Thank YOU! Love your music! 👍

Your music is very cool and fits well with Matt and his channel! ♪ ♫

Here is the link to the video. Make sure you watch all the way to the end for the funny scene 😆kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l7F9Y5aCms-Yo6c.html

@@DieselCreek 🤣🤣 Awesome

Your Music Flows with Matt’s Videos so well seems like a perfect fit, I’m digging it just like so many other good Folks. Looking forward to the Future of your Music along with all the Content Flowing out of the Shop! You know much Like Ole’ Mortske, Matt’s Always a Week away from Loosing the New Shop!

Oh I’m certain lol

@@DieselCreek what about her friends and family lol.will they not let the cat out the bag. excellent video matt thank you.

That is funny, but females just don't understand lol

@sonic, thanks for using "xmas" instead of the overused "holiday"

I did this to my shop when we poured. actually set it at a bit of an angle . welded long peices of rebar to it and tied it into the rebar in the floor. Its held up great.

@mwreyf1 - I absolutely agree with your recommendation. As you point out, the thick angle iron will protect the concrete entrances - especially from your tracked vehicles !!

We had this for edges on an elevated section at work and it held up for 20 years and did not crack! It would get stuff smashed into it often but never even cracked.

Absolutely agreed! Put a piece of angle iron on the edge, or it will almost certainly become broken.

Yupp the more the better over time

Probably too late now, but the way the Detail Geek has done his is probably the way to go.

That's good advice. I would add that Matt should, as a matter of some urgency, install some form of heavy duty barrier around the small section of wall between the doors at the west? end. Sooner or later, somebody is going to hit that and it would be better to bounce off rather than bring it down.

@@robt2151 yeah add bollards or uprights pipes to deflect stuff, jersey barriers?

I would suggest that you run the drain lines in to a small basin that you can set up as an oil-water separator to catch any oils, greases, etc.. Also it will catch any sediment. You "do not want" the state EPA on your behind because you left a "sheen" on the creek (someone would classify it as a navigable waterway and it will result in major fines). You can toss in some spill diapers in to the oil-water separator or make a weir so the oils on the top do not escape and you can just suck those up. (speaking from previous experience as an engineer who was responsible for oil terminals where we had greasy surface waters from a gravel covered yard that had run-off that we had to manage. Also had a "special wastewater operator's license to deal with oil contaminated waters.)

@@TishaHayes "make a weir so the oils on the top do not escape" The other option is a syphon tube that leaves about 25mm of liquid in the bottom of the catch basin and starts draining 25mm below the lip. A common practice in my area for bunding around fuel tanks. A wet vac or puddle pump can deal with and remaining fluid if there is a concern over standing water etc.

I already bought a classic edge 250. Boilers are the best

@@DieselCreek if u have a pulp or lumber near they are a great source of sawdust or wood chips for heating fuel. They pay to get it removed I'm sure they be happy to have u come get it for free lol

@@DieselCreek Matt we all are looking forward to seeing you labouring away in the new shop, now in the dead of winter! Yippie! Oh, let's see more of Eva and Meatball as well. Thanks. Allan back on the ranch in frosty Cut Bank, Montana

@@allan9603 love meatball 🐶

@@Piglife101 , sure do. He's a barrel of laughs!

I have a commercially built version, I lay this pipe a hand full of times a year in Alberta canada. Do a slab that size in about 6 hours alone strapping to rebar. I love this style foam when the customers are willing to spring for it.

I reckon he copied Jesse Muller's pex coil turntable

My brother worked for an electrician, and he instructed all his guys to buy any "sit and spin" toy from the 70's. He used them for unspooling wire the same way you are doing pex

As an electrician, this type of thing (albeit on a slightly smaller scale) is nothing new.

AKA: SCOMN (shot coffee out my nose)

Absolutely agree!

Agreed, You'd need it to at least hold the column footings in place it becomes the "lower beam" to go with the spread bar at the top. With all that weight you don't want your footings twisting or spreading that's what the mesh stops.

Yeah Especially with all the heavy equipment. Better safe than sorry!

I just came to comment exactly this rebar definitely needed the heavy rigs you will be putting in that place including the overhead crane it’s reinforcement all the way.

I agree.You are not bringing cars and pickup trucks in that building.you are working on some very heavy equipment

I have the same mind as Matt. If it is saving money or it could be fun to try. I have met many people that say the cant do it. But then i ask have you tried to do it and the answer is no becouse i cant. Then i say if you havent tried how du you know you cant do it.

Sure, but issue is the lack of knowledge and mistakes he does while doing this. Like pex contribution block being right front of the door, witch means there is extra heat concentration there and you cant really build a technical room there to utilize that heat to increase temp in office combined with technical room to nicer temps while rest of the shop is milder temp but still nice for working on things, witch would save in heating costs and provide "clean room" for stuff that should not get dusty and dirty/temp sensitive materials. His foundation work makes little sense and using pressure treated indoors in big nono even if its not the horrid shit of the old days, nor there is plan for the future when eventually those pillars will rot out, cant just put it on the slab and while he already made the slab it makes little sense not to build the slab and build the building on top of that. His essentially making two buildings top of each other, the weather storage/a barn and proper shop floor. This design makes no sense and it wont be even cheaper or faster to do it this way. Further more rebar work was decent enough but you should always leave at very minimum 2.5cm gap, preferred 5cm to closest concrete edge so rebar wont be closer than that to concrete surface. Concrete despite its looks will let some air trough and oxygen in that will start rusting the rebar, witch expands and pops/cracks the concrete, specially bad if concrete is wet this will happen in just years instead of decades. There has been sooo many works sites i have been, where workers installed the rebar too close and it crack the concrete. To fix this issue one needs to jack hammer larger area out to expose rusted rebar, clean and replace the issue parts and put them where those belong before making repair pour. This is rather expensive and stupid, when spending just little bit more time in install would have prevented this from the start. Sure if its designed to be torn down soon after, do what ever, but my professional integrity does not allow to build anything that wont last the maximum possible time. Ideally building i'm making last longer me or couple following generations, given the basic maintenance is done right and in time. With design choices like this even that can be minimized to only needing to apply some paint, checking things regularly like leaks and cleaning when say organic stuff collects to places like gutters. One should have good reputation professional to consult with stuff like this. I do on off time lots of stuff i have no fucking idea from the get go, but part of that process is to study to the fine detail what it requires, so one does not make mistakes like this.

I have actually developed more ambition and gotten more work done this summer because of watching Matt's channel. I think it's the sections with high frame rate that encouraged me most."nothing to it but to do it"

That's some good info, I wouldn't even have thought of it like that. Thank you for advice, I'll definitely keep this in mind.

very valid points

I was thinking the same thing as he was running the lines. I also would have run the lines in zones so if he wanted more or less heat in different areas he could control it. If there are 9 runs, make 9 specific zones.

@Ro Herms the early runs won’t help at all, they are long runs along the long side and end of the building. Yes I’m being critical but I would have liked it in square zones. As you mentioned though, it will work. 😃

I was wondering about that. Makes perfect sense. Thanks for pointing that out.

I like this idea, a trough would catch water or snow melt and then freeze your doors closed in MN anyway, maybe in PA it’s not as crappy as it is here but warms in the day and melts and as soon as the sun goes down it’s 15-20 degrees and then your doors are froze closed.

@@Flyanb could always make the door shut half inch to an inch higher than the outside grade so you wont get water coming under the door unless it floods and wont have an issue with the door freezing shut

Our garage has that on our house, except instead of a pipe, the concrete is raised to create a sort of half dome where the garage door sits

Nowadays they use prehung doors which comes with a threshold you can hang the door higher so the thresholds night not right on the concrete like put a piece of treated two by six on the concrete first sealed all up with construction adhesive

Yeah that is another thing besides the "Not optimal pex runs" When i had it installed they used standoffs so that the rebar was lifted and not in the bottom. I guess the knobs on the foam board will help a bit, but i would also have put something in, to raise the rebar

This! Also add bigger diameter bars near the footings, also the rebar of the footings should be on or in the top layer of rebar, this way the whole mesh carries the load insteaf of that itty bitty concrete it comes in to contact with.

@The Unordinary Pastor oh right! Geez I hope Matt reads your comment & the other replies to your comment, as they could be very important! He's only got a couple of inches of mesh overlap at the moment so yeah. Oh & no stool spacer things either! Careful Matt!

Also I didn’t see the concrete expansion foam between the concrete slab and the walls

@@TheFbingha yes, I’ve seen that but it’s not how it is supposed be done

You're a lucky man... just the right time before corona and prices trippeling 😬😅😅

@@rubenbraekman4515 You got that right. I bought insulation, a bunch of 1/2" plywood for the walls and steel for the ceiling just a few months before prices went out of control.

Sorry for the wall of text. I have 20 years of experience and way too much knowledge on the subject. 🤣

@@@brianblank9921 Hi mate! Wow I hope Matt reads your comments!

You can drill and chemset starter bars in later. A lot of people do since it's such a hazard having rebar sticking out of anything

I live on a WINDY hill in VT and have never had any kind of water blow under my garage doors. All that extra work and figuring for pipes (that may be pushed up out of the concrete if water gets under them and freezes) and getting them level to the door is a bunch of extra work for nothing (in my opinion)

Cheers mate

No shame in getting a contractor, there's only yay many hours in the day and atleast a couple hours a week need to be happy hour. My home shop is currently an unheated, uninsulated garage with tarps over a gravel floor.. It's frosty work in a VT winter. Can't wait to upgrade somemore.

I love floor heat but to make it recover faster a forced air furnace should be installed to provide faster heat recovery after opening a door in sub zero temps.

Same to you!

@@DieselCreek gobble gobble gobble ..................

Nice idea. So did you have one main panel and then run a large feeder (nice thing is only one is needed) across to the other side to a subpanel?

Yeah in intend to do something along this for a house. I want the most roof and floor insulation I can get. I would rather pay next to nothing for heat and cooling that to pay a lot. My current home energy is way beyond what it should be. Yet a newly insulated floor and roof would reduce the cost over the building life and an extra 3 or 5k now could be paid off in 10 years or less in savings, more if you include inflation. The other thing I want to do as well is add in a solar panel array that is just for heating the floor. Not to run it full time yet to produce enough heat during the day and dump any and all extra heat in to the garage are while keeping the house at the set temp. All of that extra heat in a shop like this would ideal as it does not matter how hot it gets in there you just open a door and cool it off. Its better to have a hot area than a cold area. Plus laying on the slab would be super ideal. I am not sure how the new boilers work these days. I know older ones had holding tanks in which they were heated. Adding some thermostats DC heaters would be more than enough to keep some areas hot.

@fraynie91 yeah lol! I'd like to see Eva's reaction to bare feet on warm concrete in the middle of winter!

If you have access to a commercial walk in freezer commonly found in restaurants, just walk into one of those and you'll have an idea of what it's like here in the frozen. If you want it to be more authentic, make sure your clothes are damp before you walk in. And definitely yes to the vermin. You'll never entirely keep them out, but using those green poison blocks on the inside and the safer Rat-X feed poison on the outside will go a long way.

I live in Central NSW, Australia but have spent some time in Northern Illinois and surrounds and know how cold it can get over there. The novelty of snow runs out quickly after having to shovel it. Just glad we don't have to put underfloor heating in our sheds here. Well done to Matt for doing as much as he can himself.

2" is the usual minimum for a flash coat of spray foam in a cold climate

@@mattywho8485 insulation 28+feet over head? I'm positive Mat is looking to seal crack and crannies at the top! Avoiding chimney affect drawing in cold untreated air at his work level! He did mentioned bats on the walls. I believe he is letting the project evolve as he moves causally through all criticism! I'm pretty sure they can increase thickness as needed. You go Mat, I see what you mean about some peoples comments.

How could a sweat if he does the vapor barrier on the warm side of the insulation?

will you be zoning the heat tubing so you can regulate the temp if a mild situation and if colder you run full blast????

Didn't he say in the previous video that the toilet and shower will go outside the shop in the area with the roof overhang? So no need for plumbing in the main shop.

I also thought he would have at least run a water line into the shop. Having water on hand is handy to have. Whether your just washing your hands, filling a rad or putting out small fires. Etc.

@@sweetmammoth7067 what makes you think that he won't do that?

@@Jehty_ Matt has already laid everything under the floor that he's going to be putting inside the main shop. If he was going to run a water line, he would have showed it in the video. Would you run a water line on top of the shop floor, taking up space and potentially freezing the line by having it outside?

@@sweetmammoth7067 why would you put a waterline under the floor?? Just put it in the wall.