+1. Unfortunately after reading this, my bed had been like that for few weeks already (I was wondering how come the build plate would no longer lay flat so soon) and I have dimples in the insulation, but at least I could release the pressure on it. In principle, this is not bad advice, but does not work for this printer due to these belt end caps. The author should add a note to the video.

Is that true for the 4 plus/max as well? The belt holders look like a separate bracket

@@TaelonOrigin I don't have access to one. Take a look under the bed, if you can see some uprights that aren't attach to the bed itself then I'd hazard a guess that the answer would be yes.

I have max and i've spent some very recent time adjusting the bed and learned some things. i think especially with max, that bed bow can be a lot. I had tendency to always "tighten" the bed when leveling, causing the center to be the highest point after few rounds.

The bed on my N4P is domed. I assumed it was like that from the factory but now I'm not sure.@@v.h.203

Collab time???

If you haven't decided yet, I can say from my last 6 months with a Neptune 4, its definitely worth it. Best sub-$500 printer I've ever used.

i have issues with nozzle drag too, and finding more issues recently with warping and zits etc... lol. but that nozzle drag is the most annoying

@@PWIZZLE7 Same I hate it so much.

@MasonBoyd659 I started using glue stick once in awhile and leaving the plate sticky and it helps quite a bit. someone said turn combing off helps. hate to resort to glue stick but if it works it works

I’m so confused lol I just ordered one and have absolutely no idea what I’m getting myself into and I don’t have any friends that can help me understand it any better

If you're new just watch his previous video about the neptune 3 line etc. My first ever printer was the 3 Pro and to be fair it was really easy to setup and I watched his video but also watched many others just to see if there were any differences. Truthfully just take your time and do things in steps, meaning, build the printer and make sure it's all level etc and then print parts pieces etc for a while and visually see what may happen or what you may not like about the models you're printing and then move on to the next step which would be the extrusion rate of the filament - look at examples of under or over extruding and see where you lie. A lot of these videos try to pack everything in one so it's overwhelming for a ton of people and these printers work pretty well brand new out of the box with zero tuning other than making sure it's level and calibrated etc. It's best to take steps but also enjoy the printer and note inconsistencies or issues from print to print and then tune on the printer every so often that way you can pinpoint what helped and what didn't if that makes sense. It is much harder to perfect the quality when you make tons of changes all at once you know. @@loghead2437

This isn't a video for beginners. You don't need it right now, keep it simple then come back later

Awesome congrats on the new printer!

Question. I keep updating my rotation distance in my printer cfg file but extrusion amount remains the same, 47mm extruded. Any suggestions? 3:10

@@mab4110 did you find the answer yet I have the same issue

I received my Neptune 4 Pro a week ago and got an equally awesome looking flat bed mesh by simply running the automated bed mesh level, looking at the values, turning the bed leveling knobs and repeating that process two more times.

@@leonskum6864 - I didn't know about the "screws_tilt_adjust" in Klipper. Thanks! I was already impressed at how easily the automatic bed probing and the visualization provided by displaying the data allowed me to manually adjust the bed leveling on the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro. It's way faster and easier than using a paper shim, where each adjustment impacts the others.

Are you only printing with pla. I finally got petg to work with a filament dryer, flow rate 150, 30mm per sec. Z step finally adjusted. But it still gets thin every once in a while for seemingly no reason. Oh and I did a new nozzle and hotend tube.

@@Hood.Housekeeping I’ve had mine about five days and STILL trying to get a decent first level, I spent hours yesterday and got a half decent first layer and then this morning it’s so low that it is nearly scratching the bed. Worst purchase of my life so far.

Same. Impossible to get a decent first layer on this piece of junk. @@fredblogs

​@@fredblogsany luck yet?

@@thejoetandy Hi, Thank you for your email, unfortunately I have now received a refund from Creality as the Issue was beyond my capabilities. I do understand that many people would have no problem with the K1 but at 72 my knowledge is limited. All the best.

Hope it helped!

Can you do a non-PLA video?!? An accessory video such as new nozzle for abrasive filaments, replacement sheets or glass.

Also, I did the z axis step and used VHS tapes bc cassette tapes are hidden in another box! That said loosening those z axis collars and tightening, I think another moment spent noting 2 screws each. I loosened, didn't remove the screws. Thanks again!!!

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

Yeah! Elegoo did a great job with the default setting on this machine!

I was going to say man... I will be receiving mine tomorrow so I was just watching some videos and I was reconsidering my life choices after watching this! I didn't think I was going to have to get into all this! I'm going to see how it works without having to do any of this. I'm not doing anything professional... And I'm usually not too unhappy with my prints even if they have a little layer line here or there or something. But if I need it at least I know this is there. I am saving it for future reference.

And thank you so much for taking the time to share this with people.

@@chrinamint get a bambu lab p1s Best choice and easy or the A 1 mini Kinda of small a start up unit . I got rid of my Neptune glad I did !

dont follow that! i did and had to remove the whole bed to fix what it fucked up

@@royk8721 Ended up just bed leveling the normal way and then let auto bed leveling take care of the rest. Haven't had issues.

I think the difference is that you can throw in any model you wish. You need to know the number of layers/section and klipper will change the temp.

i dont use cura! i like prusa slicer much better. they have a neptune 3 pro profile that works great with increased speed settings.

For anyone having this issue in the future - check to make sure the nuts are actually contacting the screw. They're captive so they just hang there if they haven't caught any threads

google z binding and loosen the specific screws on the z-axis, not all the screws/bolts are supposed to be tight so the printer naturally compensates for imperfections in the screws

You have to add the Macro in your Printer cfg file. Works for me

When I turn the fan on with the variable control in Fluidd, it only controls the auxiliary fan. I think he wants us to turn that fan on. If the noise bothers you, you can set that value to 80% which is equvialent to "normal" mode on the UI on the printer. He has you set it to "sport" mode mode with 100% fan speed on Fluidd.

Forgot to circle back here. Elegoo had shipped my unit with my bed heater wires installed backwards. I managed to find a photo of the correct wiring. After flipping the wires, everything heats correctly now.

Same