Many thanks for your super feedback. Cheers. Peter

Hi Bonnie, Many thanks. Peter

Adrian Core Hi Adrian, Many thanks. It is a great help to receive comments like this. Peter

Excellent. Good luck. Peter

Hi Craig, I use Osmo on almost every project that I make. It is the easiest finish to apply, it gives consistent results and always looks great. Cheers. Peter

Woodgate425 Cheers Mike. Peter

Tamás Elkán Hi Tamas, I am in the process of making the video of the mitre saw station. It is at least another 2-3 weeks from completion but is looking good so far. When half of the workshop is a film studio it has to look tidy - you should see it when I am not filming ! Peter

+Darrel Hi Darrel, I have never been disappointed with Osmo on any of my furniture projects. Peter

Glad it was helpful!

I agree it is excellent. Have you seen my new dining table and benches done with Osmo? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j8p4admV2pe9dKM.html Peter

Great tip!

I'm so glad!

Hen Schum Hi Henrie, Good to talk to you again. Thank you very much for the information about the pads - who makes them? Peter

Hello Peter, I follow you everywhere ;-) Next time your in the Netherlands you know where you can drink a cup of tea. The maker off micro-mesh is micro-surface.com. You can buy it everywhere, even at Axminster :-) I used the 3" x 4" pads and I love them. Buy Henrie.

Hen Schum Many thanks. Peter

Hi Jerod, Many thanks. Peter

Hi Dan, Many thanks. Peter

Hi Kat, I would stop at 150 grit but 180 grit will do if that is all you have. If you go any finer then the oil tends not to soak in so well. Allow plenty of time for the first coat. Subsequent coats dry much more quickly. Peter

Hi Tony, Unfortunately any oil based product will soak into an emulsion finish. You may need to let the Osmo dry and then dilute (equal parts) some PVA with water and paint that over the affected area. Let that dry and then redo that small area with emulsion. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Hi Peter, that's great. Thanks for the advice and all the best for the channel, some great videos on here and they're very well done. Tony

Hi Graham, It is a good idea where possible. Cheers. Peter

The fumes are not as bad as some other products. It takes about 14 days for 99% curing and so do not worry. I brush on and then wipe off with a lint free cloth. This way it dries much more quickly and you can then build up 3 or 4 thin coats in 2 days and it is dry completely after 3. Peter

+Jonathan Stirrup Hi Jono, I would only give a rub in the odd spot if there was a blemish, perhaps a bit of dust or a scratch. I always find that the first coat seems to take a long time to dry yet the subsequent coats dry more quickly. Try not to put too thick a coat on at any stage - I prefer using a number of thinner coats rather than fewer but thicker coats. Peter

Terry De'ath Hi Terry, I think that different situations require different methods of applying finishes such as Osmo. I favour the brush on/wipe off technique but have also seen how the Osmo experts like to do it. I think that any method that delivers the results that satisfy the user must be good. Keep up the good work. Cheers. Peter

Hi Mike, It should be fine. The only thing is that I know that Osmo Top Oil is food safe - you might want to check this for PolyX. Peter

Hi Jack, You could but using the white, non abrasive, pads by hand works just as well. Peter

I used white Manuel pads on a couple of metres of benchtop and it turned out very well...but looking at the remaining 14 metres, I doubted I had the time or the arm strength to do it. Festool Vlies white pads on an ETS 150/5 on slowest speed was easy and the finish is even better than the manual approach...you can even use a clean pad after the final coat to polish/burnish it. I used a small piece of manual pad to wipe down the surface along the grain after about 5 minutes. The only downside is that the stickiness of the oil tends to wreck the Vlies... one coat on about 8m of 600mm benchtop was about the limit for a single pad.

I like to apply several thin coats of Osmo rather than brushing on and leaving it. I might use a brush to apply the oil (or a non abrasive pad) but will wipe the excess off with a lint free cloth. Osmo do not recommend sanding between coats but it is useful to use a non abrasive pad to remove any "nibs". This is best done at least 24 hours after the application but 48 hours would be better. Peter

Thank you Peter that clarifies things a lot.

+Darrel Hi Darrel, You question comes at an interesting time. In January 2013 I made a set of side tables that we use every day in our sitting room. One is always in the sunlight the others only get the sun for short periods each day. None of the tables need any refinishing but the one that is in the sun all the time will probably need a simple "wipe-on" coat at the end of this year. It will take about 2 minutes to do and requires no sanding at all - that is the beauty of Osmo - it can be touched up so easily. All of my other furniture items are fine. Peter

+New Brit Workshop (Peter) Thanks for that Peter - that's good to know.

Hi Andrew, Yes it would work perfectly. The Festool Vlies are excellent. Peter

Hi Abbas, Yes, Osmo will work well on your chess board. It would be a good idea to do the bottom and the edges first and have it on some small blocks face down to do that. After applying the Osmo use a rag to wipe off the bottom of the edges in case of any build up that may go onto the top (which is now underneath). When that is dry, do the top and the edges again with the blocks underneath the bottom. Again wipe off any excess at the bottom of the sides. This way the interface between the two sessions of applying Osmo will be indistinguishable. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Peter...thank you very much for your advice. I will send you a picture of the chess board once I have completed applying the finish. Thanks again. Abbas

Woodgate425 Yes, I have experienced some longer drying times but mainly when it has been cold or I had failed to adequately ventilate during drying. Now technically, being an oil, it will never "dry" as such and will continue to cure for several weeks after application. What I now do if I have some tackiness is to rub it with a lint free cloth and it is then perfect. Despite the Osmo guys saying that I should not do it I too de-nib between coats but mainly because I always get a bit of dust settling due to draughts in the workshop. Peter

Hi Emma, You should not need to do an intermediate rub with a pad unless you have some uneveness to overcome. Just put on a second thin coat and take it from there. Using thin coats does make for a better finish but it may also mean that you need an extra coat. Good luck. Peter

Yes, I use a lot of veneered MDF and always use Osmo on it. Take a look at my Pedestal Desk project. Peter

Thanks Peter

Hi Gaetan, I have not used it for flooring but have seen the results of the two coat, no wiping method and it does come out quite well. Your best bet is to have a test piece. From my early experience you will have to leave a long time for the first coat to dry well - maybe 48 hours. Good luck. Peter

Hi Ray, I now prefer the Osmo 3011 Gloss. It does not give a high gloss finish but a subtle shine that is just a dash above satin. Cheers. Peter

Hi Zoltan, I replied earlier but it has disappeared ! Yes, Osmo 3011 will be great as would 3032. Good luck with the new bench. Peter

New Brit Workshop thank you Dear Peter, i was sure something goes wrong, because you always replay within few hours! Thank you again😍

Michael Tricker Hi Mike, I do not use varnishes very often these days but when I used clear satin polyurethane I used to 'kiss' sand with 320 grit between coats. That sanding technique requires a very gentle touch as though you were stroking a nervous cat and only do a handful of strokes with very little pressure. Then vacuum off and wipe with a lint free cloth before applying the next coat. When the final coat has had at least 3 times the recommended time to go off I used to use a green pad (but now I would definitely use a white pad) dipped into hard wax polish to get rid of the final blemishes in the surface and give the most beautiful lustre. When the wax has had a chance to harden buff off with a lint free cloth. Good luck. Peter

Thank you for your advise, I shall make up some test panels and give it a try.

Hi Natasha, Some stains can go quite deep and a simple sanding may not get it all out. However, it sounds like finger marks mainly so a light sand should do the trick. be very careful with those parts which are veneered as you do not want to go through the veneer when sanding. Try 120 grit to start with and then finish off with 180 grit. Good luck. Peter

Hi Mian, It is best to go no further than 150 grit although I use 180 grit as I have no 150 grit left. If you use too fine a grit then the oil will not bond to the surface. Good luck. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop thanks

+Wood Finishes Direct Hi Ben, I have not tried them or even seen them in the shops. Peter

Hi Rakjkd, Yes, you can use PolyX on interior pine doors. Before you start sand down to 150 or 180 grit making sure that you remove any previous finish. Vacuum off the dust and apply two coats of PolyX. I prefer to apply the oil by brush or with a white non abrasive pad and then rub off the excess with a lint free cloth. You do not need to sand between coats unless you see an imperfection. The first coat takes a lot longer to dry than the second. Peter

Thank you very much sir that is very informative advice.

v3ga5b4by Hi Vegas, I believe that Osmo have an oil with almost no pigment in it in their Top Oil range designed for kitchen work surfaces. Try a Google search and then seek absolute advice from your Osmo dealer. I think the range includes clear satin, clear matt and natural. Many thanks for the kind words. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop I have used the top oil and it does what it says on the tin. There's very little colour change and yet it does enhance the grain structures. I just completed an elm desktop and having watched Peter's video I used ordinary scotchbright because that''s all I had. turned out wonderfully well and far less effort than all that painting and wiping. Where does on purchase the non abrasive version?

Hi Don, Axminster. Peter

Hi Binks, Try Axminster - www.axminster.co.uk/hermes-webrax-hand-pad-ax23609 If the link does not work go to the Axminster web site and search for "Non abrasive" Peter

lukaselgrande Try www.ribright.co.uk/product/3m-scotch-brite-type-t-non-abrasive-cleaning-pad-white/Peter

Thanks!

+Chris Roach Hi Chris, It all hinges on what was actually applied in the first place. If a floor has had two coats of Osmo PolyX then it should not look flat as you put it. There is a chance that the company that did the job did not prepare everything well and maybe there were residues of some other (non Osmo) finish left behind. If the company that did the work are unable to offer the service that appears to be required (ie finish the job off to your satisfaction) then you need to chase them. If you are now on your own then the best thing to do is to try a test area somewhere out of the way and lightly sand with 120 or 150 grit to provide a key and then try a thin coat of Osmo PolyX. If that improves things then do the rest and be prepared to put a second coat on. There is a risk that whatever was put on before might need to be removed altogether - only you can make that judgement. Peter

Thanks peter They wont come back but will probably tell me what product they usef. Will the bona polish be a problem? Could I get back in touch with you when I find out what thay used please? Thanks again and best regards Chris

+Chris Roach Hi Chris, I do not know what bona polish is - it is not something that I have ever used. Please do not hesitate to come back to me when you have more information. Good luck. Peter

+New Brit Workshop (Peter) its a water borne floor cleaner and polish. available at homebase, b&q etc... lots of people recommend it. my concern is that i've put a water based product on an oil finished floor (which bona recommend) but now i may need to put oil back on to the bona polish. when i find out more i'll be in touch. and thanks again for your time. speak soon.

Hi Chris, Yes, they are really good. Peter

Brian Rayfield Many thanks Brian. Peter

Hi Linda, That sounds very odd. With me, the first coat takes longer than the stated 24 hours to dry and so I leave it for a couple of days. The subsequent coats dry very quickly. Perhaps you are applying it too generously? Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop I left the first coat dry for a week; second coat more than a week.

Hi Linda, It is difficult to judge what might have been going on....Did you stir it well? Could you have applied it a little too generously? Have fine did you sand the piece, what grit did you use? Peter

Hi Bo, No I have not tried that. I am quite happy with the method that I show in the video but then everything can be improved. The Surfix system is designed as a complete system in a box for busy contractors who want a quick and simple approach to finishing on site. For me Osmo ticks every box and is, for me, the best indoor oil around. Peter

I have the surfix myself. Its fine, but Im looking for a more MAT finish.I will try the two Osmo products mentionen very soon myself. Thank you for great great videos in general. Could you consider doing a video on how to produce your own (festool)dominos in custom woodtypes for exposed dominos in furniture (in a dovetail kind of way, make sense?)

I know what you mean and it is in the book of jobs to do. Peter

Hi Craig, I have never tried to remove the amount of Osmo that you describe and suggest that you seek advice from the Osmo dealer in your area. My first thoughts are to scrape or sand it off but there may be a better way if you check with the Osmo person. Peter

New Brit Workshop thank you peter

Hi Michael, There are loads of places but I am not sure which would suit you best. So, put "non abrasive pads" into Google and look for the white ones. Peter

Hi Chris, Yes, I have done this but do allow the stain to fully dry first. Peter

Hi Artur, I would not use any sanding sealer as the Osmo is far better when it is allowed to soak into the wood. You will get uneven results if you apply more in one area than another. Try applying a very even coat with a brush and then removing the excess with a lint free cloth. Alternatively apply the Osmo using a (white) non abrasive pad. Remember that any oil will bring out the natural colours of the wood and plywood can vary in colour particularly after the application of oil. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop Dear Peter, thank you for your reply. I agree it works ok without sanding sealer with osmo polyx oil but not with osmo polyx stain oil as you get bloches on the wood.

Hi Steve, I will remember this for when I do a solid wood floor. Many thanks. Peter

Both would be fine. The 3011 polyx will give a slightly more glossy finish. Peter

Thank you Peter. I would prefer as natural a finish as possible - matt finish. The osmo website suggests first using wood protector in clear then the top oil high solid clear. I only ever see people using the polyx on KZfaq - so confused! 😬

The top oil is great and will be perfect for you. I am not sure what the wood protector will do - I have never used it. Good luck. Peter

New Brit Workshop thank you 👍

Paulo Brigida Hi Paulo, No, I have not tried the Wood Wax. I did test Osmo Door Oil and that looks like an excellent product for internal doors. Peter

There is a risk if you sand below 150 grit and I have now stopped going down to 220. Peter

Hi Shin Rah, Many thanks. I used to use green Scotchbrite pads but they sometimes left bits of green on the work. These new pads, both 3M and Norton, work brilliantly and you will see a lot more of them. Peter

pcb1962 Surfix is designed for the busy professional who needs to create a good finish, quickly and with little fuss. In its systainer it is a great all in one system. My woodworking habits give me more time and Osmo provides what I need. Now that PolyX Gloss has arrived I see no reason to use anything else for cabinet work. Peter

Peter Parfitt Thanks Peter, I was going to buy Surfix for an upcoming furniture project but I think I'll go with PolyX instead.

It is a matter of taste. For pine I would use ordinary PolyX. Peter

Hi Dave, I find that the first coat needs a little over 24 hours but if it is put on and then wiped off with a lint free cloth then it will easily be dry in 24 hours. Peter

Just put "white non abrasive pads" into Google and you will see loads of options. Peter

Hi Garviel, Difficult to say but speed may be the dominating factor which makes thin coats with a rag better than a brush. Peter

I do not think that is the case - it is not as bad as you describe. It is far better than any form of linseed oil, french polish or alternatives with high VOC. Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop doubt me if you like, it is the internet. But I assure you it was bad. Much worse than linseed or tung oil. It was more like an alkyd paint. Not pleasant at all. I wonder if the Canadian formula differs from Europe?

Hi Kermitt, That really is very odd as I have used it indoors on many occasions. Please contact your supplier or Osmo CA as it should not be such a horrid smell. Many thanks for the clarification and do contact your dealer. Cheers. Peter

Just had a thought - which Osmo product was it and what is the product number? Peter

@@NewBritWorkshop it is a 2.5l can of Polyx-Oil 3031 clear matte. For wooden floors and furniture. I bought it from a Lumber chain called Windsor Plywood. I'll be calling them.