I am glad you found it useful as it makes it all worth while! 😊

Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment Lee, I am glad that others are benefiting which is the whole idea. Happy Christmas 🎄

@@Jstorfs19 and a happy Christmas to you too pal. Cheers

I’m so glad that you found it useful! Happy New Year to you 👍🏼

I am glad you found it useful as it makes it all worth while! 😊

Sherwin Hoss thank you, I am glad you found it useful. If just one person has benefitted from it then it was worth doing. Kind regards

Thankyou and I am glad it was beneficial to you 👍🏼

No problem at all I am just glad that someone appreciates it. Happy Christmas 🎄

Thankyou for taking the time out to comment it’s appreciated and I am glad you found it useful 👍🏼

You are more than welcome, thanks for taking the time to leave a comment it’s appreciated and makes it all worth while.

I am glad you found it useful as it makes it all worth while! 😊

Glad you found it useful. Happy Christmas

Hi Jason, It matters not really where you take the power from just so long as it has power! Personally mine goes back to a fused spur as in the video. Both the boiler and the hive are connected into the same fused spur but don’t get precious over it. The advantages of having to separate Spurs ie one for the boiler and one for the hive simply means you can turn the hive off without turning the boiler off and vice versa but it really doesn’t matter as the draw is small and both the boiler and the hive can run off the same spur 👍🏼👍🏼

@@Jstorfs19 brilliant thanks 👍

Dewi Jones I’m glad you found it useful and thank you for your comments 👍🏼

@@Jstorfs19 hi mate nice video! Just wonder if boiler plus option will work if you connect it like that. As it says you need vr33 module to work on vaillant?

Mike UK hi, It should do because the only thing doing the work here are those two command wires which are connected to the boiler, they effectively bridge the gap from the receiver to the boiler

Hi, if you look under the boiler in the back left hand corner you will see a Red Bung! If you put a small cut in it you can push your power cable through it ... that’s what it’s for 👍🏼

Norman Cooper hi, My boiler had No power going to it at all! So that is why I took a power supply from the hive to the boiler... effectively what I did was basically took another cable from the power going to the hive and sent it to the boiler that’s why I state in the video power is going to the boiler.... Don’t mistake the brown / blue wire which I have used as the command wire though. I just simply used that cable ie the blue and the brown as a way of sending the signal to the boiler from the hive...... so all those two cables do is send an on or off signal to the boiler. So in essence the room thermostat sends a wireless signal to the hive control wall mounted box....this then decides if the boiler should be on or off depending on the wireless signal revived. Then the wall mounted control box sends a signal via those two cables to the boiler which in turn then either turns the boiler on or off. I hope this makes sense to you.. Regards

Norman Cooper so in answer to your question if your boiler already has power then there is no need to take power to the boiler again ! The only reason I took power to the boiler is because my boiler had no power at all. Most people’s boiler already have power so in that case all you need to do is make sure that the hive control box has power then just connect the wires that i connect to the boiler as a command cable!

@@Jstorfs19 Thanks thst makes sense.

is this a separate timer? if so I would disconnect it just like I would do if it was a separate thermostat .... the timer will no doubt have 2 command wires that go to the boiler and all you need to do is disconnect those two wires and put the 2 command cables as described in the video into those two ports because in essence all that a timer does is once the timer gets to a point that it is to be on then it just competes the circuit and that is exactly the same as what the hive hub does.... unless it’s a timer which is built into the the device such as the PCB then I would not touch it !

Stephen Robbins yes leave the clock in place and set it to constant as the hive will do the rest or turn it on and off according to the app 👍🏼

Aamir Gondal hi there, N - neutral L- Live then connection 1 +3 simply are command wires ! So that wire connects to you boiler as they send a signal to the boiler to fire up or shut off according to the hive setting

If it’s mains powered then it will get its power from the mains, that could mean a fused spur or it could be on the same power 240v supply which supplies the boiler… I couldn’t possibly tell you… you could try turning the boiler off and then electrical testing the thermostat to see if the power has gone off which would then mean that the thermostat is taking its power from the boiler and you could then chase the wire back. There will be two wires that go back to the boiler though and these will be a low voltage COMMAND wire which literally sends a little signal back to the boiler to turn it off or on. Best advice really is to contact an electrician and get them to determine where the 240v mains thermostat power is connected too. 👍🏼

Aaron hall sure you can .... on the control panel you will see two silver buttons just simply push the button in and the boiler fires up in manual mode👍🏼👍🏼

Go Forit hi, I’m sure it can but that’s the way I have connected it and it’s absolutely fine with no issues ... sorry for delay in replying

Go Forit hi, did you manage to connect your hive receiver. Did you connect it via the 24V or 230v, I’d be extremely grateful if you could let me know ???

@@sajmohammed I’d like to know this too

I always go via the live and rt for my link with the Vailant.

Hi Jason, I am sorry but I can’t offer any advice regarding this a Tado smart thermostat it’s not something I am familiar with. But I wish you well with it. I’m sure someone on here will be able to help but sadly I can’t. Kind regards.

Yes that would be the way to do it

Legend mate cheers for that I’ll get it done tomorrow and let you know how it goes! Thanks for the video your a life saver

Yes the 240v power that I have used there I have used it as a sort of junction box to then send the power to the boiler however if your boiler already has power then there is no need to send a 240v supply from the hive. I have only done this so that the hive and the boiler are running from the Fused Spur that you can see. Please don’t confuse the blue and brown wires that are the COMMAND wires to the boiler…. The COMMAND wires simply send a signal from the Hive unit to the boiler to turn the boiler on or off as required.

@@Jstorfs19 am I right in thinking you don’t have to earth the receiver? But could I just double up the earth at the boiler end as well? My set up is the boiler has a plug running to the socket, so there’s the L N and E connected within the boiler, so my plan was to run a cable from the receiver and double up at the L N and then attach the 1 & 3 to the 24 & RT within the boiler. I wasn’t going to bother with the earth but am I as well doubling that up boiler end?

@@KeyserSoze5421 I would double up the earth but that’s up to you really 👍🏼

Muhammad Dilbar If your receiver has a red status light this means it has lost connection to your thermostat. This could be due to poor signal between your devices or flat batteries in your thermostat. You may also see your heating showing as 'offline' in the Hive app. When this happens, you can still turn your heating and hot water on and off by using the buttons on the receiver. When you press the central heating (or hot water) button, a green light will come on indicating that this function is on. However, as the receiver is unable to communicate with the thermostat, it won't know when it has reached a target temperature so the boiler will remain on until you switch it off. You will need to press the relevant button on the receiver again to switch your heating or hot water off manually. Hive Hint: Sometimes the Hive Thermostat will use any Hive Light bulbs you have to route temperature messages. This is normally fine but can cause the thermostat to drop offline . If this happens, just turn your lights off at the wall socket then take the batteries out of the thermostat and put them back in again. You should turn your lights back on once the thermostat has reconnected. If the status light on the receiver remains red, try the below steps: Step 1 If you have an older version of the Hive thermostat then please follow the steps for Thermostat - no rf - Hive 1. Step 2 If you have the newest version of the Hive thermostat then please follow the steps for Thermostat - no signal - Hive 2. Step 3 If the receiver status light remains on red after attempting this then switch the boiler off and then on again at the isolation switch/fuse spur (this should be located near your Hive Receiver next to your boiler). The receiver status light will then turn green. Wait 10 minutes and then go to 'manage devices' in the Hive app where the thermostat and receiver should now be showing as 'connected'. If the receiver status light remains on red you may need to purchase a signal booster.

The hive needs power and so does the boiler but they don’t have to come from the hive I just used the terminals as a sort of junction box effectively because I needed a power source to both the boiler and the hive so it was easier for me just to pull a spur from the hive power in! So long as you have a power source going to the hive it doest matter! The main thing is the signal wires, they have to go to the boiler as per the video as they are effectively a command signal cable sending an off / on signal to the boiler

@@Jstorfs19 ok thanks will prob have to do it the same way then as I cannot get the two cables into one terminal thanks for ur help

@@gd5129 if you already have power going to your boiler then you could run a separate power cable from the boiler to the hive but I just did it that way as it was easier for me.

@@Jstorfs19 that’s way I mean tho I cannot get the hive cable into the boiler terminal not enuff room I wud send a picture but carnt on here

@@gd5129 I see, in that case then do it just as I have done and use those terminals as a power to the hive and also a power to the boiler! 👍🏼

Email me a picture

If you are wiring in a hive thermostat like the one on the video and you already have power running to the boiler and also power running to hive then then all you need is 2 wires from the hive unit itself ! As per the video!

@@Jstorfs19 I see, the boilers black and yellow cable (see email) are for Hive terminal 1 and 3?

@@Jstorfs19 Thanks Jon for the explanation and help via email. Much appreciated.

Hi, you have to have a power cable going to the hive otherwise it will not work! The power obviously powers the hive and the signal wires that are described in the video send the on/off signal to the boiler once the hive tells it too and this is what makes the heating come on and go off as per the app / room thermostat etc .... hope that makes sense

@@Jstorfs19 so just need to connect the signal wires to 1 and 3 in the hub and wire a plug to live neutral and earth in the hub. Guessing I don't need to bother with the link in the boiler?

@@korgscrew2000 that’s correct.... there is no need at all to send a power wire from the hive to the boiler if the boiler already has power! Mine didn’t so it was easier to take a spur from the hive into the boiler if that makes sense

Thanks. I've installed but the heating is constantly on. Do I need to remove the jumper cable that you did?

@@korgscrew2000 definitely !! You have to contact it as I have done otherwise the heating will stay on!!! Simply connect those cables exactly as I have... and make sure you remove the red jumper it should look exactly the same as mine

It looks like the timer connects to the bus adapter next to where you connect the hive 23v.

I did think it was quite self explanatory and if people follow it exactly as I have done it then they will have success.

@@Jstorfs19 I followed exactly as you have done and blew the board right by the low voltage rt. I tool L and N from fused spur and run a signal into 1 and 2 low v RT and connected brown to 1 and blue to 3. Any idea why this could be?

@@boxingfreddy100 I’ve literally just done the same. Did you find out why this happened? Cheers.

You can use normal 240 cable which is what I have done in this case!

Thanks. I have now installed it but my heating is on constantly and I cant turn it off by the thermostat. I have the same boiler too.

@@kelartis hi, have you made sure that the command wires are exactly the same as the video? Because of those command wires ie the two that go to the boiler into the block are the wrong way round the boiler will stay off when it should be on and stay on when it should be off! It’s simply a command wire that takes the signal from the hive unit to the boiler so check to make sure the jumpers are also present where needed and removed where appropriate. You shouldn’t have an additional thermostat connected also. Regards.

If you have used the hive control and thermostat that came with it then it should be fine! But don’t plug in an additional thermostat or if you have one then disconnect it because this could be conflicting with the hive one if the wires are different. If you imagine here all the hive system does is connect upto the mains, then the only thing that happens is the two wires that come out to the boiler are the thermostat command wires which just sends a little signal to the boiler to say ‘turn on or turn off’ A normal thermostat does exactly the same thing…. When you turn the normal thermostat let’s say from 18 -20 as soon as the thermostat registers 20 degrees then it then sends a little message to the boiler through those two small wires that go back to the boiler to turn on it turn off

@@Jstorfs19 Hi. Do you mean the wires for the 1 & 3 terminal? I will check again today, as that does make sense, but I am 100% sure they are the correct way around. I used a .75mm cable for the connectors. Would that cause an issue? I am only using the Hive thermostat, hub and receiver that came with the kit and nothing else. Thanks for the reply.

I could of done and I did explain that I ran the 240v feed from the boiler and basically used the hive as a connector to wire both before sending it into a fuse spur. The 240v cable was already coming out the boiler into the fuse spur sp It was far easier to run both those 240 cables to the hive and connect them there. 👍🏼

Try putting the black in terminal 3 and the grey in terminal 1 Those wires if you have them the wrong way round then the boiler will be off when it should be on and on when it should be off. So just reverse those two cables! After all they are only a command cable sending a signal to the boiler!

@@Jstorfs19 exactly as you said. Resolved. Many thanks 🙏

2 wires that are connected to the boiler are only a command wire so if you are just connecting the control box to the boiler than you only need the two wires as illustrated in the video. Are you talking about the power to the Hive Unit? Or the boiler? Either way both should really have an earth….. for safety really. Hope this helps

@@Jstorfs19 i have connected everything as per video but when heating is on ,burner status si on low , it barely raises the heating to 45 degress

@@slvs91 have you tried adjusting the burner temperature on the boiler control display? The hive unit does nothing more than tell the boiler to turn on or off….it replaces the thermostat and that’s all it does. Do you still have a thermostat connected?

@@Jstorfs19 how do i adjust that? Its a vaillant ecotec plus 824

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bNpmhNGK0L7ZiHU.html Take a look at this and it shows you 👍🏼

The wires coming from the hive are COMMAND wires I have used blue and brown but they are not connected to 240v They are simply COMMAND wires. They send a signal to the boiler to turn off and turn on nothing more. If you follow this video EXACTLY how it is then you will have no problems at all.

@@Jstorfs19 thank you for your reply. Have followed it and it appears to be working. Your video was much easier and clearer to follow than most of the ones I found. Thanks

You also need to fill out a minor works certificate for the electrical installation but I bet the gas fitters don’t 😂