Hi Carl, thanks for watching the video! Usually, drip is used when the plants are in rows. The dripline has a supply manifold or header at the edge of the field, and the actual tubing is up against the stem of the plant, leaving space between to walk and till. Of course, this really only applies to annual crops that have relatively small root zones. Perennials such as landscape ornamentals, blueberries, peaches, etc. have larger root zones or footprints and you have to put the dripline out toward the edges of the root zone. I'm in SC and we get patchy rain as well. I once installed a Netafim drip system on a blueberry farm in the winter. First season, 100% increase in yield over a previous, not so great drip tape system. I was the highest bidder and he said it was totally worth the cost. Get with your local University's Ag Extension office, I'm sure they know of farms local to you that use drip and you can get some data. Definitely check out Netafim's websites and content, they are the worldwide masters of drip agriculture.

So sorry that I'm just now being shown this comment. Dripline products that check valves built into the drippers are the best choice for slope. Run your dripline level along the slope, not up and down the hill.

Yes you can. You should use a product with check valves and run your lines horizontal and parallel with the top of the slope instead of running down the slope.

Hi, thanks for watching and commenting! The best distance on the drippers depends on how far your cabbage is spaced. For annual crops, it's best to have the drippers right on top of the plant. How long you run the dripline and the soil type will determine how far laterally and deep the water will go. To contrast, for perennial plants, it's best to position the drippers on the outside edge of the roots to encourage further root growth.

Sorry I'm just now seeing this comment. But yes, it shouldn't be a problem. I don't think it's in danger of being crushed or anything, seems sturdy enough.