If you bust an extractor in a hole....you are totally fukd!!

Your set looks fine. But this is not how it's used. This one is for screws with broken off or completely damaged head. There is another type, which is used in a drill, to catch on a stripped screw head. Two different tools. Read my other comment.

​@@palopodNo wonder mine didn't work.

Glad to help and thanks for the beer fund contribution.

Yeah an impact is a really bad choice. I've found a variable speed drill at a slow speed is fine to get it started as long as you use a light touch on the trigger. Hand tools can definitely be a safer option if you prefer.

This comment save my so much $$$$ bro. I tapped the extractor bit into the stripped bolt. And it would not work with a drill. The C Wrench did the job lol 3 days later

How do you get it to bite when it’s flush with the wood?

@@donovanberserk4993drill a hole in the center with the reverse drill bit and then hammer on the extractor bit before cranking it with a wrench or something

Thank you... Much appreciated.

Not worst case. Worse than this is when the screw is installed for years and through vibratory abuses is broken below the surface about a half inch down the shank. Now, will the extractor bits work on just a shank, without widening the hole?

@@DorkPrince in those cases try drilling out the shank. Then rethread the hole. You may have to make the hole bigge but you still have the item you are working on. Just have to improvise sometimes.

@@bamaphoenix9873 that's pretty much where I am with it. It's in a "doorway" bulkhead between a kitchen counter and a half height wall; I'm trying to fully remove the screw to replace with the next size up so I need to get all the old threads out too (although I suppose that's not all that critical, come to think of it, might even help to leave shreds of old threads in). I'm sure I'll manage it, I just don't want any more damage than necessary. Of course, I might just go ahead and core it, dowel it, and redrill it. There's hardly any weight on it, it's just the abuse of slamming the gate shut over the years that broke the screw. If it's ever removed, the damage and repair of removing the old screw will definitely be easily covered by paint. So it's really not a big deal.

@@DorkPrince Yes, yes ... the last part of what you said ..... concerning drilling it completely out and dowelling, then redrilling will be the best ... especially with cabinets. I think that will work fine and even be more sturdy. Let me(us) know how it works out. You can also use wooden golf tees or a bundle of toothpicks if the hole isn't big enough for a standard dowel.

I have the same problem with my bike does it actually work I have theses and also have a hand impact driver trying to get screws out as they are worn on the heads

Man I’ve been having this same problem and I was trying to figure out, how and the heck I was gonna get that screw out of there

Wow, for $70 I would hope they last quite a while. Pricey. I know the extractor bits break, but the set in the video was very lightly used. I actually broke it a couple of minutes before that video was filmed. Forgot to press record on the camera so I had to do it again which was really annoying at that moment. I wish I got that on camera, would have been a more entertaining video.

Glad it helped!

I'm sure Project Farm did a much more extensive test than anything I'd ever do for a screw extractor. I rarely need a screw extractor myself, but I was just annoyed in the video at how crappy the ones I had were to drill out the screw head. It worked fine though and for the rare circumstance I need one it's enough. Penetrating oil in a metal on metal situation is a good idea though. I've never needed anything more for grip myself for the extractor portion as long as I drilled it out well. I'm glad to know that Screw Out was confirmed to be a good extractor... that confirms my research. An impact driver would add rotational torque which can be helpful, but impact drivers are not as easy to control speed with so I'd try with a drill first.

Exactly! Guy knows nothing! Certified KZfaq DIY.

The threads on the drill bit in this set are reversed for this application. So you need to run the drill bit in reverse to actually drill. This is typical of screw extractor bits.

@@DIYWithAaron , Thanks for the quick reply.

Absolutely. Luckily my extractor held and I didn't have to fetch another tool.

mum seems wise

Yep, sometimes you have to play around and be a bit persistent. Glad it worked out for you.

In case it grabs you don’t want to further tighten the issue…

Many extractor sets come with a reverse drill bit threaded in the opposite direction so that it drills in the reverse setting. This way if it grabs the screw/bolt the bit rotates the fastener out instead of tightening it further. But I did make an error in my video... I was always under the assumption all extractor sets came with a reverse drill bit. However, a viewer noticed and commented that the set I was using in the video actually came with a regular bit that should have been used in the regular forward drive. I don't know why a manufacturer would include a regular bit since a reverse drill bit would be far better in my opinion (since it reduces the risk of exasperating the problem by digging the fastener in further). If you have the option, I'd suggest using a set with a reverse drill bit and extractor combination.

Sounds like quite a mess. Do you have a hex head bit that size that you can use in place of the Allen wrench? You'll get alot more leverage for torque with a hex bit over an Allen wrench. I'd use the hex bit with a screwdriver handle rather than a drill for something so small like that. You can also give the bit a light tap or two with a hammer to push it deep into the set screw for extra grip. That's what I'd try first.

Typically the bits for drilling are reverse bits that come with the extractor and both the bit and extractor are typically hardened for drilling metal.

I know they make micro extractor bits for those little screws in toys and computers. Can't imagine they go any smaller than that.

Yes, it can be done. Center punch the broken bolt, then drill it out enough for the extractor to get a grip like I did with a screw. Bolts can be trickier in some ways depending on if they are fused by rust or otherwise seized in place.

Reverse bit... that's what comes with these extractor sets.

@@DIYWithAaron thanks yes I bought a kit with no bits just extractors as I'm in central America. So I'll look for a reverse bit . Thanks

I think it could still work with a regular bit. You could try it if you want assuming it's worth the risk. Not sure how important a reverse bit is, never had the need to try differently than what my set had.

@@DIYWithAaron would you put the regular bit in reverse or just forward it wouldn't work reverse? Thanks

A regular bit is designed to drill only in forward. So you drill it in forward and then try the extractor in reverse. See if it works, if it doesn't you can always drill a little deeper or wider with a reverse bit later as long as there's more screw head.

Only if you have enough material to actually use a screw extractor on.

Yep

Yeah, you're right. I thought all extractors came with reverse drill bits. Apparently, that's not the case. So I guess drill whatever way your drill bits are oriented for.

Screw extractors are fussy sometimes though. When they don't work, it ends as more of a horror flick.

If you have more room in the head of the screw, drill deeper and try again.

@@DIYWithAaron Thanks for replying. I dug deeper and tried again with the current size and a size up and even tried using a rubber band. I think this screw is lost

@@GForce4 Sometimes that happens. Screw extractors usually work, but sometimes it's just not meant to be. Sorry!

If the screw isnt to flushet u can use a dremel with a disc

With these screw extractors, I'd use a regular hand drill without any impact function. I would not suggest using a hammer drill on the hammer setting or an impact driver with any screw extractor set.

@@DIYWithAaron thats good to knw these sets are mostly cheap and using the right settings is critical thanks for the fast reply

Ouch. Unfortunately... sometimes you get what you pay for.

Huh... did you break a heli-coil? Not sure what you are getting at?

@@DIYWithAaron hey yep it broke of half way down hole.......they are chrome Mollie......spring like .....looking for another way .thinkn edm burn it out...?...cheers

It's going to drill. The threads are in reverse to a normal drill bit. So to drill you need to put the drill into reverse. These reverse drill bits are typical with screw extractor sets.

My sympathies. There may be some other videos on KZfaq that deal with your exact predicament. Perhaps you'll find good tips on dealing with that particular situation.

Should be safe. You might want to wear eye protection if you want to be extra cautious.

Hmmm... that's a good point. If you have a screw stripped on a vertical surface, then do what you can to keep pressure on it... granted it is much easier when gravity is working with you. I just filmed this as a quick demo since some of the videos I saw were so lengthy or didn't tell you basic info. Something to think about for a follow-up video at some point.

As an aircraft mechanic who has literally removed hundreds of stripped screws, extractors work no matter the orientation of the screw. Most have been overhead with some being vertical. I use the 1/8 Snapon extractor. 1/8 drill is used in the normal direction, not reverse so the hole can be drilled deep enough. Then I use a 7/16 socket. The only problem that arises is not getting the hole deep enough for the extractor to bite.

Sorry to hear that. You might not have done anything wrong (although I hope you kept the drill in reverse when using the extractor bit). Screw extractors can of be a pain even when you do everything right.

@@DIYWithAaron I actually did it by hand with a adjustable wrench but yeah I was turning it counter clockwise. Just can't wrap my head around it.... I was trying to get a screw out that the head sheared off but hey oh well, now the screw extractor replaced the screw and holds my hook (It's the hook for my Quickjack)

Since your hook is in place, I guess "Mission Accomplished!"

Oops. 😞

You can try drilling deeper into the screw and trying the extractor again. Sometimes extractors require persistence. Also, there are times extractors do fail. It's not a sure thing.

They can be a pain. Generally they will work, but often require persistence and ample amounts of swearing to function correctly. Unfortunately, that's pretty much the norm with screw extractors.

Just use a bit that will be large enough to drill out the damaged area, but stay smaller than the head of the fastener so you don't drill the whole head off. If in doubt, start with a smaller bit and work your way up if it is not sufficient.

Totally agree. As for warranty, I don't think there are any Sears stores anywhere near me. Haven't seen one in years.

Sorry to hear that. Check to see if you have a regular or reverse bit by comparing the one your using to a regular bit. If it is a regular bit, then run the drill in the forward. If your bit is dull try a different bit. Screw extractors often require a bit of patience since they don't always work the first time... and there are times they just don't seem to work at all. Nature of the beast.

Amen to that. Real shame though.

That's exactly how you use an extractor set!

Not in this case! Some extractor sets use counter clockwise drill bits, or even have the two pieces combined into a single reversible piece, but not what he is using in this video. Those are standard drill bits, with accompanying extractor bits that will run in reverse. Please just look at his drill bits and compare to any picture of a standard bit, and you can see that the direction of the spiral is the same. That’s why he ends up complaining about the bad bits - because he’s using them in the wrong direction.

Holy crap... you are right. Good catch. I thought all extractors came with reverse bits... never thought to check it since it makes zero sense to use a regular bit. Why the hell even bother including the bits if they're just some generic general purpose bits?