's. both wells on my ranch dried up. the one "good" well, that used to put out like 5-8 gpm at 280 ft, finally started sucking water and the pumpsaver didn't work and pump kinda stopped working. i had them pull the 4 1/2" casing and deepened it. static water was at 109' per sounder but i have my doubts how long it takes to get to 109'. i would figure more of a 250' ish working static level. before they started deepening at 280' it was doing about 3/4 gpm. they hit 2 gpm at 340' and it stayed that way down to 580' where they hit hard blue/red granite so we stopped. put 4.5" pvc casing down to 580'. i figure to set pump at 570'. was planning on using 1' sch120 pvc with stainless couplings and 3 check valves. i figure about 470' of water in well so let's say 900 gallons that refills at 2 gpm from 340' and refills at 3/4 gpm higher up. all i need the pump to do is fill up my 2500 gallon black water tank,,,, the jet pump takes over from there to supply house and barn. there is a warwick switch system for controlling water level in black tank that turns subermisble on and off. i was thinking a 1 hp franklin motor with a 5 gpm pump. what do you think? the problem is the 5 gpm pump will out pump the well if black tank is really low. so i either need to change switch level or use timer for pump. thanks for any insight.

Is there such thing as a 'helper pump' that would assist the deeper pump since this well is so deep? One placed inline 1/3rd the way down? as the deep pump gets it almost to the top, the last bit is augmented by the other pump? Yes, this would take 2 power sources and maybe add a little complexity but is this a thing? I understand this video is a little old but thanks for your time and videos explaining things so well!

I enjoy your videos. I have a 4.5” diameter well that is 1100 ft deep. I would like to put a pump at 520 feet. Which pump do you recommend?

Thanks for the information, I am using pump which has outlet 1.5 inch and 11 galllans per minute what size drop pipe i will need

Great content. Question- my well doesn’t produce enough so I am installing a holding tank in my basement. Static level 21 ft, well depth 42 ft. I know I just need a 1/2 hp pump but since I’ll be putting a 3 gpm flow control valve does it matter what the gpm is for the pump? Do I need a control box with a 3 wire pump to control the pump with a float valve?

Can you do a video on the materials you use? Like where to get the fitting’s and sizes you use.

It's interesting that you bench-rest the unit before installation. You do that dry? Just for a moment? Roughly what percentage of the pumps you bench-test are defective? I helped install a pump some years ago, deep, and it was defective. What a major headache it was to pull it and replace with another.

I had a well drilled about 13 years ago, they installed devices about every 7 to 8 feet along the drop pipe "I believe that is what you call it" to prevent the wire and drop pipe from coming in contact with the walls of the well and casing. I notice you don't do that. it appears that it would help but I am not a well expert but I have known wells that have had the same pump and drop pipe for 30 plus years.

Couple of questions. You used screw type of clamps on the hose barb at the pump. Why don't you a bandit type of clamp instead? I might of missed something did you or do you use a stainless cable to support the weight of the pump and pipe to take the load off of the pipe joint at the hose barb?

I was searching for the Simmons brass check valve, I only found the female ends type. Would like to find the one you used in this video, the male thread on the pump side to female threads to the adapter. Do you have a link to buy that part? Greatly appreciated and thank you for great informative videos! Your a big help to all

I have a 2 inch well with a dual stage jet pump. I'm considering going with a 2 inch submersible. It's a 63 ft well. It is at a Florida vacation home and has to be primed with 5 gallons of water every time I visit. What are your thoughts? Thank You! Love the channel.

Hi. Did you use Teflon tape on your check valve connect?

I have heard the poly pipe will stretch about 1% over time from the weight of the water and pump. It's hard to believe that it would stretch one foot per hundred foot. If it does that would make the wire extremely tight.

Another excellent video. Thanks. Question: does adding a second check valve on the pump increase the odds of a failure years down the line?

Hey what’s up man love your videos your spreading knowledge and the people appreciate it 👍🏾. What’s your thought on solar well pumps ? Have you ever installed one? I’m in Cali with plenty of sun and want to stay off grid. Thanks in advance

What kind of pump would you use if you where drawing water from a brook and it’s about 30’ uphill ?

Man am I glad I found your channel. You've actually saved my life. I am currently in the need to replace my deep well pump (345 feet). I have confidence now after watching a ton of your videos. I just have a few questions, if you have the time to answer. As stated above, my "well info plate" states that my well is at 345 feet. Casing depth is 58 feet and 6 inch in diameter. No static water level info is provided on the plate. It states that the yield is 20 GPM. I've counted all my fixtures (sinks, tubs, toilets, outside faucets, dishwasher, and washing machine) and have a total of 19. With the above information, would it be possible for you to recommend a proper size well pump and pressure tank? I was thinking of up sizing my pressure tank in the 30 - 45 gallon range. I'm limited by height in my well enclosure to 46 1/4" so i'm still researching the right tank. Any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated. I'm located in the mountains of western NC. Thanks

Hello, what size/brand is this pump. I am about to replace a pump. My well and depth are the same as this well. Also my water has never cleared up since it was drilled and my pump has died because it has been working in incredibly silty/clay contaminated water. Any suggestions on a brand of pump that can handle dirty water better than others? Thank you so much for your time. Great channel!

Would love to see one of these disassembled, when I think of a 1hp motor I think of a baldor type induction motor, (far larger than these) I'm curious to know how they fit 1hp of motor into a 3" or 4" diameter.

What size of black hose do you usually use for the well that type of well?

2 questions, 1 do you ever recommend removing the plastic check in the pump, 2 do you ever add an additional check up the line?

That well is for sure deep 50 feet here in Ireland would be considered deep

Hi, Are the Motors type ie the same manufacture on both these pumps? or do you have a preference type that you like to use

Do you think the blue tape is better than heat shrinkable tubing? Thank.

Are there any solar powered pumps with an additional manual function? I’m looking for one that I could still operate manually if the solar function failed

I pulled my well pump due to no water once. I then hooked it up and it jumped just like yours did on the bench, then I dropped it back down. It still didnt work because the coupler between the motor and pump broke. Good thing it's only 50ft down.

You should always let the tap relax and then cut with a knife. It will start peeling back pulling it until it snaps every single time.

I really like watching you work, you make everything look very easy I hope you can help me, my well pump went out, my well is 30' away from my house a 60psi and 400,head and with all these lying websites I don't know what pump to buy could you recommend me a pump and where to buy it from I greatly appreciated

How about adding a torque arrestor so that the wires don't rub on the well walls. Also good luck doing what you do in Ontario Canada.

Do they make a pump like your using for like a 10 inch discharge, the well casing is either 12 or 14 with a 10 inch discharge??

I thought you have to put a torque arrestor near the pump. Is it not always needed?

I have PCV well piping, I need a new pump. Should I convert to rubber flex hose? The well is 300 feet down.My old pump was installed in 2001. It was a 2 hp pump. What he should be running?

What brand of electrical tape do you use. I have found a LOT of quality variation in different electrical tapes

What are the specs on the different wire I have seen you use. Is it an outdoor wire and what size and jacket type ???

I have a franklin submersible pump model 15HR22x9-s2 cant find anything on it when i look it up. I was wandering if you could tell me any information on it my looking at my model number? Thanks

How much watt, volt and amps is pump using and what size wire mm2 are you using?

Is it okay to install a deeper (400ft) well pump in a 200ft well? Any damages to the water system, external water storage tank ?

Yours not bad.

Ok

can I switch my old 1970s jet pump for a submersible pump? 2" bore , 60 ft deep?

They sell heat shrink wire splice tubes. Crimp, heat and then a silicone oozes out when heat is applied. The job he did in this video took no short cuts and was done correctly IMHO.

that rubberized tape will make a water resistent seal and last 20++ years in water? I would have thought something more substantial to seal wires. Thanks

franklin electric ‘little giant” 4 in submersible well pump.Model is: W8G05S9-32S can you tell me if this pump is a good pump?

Great video , Have you ever used a submersible pump in a lake say for a cottage etc. If so what pump would you recommend (I'm in Canada if that makes a diff). I've seen you video on Amazon Hallmark pumps so I've written those off. Cheers

I was wondering I have a 400 ft well stagnant water level is at 190 I had a pump in there from 10 years ago I just need to know what size how many horsepower how many RPMs do I need

I read that pump says 230 volt with 3-wires. Normally 3 wires means two hots and neutral. Is it different for these pumps? If its 230 volts, doesn't that require dual breakers? Confused

My Franklin 1 hp 230v submersible pump is 40 feet down the well and has a pvc check after it exits the well right before the pressure tank. A faucet is installed on top of the well head and only works when the pump is running because the check valve is preventing the pressure tank to get to the facet when it’s not on. Can I remove this pvc check valve? Or does the submersible require it. Thanks

Hello, thank you for making these videos!! I have a 400ft well and would like to install the vevor 3hp 230v 37gpm 640ft to head pump but noticed you said lower gpm is better for deeper wells and I'd like to put it at 380ft like the well in the video. Do you think this pump will work? The hydrant will be just 4-6ft from the well head. Also I was planning to use 10 or 12ga wire and 160psi pipe, is this the correct choice? The pump will be run off a generator a couple times a year at a recreational property.

No "torque boots?" Was that black electrical tape you wrapped the line with?

I have a Radon Bubbler, I replaced pump and now it gets pressure and slowly decreases and cycles to gain pressure any Ideas?

In the Past We Used Above pump motor now is submersible , why can i used above pump i am in florida ?

So I live in California, about 50 miles from Fresno. My question is why do the local well companies use galvanized rigid pipe for the pump discharge? Why are they not using plastic here???

Hello, thanks for all your informative videos. I am new to wells but we recently purchased a property with a 205' well, 157' to water-no pump, just 6'' casing. I recently had it inspected and they used a 20 gpm 1 hp pump, pump test depth was 180'. The flow was 15 gpm, static held at 165' for one hour. Flow test yielded over 900 gallons. First question, how would you intemperate this report? Second, what setup would you recommend for a no pressure system, running off a generator? Mainly the size and brand of pump, depth, hose, cap and above ground. I plan to fill a non pressurized tank in the summer and would also like be able remove the faucet and cap it in the winter- If that is even possible.. Thanks again, keep up the good work.

Can you tell me how much horse power I need for a 1000’ well

Hi ! Gr8 Video ! And I have a Question.... My artesien well is about 350 deep... and I need to replace the pump.... So, is a Franklin 1HP 10 GPM a Good replacement? Thanks! :)

As my only talent is to admire the talents of others I have a question, I want to buy a water pump to send it to my home town, but we don't have wells there, we only have small streams, and small ponds like the size of a small pool, and I want to pump water 500 feet uphill where my cabin is, which water pump do I have to buy? thank you so much

which brand is it ?

How do you precheck a 3 wire pump? Which wires should you touch to power to see if it spins?

1:43 can we get this guy that quik connect thing that bigclive uses to test devices that use live lose wires?

my well over 400 ft deep has a 1hp pentair pump 3/4 could not push enough water when well was done so he had to replace it .

How much solar is required

This was very informative, but you skipped that "installing!" I have a 500' well, and would like to see how such a long pump/pipe is actually lowered. Basically, I'm really worried the whole mess will run away from me and crash to the bottom....

Great video! I had a few questions. The pipe is one inch poly 160psi? You installed a 3/4 HP 5gpm pump?

Why don't you use heat shrinks like most well drillers here in the northeast? I have never had a heat shrink fail in 40 years.

What kind of wire is that?

What would you recommend for pump size, pipe size and at what level I should set the pump for a well that is drilled to 400 ft water level is at 320 ft Yield 15 gpm with 0 ft drawdown after .5hours

What pump would you suggest for a 4" 2hp 3 wire and best place to purchase? Well is 125 feet deep. Thank you your videos they are very helpful

I have a deep well that is 80 feet deep. At 70 feet I got 15 gallons a minute when the driller hit water. I have a few questions for you. 1st what size pump do I need as far as horse power with a 220 volt feed? 2nd do I need a Brass check valve in the water line and should it be placed on the top of the pumps threads? I will use 1 inch black plastic pipe the kind you have recommended in other videos of SIDR-9 200 PSI. 3rd my cabin has plastic water pipe installed 35 years ago that are glued with PVC cement fittings. What should the water pressure PSI be for the hi low limit switch 20 40 or 30 to 50 as well as a Low water cut off on the switch so IF there is low water the pump does not constantly run and burn itself out. 4th the pressure tank 36 gallon or 20 gallon?

I seen a few vids of deep well pumps going bad and have electrical tape in the intake. Is there is better thing to use for wrapping the wires that will not degrade and get sucked into the pump?

Aren't you supposed to use those rubber bumper boots so the pipe doesn't bang around everytime the pump comes on?

If you go with 1 Hp and 5 gallons per Minute,would it Make a Diferece on PerformancePoint O What You can Tell Me . Thanks For Your videos And I'm new in Your channel