Yes he did

Hey, that was the highlight of the video. That was a good piece of driving by the gravel truck driver.

Thanks

Yes I agree that is the way my house is built footer to rafters icf thanks for watching

@@DirtPerfect did you do your all in one pour? What are the cost of your build compared to traditional stick frame from the basement up?

@@jamesrobertgrimes For sure it is cheaper and won't burn and be a haven for termites saving a lot of money.

Kenny Mysak Did your buddy use a traditional roof or concrete?

@@inmyimage1081 set rafters and put on a steel sheeting

Your welcome thanks for watching 49x34.5

Hope this helped

Look around, lots of helpful videos from both users and the makers of ICF, check out BuildBlock's channel as one guy who works there posts something once a week, be it adhesive or design work that icf can do despite what certain expert engineers say.

Thanks and yes I agree 😁

I agree a clear work site is safer and easier to move around and very little clean up at the end.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks appreciate that 😂

Awesome and yes your correct

No problem thanks for watching

Thanks so much for the kind words and I agree they have awesome foam

Thanks and good luck

I saw you say the great stuff foam isn't the best. what do you recommend?

Good deal thanks for watching

👍 thanks for watching

Thanks buddy

Appreciate the feedback

Good deal thanks foe the feedback and watching 😁

Yup nice place and thanks

Thais hope to visit there one day soon

Thanks

Thanks buddy how was the eye contact with camera 😜

@@DirtPerfect like a pro! Now I gotta train Wade. Haha

Have used them once not bad but like my nudura Thanks for watching

Nice 😁

In the last 8 years since i started watching more YT videos, I notice more and more posting ICD Basement or whole house or no basement but just as an addition. Just have to wander around the search list using "ICF house/home" or "ICF basement"

Lol oh no 🤦‍♂️ and thanks

Thanks Doug how did you like the drone shot over the water tower

@@DirtPerfect The drone footage always gives a better perspective of the job site. It's good someone with skills was flying the drone because I would have knocked a hole in the side of the water tower. Lol.

@@williammatthews2948 I would have clipped the antenna on top of the water tower.

@@DirtPerfect YES, well done!

@@DirtPerfect Awesome drone pilot work there Mike! A great shot to close out a great video. Keep up the good work, be safe.

Thanks

Awesome glade it helped

Good deal

Thank you

Lol joe thanks

Thanks

Thanks

Yup they are nice been doing it for about 12 years around here

Thanks for watching as always berry

Structure wise yes, but finishing takes up some added time .. hehehe

Cool would at-least look into it thanks for watching

Welcome Tyler and thanks for the sub Have used fox blocks several times over the years nice product but feel I can do a better job faster with nudura

Thanks

Welcome to the channel and thanks 😁

Thanks

Good deal and yes poured walls are much better

@@DirtPerfect no doubt !!!

As a 'retired' basement waterproofer I can tell you that CMU are the worst to use in a basement, they retain water like a reservoir and you would never know until you notice leaking and then drill the base in the middle of each pocket/hole space.

@@Joshua79C that's exactly why I didn't want them. He was trying to take the cheap easy way out! ...some say I overbuilt our home and I may have but it's what I wwnted. If the Lord see fit to allow let long life it's a house I'll have for many years !

@@jasonking2943 I did read all your first comment, I am gad you caught them trying to pay the cheap way just so they could make a bigger paycheck in their own pocket. I hope you also watched when the waterproofing was installed.

Good deal thanks for watching

Thanks

Thanks and welcome to the channel working on website now hope to have up soon

Lol thanks

Interesting will check it out thanks

Mike, the flexible discharge Waterhouse (4”) can be adapted to the concrete pump discharge boom, and lowered into the block wall to the proper depth allowing the concrete to be poured close to the surface of the foundation, and raised 4’ each time you make the next go-around pour. We also have poured the footer and then set the first row of blocks directly into it, squared it up and let it set over night. When you get to the top of the wall, any variance in height can simply be shaved off to level. Simpson makes a “sill tie” that actually wraps around your sill plate, and is embedded into the concrete. Put these into the top of the pour at the required coding distance. If there’s a engineered flooring system at the top of the wall, you can set the hangers into the blocks and pour them in, then install the wood floor joists, thus locking the walls in place. Make certain that you install a French Drain system at the exterior base of the wall system. Thx for the great videos. Makes me want to get back into the business. Would love to build one with you just for the thrill of doing it again. There are lot’s of little tricks to make your job faster and less expensive for you. Good luck. My home was 3450 sq ft with 12’ ceilings and 36% glass exterior walls. I had one 3.5 ton A/C/heat pump combo. My average utility bill was $72 a month and we were all electric (no natural gas in our area at the time). I had 2 vent free propane fire places and they used $15 of gas a year. My Suburban Propane guy wouldn’t lease me the equipment because I didn’t use enough to justify him renting it to me.

@@stephentaylor9366 Did you see the previous video? The french drain is incorporated into the actual formwork for foundation.

Cassette Walkman Stephen Taylor here. I did not. But I thought with your experience you must have been doing this. In another video, a guy builds his French drain like a leech bed for a septic system using only rocks to prevent clogging by mud and other material over the years. That combined with a porous pipe would perhaps be best. Don’t know if it’s worth the money and time though in many instances?

Thanks josh

If you do need some good help glade you enjoy the videos 😁

Lol good deal

Thanks for the sub and I would. It call cost a negative it will pay for it self over time but to answer your ? Kinda depends on floor plan and you location thanks for watching

Hard to compare but similar

Nudura is awesome have seen that system but have not used

Yes but just on this brand of block

Thanks it varies depending on plans but around 10%

And compared to traditional formwork it saves on not having to pay for renting forms and the time to install and then remove them. Takes less time to use ICF than it does to use formwork or blocks and as a retired waterproofing pro it still needs such tech for drainage and the wall itself, but wont leak or retain water like all those cheap CMU blocks do.

No we have not

Do some research on them many benefits to using them

😁

Lol thanks for watching glade you learned something 😁

Only bracing on the inside with these, as long as you got an inward bow as shown in the flying shots, the braces will push out the wall in order to have straight and plumb walls once all is set if everything was aligned properly when poured. Even above grade its only braced from the inside, the webs provide the outside bracing.

@@Joshua79C hey thanks for the explanation I appreciate it.👊

It can be done and Electirc chain saw or hot knife

Thanks and welcome to the channel southern Indiana

Top course

Yup

Thanks and southern Indiana

@@DirtPerfect Yep, I figured it was Southern Indiana what with that "Southern" accent and all. Personally, we are down in South Alabama near the coast, really enjoying my ICF home since 2006. I sprayed foam up in the walk-in attic on the backside of the decking (I keep a chocolate Easter Bunny up there for comedic effect when showing visitors the house) and carefully positioned my home facing North-South with the main exposures to limit solar heat gain in the summertime and placed porches on the North and South exposures and no glass on the Eastside and only two small horizontal windows on the Westside. I only need a 2-ton unit to cool the 2000 square feet living space and I use a wood stove in the "winter" time (all 6 weeks of it). My HVAC power bill was only $160 for all of last year. ICF is the new standard to compare all modern construction. We have a Middle School nearby that is all ICF, (Escambia Co. FL)

Awesome and I have heard of them blocks before

We have done a few of those no problems what type of block is it

ECO Block. Did it about 8 years ago. Bought it right from the concrete plant.

We bought form are distributor years ago for 110 a brace

ALl ICF "block" type forms go together pretty much alike. except Quad Lock which comes only in KnockDown form so assembly is required as you build up and KD form are the most versatile IMO..

Yes does not affect it

No. It really

Love it

We put icfs basements under our log homes that we build.

Home made rebar pins should have covered it sorry you will see them in the next video

lol never 😜

@@DirtPerfect Just tell everyone my track, my rules. Lol.

@@DirtPerfect I own the track therefore I win.

No # 10 roofing screws

No not many problems around here

The web in the block

as they said the web, but also proper pouring at 2 to 4 foot at a time also helps prevent blowouts

You should be able to pour way more than 2-4 feet at a time. Local cement plants charge $1000 for the pump truck to show up. You should be able to get an entire house poured in 2-3 different pours.

@@90TBDWhat they mean by 2-4 feet at at a time is going all the way around the foundation in a 'lift' of 2-4 feet, then continue around again with another 'lift'. Continue like that until the pour is finished, all in the same day with just one pump charge.

@@calvinjutila8270 after I wrote my response, I was wondering if that's what you meant. Definitely can only bite off so much at a time. Cheers!

Ok

Pita, must be a union guy...

Absolutely no comparison completely different have podcast about it on my other channel

No

This does triple duty, as a form it goes up and does not need to come down and thus saves time in rental costs for traditional formwork and as a insulator it also saves time in that aspect as well when it comes to finishing the interior. Still requires waterproofing stick and peel and dimple board to guard against water pressure and leaks. Take it from me as a 6 year experienced pro of basement waterproofing and having to deal with all sorts of basement structures except ICF as I worked from 1995 to 2002 (seasonally for my step-dad who owned and operated his own business). Wish I knew about these then.

About 10% more well worth the money it you ask me thanks for watching

Not on this one but have a video coming in a bout a week with that in it

@@DirtPerfect Sounds great, looking forward to the next video and many thanks

Put in what the plumber asked me to do 🤷‍♂️

IMO: From my own experience waterpoofing said CMU and solid exposed monolith concrete, them CMU sure retain water like a reservoir and total crap IMO, but a good deal with those with small budgets as long as they are smart enough to drill a hole in the middle of voids in each block at the base to allow water to flow out and into a baseboard system carrying it to a pump well. But unlike monolith the CMU also have more prevalent noticeable cracking from settling, easy enough epoxy bond and tape fix. Prefab is really nice but no nearly as budget friendly as ICF which acts as form from the start which once installed does not need removing and thus saves time compared to traditional formwork which also incurs a rental cost from before start of install to removal. Have worked on one basement using such where the joints literally cracked open, all the waterproofing me and the other guys in my dads business did wound up being for not due to that fact, it was a basement for a "church" to go up atop from what my step dad told me then.. ICF is only like 10 to 15 bucks a block, and depending on cost of CMU in the area one is building it can be less than or 10% more than using CMU blocks, and less than formwork style. and a thicker wall than what precast may offer in the area as well which is only insulated on the inside by a minimum of 2 inches at most. Concrete itself also varies from region to region.

Thanks check out my web site Simon and Harris homebuilders

@@DirtPerfect these things have intrigued me. Are you planning on taking us each step of the way through this build? Not asking for trade secrets but just so many questions I like to ask.

1st been there done that not a big fan of that method 🤷‍♂️ 2nd we from time to time don’t find it necessary in smaller simple jobs Thanks for watching

@@DirtPerfect Did you use the plastic leveling feet? I am not a fan of that either.. Before that was an option we did and still do use stakes and 2x4 for the top of the footer, place the bag inside.. than install hat channel to support the ICF. Once we get the first two rows on and tied together we pull up the sides of the fabric to complete the footer shape going over the hat channel and secure the fabric to the ICF with some L shaped metal channel screwing into the hatchannel and the ICF... We have poured 5-6 rows with the footer before,, Just need to make 2 or 3 passes with the pump truck,, and make sure you have a guy lightly kicking the air bubble out of the footer... Make sure you pin the fabric down to the ground where one piece meets another.. so the concrete can't get in between the layers.. I usually just use reinforcing mesh to make C shaped clips you can staple the bag to the ground,, I also usually use the mesh to make the baskets for the rebar.. to tie everything together... Sucks paying for the pumper truck twice or repeat delivery charges... But like always depends on the footer.. But we have done the foundation of a mid size church like that,, which was a rather long pour.. lol... as soon as the corners are poured we usually have the skid steer guy full in the outside corners, as this is always the most critical area with a failure can happen...

And no vibrator... It destroys ICF's and rips them apart... my experience with this method is 20+ large jobs over the last 20 years...

300 jobs over 15 years and three international awards at world of concrete I agree 😁

@@DirtPerfect mind explaining what you didn't like? not arguing just curious as I've never used the bag, but have done plenty of traditional footers. my thoughts are you could save on a pump truck and the # of pour days and cold joints. but not sure I'm a fan of floating a wall above a bag either and maybe the pump cost VS simplicity is better spent than labor on setting up a floating wall.

Yes it is for sure and no not yet 😬🤞

Great for not losing a wall! Probably never will if you haven't lost one yet!!!

Hope not have poured over 300 🤞

Dirt Perfect 👍👍👍

It's the only way to go. I'm baffled by people who only do basements this way. Why not go all the way to the roof?

Layed next to it held by web in block

@marcus dixson That was kind of my wonder. In my area, on non-code foundations the verts can be stabbed in during the footing pour, code areas they have to be tied in to the footing iron in any of 3 or 4 ways, depending on how the footing/wall is constructed. But ICF or conventional, anything we've done is always tied in to the footing rebar. If doing tall walls, you tie in short verts of 4' or so, then tie in the longer verts using the diameter x 50 formula for lap length prior to setting ICF blocks or wall panels. So the shorter verts have to be of sufficient length to make the math work for how big of rebar is speced and how tall the wall is. It does make setting ICFs a PITA, especially on tall walls, but code is code. I do live in a seismically active area, so the rules are probably different than the area in the vid. If I would have an inspector show up to our ICFs without tie-wire and footing secured rebar, he wouldn't even bother walking the whole perimeter - we'd be tearing it apart, footings and all. But that's why its interesting to look at how things are done in different areas.

We bridge the footer from the basement will go dirt and this one will drain to daylight

Hope that answers you ?

@@DirtPerfect yes thanks

Yes built in

@@DirtPerfect Built in? We are a Nudura Installer as well and we use the form locks which we install last after rebar goes in. ie blocks clips rebar formlocks new row of blocks

Lol welcome

Get ahold of Holdfast technology

Thanks for the info.

Around here it’s about 10% more but you save that in energy cost in a few years. I have a older video on upper level pour get time check it out are check out my website Simon and Harris home builders. My house is built that way and love it. Don’t think I can do the hole job but would be willing to come over and help the contractor if is is open to it

My house is ICF, purchased it over building it.. Anyways I can confirm Dirt Perfect is correct my heating bill last month december was $93 for the gas bill. 2000sq foot rambler in WA state. Granted that includes heating water, and the stove but those are epic small loads. I keep my home at 71 24/7 with radiant heating floor. I'm tempted to build my shop with them.