But we never needed to cool our vacuum boasters

I'm sorry Fred. I just wasn't that organized. I made some parts also, it was kind of a pain. The kits are probably worth it honestly, especially when I accounted for how much I spent in hydraulic lines. But I can say it works great.

Jeff Depaul I don’t blame people for asking. If you’ve never seen the inside of a steering box it’d be easy to wonder. But in both the steering box and hydroboost unit there is always a mechanical connection. The hydraulics just assist. How do you like your hydroboost?

nighthawkdotcom I’m laughing because they can’t even handle the regular pressure! But in all seriousness i think it should be fine. Not like the 90’s boxes have crazy seal technology. It’s that same Saginaw design. New ones are different obviously.

Strange that both need replacement. The prior owner must’ve done no maintenance.

Just replaced a master cylinder on my Duramax with hydro boost, came in at $102.59 for a new one. Nothing special about it really.

Got hydraboost on my 06 f250.

I think I kept it all the Diesel K2500 equipment, that way I was sure it all matched up. The only trick was the custom plunger rod which is working but it is a mickey-rigged setup where I cut and welded the end of a pushrod and then sanded it down. But it works. Honestly I think any of the hydroboost systems would work unless you are running some crazy braking system. The astor master cylinder may not work because of the angled bracket those have.

Wow. I’m sorry that’s beyond my knowledge.

Thanks! Yes that part is the same but you also have to bleed the power steering system and that takes longer than the normal way.

This is way outside my expertise because I’ve never worked on an ABS car but if you put a gun to my head I’d guess it’s a mismatched master cylinder to the hydroboost. The rod length between the HB and MC is critical. Your sounds too short. Could also be the disk brake conversion. Doubt the ABS would have anything to do with it. Does the 07 have a proportioning valve? Of yes you may need to “reset” it if during the process you had a low pressure situation in your rear brakes. I’m just guessing through. Too many variable for me to narrow it down.

Well I may be a year late, but I'll throw in my 2 cents. That era of Silverado with ABS, those can be unusually weird to bleed, regardless of whether it uses hydroboost or not. What I've found, is I have to use a pressure bleeder. Or a good vacuum bleeder, either way. Start at the back and vacuum until you start getting fresh fluid. Then you will need your bi-directional scan tool. Bleed all four wheels, then use the scanner to activate the ABS/BPMV bleed function. I recommend running it a couple of times, then vacuum/pressure bleed all 4 wheels starting at the back again and moving forward. I had to do that procedure 6 or 7 times to get decent pedal feel, on the last silverado I did, where I changed out the master cylinder and booster. Just remember, bleed once, then bleed the ABS pump, then repeat several times.

Will do just need to finish my house and then the Scout comes back in and I’m back on it

Only if it has two returns

I think it was a CPP 605 but it was three years ago so please double check

No I bought pump with two returns. Diesel truck pump. Don’t remember the year.

@@MattsGarage thanks for the quick reply!

I think it was a 89 diesel k2500? It’s been so long I don’t remember.

I’d recommend keeping it on the return from the ps box because it does more work (gets hotter) than the hydro boost.

Lot of miles? I’ve had zero issues

Did you find a fix for locking up brakes?

Could be yes. It could be the power steering pump, the power steering box or the hydro boost. I don’t know enough of that specific problem to say for sure.

When my truck stalls I have brakes. Maybe it sucks on big diesels but it works great on light vehicles.

Cool! Good luck! I’ve never seen it done on a car before.

@@MattsGarage thanks!