I am adding a new rule. No help or questions answered unless it's related to the video and you are subscribed to the channel. It takes up to much time to reply and I am not free tech support.

That was amazing, thank you! One of my faders is currently very sticky, and your video has given me the confidence to have a crack at fixing it 😁

Now this is state of art skill and video demonstration. Wow.

Lost the little bearing ball, found it again!! I'm one lucky bastard ... Thx for the tut, man, did help a lot!

I have about 10 pitch faders that need deep cleaning . Thank you very much!!!

Thank you very much for the time you spent on teaching us. This is wonderful !

I’ve just done this on one deck to make sure it’s the slider faulty not the board under platter. Worked flawlessly. Perfect reading after. If you have no money I recommend this. If you can just buy 2 and replace. I didn’t have any grease so it was gritty but still worked perfectly. Don’t make my mistake. GET GREASE AND USE IT!

hey excellent tutorial. I followed it for my pitch fader on 1210mk2. Just one remark, it should show 2.7kΩ +-0.1 based on the manual.

I felt like I was watching a scary movie with the soundtrack...lol. Great job!

I've only ever had to repair one fader and it wasn't that successful. Thank you for showing how to do it properly, I now know how I screwed it up so what not to do next time.

Hey I've found out that lithium grease is better alternative to lubricate the pitchfader than deoxide... according to many expiriences of some audio service men; deoxide tends to weaken after some time; thus making the fader scratch and then damage the carbotracks after a while of use. Using a proper high quality industrial lithium grease is the better choice, and it's way cheaper!

I got one caution for anyone taking a mark 2 apart: START at the part where the fader is at. Pry it up and protect the part. What I did was when taking the back cover off I had no idea the fader and the circuit board was RIGHT on the casing, and in removing the back panel I broke the fader PCB. And like almost every part on the turntable they're all custom made with no idea what the spec is, meaning you're stuck buying parts that are no longer made and therefore expensive. I think they learned their lesson on the Mark 3 because they kept the PCB away from the rubber back panel.

man, this is pure art.

I remember doing this to my old mixer crossfaders. You can only do it a few times tho as them little metal tabs that hold the circuit board down tend to break after a few goes. Im here now as ive got some decks and for some reason one of them changes pitch for no reason, first port of call is the pitch control.

the music in this video sounds like a really dramatic movie about fader maintenance, good vid tho

Masterclass pitch resuscitator

This is brilliant. Thanks for documenting this!

Great info. I enjoy this vid. Thanks for sharing

May I ask why you recommend pitch resistance to be at 2.90 in this video but at 2.70 at the other one that deals with calibration? I’d like to find the best option for my MK5, dont really know of you can apply the MK2 specification to them. Thank you!

Ominous music man.

After having done this a few times now I have a few things to add. First is - do you really need to do this? If your pitch assembly or potentiometer looks like what DJ Legion was cleaning up and/or you suspect the pitch is not being 'held' or is erratic as a result of the potentiometer (and not something else like the pitch circuitry) - I'd say yes. If you're just wanting to give your decks some TLC - I'd say do NOT do this. The small tabs/pins shown at around 2:25 are not designed to be moved back and forth multiple times. They stress very easily and will break off, and when they do - you'll very likely be needing to buy new pitch potentiometers. Just ask me how I know. Basically, you have one maybe two chances to open these during their lifetime to give them a clean out. There needs to be a very good reason for you to need to open these. If you are going ahead with it - I found that holding them in your hands and using a pair of side cutters are a lot more precise for getting underneath the tabs and twisting them upward - obviously don't squeeze too hard or you're gonna cut the pins clean off! For flattening them back down afterward, leaving the metal plate on that DJ Legion is removing at around 0:29 and using a pair of long and thin pliers to close the pins up will give you a lot more precision, and the metal plate will protect you from squishing the entire casing. Be careful though. Never use too much pressure. From factory, based on some replacements I ordered, the carbon tracks inside are NOT lubricated at all - where most if not all the 'smooth' and 'resistant' feeling of the fader comes from is a very thick grease used on the underside of the metal casing where the slider makes contact with the metal (the 'slider side' that DJ Legion is cleaning out at around 3:39 and not so much the side walls.) I haven't found the right grease to use here, but I suspect it is 'heavy synthetic damping grease' - from what I have read, Nye 767A or PG-44A MIGHT be the right type to use - but don't quote me on that (and do let me know how you go if you get some.) It's supposed to be non-dripping and barely viscous - almost glue-like in consistency. I got to a point where I replaced mine completely before I go to try this myself. Based on the above, I would NOT recommend to use faderlube on the carbon tracks or anywhere else for that matter. It's quite runny, and I don't know whether it could do any damage long term (probably not, but I don't think much is gained for using it either - happy to be contested about this) I'd just wipe them down to clean off any residue - maybe use some deoxit if absolutely necessary, add the grease to the metal casing shown around 3:39 - and put it all back together. If you do end up buying replacements - beware that it's not just the click vs non-click that you should be looking out for. For example, if you have MK2s you should use replacement part SFDZ122N11-1, MK3D and MK5 should be SFDZ122N11-3. This matters! If you buy SFDZ122N11-4 for your MK3Ds or MK5's for example, you'll quickly learn that the resistance range is different and your slider range wont ever be enough to get -8% and +8% - google the service manuals for your exact model to get the right slider! My decks are from around 1998 and the carbon tracks inside were showing barely any signs of wear and tear. YMMV, but these pots are pretty high quality 'alps' brand and are meant to last a long time - cleaning them out like this should be a last ditch effort with a partial expectation that if you break those pins - you're very likely going to need to buy replacements. Beware! Finally - I am not a repairman, I do not claim to be an expert in repairing 1200s - I'm just sharing with you my experiences when servicing my own.

Thank you for video. At 7:00 when you attach the multimeter, what exactly are the multimeter settings you need to use to get the right display to calibrate? I don’t know what to set the dial of the multimeter at, or even which outlets to use from the tool. Can you advise please.

Looks like this is what I'm going to have to do with my decks. I've noticed fine pitch adjustments aren't happening; when i get a record close to match, any fine adjustments throw it off.

Hi there. This is a fab video and thank you. Can you confirm the name of the lubricant you used on the resistor pads? Thanks Henry

Good day, good start to the year, I wanted to see what lubricant you use to coat the track after cleaning it and that the pitch comb runs well. thanks.

DJ Legion Firstly, Thank you for the most amazing and precisely filmed, well explained tutorial and info videos. I've watched many other videos related to these topics on KZfaq, and when I come back here and the wow factor strikes each time. Now for my question(s) related to this video. Now as a small warning warning I am not super accurate in my technical jargon so apologies in advance if I slip up... As I am currently facing a pitch replacement issue I am curious as to aftermarket variable resistors akin to the Technics OEM branded ones. Are we forced to use the expensive aftermarket items or is there not a suitable 20K sliding resistor which does the same job? What sets the difference. Sure I do not mean putting in a 50p pitch slider , but surely there are items which are suitable , and how does or rather what differentiates these from what come with the SL1200/1210s. Maybe its a simple answer ? but I though if someone may have so good advice, it may be you!? Cheers ,and all the best for 2022

Μπράβο φίλε.

Thanks sunshine, good video with the best content. Don’t suppose you have had a slider that won’t light the pitch lock light with this level of deterioration? I have a deck that it doesn’t send a signal to for the lock led. I’m confident after watching your video to crack it apart, but concerned that it might be something else… I assume( hopefully not make an as out of me and you!🤦) that it’s a contact issue on the pcb and contact legs rather than a problem with the main board… Your thoughts and ideas are more than welcome… Kindest regards, Tim

Hey where i live i have no chance on getting that Faderlube without high cost of shipping. so it makes no sense for me to buy that. I have twice delivery costs as the product costs. Can i use Teflonspray or other things? greetz tom

The slider contacts are really fragile and complicated to be perfectly cleaned . The best way is an ultrasonic cleaner. A little and inexpensive one is enough for the purpose.

Do you know what kind of potentiometer goes in the the pcb of a 1200M3D? Took mine apart and it was so corroded, that it broke in pieces.

I started in 1992 with Technics and they are still my deck of choice... but when I played on a pair of Reloop RP-8000's I was amazed at how smooth the pitch slider was compared to the grainy feel of the Technics I have tried (MK2, MK3d, MK5, M5g) The Reloop pitch fader still has a heavy feel to it but it glides as smooth silk. The Technics pitch fader doesn't seem to respond to small amounts of force. If you try to nudge the pitch a small amount the Technics pitch doesn't budge so you apply a bit more pressure... still nothing until you add just a tiny bit more, but then it moves too much. Is there any way to install a Reloop pitch fader in a Technics? I think the Reloop fader is digital so this mod could probably work with the M5G or MK7. Do you think it's possible?

So what’s the real setting. 2.70. Or 2.90. Cause I watched your other vid and it shows a different resistance. Thx

Show o vídeo sabe me dizer o calibragem pitch numark tt 1650 ?

Thanks for this 🙏❤️🙏

Hi DJ Legion all my respect from Buenos Aires! Can the pitch slide SFDZ122N11-4 (for 1200m5g 1210m5k) works well on 1200 mk2? Thank you very much for this video, and this anwser too.

Hey DJ legion, I've got another question for you. Is this pitchfader which is shown in the video still working up to now? In the last days I've contacted a lot of people asking about their experiences with cleaning pitch faders on technics and they all suggested to not do it, scince it will work fine shortly and after a while it will cause new problems. Best Regards!

Thank you for the video. I have a Pioneer DJM V10 and I wish to replace the stems on the channel faders so they can fit the sliding channel fader knobs (as opposed to p-lock square design knobs). Or possibly have them ground down so they can fit the channel fader knobs. Do you do the type of work or know someone who does? Is replacing just the metal stem difficult. Thank you.

I'm curious of the amount of physical resistance the fader has using this method. Ideally a thick silicon grease might be used to make it so you can dial in pitch adjustments to a very minute fraction rather than sliding easily.

What is a name of lube?

Why my green led doesn't light up on zero position? But it works with reset (to zero) button.

Nice vid. I've done this. But I had no grease or lube It worked ok thanks for sharing

Hi, great video. I have done this myself with a small tube of fader lube. The only issue I have is that it seems that the top metal casing has a different type of grease which seems thicker and gives the slider a smooth heavier slide which feels like a new replacement fader. Do you have any idea what grease it is?

Dang. Can you come do this to the one I just bought? You make it look so easy. I unfortunately bought a mk2 with a rough slider today and I'm not too thrilled. The rest of the deck is solid, the pitch is calibrated right but when sliding forward up it is rough, but down it's fine.

I want to try this out on my deck but I do not have a vice - should I go for it anyways or buy a vice first?

Wondering whats the correct Ohm on the pitch for measuring One movies show 2.7 this other movies shows 2.9

Hello, why do you calibrate the pitch to 2.89 if the technics manual says that you have to do it at 2.7? Thank you.

I've owned my 1200s for 2 years first time owning a pair I've been doing gigs for a year now. Any donts when it comes to cleaning them ? Thank you

Could I ask what kind of components are in the PCB spray? Any example in amzon or ebay?

Where can I buy the fader? Mine just broke on middle while removing the pitch button.

good vid, but that top plate sure needed some paint. . . .

Hi. I have a problem with a pitch with my 1210 mk2. In practice the problem is the double zero. With the pitch at zero (and the LED on) it turns perfectly, when i accelerate with the pitch in the Moment that the led turns off instead of going faster, the turntable slows down to return to a new zero on a value of about +2.5. It holds the +6 and +3.3 very well, a little less the -3.3 but it is at acceptable levels. Searching on the web I found various tutorials to solve my problem, the point is that when I connect the multimeter to the pitch (obviously disconnected from the turntable) I have an X value, and going to modify the VR302 trimmer that value should modify right? To me it remains fixed and constant. The tests I have carried out are the following: I have completely replaced the pitch, putting the One of my other turntable, and it works perfectly, so I rule out problems with the motherboard or others stuffs of the turntable. With the Multimeter attached to the Brown and Red of the pitch (disconnected from the turntable) I tried to move the pitch fader and the value changes (so apparently the fader is good) but with the same configuration by acting on the vr302 the value remains fixed and constant (so apparently the vr302 doesn't work). At that point I connected the Multimeter to the vr302 and rotating it the value changes, so apparently it is good. I am also going crazy because if there was something to replace I would not know what specifically, and with the times that are running I do not want to spend more than I should. 😬 Sorry if I wrote a lot but I hope I have explained the problem well and what tests I did.

Nice vid. Could you provide the name or a link to the device that you used to calibrate to 2.9? My micrometer doesnt go down that low. Thanks

Does anyone know the correct orientation of the metal H thing that sits on the slider? (4:47). One of my decks came with it that way up and the other had it upside down. Doesn't seem like it makes a difference but would be interesting to know the factory standard...

nice, thanks

Hi, nice video. Please what can i do if pitch led is not working ? All cable and pcb solder point is ok... tried to resold everything. Tried the led and it is not burned, it works and lights (with an external power source). Pitch slider stop fine in the middle, but no power the led....

What is the name of the machine you used to calibrate the pitch to factory settings

last one lol ive replaced borth pitch but for future reff is this the right stuff DeoxIT® Fader Squeeze Tube, 100% solution, 2 ml as it a lot cheapy than the spy or is it no good look forwould to your reply pc for lubeing the board

Is it possible to clean the pcb with isopropyl alcohol? Or does it damage the pcb? Cheers

Great video. Does anyone offer this as a postal service?

Skills !!!

How many watts is that soldering iron @ DJ legion

hi any one no what the Technics 1210 MRK 2 VR302 Pitch Control Gain Adjustment connected on the Pitch Fader PCB ohm is the plenty to choose from but don't no what the ohm to get is any help so can get 1 before xmas would be great thanks in advance

In place of Deoxit, can you use WD40? Thankful.

But yes, thank you for the video. Well made.

Hey, I have a problem, I got in +8% a value different than 0 and in the -8% a value of 18.0 aprox.. what is wrong? thanks

Is IPA alcohol?

2:57 ..AHA! and now I think I know where that ball bearing comes from, which I found rolling around in the TT chasis! unless there are other mystery balls I am yet to discover which are not in there place!?

Why 2.9K ? The right value is not 2.7k ? Thank You

Very nice job! Would you like to sell that fader?

hey, pretty good job fella.. although i highly recommend you pack the fader with non conductive mechanical slip grease, just like it is when a Technics fader is new. Caig makes a silicone slip grease for this very application , the same company that makes your contact cleaner and the fader lube your using.. it will provide a nice resistance , a silky smooth travel, protection from moisture and will stay lubricated for 30 years. A fader with just fader lube will feel pretty rough and grainy and will progressively get worse with time. cheers store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.305/.f

Technics service manual.. Pitch gain, 2,7 kOhm + - 0,5

2,90 kOhm? I put them to 2,75 Kohm

Is it possible to mail you mines

Technical manual say 2.70 ohm..........

creepy music!

Nadie que haga el vídeo en español??😫

lol whats with the scary music?

For god's sake, use nitrile gloves!

Can I have this without the noise in the background? It's driving me nuts!!! Great video otherwise!

WTF with the music