Thanks for all your help. I'm a mechanical engineer and design molds for the auto-industry. Just got into 3D printing and WOW!!!! Awesome.

Great video. Just the information I needed. Thank you

Great overview on how to succeed with a NylonX!

Thanks for mentioning to heat the nozzle before removing. I've seen numerous videos that say change out the nozzle but no one ever says to heat it up first. While this may or may not be common knowledge to most 3d printer owners, being new to this, this is first I've heard about that👍

I print with this stuff all the time and love it. Paired it with the Ruby nozzle and it prints great!

Hey i was using Carbon Fiber PETG and watched your video many good tips i applied to the CF PETG with good success. Thank You for posting. D

Super useful info bro!

Thanks. Good video and information. Groovy music too.

Thanks for this video. Good info! I would like to share another tip here: When printing Nylon, for a really flat and shiny surface finish of the first layer, I always apply a layer of water-soluble white wood glue (=PVA) on the entire surface of my buildplate. I apply that layer by first putting some painters tape along the edges of the buildplate, then pouring down plenty of PVA glue between those tapes on the buildplate and finally flattening out the glue with a metal ruler. The PVA layer will then have the same thickness of the tapes on the edges and you will end up with al very smooth surface to print Nylon on. TIP: When printing large items a glass build plate might break due to the fact that Nylon really sticks well on PVA and due to the warping of the printed item.

This will be nice to print my HMC with and with no post processing, but it might be difficult to glue parts together if I have to do multiple parts

Agggggghhh...... I have to try flexibles eventually. I've been sticking to PLA this whole time. I'm worried about jamming up a nozzle...

Printing some Subaru Outback lift spacers right now in this material. I am so excited to see how they come out. It is an absolutely beautiful material.

okay so you suggest putting this in the same oven that we cook food in? realize that was a dumb question but short of buying another oven thinking how to safely dry out nylon

Hello, I need a material that can support up to 200c. does this support?

Maybe I missed this in the video somewhere, but what diameter nozzle is recommended when printing NylonX? I've heard it's generally a good idea to size up your nozzle when printing these "infused" filaments, but by how much? Is a .40 diameter nozzle adequate? Should I go bigger? Or - does it depend more so on layer height? For regular Nylon, I'd prefer a smaller diameter nozzle b/c printing with my .40mm nozzle @ .20mm layer height is too stringy. I assume one would also need an enclosure to print this because it's a type of nylon and would need that even heating to minimize warpage? However - Do I still need to turn off my layer cooling fans if I am using an enclosure? Good tip on the z height for first layer... I think this was an issue I was having with Taulman Bridge nylon previously.

How is the wall strength with say 1mm thick? What's the minimum wall thickness recommended?

1:49 lol, that is not .05mm, thats more like 2mm offset

What 3-D printer do you recommend out of the box that’s good for using this nylon x? trying to spend under a thousand dollars and should it be a enclosed unit? I’m new to this so I want to get straight to printing when it arrives. And I’m trying to print 1/5 scale rc car wheels and they would need to be printed at a 100% fill at a 2mm to 3mm thickness so I’m lookin for kinda of fast prints not Particular pretty just flat and true prints? Something Like your gear bearing thing but not as thick

Hey bro, what type of 3D printer did you use man

awesome video thank you!

will the material absorb moisture once its been printed? No good for water application? ie rc boat

So I should buy a handheld laser temperature meter, I know it’s over kill but I’ve been lookin for a reason to get one

I’m trying to do this with the ender 3 and the adhesion is horrible I’m using a all metal hot end is there anyway you could help

The car body has blue stuff underneath it, what is that?

I see many people are replacing the hot end on the ender 3 & ender 5 printers with all metal hot ends in order to print nylon, carbon fiber etc. Would you by chance know if the ender 3 "PRO" and ender 5 "PRO" come standard with hot ends that do not need hot end modification to print nylon & CF? Also, I am about to purchase my 1st 3D printer and will mostly be printing materials that need to be high strength & rigid. Do you feel the Creality products are up for the challenge? And, since I'm basically looking for strong & rigid vs. nice looking, Would you recommend another printer within the same $300.00 - $600.00 price range? Your assistance with this decision would be greatly appreciated.

What bridge or super steep overhang settings would you recommend as a starting point with NylonX, please? I just need a good starting point. The printer is all metal hot end M3D V6 upgraded Creality Ender-5 Plus with the Silent Stepper board upgrade (TMC2208 drivers) and the latest TM3D Marlin 2.0 firmware. I'm comfortable with dialing in the e-steps, the slicer flow rate, so that my lines come out to within .01mm of the line width if not dead on. I'm pretty comfortable getting my z offset, but I rarely do bridging, and my most successful bridging or overhangs have been minimal at best or supported. With an expensive filament like NylonX, I'd sure like to at least have a chance at some strong bridging. I saw an article on the MH website demonstrating the bridge strength of NylonX but the article didn't mention anything about the bridge settings used. Thanks for any help you might be able to give for a good starting point.

Does anyone know a service I could use to print some parts in Nylon X.

Do all hot ends fit all printers?

Does anybody know: Can I print this filament on a Voron 2.4(r1)? What is know about temperature resiliance of the material? Thanks!

Does anyone successfully print NylonX with Aqua Net hair spray? Or is a stick adhesive (ie: glue stick) what is absolutely needed?? I have a borosilicate bed that I was planning on trying to use with my NylonX. Thanks!!

very informative.

Great info and product, however, you're wrong on desiccant not being able to extract moisture from filament. I think CNC Kitchen demonstrated this in part of one of their videos. Obviously its not as fast as oven but you can see measurable continued extraction of moisture beyond what you get from the oven over time. This simply makes sense too, like baking bread or something you get a dry outer crush with moisture still towards the middle, filament is smaller in diameter but also much more dense. Moral of the story, dry in oven then store air tight WITH desiccant for continued slow extraction (I think around 10days stored it levels out to as low as you're going to get).

Mate - your audio - it's quite hard to hear some of these specs, can I suggest a Lavallière mic? I can't understand what you are saying and the music doesn't duck enough. Thanks. I say this only because we really want to hear what you are saying.

WHAT TYPE OF PRINTER ARE YOU USING!!!!!

Isn't it bad for your food in the oven if you put the SPOOL in the oven? The spool itself is .. I don't know ... other plastic? ABS? So toxic?

i am purchased nylonX from you guys thinking it would be good to print my homemade drone from. I read it would be one of the best but am not sure... Would there be specific settings for infill etc that would make it right. I am doing 100% infill with solid layer every 15 at .15 layers? thank you

do i need to have a heated bed to be able to print with NylonX?

Anything different for printing on PEI? Or same deal with gluestick?

I have ABS ramps for my truck and they dont crush. Haven't had anything but problems with high end nylons. Dunno what the problem is - 100c + bed dosent help, Micro Swiss all metal hot end dosent help, PEI dosent work glue stick helped a little. Got Tulman Bridge and it was oily. Im thinking theres fake Tulman filaments on Amazon now. The nylon carbon fiber is so flipping expensive, probably need a .8mm nozzle for it to not clog.

(intro song) Point Point - Morning BJ

Does NylonX absorb water if it is poured on it after the print is done and off of the bed?

I'd like to know what airtight container is being used in this video? It looks like a perfect size for single roll storage.

What were the settings used for the item strength demonstration?

Outstanding video! What is the delta in terms of weight between the same PETG printed part and NylonX printed part?

I disagree about desiccant pulling moisture from filament. I have had 2 "bad" spools of PLA show up that were water logged. After a couple weeks in a tub full (this is a 30 gallon tub with 7 pounds silica gel) of desiccant they were fine.

Can I print a hypercar (real car) chassis with this filament ?

what retraction settings have been working for you guys? I keep getting a bit of stringing

thanks for video, btw, that's a crescent wrench

What’s a good 3D printer for printing Nylon X that’s costs about $500?

Will this print on CR-10?

Increase by .05?!?!?!! That's a massive jump.

Could you olease make a video about filaments that could ruin your brass nozzle! Like filaments with carbon fiber, etc. I would love to buy some other filamenttyoes than pla and abs; but I don't know which filaments(with addins like glitter, etc) ruin your nozzle!

Would rice keep it dry in a air tight container 🤔🤔🤔

hey dude how much does a roll cost , thank you GOD bless

Useful content thanks, but the title ‘music’ makes me flinch every-time I hear it

Guys, could you please use personal microphones or change the mic location to improve the sound quality (reduce echo, increase volume)?

Thanks for taking the time to make this video. It was helpful to me. Please make more of an effort to enunciate your words. I had to rewind part of your video 5 times and I am still not 100% sure what you were saying. I am new to 3D printing and don't know all of the jargon yet, but I think you were saying..."all-metal print heads".

Go Birds!

Disecant does dry nylon.

I've never claimed to be a "pro" at 3d printing, but I never realized I'm an idiot. I CANNOT get NylonX to stick. I've tried glass, steal, PEI, and garolite beds...with ranges from 40-100C, and from 250-280C on my metal hotend with steel nozzle......all on a Hypercube Evolution 300. I have it enclosed, with no part cooling fan activation. I'm about to tear out my hair, and burn this printer !!!!