Oh that would be awesome! I hope you share some videos if you do go down that route. You're welcome, cons are the most important thing really, that's the bit no company is going to tell you...

@@CallumColes I went for a Rat Rig build, because that is going to be way more fun.

Fair play, enjoy! You'll learn a lot I'm sure:)

Sorry for the slow reply, been away! I see you've now had a go at it, so that's great:D

Nice one, let me know how you get on. To swap the stepper I just pulled out the crimped ends from the connector block. The connector block has little plastic toggles that if carefully lifted allow the cables to slide right out. The toggles can then be pressed back down when the cables are pushed back in. Easy enough, just need to be careful

08:40 if you run the as a separate gcode file, you should be all good to go. M92 E415.000 M500 The first command sets the ESteps and the second command saves it, so it should stay as that for future use.

Hi Gareth, thanks for the comment, glad you like the video and were able to perform the upgrade! Yes sounds like the 'slice method' might be a time saving improvement, another comment also suggested this. I'll add to the description. In order to verify the E-steps, you can use the menu on the printer to extrude say 100mm of filament and check that that is indeed the amount of filament that goes into the extruder. Alternatively, if you plug the cable in to your printer you can input the commands directly and check to make sure it is working. Some slicers enable you to do this directly, but if not, then you can download a program called Pronterface, it's free. The commands you'll need are: M92 E415.00 (this sets the E steps for the Extruder to 415.00) M503 (this reports the settings, so you'll be able to see that the change above has worked) M500 (this saves the settings, so you then shouldn't need to do it again) You won't need to change E-steps for different nozzle sizes, the e-steps basically tells the printer how many steps of the stepper motor are needed to extrude a set distance of filament, so once this is set, the only time you would need to change it is if you were to change drive gear to something different or if you decided to finely calibrate your e-steps, rather than relying on the manufacturer provided value.

Thanks Steve, only just saw this one, been away and then now just catching up! I'll be back with a video this weekend. Yes the tubing on a lot of these printers is pretty awful, I've partnered with another UK manufacturer, so going to launch some PTFE tubing under 3DTomorrow too. I'm not sure whether the board on the Ender 5 has replaceable stepper drivers, if it does then changing those would sort out the stepper whine. I never really review noise, as have so many printers whirring away I cant compare them lol... IDEX would be great! Keep me posted:D

@@CallumColes unfortunately the stepper drivers are not replaceable as seems to be the norm with stock boards, so the choice is stick with Creality and upgrade to the “silent’ version of the 8 bit ender 5 plus mainboard or upgrade to a third party mainboard such as one from the bigtreetech stable of boards but due to compatibility issues you have to swap out the screen aswell. But this is something I will need to do for an IDEX conversion, so I am still considering going for the BTT octopus v1.1 which gives a lot of flexibility down the line for not only for IDEX or tool changers, or even something like the enraged rabbit carrot feeder. The ender 5 plus sounds like a drunk one man band crashing about compared to the ender 3 S1 which is so quiet. What made you decide on developing your own PTFE tube? Have you had issues with Capricorn or similar ? Would be interested in better ptfe tubing connectors, the Creality ones are terrible and so has every third party connector I have tried so far.

Nice one! Let me know how you get on. Without a doubt the best change you can do, big printers need a decent extrusion force

@@CallumColes it is warping in one corner. Tried two times. I never had warping with my other printers. Do you have any good tip? :)

@@sylvander4972 if it’s just one corner, check there’s not any oil/dirt in that corner? The ultrabase benefits from slightly hotter temperatures I find. Around 60C for PLA. I actually have a full video on bed adhesion🙌🏼

@@CallumColes nice! I will check it out

@@CallumColes what do you clean the bed with?

Nice one, good to hear you were able to get it off in tact, machining tolerances vary significantly on cheaper builds so it is entirely possible for some of these press fits to be loose enough to prise apart. In terms of the 1st and 3rd connector, do you mean on the stepper wire? If you are struggling to get the polarity correct, you can use the trial and error method from this tutorial here: reprap.org/wiki/Stepper_wiring#.22pair.22_wires_on_4_wire_motors

I actually don’t use the sensor, I probably should have mentioned that in the video! I know some people really like them, but the trouble is, when they turn the bed heat off, the print ends up detaching from the bed which makes the pause pointless… So I just leave a piece of filament in the sensor and then go straight from roll to the extruder.

You can drop the sensor down and hanging off the braket

Nice! Many ways to solve the same problem, thanks for sharing your way, hopefully others reading in the comments may consider this too. How are you finding the upgrade?

Are you talking about filament tangles? You can normally spot these before you start a print and then make sure they are removed before starting a print. All3DP has an article on it, I'll add the topic to my video to do list.

He actully bypassed the filament reader . If you can see closely , there's a piece of string (or filament) in the reader when he mounts the new extruder. You cannot mount this and use the filament reader without repositioning it also .. :)

The one ordered in this video is mounted the correct way up, since the bottom does not have any sort of fitting it’s just an open hole. I agree though the push fit brass fitting at the top is a bit lightweight and not the best of designs, this is true of the original Bondtech they copied too. I ended up pulling out the clip and threading a spare PTFE tube connector I had to make it more robust. I had a quick google and have seen another style which has a PTFE tube connector both ends, is this the one you ordered? If so, I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work the other way up, not a bad shout to avoid changing cables around. Would be interested to know how you get on with this.

Yeah the one I got had a tube fitting in both ends. I couldn't seem to find any pictures with this style of drive using a Bowden tube. I'll let you know if it fails working this way but so far so good.

@@beefymiracle1512 wish I saw your comment before, I mounted it like the video and 3 hours into a print it pushed that fitting out, I followed it back and re wired the stepper back to stock and it works perfectly now

It shouldn’t make any difference I wouldn’t have thought, left and right models normally just fit nicely back to back

@@CallumColes I ordered the left one and it fits right on without any drilling into the plate.I placed the gear on the motor shaft into my vice and knocked the motor shaft throught the gear with a cut off nail and hammer which worked quite well, I also made a keyway on the shaft with a handheld electric belt file, it helps the grub screw on the new gear get a good grip on the flat surface, agter all that I realised I could have swapped extruder motors with one of my Ender 3's motor which already has a keyway and easily removable gear, Oh well! it still works.