Hi Tdoo, All 3 are reliable, but the third way is also the bulkiest. I don't use this method type a lot because it also has the biggest potential to make the entry hole bigger if the hook somehow slides up. When the hooks are attached to the mouth of the fish, they are subjected to a lot of forces and accidents do happen - so I want my system to be as flawless as possible - it is impossible to have a perfect system, but you can make things you are able to control as perfectly as possible. The first way is usually my choice, but the way shimano does it has been creeping up more coz of the ease and efficiency of the method.

Thank you for the explanation. I'll try the first 2 methods for this season to see how well they work.

@@tdoo6024 There are certain things to note for this - like the braid you use to bind the cord to the hook. Should you need anything, feel free to get in touch with me on IG, same username.

​@@TheFishingKit I am using PE 0.6 (0.10mm) Braid 8 Strands line to bind the lines. I've tried all the methods and I like the one where I spliced the Kevlar line at the solid ring then use the first method (hook penetrating both lines) and bind the line to the shaft with PE 0.6. For double assist hook setup, I have 2 separate spliced lines to the solid ring, then bind one hook to each line and making sure to align the hooks to the solid ring so that they are on the same plane. I find this setup gives me the best result where two hooks are facing each other perfectly and they don't get misaligned when you pull on one hook against a solid ring like a fish would. I have tied hundreds of assist hooks and different styles from other utubers. All will work, but your explanations gave me the freedom to mix and match and got the results I wanted in assist hooks (Single or Double, with or without flashes) I have 100% confident in the binds (tested them in my garage, and only able to bend the hooks, binds remained intact). BTW, braided Kevlar line from 9KM on AliExpress worked great. 300lbs test is hard to splice but 400lbs and 500lbs are much easier to splice. Tape the end of the Kevlar before you insert the splicing needle so the Kevlar won't unravel. Hope this help others who watch your videos.

@@tdoo6024 Thanks for the useful comment. Aliexpress cords are hit and miss, but if you find ones that work - they work :) I have helped two major brands with some assist hook design and development work...so what I show is pretty much an industry standard...also - there are more that I have shown in my IG that people haven't figured out yet. :)

:)

Glad to help!

Great to hear! I was already going to make this since a lot have asked for it Crash, there are a lot of types of Assist hooks, not just for jigs. This video is just for the jigs. You can put assist hooks on plugs, spoons and other lures. Actually very effective.

Welcome aboard! :)

@@TheFishingKit thanks

the binding line is very thin braid...if you are in the US, it would be hard, but elsewhere, it is PE0.4. the size of the cord depends on the size of the hook and the jig you are planning to use it on.

There's a lot really depends on your budget - there are rotating chinese made ones that are good enough - i am using my fly tying vise coz its what i have and i tie flies with it too. Wouldn't recommend going all out on a vise

I use all sorts, Cultiva/Owner, Varivas and Xesta are top choices. Sizes depends on what I make them for, #1,#2,#3 and #4 are commonly used for offshore work, and smaller stuff for inshore use.

you can try doing it with the method with the overhand knot at the end, as well as the last method. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hK1lZsmS2L7Xo3k.html

@@TheFishingKit thanks for the advice

hook side does not depends on the weight of the jig. it depends on the width of the jig. it could be that the 40g you are using is narrower than other jigs of the same weight right? as far as cords are concerned, it pretty much depends on what you are catching or trying to catch. you can go as light as 50lb or as high up as 200/300. If you are building your own, then then you can adjust things the way it fits your use. This is the biggest thing about making your own.

@@TheFishingKit understood sir finally i found the best to get some tips. 👍👍👍

You can take out the core and put flouro carbon inside for the top set and leave the core for the rear hook. Solid cords for the rear only.

you can, I used to use that, but you need to have a turner for that.

​@@TheFishingKit Thanks. Superglue works too? I was also wondering what size of thread you use? I have some fly tying stuff left here from 2/0 to 8/0

@@1V2N1V2 fly fishing thread wont work, very thin braid is what is commonly used for making assist hooks. Again, I suggest you watch the assist hook making videos because all the information you are looking for is there.

@@TheFishingKit I thought braid is not hydrophobic enough because it is often coated so it won't soak up the glue? Someone suggested me 200D thread and it seems to work for him

@@1V2N1V2 Again, this is info I mention in the assist hooks how to videos. What holds things in place is not the glue, it is the bindings themselves. if your binding isn't good, no amount of glue will make it better. IF your bindings are made with thread that is weak like fly tying thread, the structure they make even with glue is still going to be weak. The difficult part is looking for braid thats thin enough, because you won't find these braids in the US market, if you do, they are expensive. for most people outside the US, this is common for ultralight gear for Aji or mebaru fishing.

In the US maybe, there are alternative brands in Asia that make it cheaper. Not a lot of work at all, pretty much the same work for any type of modern fishing method. But, its its too difficult for you, there is always bait. :)