Just a thought from a 41 year certified welder (career, not age), a much more indicative test would be to run fillet welds instead of stringers on the face of a plate! 7014’s have iron powder in the coating to speed up the “fill” process, and they like filling up fillets! The 7024’s you showed in the first episode were fatter than their 7014 cousin, and that’s because they have an even higher concentration of iron powder in their flux than the 7014! I’m pretty sure that if your baseline test procedure had been a T fillet, you’d have had a much more satisfactory end product from either brand of electrode! If the viewer is strictly a hobbyist , and just running stringer beads on small plates for fun, then this test is fine, but if he’s actually going to build or repair something, he needs to know about performance in a T joint situation! I’ve enjoyed the tests, and appreciate the time you put into this! One question. What were you burning these on, AC or DC+-? You may have said and I just missed it!

Hi Greg, you learn so much by going out of the boundaries to interpret what happens. Eventually we will send some pictures. Cheers.

I didn’t show it in the video but I ran some rods that were heated up in a rod oven, and they ran fine as well. Not sure what the deal was, they ran much better today 😀

Interesting tests. Whether it was your arc force setting, or the amperage; the welds did appear to improve when you turned it down. Thanks for sharing your tests/information-

Good morning, Greg. I really do appreciate you doing this series on the 7014 rods. I feel bad that you spent the money on rods that you aren't going to use up. I probably have more 7014 rods than I'll ever use in my lifetime so I won't ask for any. However, I do have an AC Lincoln Buzz Box so I will burn a few of them just to see how it turns out. But as good a welder as you are I don't have any high expectations of how mine will turn out. I have been saving several of your videos including these two so I can go back and reference them. Again, I thank you very much. God bless. 👍👍👍

I believe in the previous video you commented that there was some rust on the uncoated ends of the hobart electrodes. If that's the case, then the flux would have also been exposed to similar ambient moisture, and that rust may also have begun at a microscopic level under the flux. If that's true, then whether you bake them or not, the defects in weld appearance will persist.....that is speaking from experience. (later, after seeing results)The appearance defects in the welds from Hobart electrodes seem to have persisted. For what it's worth, to some degree, your electrode angle can cause odd things to happen to appearance. You asked "how much moisture could they have absorbed". They were not hermetically sealed, so the answer is "as much as was contained in air they were exposed to". That tape on the hobart container is not a hermetic seal. I've run the very same Esab rods(and like them quite a bit for what it's worth) are also not hermetically sealed. I've run the Hobart as well, but the ESAB is better IMO. Some manufacturers, even though the container is similar to either the ESAB or the Hobart, will have the electrodes packaged in a mylar foil bag that has clearly had all air evacuated before it was sealed. That is a hermetic seal and prevents oxygen/moisture exposure or absorption. Other manufacturers, and/or other types of electrodes, will come packaged in a sealed metal can which is also a hermetic seal. It's hard to tell from the camera angle, but it appears that you used less electrode angle on the vertical welds in this video versus the previous video. I commented on the previous video that in my experience, keeping the angle close to perpendicular worked better for me. Also, as your test illustrates, not all electrodes of the same specification run the same. Sometimes one brand will work well on your machine and be terrible on a different machine.

The blue demon 7014 I’m using runs super clean. The slag is super thick but comes off easily and the bead underneath looks chrome plated its so shiny. No buckshot or BBs for me. 😊

Just received 10 Lbs of Hobart 3/32 7018 rod and this batch is the stickiest rod at start that I have ever used. Have used Forney and Lincoln Excalibur (my favorite) as well as Esab , also excellent. Checked all the usual connections and cleaned the ground surface and upped the power but no difference. I have used this brand before and don't recall this happening so maybe it's just a bad batch or wet from the get go. Don't have an official rod oven but I will try an old toaster oven that I saved from the scrapper just for this purpose.

nicest stick welds i ever ran were with a very old 1950ish miller AEA with a onan gas engine and 6013 rods.

ESAB data lists 7014 1/8 with an amp range of 100-150 with specific deposition rates given at 120 (2.4lb/hr, 63.9% deposit mass-efficiency) and 150 (3.1lb/hr 61.1%). Deposit mass-efficiency does not include stub loss. filler_metal_databook_us_2016 Funny their sureweld 6013 has higher strength than their sureweld 7014(yield and ultimate), but the 7014 has more area reduction (necking) and just a hair more elongation at break, so it is a bit more ductile and may be a tad tougher than the 6013. They omitted the charpy impact test from the 7014 though, so hard to say for sure.

I have 7014 rods and personally I don’t care for them. I do use them for tacks(easy to start) other than that I prefer 6013

Have you tried turning down the amperage to 80-90? Curious...

I try not to use hobart products its never been good for me

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