Thanks, we hope it was helpful.

You are correct. On site we would not go bare handed. This video was done at our training facility with manufactured clogs. Still for training purposes I should have maintained the same standard. Good catch, thanks for the comment.

It depends on if you are upstream or down stream of the problem. If you need to push it down stream something like the Warthog head works. If you need to pull them back then a cleaning head with only backward facing jets would usually work the best.

If you have a powerful enough pressure washer and the right head, you can cut roots, up about the size of a pencil, but that's going to take like 4000 psi at 7 gpm with a reverse turbo nozzle. If you just have the fine hair like roots, you can get away with like 3000 psi at 3 gpm.

Yes, we have an extensive collection of heads and 3 different Jetters to allow us to attack different situations properly.

Jetters are the top choice, but sometimes a auger or flex shaft is a better option to start with, at least get a hole in the clog to let the pipe be draining before jetting it. Although the best option is to work from the street back, but that's often not easy or even an option at the time. Plus, working from street to house, you have to be careful and not let the nozzle come up in a toilet and make a mess. There are things that can be done to minimize water coming back, like hold a towel over the pipe.

Although it is not shown in the video, we do wrench tighten the heads. However we in general try not to over torque them.

Which one did you get, the 1/4 head? What psi and gpm are you using? I think that would take care of 80% of anything I would do, and a reverse turbo would finish it up for me.

The Reaper is a great head. We use both. The Reaper is a better penetration head and the Warthog is a better cleaning head but both are great.

I cannot speak to someone else’s methods. In general we would not use that specific technique, not being on site and seeing the situation I really can’t say if the technique was appropriate or not. Sorry I’m not more help with this one.

In general the grease/cleaning head will push things forward. There are also heads designed to push mostly forward. Also the penetrating heads can do well in that regard.

Mostly you don’t want it to just sit and hammer in one spot for minutes at a time.

It can with the proper head. Your supplier can give you options for it.

Many places can supply heads. The real issue is sizing them correctly to your equipment. I have found Jetters Northwest to be a very good source.

The only thing you might need is a business license for the town/city you are working in. Of course it helps to know what you are doing and to have a good bit of experience, and for the people you are doing the work to trust you. If you get a nozzle stuck in a drain, are you prepared to do what it takes to fix it? Which could be busting up a concrete floor, and would you have the equipment, like a camera with a locater to know where to dig? Usually the clogs are just clogs and you can clear them, but what will you do when you are in some old terracotta pipe and shatter it, are you going to be able to dig it up and repair it? Having a camera can save you from a lot of issues. Years ago I pressure washed, and I had years of experience, I knew how to handle different materials, such as concrete, brick, and vinyl siding. Then came along a bunch of kids in dads pickup truck and a pressure washer offering to pressure wash houses for a lot less. Some of my customers decided to go that route, while they saved 100.00, the 1000's of dollars of damage done was not good, you are wondering what could they have damaged? Just a few examples, double pane vinyl windows tell you, do not pressure wash them, it will break the seal and fog up the glass, plus voids the warranty, so a few thousand dollars for window replacement on a 100.00 job? Had several other homeowners end up having to replace ceilings and insulation in the attic, because they sat there and sprayed the eve vents, sending many gallons of water into the attic. So yes, simple things can turn very expensive very quickly. I have a friend who has a master plumber license, he knows a lot about how things are supposed to be put together to work correctly and be correct for code/inspection to pass. I on the other hand am not a plumber, but I have lot more common sense than he has and can figure out how to do some things he struggles with, together, we do well.

In our area we are not required to have a plumbers license to clean drains. That is one of the reasons we have our own training facility to train and certify our personnel in house.

Most manufacturers sell a version. Jetters northwest is a good source.

2500 to 4000 is most jetters.

There is a huge variance but to use these particular 3/8” heads we are running 9gpm at 3300 psi.Also Gpm is generally more important than psi.

Yes we use a product called a zip drain. We can also use a vacuum system to pull the waste away as we jet. Great question.

@@davidmize8489 Awesome. Thank you 👍

Yes the demonstration was 3/8”. However we have machines and heads from 1/8” to 1/2”. And of course for commercial applications they go much larger.

Ford, Heinz, General Mills, Snap-on, Dewalt, Kline, Rigid, Levi's, how many more would you like?

It is a 3/8” Warthog brand head.

Depending on the size of the roots, if just fine hair like, 3000 psi at 3 gpm with a reverse turbo nozzle will work, if the roots are bigger, say up to pencil size, you will need some serious power, like 4000 psi at 7 gpm. While they do charge a lot for jetting, that price sounds a little bit high. After they charged my friend 800.00 at his restaurant to jet a clog(mostly grease, food) and the next day line was clogged again and they said they would charge again to come back(and this was a big name plumbing company) that's when I decided to try jetting, I already had pressure washers from cleaning driveways and a year earlier, I had bought a 100 ft jetter hose that came with a couple of those basic nozzles, on my first try at my friends restaurant, hit a clog at 30 ft, then one at 50 ft. I pulled the hose back and forth at those areas a few times, went ahead and ran the whole 100 ft(it was 135 ft to street) and then pulled the hose out and changed to that spinner head he used, that's was 8 months ago. A month after I cleared the line, I bought a camera, inspected that line and it is very clean, saw just a tiny spot of grease(about the size of a quarter) where that 30 ft clog was at. I used my smaller unit, 3000 psi at 3 gpm to do that, I have not used my bigger set up yet, 4000 psi at 8 gpm, but will soon.

@@stevem1081 Thanks... So far, my one time use of my 3000 pounder with reverse head has seemed to work... Still need to camera the line though. Will do that sometime this summer.

Certifications are from The International Institute of sewer and pipe cleaning. Certifications I hold from them include. 1)Safety 2) Operations 3) Jetting. I hope this is helpful.

I know that warthog is 8 gpm at 4000 I have one.

@@markkolecke6025 Thank you.

Mark is correct on that head. The best practice is to always size the heads to your machine’s specifications, a good supplier really helps in that regard.

Price sar

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Unfortunately I have to carry the burden of being so dang handsome.

I would love it if they had a much more degradable product available.

@@davidmize8489 The world needs it. It’s too bad big business cares more about profits.

Our experience is apparently different than yours. We have had very good results with that head as demonstrated in the video. If it is not working well for you the G.P.M. of your machine might not be enough for your particular head. It’s important to match the spec’s of your machine to the heads you use. Hope this helps.

@@davidmize8489 I matched the nozzle to the machine, in fact I go as far as to use a pressure gauge and even check the flow rate to be sure. Like I said, it does a tiny bit of good. Every other pro site also says that nozzle is fairly poor in performance. With the standard cleaning nozzle, I wouldn't stick my hand in front or behind it, as it can take a few layers of skin, but not so with that spinning nozzle, it is spinning so fast, that it's losing most of its potential to clean. I have been tempted to redrill one at less of an angle, or even change the direction of one of the holes to slow down the spin rate. I know there are other nozzles that already do that, but if I can make a 5.00 nozzle work a lot better, that would be great. I have been looking at the ENZ ROTOJET nozzles, but haven't gotten one to try yet. I am leaning more towards a reaper nozzle, or even a reverse turbo as a super cleaning nozzle. I run between 3 setups, 1 is 3000 psi @ 3 gpm, / another is 4000 psi @ 4 gpm and the last is 4000 psi @ 8 gpm