We worked at a fab shop. We made ends from pipe.. thick rubber.. installed a shader valve on one end. Took little time but … wow it worked good. We ran gncc in the 90s so pipes got beat. Little air … little heat … barely and hammer work

The 2020+ TPI stock ribbed pipe shape will distort if HydraForce is used to blow them out. For a ribbed pipe you’ll need to use the compressed air and heat blow out method.

Pressure washers are rated in GPM and PSI, many will flow more fluid in 1/2 sec then the entire stroke of that hand pump, but as long as appropriate safety measures are employed, have at it.

Just ride.

I've seen that some people use pressure washers. The advantage of using the hand pump (which has a pressure gauge) is that it's very controllable.

Your comment inspired me to make a video which shows how I adjust the header section of the pipe if fit in the exhaust manifold is not good. Yes, I sometimes do need to adjust the header. As mentioned in the video, if you're using a pipe guard you're much more likely to experience header bending: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jZ-Xls6Dq7m-iI0.html

@@TokyoOffroad So awesome, thank you!!

I agree that you can achieve a more perfect blow out with compressed air and a torch. But for my use (offroad mountain riding) I usually get a new dent/s every ride and because HydraForce is quick, easy and takes that majority of the damage out, it's what I like to use most often.

I find the HydraForce method quicker and easier. It removes all dents in one go and also tends to return the overall pipe shape to original. However, to fully remove dents you do need to do some hammering as shown in the video. The advantage of using compressed air and heat is that you can achieve near perfect dent removal, although I find it quite time consuming. Without doubt the HydraForce method is a lot safer, so long as you're careful to bleed all air out of the pipe before applying pressure.

@@TokyoOffroad Could you please list some dangers to watch out for with each method?

@@tonn333 imagine exploding the pipe while filled with compresed air. The hot air would expand many times the volume of the pipe. At least it would rupture your eardrums.

@@tonn333 With compressed air and heat method, the biggest danger is if a bung fails it can shoot off with a lot of force. With HydraForce, so long as you bleed out all of the air, the water compresses very little, meaning that even if a bung fails it won't act like a projectile, they'll just be a short spurt of water and it's over.

Heating the pipe with a torch and blowing out with compressed air is a different technique which works well, but for me is more time consuming and higher risk. But if you're suggesting heating the pipe while full of water it'll be very difficult to get the steel hot enough to soften and even if you could apply enough heat the water inside would be boiling (superheated) and be very dangerous if a bung came off, or the pipe burst. I previously made this video which shows the heat and compressed air method. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i8V8ds-Fvs-Vl40.htmlsi=7c_hUp76DRfEDK74

I was just thinking that. A little heat would help.

@@tomcampbell6384 The pipe is full of water. You wouldn't be able to get it hot enough to soften the steel. If you want to use heat the compressed air/torch method is best...

It should be noted that water compresses very little even under high pressure. As such water at 450psi is far safer than air at 80psi in this application. But if care is taken the compressed air and heat method can result in great results and previously made a video using this method: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i8V8ds-Fvs-Vl40.htmlsi=_obqMF-ZvUA0FD87

@@TokyoOffroad That's true, Ill concede to that. Air and heat just seems so much easier.

Hydrostatic pressure is much safer than compressed air to form metal. Its been an industrial process for decades to test high pressure bottles at thousands of PSI.