Thank you. Love you too

Thank you so much for the comment. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I too used OSMO Poly-x oil on my kitchen counter tops and that was 8 years ago. They're still in great shape. When I started building and wanted to choose an oil finish, Osmo is the first one I thought of and I love it on a guitar. I've tried many other oil finishes but none do the job like OSMO. Good luck with your guitar building. ✌️

Thank you brother. ✌️

Thank you so much. I have basically given myself over to what guitar building does for me. I can't imagine my life without it now. Thank you for joining my journey. ✌️

Thank you! Peace

Thanks brother.

Thanks Mark, I love OSMO. And the handmade comment should have actually been "Homemade". You know what I meant. I want it as close to perfect as I can get! Thanks for the comment brother. ✌️

Hi Stephen, thank you so much for the comment. I first used OSMO on a kitchen counter about 8 years ago. It still looks great! I love OSMO. I really like using the extra thing as a penetrating sealer (I didn't use it on the counters) then going with the hardwax oil on top of that. Is just the best oil finish I've ever tried. Good luck on your guitar building journey and thanks for the tip! ✌️

That's awesome. I'm so glad the video was helpful. Congratulations on your builds and keep on with it brother. I can't stop! You can always shoot me some photos on Instagram @sweettguutars! Thank you for the comment, you are too kind. ✌️🤍

Thank you brother, it's coming soon. I didn't want to rush this one! Peace

No Steve can't trade any of the walnut he has and it's gonna be really expensive. I got that piece from Mark @ Coratree Guitars as a gift! I am glad to hear from you. I hope you are doing well. Peace brother.

Not saying I won't buy any from Steve I'm sure I'll end up with some of it. I do have some other things from him. I got the new neck radius hold down jig with a 12"-18" compound block and a set of the fit all templates including the neck.

Oh yeah, I have another video dropping at 11:00AM EST. Today! Check it out and give me a call one evening.

Hey man, thanks for the comment. Let me start by saying that OSMO is my favorite Oil finish ever. I've got tru-oil, Crimson High Build, tried and true, etc... OSMO is just so forgiving compared to everything else. It's a hardwax oil so not like what you're using. Tru-Oil has a bunch of dryers in it and I don't know if the wipe on poly you have is oil or water based but the same is true with it if it's oil and no wax at all. I've never used poly on a guitar but I have used tru-oil and I actually like tru oil if I'm going for a higher gloss in the end. There are so many factors that can cause the issues you are having. I would say this and the same is true with any film build finish. With tru-Oil I don't wipe off the excess. I let it cure completely and then sand it flat and wipe on the next coat. Once you've got about 6-10 coats on the guitar you would flat sand it with 1200-1500-2000 wet dry paper and then go to the buff with it. The problem with both of the finishes you are using is that they re-wet the coat underneath what you are applying and that's where the syrup feeling comes in. With OSMO once it's cured the coat on top doesn't affect the cost underneath and you build the finish over a period of about a week. Tru-Oil and poly are both faster drying so you can apply another coat in around 24 hours or even less in a controlled environment. Try my method and see if you get better results. So to recap, Start with a clean dry surface. Apply the finish, leave it alone, making sure you get a nice finish with a foam brush or you can use a rag but make sure you don't leave huge streaks or you'll have a hard time getting them out. After that coat has cured sand it flat with -1200 grit on a hard block and clean the surface good. Apply the next coat and leave it to cure. Continue doing this until you've got a nice film build on the surface. Final sand with 1200-1500-2000 up to 3000 grit. Once you get to that level you can switch to a compound bar or liquid compound and work the finish to the desired sheen! Let me know if this helps. I think you're doing the right method but with the wrong products! That's my take. Also watch a few Big D guitars to figure out the Tru-Oil application, he uses it almost exclusively and Bonehead Guitars uses Wipe on Poly on all his guitars so find a finish video from him! I really hope this helps. ✌️

@@SweetTGuitars thanks man! I will give the build up and rub out method a shot on my tests. That makes sense about the previous coat having a bit of melt in causing the problem. That osmo sounds like some awesome stuff. I have watched a good bit of big d but will go back through and watch some more. Also will checkout bonehead. Thanks for the info!

Hey brother. Thank you. I would go straight over the stain with the OSMO if it were me. You don't want to take a chance of something being incompatible with the OSMO plus you don't want to have to sand it now that it's stained!! Just be really light handed and apply the OSMO in thin layers over a few days. ✌️🤍

Hey brother, sorry for the delay. I let each coat cure for at least 4 hours but prefer to let it cure overnight and I have altered my method since posting this video. I no longer wet sand OSMO. I discovered that using 2000 grit wet dry paper as an applicator on the first 2 coats actually does a really good job at filling the grain and leveling out any small scratches or imperfections. I have also started to buff the guitar after allowing the OSMO to cure for 7 days with microcrystalline wax!!

Hey Todd, just wondering why you won’t answer the few questions I asked.

Thanks for the reply, I will try it on my next build, tried to send you a couple of pictures to show you the results of the Osmo application but it bounced back.

I'm flattered man. I'm fine with it. Anything to boost my presence would be appreciated! Thank you for the sub and the kind words. I really do appreciate it. I'm so into this there's no turning back now. ✌️

Send me a link when you decide to post something. I'll sub you back right now!

@@SweetTGuitars cool I'll be touch with you as I'm starting to put things together and keep ya posted! Thanks for responding!

@@SweetTGuitars i'll do that!

@@SweetTGuitars your video is up!! be sure to check the description box for a PDF I put together that has helped out my channel...hope you can get a lot out of it as well!! here's the video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jq11q9qJptq-oZ8.html

In my opinion, any wood that looks good natural will benefit from OSMO. Even stained wood will look great with OSMO Poly-x as a top coat. It's the best oil finish I've used. It does have a light Ambering effect so that will need to be considered. It looks killer on mahogany, Limba, Walnut and even maple and poplar look great with OSMO. What I really love about OSMO is that it feels so natural. Even the gloss is really silky feeling and doesn't have a plastic feel. You won't be sorry putting it on anything made of wood. I finished my kitchen countertops with OSMO Poly-x 7 years ago and they still look great. It's also food safe and child toy safe once cured. I recommend OSMo over a other oil finishes. The Crimson high build oil is also great but it has to ship from the UK. OSMO is available through many sources in the US. Get you some and try it out. You will love it. ✌️

@@SweetTGuitars Thanks man your guitars look so sweet..haha. May I ask your opinion on a few basic tools you use? Having heck finding a proper band saw unless I spend mucho cash so what do you recommend/use and what #7 and #4 planes are you using brand wise?

Hey brother. You don't really need a bandsaw. The one I use, I paid $40 on Marketplace. You can use a good jigsaw with great results. The blades are what really matters. Get good blades and a $50 jigsaw! I don't have a #7 plane, I've got 2-#6's which are adequate. I find I like jointing with a #5 which I also have 2 of. 3-#4's and 2-#3's at this point, plus several block planes. Man hand planes are a loaded topic. If you're a handy guy, buy some vintage Stanley's or miller's Falls, both killer brands. You don't need them 100 years old. Anything from the late 1950's and before with the exception of the ones made during WWII will be fine. The WWII planes were made in some cases with cheaper metal and some have plastic adjusters. Stanley, Millers Falls, Dunlap, Fulton and Craftsman all had really good planes back in the day. Most of those brands were actually made by Stanley or Millers Falls. I personally like a solid front on the frog and an adjustment to move the frog back and forth below the depth adjustment screw! Almost all old and new Stanley's have that, some Millers Falls do. I actually have a Wards Master #4 that I love and it does a great job. I paid $26 including shipping on eBay for it. I have since bought an older Stanley #4 but it needs restoring. On the number 6, you can get a Number 6 Stanley for $60-$200 depending on year and the shape it's in, A Millers Falls is about the same price. Fulton also made a pretty good #6 which is what I have. I paid $60 for it. It's from the late 50's and came to me in almost perfect condition, just needed sharpening. I will warn you, once you start buying planes it becomes a quest for the awesome ones like a 100 year old Stanley which can cost. You can find a great plane if you're willing to shop, bid and then restore a little on it. Stay away from the newer ones sold on Amazon . They are junk! An old Craftsman is better than a new Stanley in my opinion. The metal is just superior. If you find one you like, email me and I'll try and help you out. Good luck! ✌️

@@SweetTGuitars Copy that. Thanks man

So you used 3011 gloss to finish but do you use something other than 3011 when you started with your first coats?

I love this style of video thank you so much for sharing.

Thank you man, I currently have stopped doing anything with paint on the channel. It was getting out of control! I'll check and see what I can do. Thanks for the comments. ✌️