Glad you are happy with the upgrade!!

can you provide a link to the headset you bought?

@@dep9766 Sorry I can't find it again. I bought it from ebay but it has been like 8 months and it is no longer available. If it has all of the following words in the description it should work. Semi integrated 44mm Threadless 1.1/8" You could also ask your bike shop to recommend one. I hope this helps.

I have a clip riding on some fun trails...I'll try to get that uploaded.

Robert Blaser Dude, i can’t find H185 headset so i ordered Neco bike Headset 44 44MM ZS44 28.6 30 1 1/8 Semi-Integrated Threadless H146. If they dont fit, i can just uninstall old one and install the new one right? Dimensions are same i think

Exactly why i think its dumb as fuck for companies to have the key hole on the bottom of the bike unless there is some type of shield. Also the bikes with rear suspension in which the shock is on the bottom also exposes dirt dust water and gritty stuff to eventually work its way into thr shock n screw it up. Yamee, rattan and gds is like that. Friend e bike and Neza f1 has shock behind seat

biktrix charges 800 to add a fork but its one of the best cuz the stock is not bad

Instablaster

You can adjust the air pressure, but that just affects how stiff the shock is. I don't think there is any kind of good adjustment that would lower the front end...

Probably 2-3 inches in the front

The fork I used (and most that I've seen in this size) are setup for a threaded steerer tube config. There may be a method to adapt a quill based stem to threaded fork...but I'm not sure on that...

I love the bike. I like that I've been able to do a couple quick mods and get the bike to go 28-29 mph easily (the controller setting mod and swapping the freewheel for a 11-34T). It's great for commuting, light off road, etc. The front shock helped with ride comfort as well. I also like the price point which enabled me to get 2 of the bikes which makes rider with someone else a lot funner. The scorpion looks nice too with similar specs (or better). I like that it has a little bit of rear suspension. Mostly...I just like the value the Lectric provides. Great bang for the buck. If you have more money to spend, there are a lot of other great options to consider...

@Robert Blaser yes I agree, great bang for the buck. Im probably going to get his bike. The flywheel and front fork suspension looks a little intimidating.

The Neco H-185 headset is obsolete and I doubt Neco sells it anymore. Just look for a 1-1/8" Semi Integrated Threadless Headset with 44mm cups top and bottom. That should do it. The 44mm is the ID of the opening on the bike, top and bottom where the steerer tube of the fork goes thru. The cups are press fit into the opening top and bottom, the bearing goes inside the cups. You won't be able to use the top cup since the old fork is threaded. You might be able to use the bottom cup you will just have to try it.

Can't say for sure. That would probably depend on the bmx handlebars you want to use, how high you want them, etc

All of the details are in the forum link that I included in the description. I don't have an XP lite ...so not sure what is the same of different...

@@robertblaser9899 The most significant difference is that the tire size is much narrower. The tire size is 20 x 2.6 inches. I'm not certain if the bearings, shims (if any) and folding portion are identical to the original Lectric XP that you changed out in the video are exactly the same as on the new XP LITE. I will definitely contact Lectric Bikes to confirm any changes in the design.

You can do that as well. I've seen one other person successfully do it that way...

Yeah I finally did that on my xp and I was able to re use the original headset and folding stem...I found a shop that had the correct die that I needed 1 1/8 x 26 tpi and cut new threads on the new fork the installation was pretty straightforward. The new fork really smooths out the ride...

This is where I got mine: www.ebay.com/itm/162243744397

The new headset I used came with a new crown race. I think most headsets do...

The fork would likely work, but I'm not sure about the other parts

@@robertblaser9899 can you tell me the dimension on that fork if not to much bother I would appreciate? Can have idea with my tire!

The correct size is a bit tricky to find. You need a shock that fits a 20" fat tire

Link?

I am 6'1" and about 210 pounds. I think I have my shock set to about 90-95 psi. The red lever is set to the softest setting.

@@robertblaser9899 Thanks Robert for the reply.

Yeah, would be easy mod. I just liked the look without front fender

You'll just need to ship around and find one with similar specs. Sorry, I don't have a link for a direct replacement without doing a bunch of digging. Good luck!

The screw came with my headset. But I believe the bolt size is an M6. The length can vary depending on how many spacers you have...I think mine was about 1.5 inches long or so. Wouldn't hurt if the bolt was a touch longer than needed as it would just screw down into the tube.

@@robertblaser9899 Thanks. I just used the one spacer that came with the Neco H185 headset which was the cover. Also, what length of bolt did you use when installing the star nut in the steer tube of the fork? Do you mean that your screw came with your folding stem tube instead? I ordered my Neco H185 headsets from the same Ebay seller you listed and there were no screws included with it.

Check the link in the description. Should have all the part numbers and links

Please see the forum link in my video description above. It has all parts and links...

See the link I posted i video description above. That link has all the info/parts needed for the upgrade...

You'll probably be fine with the original shock. The shock will smooth out any bumps on the road...so still useful for on road, but not a must

I installed the new crown race that came with the H185 headset onto the new suspension fork. I left the old/stock crown race on the rigid fork. Install was very easy. I put the new crown race in the oven for 10min at 200 deg. Then dropped the crown race on the fork steerer tube. Then used a 4 or 5 foot long 1 1/4 inch pvc pipe and put it onto the steerer tube (it presses nicely against the crown race). Then I turned everything upside down and tapped the pvc pipe firmly onto the ground several times. Just the weight of the fork was enough to set the crown race after a few hits on the ground.

@@robertblaser9899 I see. Got it. Thanks.

Top of tube to top of threads. The distance isn't too critical. There shouldn't be any play up and down. You tighten down the screw into the star but just enough to remove all play (not overly tight...but no play). If you've tightened that screw pretty tight and there is still vertical play, then your steerer tube is likely slightly too long. If that's the case then you'd either need to shorten your tube just a little more or put an extra small spacer in there to take out the play

@@robertblaser9899 Thanks Robert for your help. I'm going to re-measure and cut the tube again.

I got my air suspension fork installed. Thanks for your help. I posted a question on the EBR forum for you to answer about hitting a bump every now and then.

@@robertblaser9899 If you have play after installing a new fork make sure the cups are all the way in and both bearings are installed. The crown race must also be all the way down on the fork steerer tube.

I love it. Smooths out all of the harsh bumps

I got several of the sizes on the optional spacer...but ended up using the thickest one. But any size (or none) could be used. One of my shocks came with star nut and one didn't. Some of my headsets came with star nuts and some didn't...so kind of hit or miss. They are cheap on Amazon if you need to buy star nut separately...

Thank you sir for responding. I was asking the screw goes into the star nut that holds the stem and the suspension fork together; do I have to buy that screw or it came with the star nut?

@@jesshsu4418 gotcha...I guess my answer is still essentially the same. I got the screw along with some items but not others. So it seems inconsistent if you'll get the screw included. Regardless, it's a standard size screw you can get from anywhere

Not sure

I didn't attach the front fender. If you want to reattach the front fender, you'd need to make a little bracket to mount be the wheel bolt

Expect about an hour labor, so whatever your local bike shop rate is for an hour of labor--could be $35 or $100

Not sure...seems possible??

@@robertblaser9899 If I try that route then I'll post back here letting you know. Thanks

There have been a few other people that have made it work with other headsets. Look through the comments. Really, any headset will work that has similar specs (threadless, 44mm, etc). Worst case, you'd just have to swap the cups. That's really the only advantage of the H185, it is very similar to the H184 and shares mostly the same parts...so it wasn't necessary to replace the cups.

The existing stem (with quill) is made to be installed on a threaded fork. That means that the fork has threads on the steerer tube and you use a nut to secure the fork to the bike frame. You could take the stem off and the bike fork will remain in tact. With threadless forks, you use a collar to secure the fork to bike frame. And for the folding stem has that collar integrated into the stem. So the general answer is that yes, you need the new stem. Having said that, you could probably find a separate collar and spacers to hold the fork in place and then just mount the original stem into the fork tube using quill...but that's kind of a hack. Not saying it wouldn't work, just that it's not the normal method

I got a couple H185 headsets. One of them came with a star nut, one didn't. Also...one of my forks also came with a star nut. Neither is guaranteed to come with the star nut...but you can just buy them on amazon. They are cheap. And yes, they are 1 1/8".

@@robertblaser9899 Thanks, my suspension fork came with a star nut.

I don't have the exact length and mine would have been slightly different because of the spacer I installed. Just put it together and measure and add an extra inch for the inside of stem collar

Haha, I probably should post a follow up video. It's been a long time and everything is still working awesome!!

The crown race came with the h185 headset and I think most headsets come with one as well...

All of the parts I used are linked in the forum post I put a link for in the description

@@robertblaser9899 not sure where to look

Did you see my link in the description?

@@robertblaser9899 no

The link is still in the description. Go check it out

I think most any semi integrated 44mm hub will work

I didn't put the front fender back on, I left it off. If you want the front fender back on, you need to make shift some brackets as the new fork doesn't have a mounting hole for the fender

Ok I see now that the forks come with a star nut zip tied to them.

I think it'd probably work...??

A decent quality multi use metal tube cutter for copper or aluminum should work. They are not very expensive.

The H185 is 'easier' because the H184 (stock headset) and the H185 both use the EXACT same cups. So you don't have to swap the cups in the frame and it's guaranteed to have no issues. If you can't find an H185 headset, its still can be done and you have two options. First option is just to get any 1 1/8" threadless, 44mm, semi-integrated headset and it will work. You'll just have to potentially swap the cups from the frame which is a bit more work...but still very doable. A bike shop could do it in 15min. The second option is to find a headset with similar 44mm cups that uses retainer ball bearings and it might work with the existing cups and you wouldn't have to swap the cups... Long story short, you can make it work with any compatible headset...worst case you'd just have to swap the cups.

@@robertblaser9899 Awesome! Thanks a lot for your help!!

I think it was about 150-180 bucks total

Nope

There should be a link in the description with a list of all items I bought/used

None of those parts are available now. Guess sell your XP 1.0 and get a 2.0

One of my forks did and the other didn't. So could go either way. They are easy to grab on Amazon if not...

Yeah, just size to fit the style of handlebars you are putting on

@@robertblaser9899 I have an Ecotric 20 inch folding bike i wanna Put the air suspension in BMX handlebars plus go to an 11 Toothpaste BMX pedals But I don't want the handlebars too low

No, headset is tight

Not sure what happened to the thread on the forum... Unfortunately I don't have the list outside of that forum post

Yes, the folding is still the exact same as before with the parts I removed. And yes, you need to cut the steerer tube...otherwise the handlebar stem would sit about 4-5 inches taller and you'd have to fill that with the spacers I linked in the forum post. So you don't HAVE to cut the tube...but it would probably look funny and be too high. Alternatively, if you don't want to keep the folding handlebar feature, I've seen somebody ditch the folding stem and just use a bmx style handlebar and he just used spacers and it looked ok.

Which stem are you using? The original or the replacement I used? Or a different one? And where is it loose and how much play is there?

@@robertblaser9899 the amazon one that you provided with link, a replacement one. Theres a lot of room, very wobbly, its right where the headset goes, thats where it is loose and when i front break the whole handlebar and stem moves. .looks like the headset wont tighten all the way...

It was a NECO H185 headset. You'll have to search around and see if you can find one anywhere. Sometimes they are hard to find

@@robertblaser9899 So I purchased one assuming that it was it and now my bike is all torn apart and now I have to try to find the same exact one and the looks of it it is almost nearly to impossible to find

It doesn't technically have to be that EXACT headset. Just look around for one that has same/similar specs and bearings, etc

@@robertblaser9899 I tried to find any but I cannot find any that resemble it . Sorry I’m not really familiar with bikes headsets

If you buy the unthreaded fork only, it won't work. Check out my list of required parts in the link in description. I have all the parts required for conversion. Basically you need a new headset and handlebar stem that supports unthreaded. With all those components swapped, unthreaded works. So to be clear, the frame of the bike can support either threaded or unthreaded. You just need the appropriate headset/stem/fork combo to support either threaded or unthreaded. Hopefully that answers your question.

@@robertblaser9899 okay awesome! I understand now!

Star but usually comes with the headset. Although I bought two of the forks and one of the forks actually did come with a star nut but the other one didn't

Really.

Yep. This gramma agrees!

I find it gratifying that a boob toober under 60 yrs. of age is actually performing a mechanical operation which requires an attention span of more than 2 minutes.. Good for him.......... Disappointing for the rest of you.....

Exactly lol, i stopped at 2:30. I'm like "nope, this is too advanced now" 🤣

😂

I believe it was a pasak

Hasn't happened to me. And that's lucky you didn't wreck when it broke!!

Heard of a ton of people wrecking this way having nothing to hold on to. Heard about pedal issues aswell, which I would assume they addressed the issues in their 2.0

Yes. The original folding stem mounts onto a threaded steerer tube. So you need a new one that mounts onto a threadless steerer tube.

That is a typical reply a vendor will send when a damaged product is received. You don't have to accept it if you don't want to. Ask for a full refund and a return shipping label since you did not receive what you ordered. Challenge the payment with the credit card company or PayPal. Many times the vendor will quickly give in an issue a refund and simply ask you discard the item instead of paying for shipping back to them.

It's been hard to find lately. Ebay was the best place a year ago...but not sure where now

@@robertblaser9899 would this work? www.ebay.com/itm/Ritchey-Comp-Press-Fit-Semi-Integrated-44mm-1-1-8-Bike-Headset/193614045465

@@robertblaser9899 The old Neco H-185 is obsolete.

I'm sure most bike shops would install...

Seems like the new stem had a bit more play than the original... But not horrible

@@robertblaser9899 it that possibly because of the threads on the top of the old shocks?

I should clarify, I don't have any play in the stem and headset bearings. The only slight play I have is in the hinge of the new folding handlebar stem. It just had a looser tolerance than the original

@@robertblaser9899 I have bmx style bars just wanted to make sure

@@robertblaser9899 I think u are getting some play because you didn't change the cup..I just got those forks and ran into the same problem so I took off the original cups installed the new headset with the new cups etc..

A different one. See the link in description, I give a list of all parts I used

@@robertblaser9899 I see. For the stock stem, would I still be able to use that if ever I put a new fork

@@whateverdude3080 the stock stem is for threaded forks. You can use it on threaded steerer tubes

@@robertblaser9899 Thanks for the tips sir, Very helpful ! Planning to do mine in 2 weeks if all the parts arrive.

@@whateverdude3080 let me know how it goes. Happy to answer any more questions you have...

No, it fits the smaller fatty tires

Need a threadless version

doesn't need to be folding, but needs to be threadless. a folding stem supports the bike's original functionality.

@@smfamily2009 And what's the problem using the same folding stem on a threaded version

@@phazon4 New fork steerer tube needs to be the same length as the old fork if its threaded.,

No, I just used a 1 1/4" PVC pipe. Several methods out there. But I just used the pipe only. I heated the crown race for 10min or so in the oven (200 deg). Then dropped the crown race on steerer tube. Put the pipe over steerer tube resting on crown race. Holding the fork onto pipe, flip everything over and tapped the pipe several times on the ground. Just the weight of the fork when the pipe hit the ground was enough to seat the race quite easily. Just took 2 or 3 taps...

@@robertblaser9899 Thanks, I have the fork and folding stem ordered. Now if I can find a headset that will work I'll be set. I guess they don't make the neco anymore? At least I can't seem to find one?

@@glennfuqua6345 they do, it's just harder to find because Neco is business to business only. So you have to find someone that carries Neco products. I got mine on eBay

As of July 7, Ebay is out, so is Amazon. 😩

What would it take to use the stock folder with the new fork?