Thank you for the suggestions. We will have to get some of the others recorded as well.

Sounds like a damaged pipe could be a possibility that feeds those zones thus the reason why low water pressure. Long the distance, less pressure. I would try capping the heads to add more pressure to where potential break might be. Look for a bubble in the grass or flooding if not in grass area. This should help you pinpoint the break if there is one.

As long as that new pump is putting out same amount and pressure of water that shouldn’t be the culprit.

(Without:)

Sorry to hear. Yes only 1/4 Turn. Thanks for the reminder to everyone.

I did the same thing and the metal piece is stuck to the valve

Make sure the rubber o-ring that goes on the tip of the solenoid is on before screwing into valve. Also that the valve port is completely cleaned of any debris or granulars of dirt

Thanks for the follow up. I used a flathead and gave it one more good turn. That seemed to do it for the leak. All is working but strangely the solenoid doesnt test manually with counter clockwise turn or bleed screw but it works with controller as i need it do.

Try this first SPRINKLERS WON'T TURN OFF! - How To Fix Easily! - Rain Bird, Hunter, and Other Sprinkler Valves kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mL6llpxklbWzZ30.html

I would check sprinkler head filters first! If that’s not the case, it could be just poor sprinkler design depending out the pipe and heads are laid out, especially if it has always been like that. Let us know what you find out!

Correct

If you have debris, you should check out our other video about flushing the valve by removing the top/bonnet.

Try turning the solenoid 1/4 turn. That should turn it on manually. If that works then check wiring (see our other videos). Then check operation of clock (other video on our channel).

If wired correctly the controller should do that for you once it is all set up / programmed for when to water etc.

Sounds like something with controller. Not familiar with that controller.

Correct. Should be a setting on clock that will do all of it.

Recommended pressure range: 20 to 150 PSI

@@thesprinklerchannel Sorry, does that particular valve lower the PSI? If so, to what? TY

@@FNMCaffeine no this valve does not change the pressure. In this video we talk about how to turn on the sprinkler valve manually versus at the clock. The solenoid on top of the valve is the part that controls whether the zone or station is on or off but not the pressure. They do make parts that can be added to valves to control pressure to a given valve. Hope this helps answer your questions.

Might want to open up the valve and check the diaphragm. Also there might be corrosion on wires not allowing clock to turn it on. This video helps with opening up valve: check it out. SPRINKLERS WON'T TURN OFF! - How To Fix Easily! - Rain Bird, Hunter, and Other Sprinkler Valves kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mL6llpxklbWzZ30.html

Everything You Need to Know About Your Sprinkler Wiring kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pNuah5tzq7rWpJ8.html

If it’s wired up correctly and the everything functioning properly then station 2 should come on when station 1 is done running.

@@thesprinklerchannel Thanks. I only have 2 stations and I checked the wiring. I can also operate Station 2 thru Manual Mode activation, so its not the solenoid. However Station 2 will NOT activate when programmed with the same Start Tiimes and Runtiime as Station 1. I think Im going to reset the timer and start again.

They should be left tightened snugly to the right. Then from there if wire correctly the clock controls when the solenoid is charged and opens and closes the valve. If that isn’t happening see our video about “sprinklers won’t turn off”

@@thesprinklerchannelI will try it out thank you for your help

After ensuring that indeed it is flowing, I would do what is called flushing the valve (no video yet on this but thanks to you there probably will be one coming up in the coming weeks). In short this is how you do it. With the main shut off turned off, you take off the top of the valve (this one has 4 screw) carefully remove the top (called the bonnet) and don't lose the spring underneath and make sure when you remove the rubber part (the diaphragm) that you notice the exact position (it has a little rubber node to it that has to go back into a specific hole when re-installing). With all of this removed you should be able to see right into the valve body. There may be little pebbles visible in the center chamber that you can grab with your finger and fish them out. Other times they are not visible but still present. Now you go back to the main shut-off ideally with a person watch the valve so they can tell you quickly when to shut it off. The goal now is to turn on the water just long enough to flush the valve or in practicality create a geyser of watch coming out of the valve body. As soon as that happens if you can see the valve from the shut off point you quickly turn it off before the area is flooded or if you can't see the valve box hopefully you have a person that can either be on a phone call and tell you immediately when it is flushed so you can quickly turn off the water. Then in reverse order put the valve back together not forgetting the correct orientation of the diaphragm and the spring and to not over-tighten the screws (hand tight should be sufficient). Then making sure the solenoid is screwed on properly (maybe check this first of all) aka seated properly with a o-ring present and ensuring the solenoid is turn all the way to the right as to be "off" then you can turn water back on slowly and see if that fixed your problem. In some cases one needs to replace the top end of the valve (all the parts you removed before flushing in order to solve the problem). Let us know if this helped / worked to solve you problem!

@@thesprinklerchannel I ended up replacing the top of the whole valve. I didn't see anything inside that kept it from shutting off. It's working good now. Thanks for the help.

@@mikehumphry258 Can you share the link of item which you bought to replace the top? I have the same exact problem.

​@@thesprinklerchannel If I replace the selonoid how do I know what wires to match up?? No video shows how to properly rewire. On my broken or bad selonoid there are just 2 red wires. How to I splice or connect the correct ones? does it matter which wire goes to which?? Thanks

Sometimes I have had to turn left more than a quarter turn. But the issues is if it comes completely off it’s is difficult if impossible to screw back on while the sprinkler water is on. Be ready to shut off sprinkler water supply and then try unscrewing a little more.

I also have this issue and I ended up turning so far the solenoid came off, but still no water flow. This is only for one of the zones too

The one could be for a specific zone or it could be a master valve. Does the other 3 work without the one turned on?

@@thesprinklerchannel yes the other 3 worked with it off. If that's the case, does it mean that it piggy backs onto another zone? Because I only have 3 zones. Again my main shutoff for the water is in the basement

Sometimes it does take more than a 1/4 turn. Also make sure the middle knob isn’t turned down which manually pushes down on the diaphragm.

SPRINKLERS WON'T TURN OFF! - How To Fix Easily! - Rain Bird, Hunter, and Other Sprinkler Valves kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mL6llpxklbWzZ30.html