I've had a different experience. ASA actually likes the fan, but on very low and very ambient. Even with big parts. Do this and no enclosure is necessary. However, I have better experience with more shells. 3 at a minimum.

Try ASA with a little cooling when printing bridges, overhangs or very small parts. I have my issues with pmma - would be cool to hear how you get this to print.

Thank you Alec for making all your videos. I have learned so much from you about 3d printing. MatterHackers is so Awesome.

@1:56 Kapton tape doesn't to a damn thing to spread heat more evenly on the bed. It's too thin (just a few mils thick) and not a great conductor. To spread heat well it would need to be both of those. I would love to see a thermal image proving otherwise. What Kapton DOES do is improve adhesion and allow for easy cleanup.

Great video Buddy! I finally found the cheapest an best solution and I have tested with very tall items without failure. Solution : 1. Get a transparent plastic Bag that is way bigger that ur printer n avoid it touching ur heat bed n nozzle.tuck excess under the printer or tape down. 2. Get a painter's Tape, even one from dollar tree works but quality one is much better as it leaves no residue to be cleaned off when it's time to remove it.Note: remove only when heat bed is hot much easier . 3. Vey important bed leveling as this will ensure nozzle doesn't knock ur prints off the bed. 4. Temp settings: nozzle 260-270, Bed 110-120 5. Turn the Fan OFF! 6. Ur Prints will stick to the printers tape on the bed forever until u want to take it off which is also easy to remove. I have sidewinder X1 n I have printed lots of fuselage for rc planes with this method. I even print my original PLA Gcode files in ASA . All I did was change the settings in the printer to preheat 270 nozzle 120bed and as soon as print job starts turn the Fan off and recheck again n again to make sure the fan is Off n heat setting remains same for ASA. Then cover printer with transparent Garbage bag. All done 7.Good luck !

Thank you guys, I use your product. Very good quality and fast shipping. Keep strong)))

wow, that was a long commercial. what i took from this vid: - asa is like abs, so no fans is best - kapton tape and 100 degrees for the bed

I have printed a lot of small parts with unbranded ASA from China with good results on my Original Prusa Mk2S. It does not stick to the heated PEI bed at all. But a glue stick makes it all work. I still need a brim for the print.

I was printing some small parts and the prints themselves looked absolutely perfect except they were extremely brittle. I am so happy the electronics that were to be attached to these parts were not - when the parts failed. The parts were so Brittle broke I snapped them in my hands like a China doll falling from the shelf.

nice, Informative Video. I am doing almost all of the steps for PTEG already. And I have no problems with layeradhesion or adhesion of the first layer. At least not with PTEG. But so far, I have no enclosure. Can you recommend a passive phototent-enclosure? Would this be enough for ASA?

Have you had any experience with PolyMake ASA 1kg 2.85mm? Trying it out on Ultimaker 3 with Enclosure, aiming for 0.125-0.15mm results.

Do you have an asa profile for Simplify3D? I will use with artillery x1 printer. Thanks

ASA doesn't print good on my ender 3.... 255c 110c Bed temp, No fan and it comes out flaky with no solid layers... Dunno what I'm doing wrong... please advise...

I have to use part cooling fan on overhangs and bridges.. If I don't I get really bad unusable parts with melted holes and sagging overhangs. So I don't know why you are suggesting to turn the part cooling fang off. In my experience it's a difference between perfect print and failed one.

DELRIN POM filament. Do you have a video for it?

I use PVA mold release film, that is normally used for easy mold release with a special priming wax, used that way, it will keep resin from sticking to the mold, and make release easy. Used without the wax on a Glas plate, it will act like a PVA glue, you can wipe it on with a paper towel and it will dry high gloss. Works perfect for me so far, no warping on an open frame Hypercube.

Printed with Filamentum ASA Extrafill on my Prusa Mk3 on the PEI sheet. It broke the PEI layer, had to hammer it off.... Any way to reduce bed adhesion?

Hope there is someone around Switzerland that can repair this?

How are the fumes from ASA? Most places warn that it releases toxic fumes while printing, yet I still see people not using enclosures with fume extraction.

For me without fan cooling it's nearly impossible to print ASA. I need it running at about 20%-30% on my Prusa i3 MK2S. At least with Fillamentums ASA

sorry my friend, I like your video, but what you tell us about temperature is wrong. ASA is my favorite material. Big or solid parts must be printed with 50% fan and small or fragile parts with 100% fan speed. Otherwise you get very poor results. This is different from ABS, because ABS works best without any cooling.

abs juice works great

110 degree? Ob my bed it doesn't stick until temperature rises to 150 degrees (with very sticky hairspray)

You guys should do a video over HDPE filament

Just use an enclosure. It can be a simple as a plastic bag over your printer. It's that simple guys.

Which support you use for Asa? I saw that for PLA the best is the PETG. Which one fir ASA?

Does ASA paint well? If so what kind of prep is needed?

What would be the best filament to use for the drip tray for my coffee machine tried pla+ but it worped thanks

What about print speed? Also printing small feature’s are hard to print because filament does not have time to solidify before the next layer is added and the whole thing drags.

Blue scotch brand tape on 85 degree bed works great!

Help!! Just started printing after a long time. I'm using ASA for a radio control boat, so I can sand , glue and for strength. Problem is , it won't stick to the bed!. Am using only rubbing alcohol 99.9% pure to clean the mega x glass. No glue or anything else. Printed the mast as a trial; printing temp 230c, initial layer 235c and fan on 30% ( used fan after 4th attempt and finish is superb ) Problem is that it lists of the bed whether it's a small surface touching or a larger area touching, it just seems to warp or lift of completely. PLA was easy, this is frustrating. All other settings are fine. Do I need a glue or something else? Can someone please help?

Can I use alcohol to clean the extruder and other partys?

You could have mentioned what nozzle height ASA needs. This seems to be one of the most important settings and yet I can't find anyone who actually seems to know what this is.

if it warps the same as ABS but do not yellow outdoors, thats not that many benefits of using ASA. any other things that are better than ABS? im still not conviced. so please enlighten me.

I use a moving box from Home Depot for an enclosure.

I found asa prints much cleaner then abs.

Enclosure enclosure enclosure

Whenever I see hairspray, I press stop. You did not figure out the correct bed temperature.

1:51 not even going to guess what that is.

How come no one is talking about the fumes and needing an extractor to safely print?!?

If you're printing on glass it's better to start with a lower temp, like 85, then increase by 5 degrees until you get a good result. If you start high, say 120, you may have a bad surprise when you try to pry the part of the bed and it take chips of glass with it. Too hot can ruin your glass bed because just like ABS, ASA can bake itself into it.

1:25 for da beard.

Okay...since it seems exactly the same as abs...why not just use abs???? does it stink like ABS also???

I clean out my extruder gear teeth with.....a toothpick 🙂

ASA needs to drop by 10 a kilo so more people will leave ABS.

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