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How To Wax Polish Teak G-Plan Furniture (Table)

  Рет қаралды 15,527

Gilboys

Gilboys

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 15
@johnwilby9153
@johnwilby9153 3 жыл бұрын
It's a joy to have recently found your channel. Great pace and delivery from somebody who clearly knows what they're talking about!
@GilboysRestoration
@GilboysRestoration 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks John. That's very kind of you, I do enjoy doing them. We hope to produce a lot more in 2021. Best wishes Simon
@mrstandfast2212
@mrstandfast2212 3 жыл бұрын
I recently finished a late 16th century oak coffer with your Rose Gold polish, and not only was it a breeze to use, the finish was excellent. The coffer had some lovely original naive carving, and I found that a little of the wax mixed with a small amount of pure turpentine and applied with a small brush enabled me to get into the nooks and crannies to get a proper coverage. The turpentine evaporated and a medium stiff brush finished the job. Enjoying you videos, keep 'em coming.
@GilboysRestoration
@GilboysRestoration 3 жыл бұрын
Hi Stephen. Thank you. Yes you have done it exactly the way we have in the workshop. We hope to film many more videos over the coming months. With very best wishes. Simon.
@Steven-gl4cw
@Steven-gl4cw 7 ай бұрын
Nicely done glad your not Buffit the table slayer. The first wax is the correct colour for Gplan. I have used this wax many times on gplan fresco with the mix of teak and afromosia it's a lovely wax. I use a polish person to refinish my tables. A polish polisher. 😂
@alexmacdonald2644
@alexmacdonald2644 Жыл бұрын
Just what I was looking for- thanks, it’s going to make £30 Marketplace table look great
@mikepetersen8585
@mikepetersen8585 3 жыл бұрын
Great demonstration. Looking forward to waxing my new (very old) dining table with pure gold and antique gold this weekend. Hoping it turns out as well as I envisage.
@GilboysRestoration
@GilboysRestoration 3 жыл бұрын
Hi Mike How did you get on? Dining tables can be quite tricky to polish. I always advise dividing the table into sections and only applying and buffing one leaf at a time. It makes the job a lot easier and more enjoyable. 😁 Kind regards Simon
@GilboysRestoration
@GilboysRestoration 3 жыл бұрын
Good luck!
@NicoleChampagne-wg1iu
@NicoleChampagne-wg1iu Ай бұрын
Hello, I am seeing the zig zag of the veneer threading on older teak table after I have used paint stripper. Not the actual threads. Can it be saved? Wanted to refinish with tung oil.
@KuhRistalH
@KuhRistalH 10 ай бұрын
I was gifted an antique teak Nils Jonsson Secratary recently. Would you be willing to look at it and advise me on what wax to use?
@swannonline
@swannonline 3 жыл бұрын
Great stuff Simon. I've asked for some more of your wax for Christmas as I'm running low - I think I may be dissapointed so I'll be getting some more in the new year. I've been using your wax and liberon black bison for my cheaper peices for some time now. The difference between the two is miles apart! I find your buffs to a sheen with much less work, even if I over apply - although I tend to be quite tight with it... Don't want to waste the good stuff! And the smell 😍👌... I'm tempted to put some in a scentsy wax melter 🤣😂 Quick question, in this video you say leave the wax for 20-30 minutes. I sometimes leave over night... There is no issue with that... Is there?
@GilboysRestoration
@GilboysRestoration 3 жыл бұрын
Thank you fro your kind comments. I think we are all addicted to it here in the workshop. 🤪. You can leave it overnight but I would do so with caution: If you have applied it to a small area then you will be fine but, if it is applied to a number of pieces and left, you will be in for a tough time. The wax will dry hard to the surface and give your arms a real workout. I know there may be one of our videos that says leave it overnight but we found because our polish is so rich in its content leaving it too long allows it to go very hard. Having said this if you have experience with using our polish and understand how it works differently from the others then carry on. 🙂👏 Merry Christmas to you. 🎅
@susanrichman3811
@susanrichman3811 3 жыл бұрын
I just found your videos tonight and they are awesome, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge! I hope you don't mind that I have a couple of questions. I have bought (in Australia!) a Fresco G Plan dining table that although it is in good condition, the top does need re-finishing due to some of the old polyurethane coming of and showing bare wood. The current colouring of my table (veneer) is quite a bit darker colour than your examples, although the legs and solid wood band are similar to the coffee tables you have restored. I assume once I strip the top the colour will lighten considerably, so I was wondering if you have a suggestion for a stain to try to match the veneer to the solid wood a little more? Also, given it's going to need to be a hard wearing dining table, is the hard wax, followed by the wax polish still the best form of protection? ...and one final question - I was wondering why there is such a difference in colour between the solid wood and the veneer. There seems to be a bit of web info that indicates that the wood is afromosia rather than solid teak. Would that explain the difference? Once again, many thank yous and wishing you all the best of health all the way from Australia.
@GilboysRestoration
@GilboysRestoration 3 жыл бұрын
Hi Susan (g'day 😀) You are right, that often there are obvious colour differences when solid wood and veneers are used. I'm not aware of G-Plan using anything other than teak and teak veneer. Solid wood will mellow and age differently to veneer as it has a greater mass of wood in it. Thin veneers will often bleach out to a lighter even colour whereas finished solid wood will mellow and age with a much greater depth and variation in colour. I would recommend stripping and sanding your table top as I demonstrate in the video and then assess the colour. If you feel you still would like to make it darker then this is the point to do it. Hardwax Oils are very durable and provide good protection. You can use a polyurethane varnish or lacquer but with that you may compromise the look and feel of the table. The reason I like using hardwax oils is because they are made from non toxic, natural ingredients very easy to apply (unlike the traditional lacquers and varnishes). They are also hard wearing and look very similar to the original finish applied by G-plan / mid century teak furniture. (which would have been spray gun applied) Another benefit of using a hardwax oil is that you can easily re-apply it later on and it will refresh the finish without it looking over polished. You can also re-apply it over our wax polish. It's a win win win scenario as far as I can see. A durable, natural finish that looks good and is easy to apply by anyone. You don't have to just apply it the once. You can gently sand it with 320 grit sandpaper and give it a second or third coat if you so wish, then wax it. I hope this helps Best wishes Simon
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