Thanks Fred for your comment. Yes, you’re absolutely right there, a flyback diode, as I believe they are known, would look like an excellent addition to the circuit, especially as the reverse signal output from the C2 unit is likely to be from a transistor and if that failed, I wouldn’t like to go looking for it to replace it! Thanks for your excellent comment. 👍

Many thanks for taking the time to stop by and say thanks, it means a lot. That video took several days of prep and 3 separate attempts at recording the voiceover, so getting positive comments makes it all feel worthwhile. I’m very pleased it was helpful to you. Good luck with your install! J.

Hi there and many thanks for your kind words. I’m very glad you enjoyed it and found it useful. Happy New Year! J.

I installed a few different combinations . Found better to if possible avoid using rear revers light for power . As often seem to cause interference on the camera then have to use smoother capacitor .

@@marksmith8663 Hi Mark, great advice, thanks for the comment. Nothing beats experience!

Thanks so much for taking the time to comment, and your kind words. Also for the subscription, which really helps. I’ll be doing more related videos soon. Thanks again. J.

Thank you for your kind comments, I'm very glad to hear it was helpful. 😊

Many thanks Paul, for your kind words. 👍

Thanks very much for your kind words, I’m glad you found it informative and helpful. 😃

Thanks very much for your kind words and I’m very pleased this helped. I’m hoping to make a follow up video soon, so keep an eye open! Thanks again. J.

I have a 2010 Fiesta and have a number plate light which incorpeates a cam I just couldnt fathom out what the red tails would go still a bit of a chalenge as the head unit only has the yellow Rc cable input so not sure yet how I will connect the red forward tail? anyway thanks you have been a great help

Hi John and thanks for your comments. To be honest, my knowledge of analogue electronics is not brilliant and I’m not sure whether that would work or not. I think the way I would tackle this one would be to fit a relay. Using the reversing light contact as a ‘signal’ to power the coil of the relay. The same one as I used in the video would do. The only thing is, you’d also need a positive feed that was unaffected by the LED. There may be one nearby. I guess the tail lights would always be on in this scenario, so that would be fine at night, but you’d have to turn them on to sidelights in the daytime to make the camera work when reverse was selected. My 2007 Peugeot has a 12v cigar socket in the boot, which is always on. Maybe that’s another option for the feed if you went down this relay route. Alternatively you could look further at your load resistor idea. I’m sure someone like Bigclive.com would be able to advise you in an instant as to whether this would work or not. I hope this helps and let me know how you get on! Happy New Year! J.

@@Jase777jase Hi Jase, Happy New Year to you too & thanks for such a prompt reply. It's an odd one as there's obviously enough power to run the reversing camera with both the filament bulb & the LED but I suppose the canbus could think that the LED is a blown bulb with the much lower wattage. Tomorrow I'll try the reversing camera with no bulb & see what happens but I will update you on the final outcome as it may help others.

Hi there and thanks for taking the time to stop by and comment. I hope it all works ok, let me know how you get on. ☺️

Thanks very much for your kind words and I’m glad you found it useful.

Many thanks... Glad it was helpful. 😊

Thanks for the feedback, I’m glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks for stopping by and I’m really glad you found the video useful. 😊

Excellent, glad it was helpful and thanks for the comment. 😊

Great! Glad it was helpful to you. 😊

Thanks Eduardo. 😊

Hi Maik, many thanks for your kind words! Yes, I’m seeing comments from more and more people who seem to have the reverse signal going straight into the head unit from the loom these days, and so no need for a “canbus detector” like my connects2 box. Yes, you can take power for the camera straight from the 12V ACC line. The two reasons I didn’t want to do it was (1) as you say it means the camera is on all the time so may be “burning it out” and (2) my camera has a set of very bright leds that would be off putting for drivers behind, if on all the time! If your camera does not have the LEDs then that’s not a problem. And as for the “burning it out” issue, at least by using the 12v ACC line, you’d only have it on when you were in the car driving and not 24 hours a day as would be the case if you were hooked up to the constant 12v. The relay in my circuit simply gives a stronger current supply than the canbus box can supply. It doesn’t clean anything up, it simply gives the camera the current it needs from the 12V ACC line. Hope that helps! Many thanks again and let me know how you get on. 😀

@@Maik_Hawk Hi again… I think it might be wise to check with the seller of the relay if they have any stipulation as to where the grounds should be taken from. If it were me, I would probably take the ground(s) from the loom at the back of the head unit. If you are wiring stuff in there anyway, it’s an easy place to get a ground. But if you are going to have the camera on all the time, and not just when reverse is selected, I personally would not bother with the relay. My reason for the relay is that the connects2 box does not output enough current to feed the camera. Actually the idea of this relay being sold, is to get around the fact that the canbus voltage drops at startup, (something I didn’t know, but strongly suspected by the way!). But either way, it’s a relay that helps in a situation where you are taking your feed from canbus. I think you said you will just connect your power lead if the camera straight to 12V ACC, and as such it will be on all the time the ignition is on. In this case, I don’t think you need this relay. It might be worth a quick email to the company anyway, to clarify this and also about the ground question. Hope that helps! J.

Sorry about that! 😂😂😂

Thanks James for your comment. You’re the second person to raise this issue. I have pinned the previous comment, so you should see it at the top of the comments now. A flyback diode could be used, although all I can say is I have not had any problems in several years of having this set-up. Thanks again. J.

Hi there and thanks for your comments. I’m not sure which blue wires you mean. Are they on the harness coming out of the back of the android unit or on the actual camera wire? If there’s any picture you can send me, or a picture online that you can point me towards, let me know and I’ll take a look! Happy New Year to you too!

@@Jase777jase Hi, Jase, the two blue wires are in the 10 pin RCA camera wiring connector in the harness coming out of the back of the android unit. I don't know how to send a picture to you 😂. But going back to Manuel, they are labeled WiFi antenna 1 and 2. Not sure what the uses for them are? I had not used them in the wired backup camera installation.Another problem happened yesterday. The backup camera was working fine when I installed it on the new year day. It is connected with both positive and negative wires to the reverse light. The other end was connected to the yellow video signal input and a red wire to the pink camera trigger for reverse. Yesterday when I was trying to reset the android unit, the backup camera screen went black. The android unit worked fine in park position. But the screen went black once it was in reverse gear. I searched online all day, I could not figure out why. One KZfaqr said connect the camera ground to the reverse light, the other one said connect it to the bare metal part of the car body. Maybe I should connect to the car body for the ground instead? I am not tech savvy, but I would like to DIY the project anyway.🤣 Sorry I have so many questions. Sincerely thank you for your advice. Thank you for your kindness.

@@rueqi3335 OK yes, I understand completely what you are saying... I will give this a little thought and reply in more detail later this evening. 😊

@@rueqi3335 Ok, so first thing to say is that if you reset the android unit, something might have happened at that point, if the camera failed to work afterwards, especially as the camera was working fine before, and you have changed nothing, and now it’s not working. But assuming the head unit is ok… as regards the negative or ground wire at the reverse lamp, it doesn’t really matter whether you attach it to the black lead of the lamp, or bare metal nearby. They will both be effectively the same. If the android unit is going to the reverse screen when you change to reverse, then that bit is working, but it sounds like either the camera signal is not getting through, OR the camera has stopped working. You can easily test if the camera is ok, by unplugging it from its current position and plugging it straight into the input of the head unit. You’ll need to provide power from a positive feed, like the battery (just like I did at the start of the video). It sounds like a loose connection somewhere to me. Maybe a loose yellow rca plug somewhere along the line. Good luck with troubleshooting further! With regards to the blue leads, they sound like the WiFi antenna that allows the unit to pick up a WiFi connection (either from your router if you are parked close enough to your house, or from you phone’s WiFi hotspot if you connect using that.) You don’t need to do anything with them, WiFi will work fine without extending them. I hope some of this helps, and good luck 😊

@@Jase777jase Ok, now I have a direction. I will check all the connections again. Thanks for your kindness! Rue

Hi there and thanks for your comments. Do you have a steering wheel interface? If so, does it provide the signal for reverse? If not, and that’s not an option, I don’t think there should be a problem taking a feed off the reversing light. I’m not a Bima expert but is an E90 around 2006 ish? If so it’s probably just got a filament bulb and should not be sensitive to an extra feed being drawn off. If in doubt, you might want to put a relay in there. I seem to remember my dads BMW of that era having it’s battery in the boot(?) so you could take a positive feed for the relay from that and switch the relay from the reversing lamp, which would be micro amps and not a problem. One other thing to bear in mind is usually the cables that come with the cameras are complete crap, and very thin, so you may wish to lay an extra cable for power. That stereo looks nice. Android 10 and made specifically for the E90 it seems to me? Let me know how you get on. 😊

@@Jase777jase Thank you for the great info. Yes it’s a 2006 pre LCI model..

Hi there, and thanks for your comments. Yes, you’re right of course, really that final picture was intended more for a general summing up, and does not show the full wiring of the relay, but that is covered between 26:16 and 28:16. Also please see other comment (Fred Flintstone) regarding using a flyback diode. This is sound advice, however, I have not bothered with my implementation, and it’s been working fine for a couple of years now. What I did do though, it encase the wiring to the relay in an outer, stronger layer of heatshrink, as I found the soldered joints were breaking off, after being pushed in with all the rest of the gubbins behind the stereo. Thanks again for your comment. 😊

Hi Adrian, and thanks for your comment. That’s an interesting one. Just so I can understand a bit more, you say that the HU does not have a back wire, but does it have something else? Are there any other wires that are not labelled or you have not tested yet? Or does it literally just have the RCA socket for video input from the camera? If that’s the case, then we have to assume it should automatically change to the reverse screen when you go into reverse, by interpreting canbus itself? I guess the first thing then to check would be if there are any settings in the HU for detecting Canbus inputs. Is it advertised as being capable of reading canbus without a separate interface? Is there a manual way of bringing up the reversing screen? Lots of question, sorry, just trying to get the basics right in my mind so I might be able to help! Let me know, all the best, Jason.

Thanks Frank, took a bit of time this one!

Hi there and thanks for the excellent question. There are lots of things to look at here. Firstly, yes the trigger will work with any 12v input regardless of whether it’s from the reversing light or not. So yes applying 12v will change the display. You’d need to check the legality of doing this because it’s generally illegal to be watching a screen whilst driving. Also, be careful to make sure that if you have both leads going straight in to the trigger, that you have diodes to prevent the current going both ways! Otherwise, you could be potentially be driving along, click your switch for rear view, and it would send the signal back down the wire to the lamp and turn it on! Just some things to be thinking about! Hope that helps. J.

Hi there Phillip and thanks for your comment. That’s very interesting. I didn’t, off hand, know the energising current of that relay, and I don’t know the current draw of my camera, but the lights are pretty bright. They provide more light than the actual reversing light of the car, but that is pretty woeful, so that’s not saying much. So I would imagine the draw of my camera is a fair but higher. As you say, how much is too much. All I can say is that I believe anecdotal/real-world experience counts for a lot, and I’ve never had a problem since fitting the relay. Also, I believe there is a company selling this as a solution, ie. a relay with wiring loom etc, so others have thought of this way of doing it. That being said, I think their product is also there to stop interference. Yes, a transistor might be a better way to go. If you do decide to go down that route, I’d be interested to see a schematic. 😀 Many thanks for an interesting comment. J.

@@Jase777jase I decided to do what the manual for my head unit said to do which was to connect the power for the camera through the ACC line on the head unit itself. I presume this is because without this, that particular head unit wouldn't be able to show the camera unless the car was also in reverse.

Thanks for your comments Steve. Very interesting indeed. To be honest I have not looked into the whole towing situation. I will do some digging and try to come up with a solution! BTW, how do you get your video feed through? Is there a spare wire in the tow-hook-up plug/socket or do you have to wire a separate lead, or is it wireless?

Sorry for long delay in replying. Yes, it would seem as though the unit is already getting its signal through the loom. I believe this is becoming more common now. I expect you have already installed your camera by now, but if not, yes taking the power from the reversing light would make sense in this scenario. Many thanks for comment and kind words.

Great thinking! I like it. Thanks for your comments and interesting to know your findings on the wireless option. 👍

Thanks very much. 😊

Well spotted… actually, it’s just the way I drew it, I simply meant it goes in to the relay, but yes you’re right, the way I’ve drawn it looks like it aligns with the centre pin, whereas of course it should align with the left hand pin, as per the previous drawing. So for wiring of the relay only take note of the previous drawing. Thanks for spotting this and good luck! J.

Hi there and thanks for your comment. No, it’s not a dumb question at all. You’re quite right, it does work without one, but it probably would damage the Connects-2 box after a while. The reason is, is that the Connects-2 box signal line will only supply a small amount of current. It’s only intended as a signal, to inform something that reverse gear has been selected, it’s not intended to provide power for any device. I actually contacted the manufacturers of the box and specifically asked them the question and they said it would damage the box if you took camera power straight from it. So the simple answer is a relay, which is fed by a small amount of current from the box, and switches a bigger amount of current to the camera (as much as it wants). I notice now, that there are companies who make a ready made relay with wiring, exactly for this purpose, so if you’re not comfortable wiring in one yourself and soldering etc, you can get one that’s got all the leads on. I hope that helps! J.

@@Jase777jase wow thanks for the reply! okay that makes sense. so in that case where are you pulling the 12v from that feeds the relay to power the camera?

@@DeelitefulJestr Exactly right yes! You got it. I'd be interested to know how much truth there is in what the manufacturer says, but TBH I'm not going to take any chances on blowing up a £60 box! 😁 Actually I suspect what they say is true, and anyway, always better to be safe than sorry! J.

@@Jase777jase sorry im a little confused. You are pulling the switch power for the relay from the connect 2 but where would you pull the 12v from?

@@DeelitefulJestr I'm getting it from what most people call 12V ACC. Its the 12V feed to the stereo (and other in car devices that's on when the ignition is on). Its a good option because (a) its on when needed (you don't need it to work when the ignition is off) (b) its got plenty of power and (c) It goes straight into the back of the stereo, so its local too. In fact I took a spur off that lead in the loom to give me a central point for power for the a feed for my phone, a feed for my ipad and a feed for my dashcam, in addition to the feed for the camera via the relay.

I think you can add a switch to one of those additional accessory slots and then wire the reverse signal to that. You could use a relay for that and have an actual mechanical switch that you can engage anddisengage at will

Hi Chris. Does the head unit have multiple RCA video inputs? In other words, is there one for reverse and one for watching a video? Mine has this and when I started testing, I just powered up the camera and plugged it into the video input. You need to select it as an option on the menu. If so you will know straight away if the camera is bad. I don’t think the wiring gauge should be a problem, mine is very very light gauge indeed. Good luck!

@@Jase777jase thanks for replying. I've got many RCAs on the head unit. But I've got it plugged into R.C in. According to manual is rear camera input. I've gone into settings and turned camera on (this is where you can change polarity to battery or ground) and also turn guidelines off and on. The guodliness that display when I put into reverse must be coming from the head unit as if I switch off at unit end, they disappear and I just get a black screen with "this video may appear backwards". So it seems to have power, just no signal. Very strange.

I'm having the same issue. Please help me too.

@@joneslr25 turned out my wiring at the reverse light was not connected properly. The wire connector wasn't spliced in far enough on the thinner wire at one end. Missing by about 1/4 of a millimetre!🤣

Hi there and thanks for your comments. You can always take power from the fuse box, if you can get to it! That usually the problem, or at least, it’s a big problem for me... The two ways you could utilise power from the fuse box would be (1) to find the actual fuse for the reversing light and take it from that, or (2) use my relay option and just take a feed that’s always on (eg for the cigarette lighter) or at least, always on when ignition is on. I hope that helps and thanks again for taking time to comment. 😊

Many thanks, glad you enjoyed it.

Hi there and thanks for your comment. The beauty of that cable is that it has a ground at both ends, so as long as your RCA video cable is plugged in to the head unit, it’s already grounded, so there’s no need to ground at the other end where you connect to the reversing light. hope that helps. J.

@@Jase777jase thanks for the reponse. That makes sense. Much appreciated.

Hi Emre, and thanks for your comment and good wishes. That’s a good question… I actually took my feed from the head unit. On that adaptor cable that goes from ISO to quad lock (in my case) there are two power wires. One is a permanent 12v feed and one is a feed from the ignition. One is thicker than the other. I took my feed from one of these two, I don’t think it really matters which, as I think both have enough current available. Good luck! Jason.

Hi Scott. With most cameras, it’s grounded through the RCA lead. So, in other words, if the RCA video cable is plugged in at the camera end and the head unit end, the camera is grounded. Your camera may be different, but I think it’s unlikely. The ground is common for the power and the video and travels inside the black RCA to RCA wire shown in the video. I hope that helps. Thanks for your comment.

Hi Lucas. Yes, that’s right. As long as the video lead is plugged into the stereo / head unit, the camera is grounded. The ground connector is the large outer connection on the yellow RCA plug. If that’s plugged into the stereo, then there is no need to have any other ground. Many thanks for your comment. 👍

@@Jase777jase Thanks!

Hi Brian. That’s a very good question and one that several people have asked! I’m sure it’s possible, but Im also sure it would be very tricky to achieve. It’s very likely that control of your factory fitted camera involves Canbus, and therefore you’d need to decode that to get anywhere. It might not be the case, but I’d bet that it would be. Regardless, you’d need a very detailed wiring diagram for the whole vehicle in order to even make a start as to how to go about it. That’s assuming you are talking about a factory fitted camera and factory fitted head unit. If you have an android aftermarket head unit and you have already successfully connected your built-in camera to the new head unit, it would be possible, because you have access to all the right connections for the job. I hope that helps, and many thanks for the excellent question. J.

Thanks for your rerply. I was thinking of going the Andriod way . And it could the easist way to do want i want . Thanks @@Jase777jase

Hi there, it’s very difficult to say exactly what each wire does, because different cameras have different wiring. They might have the same colours, but the use of each can vary. My guess would be red for power, black for ground, and “possibly” green and yellow would be the video signal. But that then leaves white. So to be honest I’m not sure. Can you get in touch with the camera supplier?

Hi there and thanks for the comment. The really handy thing about these cameras is that the video lead has a ground, and it’s common to the power as well. So you don’t need to wire in a ground, as that travels back via the outer connection on the yellow video lead, and it’s grounded at both ends. One less thing to think about!

Hi there and thanks for your comment. It’s likely to be very difficult indeed. It all depends upon the vehicle in question and you’d need to do some digging on the forums for that car, but I’m pretty sure original cameras would have a proprietary wiring system that could be very difficult to decode and find the wires you need. So, in short, not impossible, but likely very tricky! Hope that’s helps!

Hi there and thanks for your comment. I would suggest you “divide and conquer” by splitting the problem in two. First, make sure that when the camera comes on, that the line to the reversing lead of the stereo goes high (12v). Use a multimeter to make sure. If this is ok, separately, take a 12v positive feed from somewhere, and connect it to the reverse lead of the stereo. This should make the screen change to reverse. EITHER: part 1 will fail, or part 2 will fail. If it’s part 1, trace the route from the source of 12v. If it’s part 2 then either you have a faulty head unit, or perhaps there’s an option for automatic switching to reverse screen, that’s turned off. I hope this helps, please let me know how you get on! J.

Hi there. You're right, they are not there. Soon after I posted them they were out of date and the links didn't work. When I get chance I will put some new ones on there. Thanks for the reminder. 😊

Hi there Michael and thanks for your comment. Yes it’s something that I have thought of doing as well. It really depends on how far you’ve got so far. If you already have it working automatically when reverse is selected, either from the reversing light or from a canbus system, then it’s just a case of wiring in a switch in parallel with the current set up with one pin of the switch going to a positive signal and the other going into the reversing signal bunch. You could then mount this switch somewhere sensible on the dash. I guess if you haven’t already got it working automatically, you could just do the above anyway, and flick the switch if it’s close to where the gearstick is, and forget about the automatic part of things. Another completely different way of attacking this, which occurred to me yesterday, would be to use one of the other video inputs on the head unit. There are usually a couple of RCA connectors in addition to the one for the reversing camera input, and you could theoretically create a double RCA plug from the camera lead and plug in to one of the other RCA sockets as well as the reversing RCA input. This would mean that when you want to view the reversing camera on demand you have to go through the menu system to find the video input button. Hope that gives you food for thought! All the best Jason.

@@Jase777jase Funny you said that. I just ended up using one of the other video inputs. LoL

@@Jase777jase By the way, I like the using a RCA splitter so I can get backup and full time backup camera. Thanks for the thought!

Hi there, and thanks for your comments. Yes these cameras will display on a normal TV as long as it has a yellow rca video input line. You will need a power supply of 12v to power the camera when you are doing your test on the TV. If you supply 12v power to the camera and plug your video rca cable into the yellow rca socket on the TV and select that input on the TV, you should see an image. If not, there is a good chance the camera has a problem. 🤞 good luck!

@@Jase777jase do I have to connect the red cable that comes out of the rca plugs to the power supply???

@@emmanouhldigkas1661 yes, that’s right. Red to the positive 12v supply.

@@Jase777jase I also have to connect the red wires that the 6 meter rca cable has, it comes out with 2 red wires, I also have to connect these to the positive pole to see the signal on the TV???

Hi there, well that would indicate that the head unit it sensing reverse, but not seeing any input from the camera. Do you know that the camera is getting power and coming on? Ie does it have anything to indicate that it’s on, like led lights like the one in my video? Is if definitely plugged into the correct RCA socket on the back of the head unit? There will probably be several. Make sure it’s in the reverse one. Going back to the camera, If you can, try the camera in another device. If you have oldish TV with RCA inputs on, try it in the yellow port and select the correct AV channel on the TV and see if the camera is working. That’s about all I can offer I’m afraid! I wish you luck!

@@Jase777jase, I have plugged it in the correct port into the deck as it is marked with "camera." The camera itself seems to be getting power, because the LEDs on it light up. My deck has a foldable screen, which used to open automatically when I switch into "reverse." That function seems to have been lost. I can see that the deck registers the camera coming on when I switch into "reverse," because the word "camera" comes on the small field that shows the status while the screen is closed. I can open the screen with a push of a button, but when it opens, it displays the message "No Video Signal." I connected the camera power wire directly to ACC, but I am still getting the same result. In the end, I reset the deck, but that didn't fix the issue either. I am starting to think that the problem is in the deck itself now. The screen works with all other devices though so that is strange...

@@Jase777jase, Wouldn't I still have to power the camera if I were to test it in the TV set? Or the yellow coaxial cable connection would be enough?

@@leasegrandcayman8747 yes, your absolutely right, you’d need a 12v supply to power the camera if you tested it on a TV set. You might find an old router power supply that’s no longer needed, that happens to be 12v, but make sure it’s polarity is correct AND make sure it’s DC!

Hi there and thanks for your comment… Well that’s very interesting… I’ve not come across that before. I’m going to have a think and come back to you, but in the meantime, have you seen this… www.vwvortex.com/threads/back-up-cam-reverse-lights-only-getting-9-volts.6026501/ Some interesting ideas there. Other things that spring to mind are a camera with greater tolerance of input voltage, or a step up chip. I’ll get back to you..l

Yes, absolutely. In fact I’d like to learn more about Canbus enabled units. I’ve actually just replaced my unit featured in the video with a new Xtrons unit which was much more expensive, but still does not have Canbus built in. So I’m still slightly in the dark as to how much of the work is done for you. Presumably the screen changes over automatically when you change to reverse, and a line coming out of the loom goes high (12v) to power the camera. If you have one, and confirm this, I’d be grateful. In addition, I’m guessing that steering wheel controls are just built in as well. Anyway, thanks for your comment. 👍

Hi there, yes, sounds like a blown fuse. I did exactly the same thing during one of the many times I had the stereo out and was working on the wiring. It did the same and prevented the car from starting. Thank you for your comment, it’s a cautionary tale for anyone working on this sort of thing. When you have any 12v wire exposed, keep it well away from the body of the stereo, which is typically metal and grounded. Therefore, if it touches, a fuse will almost certainly be blown. Thanks again for your comment and I hope you are back on the road now! Best wishes. J.

@@Jase777jase hi thanks for your response yes I found the blown fuse, now I'm waiting for them to arrive this evening 😂 I connected the black wire from the camera to the neutral of the reverse lights when I should have connected it to ground, lesson learned 🤷🏼‍♂️😂

Thats What I a.m wondering

Did you ever figure it out?

@@NashBrewer-fz4yz yes I needed an additional ignition wire I had everything ran except that got frustrated took it to a sound shop and that’s all I needed

Volkswagen Jetta 2011

Hi David, I removed them because they keep changing! I will endeavour to put some new ones up soon! Thanks. J.

@@Jase777jase Found it thanks....

Hi there John and thanks for your comment… Yes, at 27:55 the wire that comes off NO (normally open) on the relay, which I draw going to the camera, is connected to the red wire of the camera. It’s basically a way of getting more power to the camera. As I mentioned in reply to another comment, you can buy that relay solution in a box ready-made, but I chose to make it up myself. Hope that helps, and good luck! J.

@@Jase777jase HI THANKS FOR THE REPLY, CAN YOU GIVE ME A LINK TO BUY THE READY MADE ONE. Cheers John T

@@johnthorburn1659 Hi again John. I’m having real difficulty finding one now! I did a search when I was writing my reply to you, and couldn’t find a suitable one, but I’ll have another look and see what I can find, I know they exist because another commenter left a message regarding them.