Awesome! Probably would cost half as much if it were a gas boiler. That’s what I’m going to be doing

@@Murphy326 Our off peak rate is half the regular residential rate. Last season 19/20 our total heating cost was under $550 for the whole season. If your using gas as an energy source you have to insure you supply combustion air for the boiler. With off peak electric there is no chance of monoxide accumulation in your modern tight home. Our neighbor has a similar system and has a CO1 problem and since CO1 (carbon monoxide) is heavier than air it settles in low spaces. The neighbors have an on grade home so the house fills with monoxide. (their system does NOT breathe right) If I may offer this advise. R50 cellulose the ceiling. Heat likes to rise and cold likes to fall and treated paper does NOT loose it's R value as gravity compresses it.

Tom n Surely all boilers made in the last thirty years are room sealed? They are in Europe. I haven't seen a non room sealed boiler in decades. It amazes me how the US is so far behind in so many aspect. People still use gas water heaters with open flues?! Furnaces are massive, inefficient and non condensing. In floor heating is considered a novel technology.. in Europe it's commonplace, increasingly run via a heat pump.

@@tomn5880 Thank you for this advice. This is what I heard too about cellulose, that with time, it does not loose its R value. I appreciate validation of this idea.

Fastening with clips also gives uniform depth which is very important when drilling anchors although using a thermal imager shows you exactly where the tube is at. So many guys cheat when it comes to the rebar.

@@hosiahmarczuk4174 If you mix water with the polypropylene solution you may get a leak from a stone in the sub straight, nail through the concrete or a bend in the pex tubing during the install. Using a stop leak for ought to fix the system. I have an electric boiler (15,000 btu) and I can make my house like a sauna when -40 F. If you think you have a leak you would have to add solution. In summer I use a standard AC system. I also have R 50 in the attic.

@@hosiahmarczuk4174 I'm not a jobber

I think it goes under the insulation.

Yeah, it's pretty much worthless laying on the insulation like that.

Some actually say not to tape joints and just overlap to allow moisture to escape. I used 2 layers of board and try to overlap, with the dried cement slab on it it will seal well.

They said to raise the mesh to the center of the slab but they didn't show that.

If you're going to the expense of using in floor heat, I'd use the good 1/4" 6x6 8' x 15' sheets. :)

yeah, and dukt tape? I was thinking there should be at least a 3mil barrier UNDER the foam.

Besides that, its not like the vapor barrier is expensive. You could get enough of it to lay it down twice in two different directions, tape those seams up and really make sure it isn't going to leak anywhere. I could see getting away with dukt tape for that (in a way) but why not just admit that you are doing a pricey project and do it right?

2 inches of rigid insulation usually complies with the permeability rating equal to 6 mil so it is really unnecessary.

yep so he gave up construction for acting career now he is mega rich and snorting coke off strippers tits

Who's that

They do huge jet hangers with them. This is very common for companies like American Airlines that have 747s on them. They hold up fine.

Foam has a higher bearing capacity than the ground does.

Turn to mush =open cell insulation. Closed cell insulation is what to they're working with= doesn't absorb moisture

@@kwaskeconstruction3382 Looks Like EPS should be XPS. EPS absorbs water.

I think they glued it in place with concrete

Probably best for dispersing heat

How is that possible ? Not use re.bar ?

There are plastic clips available that post into the foam and raise the tube up off the mesh.

I think that's a myth And if it's not I would like to see the data on it.

@@jeffsimon2144 Thanks for this reminder, Fang Liu. Plastic and metal should not touch each other at least if you plan to outlive your system. Left-over ¾" PEX can be used as sleeve. It will be more work to cut it to 25mm length and to slit it open axially and to place over the ½" PEX. Only then should the ¾"sleeve be attached to the white mesh. Another comment is to lift the wire mesh during pouring. The wire mesh should be ideally in the middle of the concrete, not at the bottom. Another comment is the use of rebar. Rebar is structural for the integrity of the flooring. This maybe needed in places where the ground is subjected to constant movement. Wire mesh is to keep the concrete around the PEX pipe together.

Looks at electrodacus.com he builds solar bms for lithium and designed his house to store extra heat from pv solar panels with silicon insulated wire as the heat elements he has the math on his instructions for the dmppt for concrete heat storage

@@joshpeterson7216 Thanks for the reply. Will let you know what eventually I get built and its performance

Matt damon /actor /ivy league/50th richest actor in hollywood

Sonny Lloyd s

The whole thing is little awkward but I guess it's not the sameasye when you are being filmed.

econgloberfan what do you mean "just to warm the floor"? The point of underfloor heating is it heats the whole space, no other heating system is required. It's more economical than conventional heating systems and provides a greater level of comfort. It's been common in Europe for decades.

Yes, as long as you don't puncture or abrade the tube.

Hydronic is the term associated with a liquid in a heating system. In this case it would be water or a water / antifreeze mix. "Underfloor" would mean it's under the slab, not within the slab. I have seen forced warm air systems installed under a floor, but they still need registers (vent openings) and whatever you put under the slab is prone to failure. In the old days (pre 1970) these warm air systems used something similar to sono-tubes that were coated with a wax substance. You can see how that might degrade over time, collapse, and restrict the flow.

That depends on area of build and the coldest degree days, I am in the north and prefer R20 in a heated slab...but depending where you are R10 will suffice

I'm pretty sure it's only there to keep the insulation boards together while poring the concrete. If the boards were to separate and concrete got in the crack, you'd have a thermal break.

It's still the best way to do it.

S O Depending on which side of the Atlantic Ocean it is. It looks like 1900-1910 in Europe or 2030-2050 in US.

There are no great change's and this is still current.