Thanks Garrett. Got a few more vids coming in the next couple months.

Thanks mate. Glad you enjoy them.

Thanks Jared. I'm working on a few new upgrades now so expect new videos in the coming few months.

Great to hear Michael.

Thanks mate. Good to hear I made the right choice. There are way too many products to choose from.

Thanks Jody, will do.

Will have to look again at my rubbers. They're getting a little powdery on the outside.

Thanks Samuel. Glad you've gotten value from my vids.

Thanks. I've never thought of that. I wonder if it would actually work?

Similar shape to a punt, so no reason why not. Probably need to have a motor mount to replace the rear door and give a bit more free-board though.

Carlos Don,t do it badly, do it well Ha Ha, Good Luck.

Hoping to head off early 2018 on the next big lap

Thanks John. I'm sure Scotland would have its own unique challenges. I'm glad I live in my sunburnt country... just minus the occasional offshore cyclone.

Roaming The Outback Yes indeed, lot to be said for the hot climate. I've gone down the road of galvanising and powder coating as much as possible, wax oil is also great but very messy to apply. Shame Land Rover U.K. didn't take note of how you guys built your Perentie Land Rovers for the military, now that's a Land Rover.

Thanks Pavle. Sounds like you have some unique issues where you're from. In the North of Australia ice is never an issue.

@@RoamingTheOutback The mountains that I used to visit through many years are known by extremely strong winds (up to 240 km/hour) especially during long winters. The snow height can be even over 3 meters ... the frost and ice is what is worse for the batteries especially if I had to leave the truck somewhere to wait for me few days to return from hiking. Despite that all my old 88 (1971), the favorite one, never left me there although it was n/a diesel fuel that can freeze. Since 1996 till today I own 110 (19J-1989) that I decided to leave to my younger son hopping him to follow my steps ... thou on the way that he has to decide himself. I guess you understand me well. Last year he started visiting the mountains and I was quite aware of the risks he has to pass through to get his first experience needed. He entered into some troubles that were really expected as he decided to travel this time last year just when snow storms started ... It wasn't easy for all of us waiting few nights for the message to come from him and a friend whom he asked to join the trip. There is no mobile phone signal in those mountains ... here are some details about that adventure: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jKx2e9KTpsCld2Q.html take a time and check these links if you wish. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pdGZaZV-3NXPg3k.html There are more on my lists here. Thanks.

You're welcome mate. Just check through the comments for other recommendations too to see if there's something more fitting for your desired purpose.

What about dust ingress? I've replaced all door seals, sealed holes in under seat boxes, have new air vents seals and still my defender gets dirty inside. Any tips ?

The only way I can think is to creative positive pressure in the cabin to keep the dust outside ie. air conditioner or blower. I had much the same issue while travelling despite filling in most of the gaps. Carry a dustpan and brush like I do. ;-)

Thanks Ashley. I did look around for that but it doesn't appear to be available in Australia.

That's a shame, I guess you could get it shipped from Europe, good videos by the way, and good advice, even though the UK has limited "off road travelling" at the moment the moors, and a trip around Scotland are good enough road trips, and when I am done exploring all the remote UK regions perhaps I'll go over the channel to France, Spain and Morocco.....

www.ebay.com.au/itm/CAPTAIN-TOLLEYS-CREEPING-CRACK-CURE-GRP-PLASTIC-LIQUID-REPAIR-SEALANT-/151166331274

Do you have a link? Google returned no results that I could see.

Thanks mate.. Guess i'll find out in a few years how well it stands the test of time.

Thanks mate. Sounds like Selley's might be a good choice for those with a roof colour other than white.

No mate outside. Showers didn't impact curing. The outside cures within a day or two. It's just the deeper stuff that takes longer to cure.

No, drain holes still there

Sorry don't know any of the others, but read through all the comments. May be some advice there.

That would be awesome.

I believe there is a retailer in Oz as well. Best modification I ever made to my Defender, and it's perfectly possible to self-install it.

If the original was still in good condition then probably no need to remove.. I just removed in the places it had cracked or peeled off letting the new sealant take its place. no leaks to date. No harm doing it all fresh I should think.

Thanks, darn I should have watched the video more carefully lol. Oh well, lesson learnt.

Not sure why you'd want to use bitumen. If you strip the roof back, and remove the interior roof lining, you'll have access to all the seams and joins where water ingress. Using sika flex on all those points should cure the problem. All the roof is aluminium, so rust repellent is likely unnessessary unless you're using an aluminium specific product. Paint how you see fit after that.

@@RoamingTheOutback thank you for getting back to us. Really appreciate the advice, I'll use the sika flex. Thanks

Okay so my Landrover is covered in Raptor, and it has started flaking on the roof, after taking off the roof lining (inspect to see if it needs filling, also the lining is damp) and scraping the paint back around the area. The surface is a wood base, but inside the truck it is aluminium. Is this normal? Or should I invest in a carbon fibre roof

Yes. You don't completely fill the channels. Only fill the cracks.

I think it can, but check the label online.

Although I just had my roof resprayed and pretty sure they left all my sikaflex intact.. looks good to me.

Roaming The Outback thanks Pal will take a look thankyou .

Hey George, I probably got it from BCF or Whitworths. It can't be relied upon for accurate navigation as the electrical interference swings it +-20 degrees, but for a general sense of direction, it helps keep me aware where I'm going.

@@RoamingTheOutback I didn't know that could happen! Thank you for the help Brett, have a good one!

condensation will go anywhere there's bare metal.. I covered all my sides and roof with marine carpet and closed cell foam. Stopped the condensation and reduced cabin noise. throw in some dynamat too if you want to go all the way.

Roaming The Outback thanks mate for the info I will get some of these and try ..will let you know .thanks again

read through the comments to see if someone else has used it successfully.

Did you also check the a pillars, fill the pop rivets and top seams, plus fill the rectangular pressings underneath the gutters? There will be some join you missed.

@@RoamingTheOutback Thanks for the tip. I have not done the rectangular pressing underneath the gutter as I don't think water would come up from there but I will do it. mine is a 2007 puma there is only 1 rivet on the roof near the giraffe window. I think I will try to seal the rubber around the giraffe window. For the love of God I have no idea where the water keeps coming in from. Thanks

@@ecoinsectscreens5551 I've had water come in from the pressings.. I watched it happen in the rain. A tricky thing.

@@RoamingTheOutback . ahh well, defeated by Defender again. done the front pillar with putty ( although the pillar joint is lower than the spot where the water drips off) and blocked the rivets ( most of them are painted and below the water level anyway) , also closed the rectangular pressing on both sides ( temporarily I ran a strip of electrical tape all along) and even put electrical tape around the giraffe window seals just to test if it makes a difference ( I would than put a proper sealant if that is the leaking area). The result.... water still coming in when parked in the rain. my next attempt will be with the car parked slightly uphill to put a big tarp on the uphill half of the car... That will tell me if the water comes in from the back( that is what I think). a day at the time I will move the tarp backwards to cover more and more area until I can point where water coming in. It is driving me nuts but I will get to the bottom of it.

very unlucky.. you've got a unique Defender there, but a good idea on determining the source. Also when it rains next climb inside and run your fingers in the inside channel and check for pooling water (if you can reach behind the facias). Water will also get in between the roof and panels where usually a layer of foam sits, but that would just drip down inside, not fill the channels and run down on you when you brake. @@ecoinsectscreens5551

Sounds like powerful stuff! When the Sikaflex eventually wears out in several years I'll keep my eyes out for better products.

long term most likely haha..

haha. Quite true. But then what would you do with all that free time??