Thank you so much! :)

Sounds like a nicely planned project.

Just remember that by code if the subpanel is in a separate building you must install ground rods to protect that building in addition to the ground wire that runs from the main panel.

You are right, I shouldn't have used a knife. But I was too lazy to go get my stripper. Full disclosure. :)

@@Engineerboy100 I always like seeing old school guys doing this stuff...Father inlaw has been an electrician for 40 years and will strip wires with anything handy. He will use a pair of dykes to strip it....I tried it once but I always cut the wire by mistake lol.

Bro! Isn’t that about a $180 knife?! Great video. Tx!

this depends on the distance from the main panel. larger wire may be required due to voltage drop. but if its close enough you are correct.

30 amps is the max this circuit can carry. The breaker from the main is 30 amp AND the wiring in the house is Aluminum, so 30 amps max.

I used 8 AWG.

When in doubt always go with the heavier gauge wire. Might be a little more expensive but it is safer.

Depending on how far away it is from your main panel, the 60amp panel may have required #4 awg wire to account for the voltage drop. For a 30amp panel, again if the distance is short (up to roughly 50-75 feet) use #10awg wire. If it is closer to 100ft or more, upsize to #8awg

ROFL lol you like that knife huh? Yes, she's a bute :) good eye mate!

Generally speaking, if you are upgrading your electrical, you must bring it up to code. If there is conduit, you need to add a neutral wire and a ground from the main panel to the subpanel. I am working on a 1950s home myself and I doubt you'll be able to do that. If the wire is run underground in conduit, it is probably long size rotted away. So, you will generally have two choices, one is to use direct burial cable, the other is to dig a trench and bury new conduit that you can use to pull in new wire. If you are not experienced with and comfortable with this project, you really should consider hiring an electrician to do it for you.

The grounding (green) and the grounded (white/neutral) should be bonded (connected) at the main main, but NOT as the sub panel. You should install a separate ground bar like the video shows to keep the green ground and the white neutral separate in the subpanel. Also, keep in mind that if the subpanel is in a separate building like a shed, or detached garage, you also have to add ground rods to protect that building. Properly size the grounding conductor from the rods to the subpanel per the code based on the size (amps) of the subpanel and connect the wire to the ground bar so that it is bonded to the green ground wire you brought in from the main panel.

The connection would be the same, I split mine to two breakers as well.

I don't recall the exact model but I got it from Home Depot.

@@Engineerboy100 I will there digging through their boxes! Thanks again!

It is a Square D QO 70-Amp 2-Space 4 Circuit Outdoor Main Lug Load Center, model # QO24L70RBCP available from most home improvement centers

There are a few factors that must be considered to choose the correct size wire for your application. I don't know the conditions, temperature, run distance etc so I don't want to give you a specific gauge size that said it is pretty standard to select a gauge size a little bigger than the amps required for your application to cover for resistance losses etc. check out a few charts like the one at this link and read a bit about the specifics or your situation and you should be able to choose a safe size. www.how-to-wire-it.com/romex-cable.html

If your subpanel is less than 100ft from the main panel, a 60amp feeder would generally use #4 awg wire. As you approach 100-150ft, you will need to upsize the wire to #3 to compensate for voltage drop. In general, circuits use the following wire sizes: 15amp - 14awg 20amp - 12awg 30amp - 10awg 40amp - 8awg 50amp - 6awg 60amp - 4awg Of course those are just the baselines and the specifics of your project might dictate upsizing or allow downsizing. Generally speaking, if you do not have access to and do not understand how to use an NEC codebook, you should hire a professional to do your electrical work. Of all the things in your house, electrical is perhaps the most dangerous. Don't risk you life or that of your family by assuming you know what you are doing.

Yes. The ground that I used was installed when the house was built new. I just repurposed the line which was originally for a spa.

@@Engineerboy100 Thanks.

Yes. Mine ground was installed when the house was built, so yes, if there is not an existing ground installed by a licensed electrician, then one should be installed.

A ground rod should usually be added, I added one when we install our back-up generator. On this small panel I did not add another rod because the original wiring when the house was built was already grounded for a spa so I just removed the spa and installed this panel. The contractors that build the house grounded these wires from when the house was new.

I did not in this instance but you can also do a ground rod which will not hurt.

@@Engineerboy100 I see so when do you need to run a ground rod or is it just for preference

@@Djm9393 I believe you need to run to a ground rod when the sub panel is in a separate building from the main... I could be wrong and it may differ state to state

@@dylanherne6093 That is correct. Assuming your jurisdiction is using the NEC code (which they should), it requires ground rod/s be installed if the subpanel is in a separate building from the main panel

You generally don't remove it from a new panel, as they usually do not come installed. If it is a main panel, you add the bonding screw. Though your suggestion to be sure there is no bonding screw in a subpanel is a good practice.

Have your local electrician look at what you have.

It goes to the main panel on the house.

Grounding rod is in another video for my generator at 1:00 minutes in, I post a link here. I have two grounding rods, one for the main panel and one for another subpanel. There is no "ground over-load" there are plenty of rods 8 foot deep is the shallow one. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hdh5rdOj28iXmKs.html

lol :) it's a sling-blade ;)

Yes. 110 volt.

That's not a pocket knife son, that's a $385.00 Zero tolerance carried by Navy seals and myself. ;) .... a very useful multi-application tool :)

@@Engineerboy100 you get an A+ for effort. I’m a tool guy. It’s just the wrong tool all day long. Get yourself a pair of these to start. Klein Tools - 11055KLE 11055 Wire Cutter and Wire Stripper, Stranded Wire Cutter, Solid Wire Cutter, Cuts Copper Wire Blue/Yellow www.amazon.com/dp/B00080DPNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CXHPCGG2WW1RZN30JFDN

By NEC code, you may only use the screw/s listed by the manufacturer for mounting a ground bar. The hole in the box is already drilled the correct size and the screw that comes with the ground bar is designed to tap as it is driven.

The screw provided has a machine thread so mor threads are in contact with the metal can. A self tapping screw only allows for 1 thread in contact with the metal.

Yes, that green wire runs back to the main panel and grounds everything in the box for safety. It could have been run to it's own dedicated 8' grounding rod as well.

Depending on the distance of the sub panel from the main panel you may not need a separate ground rod (in KY if its more than 12 ft from the main panel a separate earth ground is required.

@@noneya3504 is that true if in same building or if its in a separate building, like the NEC says.

All metal parts shall be grounded / bonded to the grounding system of the electrical supply

Every state requires that panels be grounded. We may not be talking about the same thing, but the ground bar installed in the subpanel is connected/bonded to the box by way of the mounting screw. The important thing is the the green ground is NOT connected to the white/neutral in the subpanel. If there is a green bonding screw running through the neutral bar into the panel, it must be removed. The neutral buss (grounded conductors) and the ground buss (grounding conductors) are ONLY bonded/connected at the first means of disconnect. For some that is the main service panel. For others it is a separate disconnect panel.

I don't want to say you are wrong because you may not be talking about the same thing, but there is nothing in the code requiring subpanels to have a minimun breaker size. Only that is there more than one circuit in the subpanel, it must include a single point of disconnect. So, technically yes, it looks like this panel will be in violation because it will contain two circuits without a single means of disconnect. Unless the breaker he installs has mechanical connection between the breakers. I am installing the exact same panel in my shed with a 30amp feeder (#10awg). It will pass through a separate disconnect (same kind I use for the A/C) and then to the subpanel. The subpanel will have two tandem breakers that could theoretically support four circuits. It will also integrate separate ground rods. This setup is completely legal. Also, your suggestion of using #6 for a 60amp feeder demonstrates a lack of NEC code understanding. The length of the wire run will also determine what size wire to use. If the distance is only say 50-75ft, then #6 is okay, but anything longer than that you have to account for voltage drop. A professional electrician will use #4awg for a 60amp feeder. This can also be affected by loads that are continuous like radiant coil heat or perhaps a air compressor.

ROFL lol Come on man :)

lol ok, I will :)