+gizzy nc thanks mate, as a fan of older bikes I feel we need to help where we can to keep them on the road.

especially since once all the electronic fuel injected bikes have fallen apart, the old bikes will still be running in the mad max like dystopian future.

@@HypnoticPattern And we'll need to tune them to run on the remaining stale fuel

6.17.22. Learn it, use it, pass it on!

+james woodend thanks for watching James

Thanks mate

Thanks Brian

+Jim Aylward thanks Jim

Hi Andy, my second name is the same, & some friends only know me by that name. I have been following & really enjoying your posts, especially those of the XS 11. I have a 79 XS 11 F, bought as new. It has done 46 thousand kilos, but has been standing 12 years now, due to it having caught alight in 2006, minimal damage though. I had added carburettor cleaned to the fuel, & unfortunately there was a minute rust hole held closed by the paint all the years, which was opened by the carb cleaner, which allowed the fuel to spray onto the plugs, hence the fire. Unfortunately I left the fuel in the carbs for too long, & as a result minute holes were eaten into of the brass floats, & the carbs were a mess when I eventually opened them up! I found Acetic acid cleans the brass very well but doesn't eat any metal, even the aluminium. I retired at 65 last year, so now have time to do some minimal "rebuilding" of my bike to get it back on the road. Fortunately I'm still very much on my feet, young at heart, & able to still enjoy my bike when it'll be back back on the road. Its still in a very good condition. Just one question ... What would be your opinion regarding its bores? Do you think I need to open it up to check on rust? I I've in Port Elizabeth South Africa, maybe a climate similar to you side?? The bike has always been well covered in the garage, the inlet ports stuffed with rags. I do maybe have to replace the valve guide seals, as it used to burn an oily sediment on the exhaust end, but that I could see, it didn't smoke. Maybe I should just open it anyway, replace the oil seals, although I'm keen to ride the bike. I do remember that if it stood long, it would smoke after standing, but once warmed up would stop smoking once warm and started a second time, so probably valve guide seals? Not sure if you're still posting, as Uve only recently discovered your posts and enjoy them, they're interesting & informative, just great! Go well!

@@michaelbutlion5087 are you back up and riding ...???

@@jerryking1434 Hi. Unfortunately I'm not anywhere near that yet. I'm a member of the Triumph Sports Car Club, Port Elizabeth, the name now been changed by this idiotic government to some other unpronounceable name, here in South Africa. I've been working on a club member's cars, the last of which I hope to give back to the guy by the end of next week. Only then am I going to be able to look ahead at my very patient bike that I'm dying to get back onto! In the meantime I've progressively prepared and planned ahead and should have everything ready to start immediately once my other commitments are cleared. Its been a long wait!

Thanks George, north or south?

south, based near the city. recently got my licence with some friends and have been enjoying your video's between riding!

You're welcome to join us on a ROT ride anytime mate

+Ben Hebert that's great news about the calipers, not so great about the wiring 😐 thanks for watching

do you have any remedy for a really heavy clutch. mine is extremely firm and is a workout to pull.

If you are using aftermarket levers you may not be getting the mechanical advantage you need (the XS11 clutch lever is very long). If you have heavy duty springs in your clutch you can try replacing two, diagonally opposite, with standard springs. Other than that all I could suggest is clean and lube everything, including your cable, and make sure that the cable isn't being impeded anywhere. Maybe some time in the gym lol.

Thanks for the speedy reply i love watching your videos. i got some used carbs on ebay which were surprisingly clean and look like they're in way better shape than the ones my bike originally had. the wiring is still a bit of an octopus. Wiring it with the motogadget m-unit is proving to be harder than i thought. i got the starter to work by running wire to the switch but thats about it!

Thanks Ben, if I had known about the M-Unit when I started this project I would have bought one. I hope you sort it out.

lol...thanks for tuning in mate, Andy

G’day Kev, yes it will work on combinations up to four cylinders, it is also available for up to six cylinders.

Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions Awesome, cheers Andy 👌🏻

The carb slide synchronisation is adjusted via a "cam" nut and locking screw.

Glad it could help. There are a number of carb videos on my channel mate, thanks for tuning in.

Different Carbs though lol.

Hey! Just wondering if you ever found the answer to your question, because I am having the same issue with my 1986 Kawasaki ZL600. Thanks!

Btw, i have bs34ss mikuni carb on it as genuine. Waiting for you wise aproach :)

Hi Ali, I will sit down, read and digest this when I did some time to focus on it. We are heading interstate this week and are doing the family Christmas thing this weekend with the grandkids etc. I promise I’ll get back to you soon, Andy

Thanks Andy, cant wait to read it ! Wish you and your family Merry Merry Christmas !

I haven’t forgotten you mate, I’m just a bit busy at the moment. Probably won’t have time to focus until after Christmas

Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions Don't worry Andy, I have time and in mean time I will let you know about the upgrades that I'm going to do soon. Thank you a lot, I have already learned a lot from you. Waiting for your wise advices ! Cheers ! (BTW, I'm from Turkey and if you need anything related to my country, I'd be happy to help. Just letting you know) Have a nice day, I'm going to sleep now :D

G’day Tim, i bet you’re having a great time with the build, I know I did. I cut down the original, see it here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p91-n7SC2quahoU.html thanks for watching

Thanks for that. Reminds me I need to check the UK law before chopping it down. The Honda has a plastic mudguard so I’ll try with the Dremel.

G’day mate, quite common to see different emulsion tubes etc in the centre carbs. But no, you adjust the mixture screws the same.

Hi Greg, the adapters are for manifolds with screw in ports. As the XS1100 has tubes mounted in the manifolds you don't need any adapters. You just remove the rubber plug from the manifold and push the hose straight on. Thanks for watching, Andy

Thanks mate!

G'day Ryan, I've never tried it, I find that carb cleaner works fine. Thanks for tuning in.

G’day Dave. If it’s running well at wider throttle openings I would suggest that you first try lifting the needle one position. If you still have trouble try going up a size on your pilot jet

Have you considered that your ignition timing or advance my not be correct? Many of your symptoms could indicate this. There is an old bike mechanics saying, "90% of carburetor problems are electrical". It might be worth looking into.

Thank you! Unfortunately I am not experienced with engine internals, but when its warmer I will flip through my service manual and see what I come up with. My eventual goal with the CBR is to get a 1990 model in OEM paint and install all of the factory pro upgrades - jet kit, ignition advance, etc. to make it as good as can be. Thanks again!

That’s generally caused by being a little too rich. It maybe worth dropping the needle position by one increment.

Varying altitudes is the reason CV carburetors were invented. Technology has come a long way.

Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions of course, CV carburetors do compensate somewhat for altitude. But, none of my dirtbike‘s had CV carburetors. Not my YZ 125, RM 125, CR 125, CT1, CT2 IT 175, IT200, KD 125, KDX 175, KDX 200,(Air cooled), KDX 200, water cooled, DR 100, YT 175,Gas gas jtr250,fantic section 250,BETA jtr 250, XR 250 R, XL 250,tt500... none of my above motorcycles that I have owned from time to time since 1968 have had CV carburetors..And these are just the off-road dirt/trials bikes that I have owned. for street & RR track,into the RDs, cb750,cb400f,z1,DS7,R5,RZ350,H1,S2,A1,A7,350GTR,TZ250D (with lectrons)TD1,td2b,H1-R(yes a sand cast case dry clutch factory Kawasaki H1R-eric buell ended up with the chasis) None of these machines had CV carburetors either I have owned every one of the above machines.. these are just most of the ones I can remember without CV carburetors..They really make me appreciate my fuel injected machines, my current street bikes are a Moto Guzzi Norge, and a Honda GL 1800 .. when I was a Honda motorcycle mechanic at a busy dealership that had seven full-time mechanics. I remember that I bought my current snap on 24 inch number two Phillips screwdriver, just for pulling the carburetors on CB 750s..I remember what a pain in the ass it was to sinc The first generation CB 750 carbs when they each had a single separate throttle cable before bell cranks.. no I do not miss carburetors one bit.. I actually had one 1982 Suzuki DR 100 4-stroke, My wife’s trail bike, a California model. I could never get that motorcycle to carburate correctly.. it wouldn’t run unless you left the enriching circuit on for three or four minutes and let the motor rev without touching the throttle for the first five minutes. Then once it warmed up, trail riding, climbing a steep hill, it would pull, until you went to three-quarter throttle, from 3/4 to wide open, it fell on its face/lean. Let off the throttle, it would start pulling again. I tried needle shims, I tried main jets, I tried , everything I could think of, that California turned by the EP a carburetor could not be made to run correctly. It was not the float setting,, It was not an air leak, it was not low compression, it was not a tight valve. It just went Lucas

+Joe Simmons CV carbs will run with pod filters, but you will struggle to get them to perform and will regret removing the air box ultimately. By all means try, lots of people have, but make sure you can put all the factory stuff back if it proves too problematic. The CV carbs are designed to compensate for various altitudes and as a result are extremely sensitive to change in pressure between the Venturi and the air jets, particularly the emulsion tubes. If you can maintain the same length air tract and deliver laminar flow, by using the factory intake tubes with the pods fitted to the end of them, you stand half a chance. But they rely heavily on the shared air plenum of the factory filter housing. I'm waffling now, thanks for watching and good luck with your project, Andy

+Toxic Ph4ntom G'day mate, thanks for tuning in. Yes you have to do them one at a time, and the engine should be at operating temperature.

lol, lol, lol pmsl

Sorry for the late reply, I often introduce a self imposed black out. The leak is a result of leaking fuel taps. The static head pressure in the tank is often enough to bleed fuel past the needle and seat. It finds its way into the airbox and engine via the air correction jet and even the needle jet, especially when it is sitting on the side stand. It floods into the intake ports and enters the engine via whatever intake valve is open. It is not good because it will washout your bearings, not to mention the flammability issue. Root cause is usually either a leaking fuel valve vacuum diagram or the liquid seal itself. Also possible that it is the octy valve if it is an XS11. Have a look at my video on the GS fuel valve, it may help you understand the issue kzfaq.info/get/bejne/etaenNh1zcW4dn0.html

Thanks, this is helpful. I have a 1980 XS11G, though I believe a previous owner install at Special Tank and petcocks. The petcocks appear to be rock solid and not leaking. Also-I have bypassed the octy. I just capped off the two front nipples. I also was able to start the bike up recently and don’t think the carbs are leaking anymore (after a good clean) but the bike cannot hold idle. The moment I stop giving it gas, it dies. Even if carbs are leaky, I suspect it should be able to idle. Do I need to test for compression? Hoping I didn’t harm the engine when there was gas in the oil.

You think it runs like shit now, wait until you fit pod filters 😂 Seriously I would advise sticking to the factory airbox. That aside I would say that if you are certain that your fuel valves are all not leaking then I would be double checking your float levels and the needle and seats. As for the not idling it is possible that you just need to adjust the air/fuel mixture (more enriched) or that your butterfly shaft seals are leaking, or some other vacuum leak. Get it running and as close to idle as you can. Then spray some carb clean around the shafts and the manifold boots. You will hear the RPMs pick up if you have a leak. *Edit* also check valve clearances

Thanks Andy, Motorbike show wants £160 to balance the carbs on my cbr 600 f3 and like every true biker, we love to tinker with our bikes,

G’day mate, sounds like you’re at your wits end. Here’s a few things to look at. 1. If the idle adjustment screw (singular) is not touching anything and is high reving it is possible that your accelerator cable is not adjusted correctly. 2. Yes there will be an air/fuel mixture screw on each carb. Carefully wind them all the way closed and then wind them out two turns. Start there and see how you go.

Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions i think i was a throttle cable issue it was just a bit bound up got it running today..

They’re somewhat more sedate in standard trim. This bike has extensive cylinder head work, a big bore kit, the RS36 race carbs and four into one with not much muffler.

Sounds super tight. Must be lovely to open it up on the road. Nice work!

beast Castro get a bigger bike bruh

G'day Andrew. The factory carbs run far better with a shared air plenum, a lot of engineering went into that airbox. That being said it shouldn't be doing what you're describing. The short answer is that they are flooding, those airtubes are the float bowl breathers. The task for you now is to work out why. It will be fuel bypassing the needle and seat and it could be for a number of reasons. It could be that the needle and seats leak. It could be that your float level is set too high, it could be that one or more of the floats are being impeded by something within the bowl and are unable to operate properly and close the needle and seat. Watch my video on bench tuning a set of CV carbs from a GS1000, the process is the same. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/btZnppmGnq6xn3k.html

@@ANDY5 ,thanks for the immediate answer Will watchsaid video ,go through the process, and report back Take care See you on the road (huh, your in tasmania and im in france!!! ,you know what i mean) Cheers again ,bye

Quadflopper101 check out the manual on what size jets came stock and checkout dynojet or other manufacturers for a replacement. Hope this helps

due to a family crises Dynojet is out of my price range right now. because the original stock jets were kinda beat up I replaced them with new stock jets along with all the other parts you normally replace in a rebuild, I even checked to make sure the jets were the actual correct size but bike still running way lean when not on pilot circuit so just to try and get the bike to run richer above 3000 rpm I increased mains all the way up from stock of 110 to 116 which made the bottom end run so rich that it stumbles all over itself but above 4000 rpm's the bike goes dangerously lean equally on all 4 cylinders. Ive been working on bikes for 40 years but don't have much experience with CV carbs, there has to be something I'm missing so I'm hoping someone might have some other ideas beyond the obvious ones. thanks for responding though....

Hobart

I would suggest that it isn't getting any fuel, blocked jets would be my first guess.

I thought the same. I’ve been around bikes atvs through my childhood n deep cleaned every jet n now won’t start at all so idk. Might send to a shop

G’day mate, I use a MotoGadget M-Lock ignition. It uses a RF reader to switch on and off. I was waving the fob past the reader, which is located below the seat, and I placed the fob on the lift.

motogadget.com/shop/en/m-lock-rfid-zundschloss.html

@@ANDY5 That's what I thought it might be. I'm sold. Ty.

Mikuni RS36 Flat Sides

The Motion Pro units are aluminium rods, not liquid. Thanks for watching, Andy

450K