I have a same noise in my car. Can you suggest me what should i do? Or how to fix it? Thanks in advance

Thanks. I know if i should keep the oil or change it

I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra and I just put Noble 1 5W30 in as that's what the cap says 5W30 and now I hear the ticking noise all the time which I did not hear prior to when I had 10w30

@@daby8399 if the car has more than 75K miles, High Mileage oil should be used.

Do you recommend changing the oil filter too along with the high mileage oil. I'm having this issue

I always replace rhe filter when changing oil...

I have also the same problem with my 2014 elantra, when the engine was cold and started it these ticking noise comes up but when the engine is getting hot the noise disappear

Fake story for dummies

And is it still ticking?

Thank you fornposting this. A tiny bit of reassurance.

@@Ernestosv982 yes and over480000 kms

@@medrickgodin8865that’s awesome! I have a 2019, same engine tho as the 2013 pretty much and I noticed putting the engine treatments and changing my oil every 3-4000km helps dramatically with my Elantra, I don’t know if you do the same? Mine burns oil like you wouldn’t believe. So I have to change it more frequently. I have about 160,000 km on there right now so hearing that your Elantra is going strong, makes me more confident then I was 😂

@@chinaboss6683 Cars are sensitive machines. Sometimes messing with something you think is a problem or it really is but is minor, can create an even bigger problem that you may not even be able to fix at that point.

I agree. I find that ticks or mild knocks that go away once warmed up aren't worth doing anything about. I've had many cars tick when cold that went well over 200k miles.

@@wigletron2846 Well, guess what: I ended up having to get rid of that car last year when the tick got worse. And Hyundai refused to replace the engine. So I traded it in. It's possible the car could've lasted another 3 years or only 3 weeks, but I couldn't take the risk and let her go. One thing is for sure: I'll never buy Hyundai again.

Dakota Elli my friend lost his car the dealership told him he wasn’t Cover 2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS 78,000 Miles Second Owner And The Repair for a new engine was $3,000 He didn’t know what to do and he had a Loan of $8,000 on it

Oscar T I have the same problem and I don’t know what to do. The dealership told me that there aren’t any recalls about it.

vPanda- CA There it’s Not Recalls On This Issue But Try To Contact Hyundai Warranty Directly, They May Extend the Warranty Coverage For You Since it’s Something Related To the Engine, My Friend Didn’t Know He has a New Car Now And A Big Loan To Pay

Did they ever say what was causing the noise and how it originated??

Model year?

Hyundai Accent has a gamma engine, they don't have this kind of issues, the problem is mainly on Theta and Nu engines.

@@AlexisLobos so what would cause this noise on an accent? My car is doing this and we can’t figure out what it is!! It gets louder and faster with acceleration but rarely hearing when traveling 60+, maybe every once in a while if accelerating up a hill and don’t have the music on I’ll hear it “clicking” real loud for a second and then Goes away, but is very noticeable when going under 20 mph and upon startup and when just idling.

Let us know if it worked. I have the same issue with 2013 Accent with 100k miles.

​@@paytensplace5046hi there i know this comment is over two years but i want to ask you if you found out the problem on that Hyundai accent a friend of mine has a 2016 and i noticed that does exactly the same thing your mentioned . I'll appreciate it if anyone one can tell me

💯 true 👍

Depending on how bad the slap is, it can quiet it down very noticeably.

We’re you using synthetic oil?

Yeah. Marvel Mystery Oil or just oil change more often until it goes away. MMO has detergents to get the carbon out. Oil has detergents too. So if you were to change the oil more often it would do the same.

Hey Valerie. If you still have your Elantra, you might want to check the more recent videos from World Mechanics and others to see if your engine is on the list of 1.8 liter engines with well known ticking problems that can result in complete engine failure. There is some key info in the comments too, just search for 2010 Elantra to see what people have learned so far. Hyundai did replace the core of my Elantra engine without cost as soon as it developed the ‘piston valve slap’ ticking sound at around 110,000 kms. I thought i was fortunate to have a ‘new’ engine but my car developed the same problem after another 60,000 kms. Today my car is stuck at the dealership garage with an estimated repair cost which is nearly double what the car is worth. It won’t run so my only option may be to have it towed away to salvage. I feel fortunate for getting a lot of use out of a used Elantra that I didn’t pay much for, but i wish i could have traded it in to help my daughter buy a vehicle. 🤔 My recommendation would be to make a move sooner rather than later to a car with a better rep. while your car still has some value. Good luck!🤞

Never,never,never use an oil treatment in your oil. Use amsoil 5-20.

Ontario resident here as well with a 2015 Elantra. Just noticed the noise today. How long will your car be in the shop?

@@viktorsosic7487 Not too sure, I,'m sure I'll get a loaner. Make sure you have paperwork for oil changes.

I thought hyundais in Canada are from Korea

Any updates

I was just told the same thing by the dealer after a service on my 2014 1.8 i30. its done 255,000km but the oil and filter changed every 7,500 religiously and has lived its life on Castrol edge. They said its making a rattling noise, when I started it, it was fine. Its always had a tick in the top end from new, when you start it from cold. When it does it, if you stop the engine wait a few seconds and restart, the tick is gone.

How is your car today? I have the same 2015 Elantra and it needs a new motor and the dealer won’t replace it

Was it fixed?

How much it cost to do that?

@@mimia3510 4-6k

i have the same issue same exact car

Same I just took it to my dealership, hopefully they will fix it

Or just a major tune-up right?

I replaced my spark plugs and coils, and it's still making the noise.

Knock sensor or catalytic converter

@@jessemcnabb8356 i think the knock sensor

What ended up being your problem? I have the same issue with my accent right now

I talked to my dealer and they wouldn’t fix it. I have a 2015 83,000 miles Elantra. Because I am the second owner they won’t fix it. They wanted me to pay for half. Why should I pay for their error? I am angry and don’t know what to do

Yes

Absolutely

pnavan I don’t know if you got this repair done already or not but the inhibitor switch is a very common recall on some Hyundai’s. I work in a Hyundai Service drive and I would bring your car in to see if there are any active recalls. Some vehicles are getting a free oil change as well so I would recommend a dealership visit at some point

Yeah. Sounds like caked up valves to me. Not sure if this is GDI or not. Needs a walnut blasting or something.

Im having the same issue... I've taken it to a dealership and they fixed it under warranty but now it's back

did you find solution to ticking probelm issue

How's it now ? Im suffering for the same knocking

3750 of what;miles or kms?

@@ismarmeskovic miles

@@ZynovFTW Hi. I have a 2013 with 50k miles. About 45k it started ticking. I use synthetic oil. Do I need to change it that soon with synthetic? Plus, I also use mobile one synthetic filter. What do you suggest on that? Thanks

Where can I find the filter?

@ZynovFTW my 2015 still runs does the same sound I've changed alot oils now im with shell but it didn't fix the problem or anything still sound the same

Did you call them? How did you get connected with them?

@@joshuasinnema9107 The rep at the dealership acknowledged this was happening and asked me to call corporate to submit a ticket and get a case number. There were some eligibility requirements I had to pass. I can’t remember the exact qualifications, but it had to do with cold weather climate and driving conditions. No issues being in Florida. It’s as if the government and Hyundai settled on this recall and that is why it wasn’t broadcasted and every engine replaced.

If it works well it would change gears

Use 93 gas and it will stop

@@nathanieldinnwiddie6901 makes no difference. Its either the fuel injection system or the hydraulic lifters imo. Not a problem and shes put hundreds of thousands of miles on them this way.

Try to use thicker oil. Because I’m in hot climat country. I use 10w40 semi syn all the way. I bought the car used 90km and now I’m at 125km no ticking. Mine was 1.6 mpi gamma engine

With 95 pump gas

@@desmondgreatdevil different engine my grandma's engine is the 1.8l Nu, not the 1.6l Gamma. It's never ever been a problem you don't even hear then engine unless it's running and you open the hood

Are you still having this problem? I'm having the same issue

Im having the same issue. Changed the oil. New spark plugs and coil pack. It still sounds the same.

5w 40 ?

5/30

C sep your local Hyundai dealership would know. Ticking noises in these models are quite common and could result in the replacement of your engine

So keep changing it early af? Lol

I have the same problem. I think it may be the knock sensor =(

I just left it alone. Each time I get a check up. Nothing comes up... they don’t find anything

I'm having a similar problem and my cars the same year. It just started happening like a week ago.

I have the same problem in my 2015, the dealer wants me to pay for half of the new motor needed

U herald what he said the manual said to do that in colder climates

I've read that the 2.0 engines are made to run on 5w30 but 5w20 is recommended to get better fuel economy.

@@iflarnted yeah I just found my owners manual (it was mia) and it does list 5w-30 and even 10w-30 as suitable depending on temperature. I’m in Az so I’ll try 5w-30 as summer approaches.

You can run 5/30 it’s fine it’s for warmer climates

recall and recall this is piston slap your engine are toast

How much you think its gonna cost if youre going to change the hudraulic lifters?

Those have what's known as bucket lifters that sit over the valve and spring and the cams sit over the top and operate directly on the top of the lifter , aftermarket set from ebay and do the work yourself , around $150 unless you also change belts and/or gaskets if needed .

Gordon L they actually used a thicker oil, it calls for 5w20 but they put 5w30 in. Which is thicker not thinner buddy. 🙂

30 is thicker.

Same problem here

Any updates?

0W20 is too thin , 5W30 would work much better .

Is it an elantra?..i have a 2011 and it knocks on start up too, they say its a defect on these models and hyundai doesnt make it too public i i hear you can take it to the dealer and they will replace the engine free..its a recall actually..theres a video on that..

@@renehettinga6610 is there a mileage limit on this recall? I have 2014 Elantra doing same thing

your engine could be "pinging" (pre-ignition), did you have it diagnosed or repaired?

Was it very expensive to fix?

@@ddallen733 about 335$ with everything

@@jaydizzledyal1992 thanks

Did it fix it and is it going to stay fixed? I'm not to sure if mines the lifters or something else. When I first start it up it makes a loud sound kind of like it might be the lifters but then it goes away. I'm assuming if it's bad lifters you'd hear it all the time correct? Also, if I start my car then turn it off and start it again I don't hear it. And if I do it makes significantly less noise.

i have elantra 2012 too. what oil (number and brand) do you use. thanks

Same one that he uses. Castrol Magnatec 5W-30. He is one of the best sources of Hyundai Elantra repairs in youtube. That’s why I follow him.

@@aizensouske8872 hey is your car manual?

Can Doğan yup it is a manual.

How many miles do you have and which filter do u use

I have a 2016 Elantra as well. It recently started making this noise and I'm unsure why. Did you ever figure out what's wrong with yours?

You both should take it to the dealer if you are the first owner as they can put in a new motor if it needs it. They wouldn’t help me with mine because I am second owner.

It stopped already. It isn't an issue anymore. I have checked with my mechanic and says if it comes and goes shouldn't be bad.

Nicolle Mendoza I have the same issue. I’m the second owner 🤦‍♂️ I’m taking my 2016 Elantra GT into a shop to get it diagnosed

David murling My 2011 does the same exact thing.. I was told it’s a cracked heat shield but I think it’s just normal on these cars.

My 2015 sounds also has a ticking noise on mornings

I too have the same problem. Please let me know that exact fix. I raise this to dealership but they refused bcz my car warranty has expired. I bought this new car in 2014.

It's a common and completely normal thing with GDI engines. GDI fuel injection makes a ticking noise.

@@sploitx5066 Just an FYI to those reading comments. The 2018 Elantra (original post) has some engines with GDI and some with MPI. So this doesn't apply to all.

Fahad Rajpurkar what was the purpose for the expiration? Year or mileage?

jsphburk, this is due to years. And I didn’t extended.

The engine warranty for original owners is 10yr/100k miles isn't it? They should have honored their warranty.

Same issue with my because I am the second owner I am out of warranty. Now I have a 2015 Elantra with 83,000 miles that’s motor is going to trash because they won’t fix it

compressor?

Hey there Carbon Crank...... Here is what you said "when the oil is cold it has less viscosity and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size so you have too much clearance between parts until they expand.". Please note this part: "when the oil is cold it has less viscosity and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size so you have too much clearance between parts until they expand." More specifically this part that REALLY got me., "and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size so you have too much clearance between parts until they expand." Viscosity (noun) · viscosities (plural noun) The state of being thick, sticky, and semifluid in consistency, due to internal friction: "cooling the fluid raises its viscosity" Modern oil is a multi-viscosity oil to PREVENT exactly what you're speaking about. At cold temps oil's viscosity is constant. a 50 or a 10.... viscosity stays constant. Below 32 degrees F, the oil changes to the lower viscosity oil, because the clearances are TIGHTER when cold, you dumb ass. Metal will expand ... ALLL the metal, not only the crank. Also, the forces of the change in momentum are not applied to the crank and connecting rod "shells" (LOL). Those forces are LATERAL to the journals. Man, it's like my 14 year old wrote a post on KZfaq after listening to grandpa talk shop from the 40's.. You don't sound intelligent with all of this shit. It makes you sound like a un-informed know-it-all. This entire comment rubbed me so wrong that I had to leave this diatribe in hopes that since you posted this. Damn man, this thing pissed me off.

​@@gamersroost You arrogant prick. Earth made you think I didn't know what viscosity meant? Everybody uses multi-grade oils now. It's a given that Multi-grade oils make cold oil flow better when it's cold. And that's it. Period. It circulates quicker and builds oil pressure faster when it's cold than if it was thick, but if you think cold oil lubricates as well as warm oil then you're a dumbass. "Below 32 degrees F, the oil changes to the lower viscosity oil, because the clearances are TIGHTER when cold, you dumb ass." No, the clearances are not tighter when the engine is cold. There goes your credibility because you've got that thing about clearances backward. (I addressed that below) The oil is lower viscosity so that it will FLOW faster and fill the spaces where oil has drained away overnight quickly, you dumbass. Here you talk out of both sides of your mouth when you said "More specifically this part that REALLY got me., "and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size so you have too much clearance between parts until they expand." You say that part really got you you got but instead of addressing whether what I said about Metal Parts expanding was right or not you went into a diatribe about viscosity that didn't tell me anything I didn't already know. But then in the following paragraph, you said "Metal will expand ... ALLL the metal, not only the crank." isn't that exactly what I said? My advice simply stated don't put any load on the engine until it's had time to build oil pressure and warm up a little. I don't know where you get the notion that clearances (tolerance) are tighter when the engine is cold. Metal contracts when it's cold and expands when it's hot. Which has a higher diameter? A cold piston or a hot piston? Which has a larger diameter, a cold connecting rod or a hot connecting rod? What has a larger diameter, a cold crankshaft or a hot crankshaft? Low viscosity oil flows better so it more quickly fills the larger spaces with oil than if it was thick but it still doesn't lubricate as well until it's warmed up and the parts are designed to be the right size at operating temperature. If there's less clearance when cold then explain these fun facts to me. Higher mileage engines that burn oil and smoke when they're cold but not when they're warmed up. Some Racecar engines that do the same, engines on old warbirds that belch clouds of oil smoke when they first start but they don't smoke when they're warmed up. Some old engines knock when they're cold but the knock completely goes away when they're warm. And overheated engines where Pistons expand so much They seize up in the cylinder. That stuff you wrote about forces of the change in momentum had nothing to do with anything I wrote and why did you put shells in quotation marks with a lol? You're trying to sound like the expert here and you don't know what a crankshaft bearing shell is? You don't write like somebody that's very intelligent.. The highest wear rate of metal parts in engines is when the oil is cold and the parts aren't at operating temperature. I was simply giving advice on how to start an engine in a manner that creates the least amount of wear. I stand by everything I wrote and I think the advice is good. PS. I can see where you think I misused the word viscosity in my original post. I should have said it doesn't lubricate as well when cold but I think most people got the point and it didn't change my advice.

Check your coil packs

Spark plugs need changed

I agree i bought a hyundai i20 and it said this noise. And I got so scared. But after search on internet i found out that this was all normal. Im an kia mechanic myself and we also have picanto that sound like this from factory. And if you want to run a warrenty case. By sending the video of the noise. It almost everytime gets declined

they are two sounds together, one of them is the fault.

My Rio started making more noises, so I began paying attention to other Kia and Hyundai. Surprisingly they all have this noisy engines. Even brand new ones.

@tiago Can confirm. I have a 2020 forte gt line with 2.0. I only have 4500 miles on it. I freaked out but started doing research. I'm finding it's normal. I'm very sensitive to noises. I guess I'll roll with it. 100k warranty makes me feel a little better.

@@douchebaggins7 Yeah man I am the same way, Its almost a downfall because I worry for nothing. When I was hearing this with my sonata I literally went to a dealer and had them start and run the same car so I could put myself at ease. It looked and sounded exactly the same. I now have 60k miles and same sounds but never had a problem

GDI failed in iraq too cuz the fuel quality is so bad dohc 16V are the best one korea ever made

Is it automatic warranty extension or we have to do something?

I have a 2015 Elantra and my dealer won’t fix it says out of warranty car has 83,000miles and it is 5yrs old. They offered to pay for half but why should I pay for a manufacture error? 😡