look left at 12:11 is the missing component :)

You see the missing diode lying around all the time, on the left ... I was wondering whether he'll find it before soldering in the new one or not 😄

12:09 The Diode seen left side

missing component @ 9:33 to the left of the pcb

12:21 diode can be seen just to the left of the board on the white plastic

12:16 from the begining was there, next to the pcb, with the belly up

Good man Sorin! 👍

9:36 in left side upside down diode…

On 12:18 the diod is on left side over some yellow foam

Excellent video showing us how to fault find on a battery and why it was not charging or discharging. If you repair laptops a battery analyzer is a must addition to your test gear. Thanks Sorin, i am now a lot wiser.🙂👍

Sorin can you do a video how to use short killer around processor and ram sections I don't have a thermal camera

12:15 The diode was here in the first place, but you didn't see it. I wonder why it moved up when you found it

Another great (and interesting tutorial). Still learning loads from you 😎 I watch your videos whilst at work repairing laptops hoping some of your magic rubs off on me!!

What a Master!!! Tkx so much Sorin ,for sharing with us the the logic to approach any electronics device

good job, i wouldn't have guessed what component was there, i would have spend most time searching for it inside battery first

I was just about to say where is the missing diode, Nice work!

Great video. Thanks. Told you the component had to be in the battery somewhere. Like a soccer game haha.

You have to watchout when buying genuine new/old stock batteries, if they are old, ie, bought some genuine batteries for 2011 phone and they only lasted a few months before they were as bad as the old battery I took out - lol -. Batteries, genuine or aftermarket, are only manufactured around the time the device is popular, so if the device is old, probably no battery will be good.

LOOK.. THE COMPONENT ON THE GROUND NEXT TO YOUR FINGER 9:35

charge of battery is full but when unplug the charger switch off the laptop and when the charger is plug it give the sounds at the charger port what do you think the problem, by the way your are amazing man thank you for give us this helpful lecture

Perfect repair. Buying another one for cheap it's a waste of money. Original battery is worth repairing. Thank you Sorin!

Funny...i have i similar problem with a battery for a msi laptop. Can't see the problem, but now i will look for a missing component 👍

First time i see that genuine battery dont have thermal fuse🤔

Always amazing how Sorin is able to figure these things out! 👍

Îmi place cum zici ceck here😂😂😂❤ brava sir Sorin! Felicitări!

This was so satisfying!

Thank you :)

❤

Awesome video. One of your best yet. Thanks.

Good job mate 👏

Sorin The Battery Doctor...🔋

Hello🤝👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👋👋👋👋fricking diode✌

Humm, You left the other diode in the battery. see it at 14:38 just before you close it to test it.

Amazing! 💪💪💪

👍👍👌👌

I noticed that several fields in the battery information are 65535 including Run Time to empty Average to empty/full At Rate to Full etc. That number is the maximum value that can be stored in an 16 bit unsigned interger and any readings showing that number should be treated as erroneous.

nice nice repair ❤❤❤❤❤

Acum mi am dat seama ca ești roman

I love you

Nice tool 😮

Nice

Is it true that you cannot unlock batteries with this tool unless you pay a yearly subscrption? I was interested until i saw that....

Sorin is the best 💪

Who else shouted at the screen at 12:09 minutes lol

Faulty/bad soldering from factory, or overpower created in that component for some reason and then when dropped, weakened joints in that state cause it fell off, given how the soldering looks i think the latter is more likely and in this case there is a decent chance this diode is faulty past certain point current passes through it so this may happen again to it or next time it just goes bad. I'd test if i found it like Sorin did, just case it needed replacement. Find its spec, run max rated current at max rated voltage for 3 hours and monitor while you have it loaded like that, it will get hot pretty fast but if it's gonna be bad anyway it will probably fail within this time, that's how you learn.

What do we think about this? Sorin I think you are a Genius.

how to buy this battery analyzer?

Just when you were finding the other diode I was screaming where did the original went....,

Technicians should be able to spot missing component before applying all tests to check any board

I have had similar issues a couple of times but usually the battery was locked and the thermal fuse gone, never seen this on a healthy battery that was not locked, this is strange

the diode is fall under battery check video

First time I have heard about this kind of fault. Components falling off the board. Kind of strange.

That diode can't have been soldered very well at the factory.

Hate that the nlb is licensed for x amont of time. It.s like renting the software. I want to buy the thing once and be done with it

I get a kick out of this. Quality is so poor components just pop off the board. Loooooll😮

These original HT03XL from 2-3 years back are all BAD and go "puffy". I have replaced those in 3 devices in the past 2 months and I know from fellow techs that they had to solve the same problem. Be careful with them.

I am sorry to say, but that battery is not a genuine HP battery, but a third party OEM. Genuine HP battery has the HP logo, plus HP part number and replacement PN, and a label with a CT code and QR code.

Just wached it on facebook first

Definitely not original battery, no hp logo on, poor soldering. Chinese staff in factory didn't mange to solder diode properly so it fell off 😂.