Thanks for the comment & smart move on the preventative maintenance! Personally I’d keep a code scanner in your glovebox, then if it ever does happen you can clear the code and make it home. If I had not had a scanner I’d have been stuck needing a tow, or at the very least a ride to get a scanner. Although 230k is a lot more than 165k, I also know a ‘12 Prius in the family with 240k that has had 0 issues. It’s a random gamble like anything.

@@BrenoAutoGarage which scanner do you have

@@pavindersinghgrewal7414 BlueDriver. I keep one in every car. Expensive, but I trust them. I’ve also used a generic cheap “ELM327” bluetooth scanner and it’s ok, only as good as the app you use.

Thanks for the comment! I looked at your channel because the profile photo reminded me of my first bike, a two stroke Kawasaki KE100. You have some awesome looking videos.

It’s amazing sometimes the simplest tools make the most difference. Like a good hook & pick set, I use them all the time. But as you said, the right ratchet or wrench to fit that tight spot is a must. Thanks for your comment.

Thanks for the comment! If I had known the rotor was all that had failed I probably would have got just that too. Smart move to save money.

What is the part number for the rubber seal on the pump?

What about the Inverter pump?

​@Jatsotserah it is a separate pump behind the drivers side headlight. 2 separate cooling systems

Thanks for the sub, glad the video helped!

That would be easiest. Otherwise you need to measure out the concentrate and mix with distilled water at the right ratio (most run 50/50, but the bottle has a chart you can follow). Concentrate is cheaper once diluted (you get 2x as much), but less convenient.

Glad it helped, and thank you for the comments!

I did not know at the time, but that would have been much cheaper I agree!

There's a guy on YT who mentions this as a cheap fix rather than buying the whole pump. The plastic rotor is usually the culprit and is cheaper to replace .

The worst part is when you go to fix one thing, and break another in the process! Or you find out you need another special tool just for one job. The old can of worms saying can be true for cars lol.

If the normal Prius/CT200h is a tighter fit than on my Prius V then that might be easier way to go. I had plenty of room with just the air intake removed. Let me know what worked for you.

It's true....but maybe not necessary. There's an access door down there too

I want to say they're 12mm.....you're probably done with this by now

@@Thathustlebus Sadly not yet. Still waiting on parts. Can post here with the size when I do it. Much obliged for the response

That is nuts, more than a used engine… Did you find a way to get it out? I’ve been lucky to never break a bolt in a tight spot I couldn’t get to it easily.

@BrenoAutoGarage I couldnt get the bolt out, so I jammed a post into the hole on top of the bolt, caked it with jb weld, put the pump on, put more jb weld into the space in the hole for the water pump bolt, then fastened a nut to it. It had help so far, maybe 5k miles later

Madman enters the chat! Would not be fun to take apart again, but I bet it will hold up. I would probably have slathered the pump/gasket with RTV in that area and left the bolt missing myself. Either way, glad to hear you got it done & back on the road.

PITTSBURGH PRO 1/4 in, 3/8 in. Drive Long-Reach Dual Flex Head Ratchet - Item 67994 It is very nice to have, I use it all the time. For the little bolts in this video this is all you need. I use a breaker bar on larger stuck bolts.

Why 1/4 and 3/8 when those bolts are metric

Possibly radiator or head gasket? Can get head gasket test kit with blue fluid, good thing for any car. Radiator blockage would be hard to tell from the outside.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i75ima6ZyqjbnWQ.htmlsi=CtObOl0wUOveSZ8K I hope you find this link helpful. It helped me after a coolant drain/refill and my issue with overheating. God Bless You! Merry Christmas!🎄🌲

Did you get the issue resolved? If we know the head gasket is ok, then no extra heat is being added, there must be an issue with heat being removed. Possibly a blocked radiator, not dissipating the heat. I’m not sure how the ECU controls the water pump, but if the coolant temp sensor was off it might not be requesting enough flow? That is what comes to my mind.

@@BrenoAutoGarage i believe that i solved the problem, but i do not know what exactly was the problem. my radiator is ok, because my liquid is crystal clear transparent, no precipitates, and because i was able to drive 3 h in the hotest part of the day tlh-jax. then, after i changed the temperature sensor, seems like no more overheating. how and why the temp sensor causes overheating have no idea. Because the theromstate was also changed. unless, malfunctioning temp sensor tells computer the water is cold, and computer reduces the pump rpm. but then comes the funniest part. temp sensor is a platinum wire. because platinum resistivity vs temperature diagram is very well known. please find it on the internet. i checked my temp sensor, it reads 1500-2000 ohms, which is right for ambient temperature. Well, I went tlh- jax and back, no more overheating. (Do you know the song Ohm, Sweet Ohm by Kraftwerk?)

​@@west_park7993the temp sensor is what the ecu uses to set command speed for the water pump and radiator fans.

@@cyclonicblade yes. thanks

You could remove the front right wheel and plastic liner to get more room if it is a tighter fit for you than on my Prius V. Let me know what you did to get it out. I had plenty of room with just the air intake removed.

I have a 2011 and was able to do it myself easily. Not sure if it’s different in other generations. Once you remove the air intake cover it opens up a lot of room. I also took my right front tire off after jacking the car up and it gave so much more room from the bottom. It’s very easy. Do the thermostat at the same time while you’re down there.

Check RockAuto.com, they have many options listed under Cooling System -> Water Pump Gasket

Here you go! Water Pump - AISIN WPT190 Thermostat - AISIN THT017

My son's mechanic pointed out that there's no drive belt on the pully.