I don't think every type can be put on it's side, I'm guessing it has to be a bladder tank

Curious about this too

their flow rate. "there" is a location.

I doubt very much that you are actually putting in new cracks in the bedrock when hydro-fracking, what I think is really happening is that you blow back some of the finer silt out of the 'filter cake' that fills up around the water extraction point when finer silt / material gets sucked in between some of the coarser material and that eventually blocks it tight and slows down the water extraction. When you hydro-frack that borehole you essentially blow the fines out of the coarser materials and opens up the water vein again allowing for a higher water extraction rate again. Now how long that lasts I guess is up to chance, maybe the fines are blown far enough away from the extraction point that then don't come back and the effect lasts for a long time? That's probably the reason for the prolonged pump / flush time after the initial filter cake has been blown away?

Yup. Same technology, just smaller scale

@@h2omechanic you're doing great keep up the good work. Always enjoy watching you doing this. Highly educated videos. And you are right there are only a few of us left that works these trades.

Somewhat, only it appears that no proppant is used to keep the fractures open. But, he is correct about the possibility of the fracture extending to neighboring wells, as this is one of the conditions that must be monitored when fraccing oil and gas wells, given the possibility of exceeding the pressure rating of either the older casing, and/or the surface equipment on the older well(s).

You are using pump pressure to break down the formation's (water, or oil/gas bearing) resistance to accepting the frac fluid. As the pumping pressure increases, at some point the formation will start taking the fluid, and the pump pressure will decrease, as this indicates that a fracture has been initiated, increasing the pump rate will propagate the fracturing of the formation, by increasing the length and height of the newly created fracture. To keep the fracture open, after the pumping has stopped, some form of proppant (usually a cleaned and graded sand, but it could be a man-made proppant, which would be used on a high pressure well, as it would have a higher resistance to crushing, than sand), as the formation pressure works to 'heal' the fracture. The proppant would be blended into a gelled frac fluid to keep it in suspension as it is being pumped. The fractures allow the well to produce more water, or oil/gas, due to the increased surface area created within the formation, allowing more flow into the well bore. BTW, in the early days of the oil and gas industry, well "fracturing" was done by running a vessel filled with nitroglycerin to the required depth, and having it explode to create fractures within the formation, AND, in the late 1960's and early 1970's several wells were fracced by detonating low yield nuclear devices at the depth of the oil/gas formation, but while the concept was successful, the resultant radioactivity rendered the natural gas un-usable.

@@cementer7665 Nuclear explosion fracking? ? Holy moley that's going to be news to just about everyone.

All you need to do is make sure you have the DC inverted to AC and enough power to feed that pump. It's very simple, just going to cost a little bit of money. Grundfos makes DC pumps, but they're more expensive than a standard DC to AC setup.

Power is power. If your pump requires 48VAC for instance, at 2 amps, then as long as your power source can provide 2 amps at 48 VAC it dosnt matter if it is grid, solar, hydro, or a turbine full of meth-fuelled hamsters on hamster wheels.

Enduro cars/dirtbikes. But recently haven't had time.

No

Only solid rock formations

What size pump do you have? How old is it, & how deep is it. The most important thing is how deep is the water level? What brand pump is it? Or where did u buy it? Also try turning off the breaker & see if the pressure drops to 0. If it does, that's the issue...there's a leak somewhere in the drop pipe, probably a bad fitting at the pump leaking out most of your pressure.

Hi, Thank you so much for the quick response. I don’t know the depth of the well and depth of water level also. Pump is more than 15 years old. I don’t know where it was bought, it was already dropped before I moved into this house. I will buy long tape and try to measure the depth of well. I might rent a tool to measure depth of water surface. Good thing is we still have water and pump runs - continuously. 😅. When breaker is off, pressure does not drop to zero quickly at least for 5 minutes. It lingers at 42 PSI Thank you.

Size is HP 1/2 - I got this information from control box.

Your pump is simply worn out & it's time to replace it. I'd recommend replacing all fittings with brass or SS. Turn off the breaker when your not using water so it won't kill the pump, til u can replace it

Thank you for your recommendation. I will replace it myself and let you know any updates. Thank you.

It wouldn't damage it, it could connect to the other wells water vein. Rarely happens unless it's within 50ft

Va

Will you come do some fracking in Georgia? We have two wells that need it. Maybe drill an extra well too.

@posey papus Diaz family Ya on the way stop and frack mine

Fracking trucks are around $400k for a complete drivable rig, that's why so few companies have them or travel with them. But it gives me good ideas to possibly expand in the future. Fuel just costs so much.

I noticed that, too.

Lube will save your wrists from Carpal Tunnel syndrome.

Every phone face camera does it.

@@h2omechanic It can be changed...

@@h2omechanic DSoesn't explain how... :-)

I always love it when you see those South African adverts for saving water, with quotes like 'if its yellow let it mellow' saying if you stop flushing the toilet when you flush you save 9 litres (2.4 US gallons) per piss which can add up to 144 litres (38 US gallons) per day of water saved, at the cost of your house stinking of piss. How about fixing the obvious? 9 litres is complete overkill for a poo, never mind a piss. Half a litre (0.1 US gallons) is perfectly fine for a piss, and even a shit should only need one full litre (0.2 US gallon). Sort the toilet out, stop using toilets from the 1950s, and you can save a LOT of water without having your house stink of piss....

Funny , my wife is not going to live OFF Grid .

Probably using ancient toilets that blast 9 litres through every time you flush when half a litre is perfectly fine for a piss,

It's important and it's commonly done poorly. (I guess) My well was (is) wired with 3 wire molded cable, I'll guess it's purpose made for that application.