Thank you for being such a great supporter of our channel :-)

Ah that's so great to hear! We really love that sighting system - it's so effective!

Great - thank you for letting us know!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Hey Dave - please let us know if we helped! Thanks a lot.

Thanks for that comment! We really do try to make sure that we give you as much as possible for the money! Glad to hear it's going well!

Awesome - thanks for the information Illia!

Hey Ivan - there is really no limitation to how much you can cover, but of course time becomes the limiting factor. With regard to how much of an area you should cover, generally speaking, if it's an area that you want to cover, I would encourage you to try to cover the full width of the area in one stroke, and change direction off the part to make your return pass. This way you don't have to risk double application when you try to join up your passes. I'm describing this as if you are covering, for example, a square of 10cm x 10cm. You could make your passes from right to left and left to right, change direction off the part. Perhaps your spray width will be 2cm. Then you could make your first pass left to right with the centre of the airbrush aimed at the top edge of the square. Change direction off the part, and move down a touch so that your next pass it aimed at the EDGE of the previous one (i.e. there is some overlap) and make the next pass from right to left. Following pass, again aim the airbrush at the lower edge of the previous pass, running from left to right again. This is the typical overlap method in spraying to achieve perfect even coverage, and you do it understanding that each pass you make will receive another partial application when you do the following pass due to the overlap, so you need to be careful that your initial pass does not over apply. It should look slightly under applied. Great topic. We will make a video about this.

Really interesting - this sounds very much like the posture that a sign-writer uses when using a dagger paintbrush to draw pin striping. Nothing is wrong! If you're comfortable, and it works for you, then great. If you experience cramps, then consider changing when not painting detail. If you don't experience any problems, then you don't have any :-)

@@harderairbrush It is similar to how they do detail work on car bodies with brushes :D I do not usually get cramps but now that I saw the more relaxed position, I gave it a go. It feels unnatural to me :D My regular pen holding is also horrid. My wife tried to teach me how to hold a pen - it did not work out. I believe they taught me poorly in preschool and I have a horrid handwriting as well. Interestingly enough, my brush holding is completely different. I am still thinking about starting a youtube channel. Maybe I should do a video about this :D

@@HuntersOA don't overthink buddy - I'd hate to cause you to do that! Be results oriented. Correct is whatever gets you the results you need. My suggestions are just to help people avoid cramping really, in the main. If you don't have it, then no worries!

Video coming soon on that!

Awesome cant wait !

Don't worry about it. if you applied the primer with the airbrush, the thickness will be negligible so you can just fill over the primer, and then reprime.

Hello there - glad to hear that the videos are useful! Generally, it's not possible. You may find some parts which interchange between Far Eastern manufacturers as sometimes common factories are used, and less frequently, copies are made, but this is always a risk, as you can never really be sure that the specifications on the shapes/ micro-measurements are the same, and therefore compatible. Definitely best to stick to the brand of the airbrush in terms of the spare parts that you put in it.

Hey Jim - that's a really difficult question to answer without understanding your cleaning process. You are right that the air caps are typically more robust than the needles or nozzles. Could you give us an insight to how you are cleaning your air caps?

@@harderairbrush when it comes to cleaning it after taking out the needle and nozzle I usually squirt some water or Vallejo cleaner fluid through the air cap hole from a swan neck bottle. Which is part of the reason I’m confused, I don’t stick anything in the air cap that shouldn’t be there or attempt to force anything in the air cap hole

@@harderairbrush a new air cap has fixed the issue again… I still have no idea how I’ve managed to do this twice

We like Iwata Superlube.

Hey Trebor! No you're right - not for glosses. They are tricky! Put the gloss down until it only just goes glossy and flows out flat. Regarding the missed a spot thing - it's difficult. You can put down something locally which is more highly thinned and hope that it will flow into the surrounding area - but this is very hit and miss. Most likely you need to go again. That's why, when you're putting down gloss, or clear, for example, you really want a systematic approach to the part so that you KNOW that you've hit everything sequentially, and don't need to go back to areas which may have already started to dry - then you'll get that overspray issue. Thanks for your comments, and questions!

@@harderairbrush Thanks for the reply and thanks for confirming what I've experienced. At least it's not just me doing something wrong then :)

Everything we talk about here is somewhat generalised. When it comes down to your grip, really, it doesn't matter, as long as you are getting the results that you want, AND you are not getting any fatigue. Can't argue with @AirbrushAsylum in terms of results, so it's clearly working great for him!

hey Dale - no problem. All parts which are designed to bear paint, are also solvent proof.

Hello Vlad - thanks for the question - generally, if you're talking about typical pearls and metallics, no problem. However, when you start to go into automotive where the chip sizes start to increase substantially for different effects, 0.15mm can start to be an issue. However, I could ask you to think about why you need a 0.15mm to run metallics - typically metallics are area effects - you don't need them in detail applications. Therefore, if you're using metallics in a typical way, I would encourage you to use our 0.4mm set-up. It is still capable of extremely fine atomisation and slow application, and will give you perfect deposition of even a coarse metallic. The 0.2mm will also work well. Hope that helps.

@@harderairbrush @harderairbrush when I bought my Infinity CR, it only comes with a 0.15 needle. I have some metallic paints from Turbo Dork, and some of their paints have bigger sized flakes than the others. And it scares me to use a $250 airbrush just for it to cause clogs. Thanks for the answer, I'm going to purchase a 0.4 needle for my airbrush.