Thanks, appreciate the feedback. Glad to hear the video is helpful

No problem at all. Happy to hear the video will help out, and you'll save some money too! Thanks for the great feedback

Thanks, appreciate both the great feedback and the tips. definitely will be helpful for other viewers! Glad to hear the video is helpful

Best way to get things done and save some coin too. Thanks for watching and for the great feedback! Really appreciate it!

That's awesome news, happy to hear the video was helpful! And hello from across the pond here in Canada!! So awesome that you found my video! Thanks for watching!

No problem at all. Glad the video will help out. Good luck!

No problem at all. Sometimes it is great to have these videos, even just to verify details. I have been working on cars for over 20 years, and even something simple like an oil change, I always double check the first time that I am working on that particular car. Never hurts to be sure. Glad to hear the video helped out.

@@NexusAuto started working on it at about 930am. And was back together by 11am. That was a great video. Thanks again

@@canada2241 nice! Doesn't get better than that! Thanks for the great feedback and update!

I agree 100%, love bolt on bearings lol. Makes life much easier. Glad the video helped! Thanks for watching.

Haha. I’m about to this I’m on my wife’s Santa Fe and I need to do it on my Jetta

Awesome news. Happy to hear the video will be helpful

Thanks, very much appreciated. Glad the video will be helpful.

Awesome, glad to hear the video was helpful. Hopefully all goes well. Thank you for watching!

@@NexusAuto Ugh, in the end I couldn't do it :( My axle is rust welded to the hub, I tried everything to get it unstuck - hammer, back and forth with the impact, soaked in rust removal overnight, etc. I threw in the towel and I'm bringing it to a mechanic. It would have been nice if I didn't live in the worst possible place for cars, Quebec. Everything over 10 years here is all rusted - and I've been rustproofing the car every year!

@@stanleyqc2244 oh damn, sorry to hear that. It always sucks when a job can't get completed. Sometimes, you have no choice and you have to bring it in. It was worth a shot and I applaud your attempt, for what it's worth. And i hear you, I am in Ontario and we get it bad, and I know how the winters are in Quebec, and all the road salt that goes with it. Some of out Southern American counterparts don't know this struggle (i had many conversations with them about this in the past). Good luck, hopefully the bill is not too high!

@@NexusAuto Thanks. I tell myself that I *almost* got it, so technically I would be able to change it on a different car that allows the removal of the hub bolts without removing the axle. Oh I see that you're in the rust belt too :) - yes, it is a real struggle here! Cars often won't last for more than 15 years because of it, and it's making repairs very complicated. It's true that our southern neighbours have it much better. I have family in Europe (Virginia-like weather) who've been driving the same little VW Golf since 1992. It still runs well - and there's absolutely no rust anywhere. In their case you can literally invest a bit more on a Toyota and just keep driving it for 20-30 years. I don't know if there are any official statistics but I think that car "turnover" in Canada has to be one of the highest in the world (except for the European Northern countries)? By the way, do you think that body-on-frame construction will last longer in our conditions than unibodies? I've been debating this with my friends and it seems so...

@@stanleyqc2244 I agree entirely. When I travel to other countries that dont have this rust problem, the cars last so much longer (like your family in Europe). That is why people are impressed with my 2005 Grand Prix...still going strong, and no body rust (frame rust, of course, but not bad). But it took a lot of constant work and battle to present that from happening, especially since I never rust-proofed it. People in those countries dont know the struggle lol. I dont know what it is like in Quebec, but I can tell you for sure, when you look around, most people have cars that are newer than 5 yrs old. Very few have older. They are around, but very rare. I think your theory on turnover frequency would be spot on. In my experience, I think the body on frame lasts longer. With the body on frame, as the main ladder frame starts rusting, it doesnt react directly with the rest of the body of the car, or takes a lot longer to do so, and the frames tend to be made of strong, solid steel. So mostly surface rust. With unibody, the frame tends to be softer, and once the rust gets in, it starts permeating into the rest of the car, and damages a lot. I have seen far more unibodies written off for frame failure than body on frame cars. On the flipside to that, I think a lot of manufacturers have done a lot more with undercoating or protecting the frames than was done in the late 00s, early 2010s, so I am seeing less and less of this being an issue. Some unibody cars I have worked on, some 5 or 6 yrs old, and other than suspension components, very little rust. So while I think body on frame WAS better at handling rust, I think this is changing in favour of unibody

Awesome news to hear that the video helped out. Unfortunately, I'm not surprised that one side gave issues. As the saying goes, 'there's always one'. Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated

Awesome, great to hear. Glad the video is helpful.

No problem at all. Thanks for the great feedback!

Thanks, I appreciate that feedback

No problem at all. Glad the video will help out!

Good luck, and glad to hear the video was helpful!

Oh I know the feeling lol. Hopefully you are not in the cold too long! Thanks again for watching, and for leaving feedback. Definitely appreciate it!

My fingers are crossed for you. Good luck!

No problem at all!

Thanks, appreciate the feedback. Torque specs are missed in so many videos...glad it helped

Thanks, much appreciated! For these models, you can't do the bearing on its own. It's a sealed assembly

Awesome, glad it all worked out and you missed the storm too. Sounds like a double win for you. Thanks again for watching and leaving feedback. Appreciate it!

thanks. appreciate it! Glad the video will help out.

Oh damn, I hate when you have to disassemble, grease, and reassemble. I don't know why it's mandatory for pretty much all cars to have bolt ons! And thanks for the great tip too! Will definitely help other viewers!

@@NexusAuto probably sealed press in bearing. Bolt in is definitely something I prefer, I even checked which car has them.

Absolutely is the best way to do it. Unfortunately, being in a heavy rust belt area, the owner did not want to risk damage to bolts or suspension components. They were rusted and seized pretty well and would have likely come loose with penetrating fluid or heat, but owner did not want to risk it. Sometimes you have to work with what you have LOL. But thanks for mentioning it, as this will be helpful for other viewers for sure

@@NexusAuto I just used some penetrating oil (liquid wrench) then hit them with a long breaker bar and they came off nicely. I didn’t even have to fight with them. The lower right bolt on the wheel bearing was seized in there good. It would have been a real struggle getting it out without the easy access from disconnecting the strut.

@@snapper7752 I did it without disconnecting the strut or removing the shaft. Wasn't so bad. When it's your own car, you can take those risks. When it's someone else, and they don't want to risk bolts/struts/links/cv shafts, then that's a different story. It may go right 9 times out of 10...but it's the 1 time you have to watch out for. Trust me, I've seen it happen

Thanks, much appreciated

No problem at all!

Thanks, much appreciated. Unfortunately, I no longer have access to this vehicle, so I won't be able to make a video on the Speedometer

All great tips and information. This car was quite rusty, but did not have much issues with loosening the bolts. If I had encountered it, it would have been mentioned. I also had 0 issues with the lower ball joint and cotter pin. But it is issues you encountered, so it is definitely issues others can come across as well. Hopefully your info will help someone out if they do encounter it

That happened the first time I had to change one. This time around, different problems (or my memory is just going very early) ...went looking for videos to analyze. When you're trying to install the new hub into the knuckle, what's the process for pressing that shaft into the bearing? 1) do you lube the shaft? If so, what with No matter what I am currently trying, when I get the hub bolts torqued down, my shaft is not far enough through the bearing for the boot to mate up with the back of the knuckle and I definitely don't have the splines fully mated, but the shaft is locked tight. I stopped for the night to think it over and research because I am not wanting to cause unnecessary damage.

...went back out and reinstalled the old bearing. It slips right onto the shaft. I'm a touch worried that RockAuto sent me the wrong bearing, but everything about it is so close that I'm assuming for the moment that I'm just doing something wrong (Iljin 51750-3J000 box, ILJIN IJ113013 KOREA QEKA laser etched into hub face

@@kalan4787 Hmmm, that's an interesting one. It could be that the splines on the wheel bearing may have not been machined fully or have a burr on it or something? Some sort of obstruction inside the new bearing itself? The part number is correct for an OEM Hyundai part. I have seen parts, even OEM ones, be lemons. So that is possible too. But the part number seems to be correct. Maybe have a look inside bearing and see if something can obstruct the CV shaft from going in all the way through.

@@kalan4787 Also, if having trouble, there is nothing wrong with putting a little bit of grease or other lubricant on the splines when putting the shaft into the wheel bearing. It does help.

No problem at all, and good luck on the job. What year is the Tiburon? If I recall, all front Tiburon bearings are not a hub and bearing, so a separate bearing to grease and assemble. The rears were hub and bearing. If I have the year, I can double check to be sure.

Haha I always love that line! Thanks for the great comment!

Is yours pre 2007? I was under the impression that the Santa Fe's since 2007 had a sealed hub and bearing assembly.

Hopefully it will fix your issue. I can tell you that this did fix the noise on this vehicle. Very similar to what you described (I guess you can call it the 'standard' bearing noise). The owner of this vehicle had it for about 3 more years before selling it, and never had an issue again. I hope it's the same for you

Thanks, appreciate it

Sounds like a good reason to watch the video. At least you will know what your mechanic has to do and make sure it is done right and you are charged correctly. Thanks for watching!

Thanks again! How did the job go? Also, 150 torque will get you guy for now, but you can end up with premature wear on the bearing...30 ft'lbs goes a long way. Even if you have to rent one (some parts stores rent them) or borrow one, try and get it to full torque spec.

Thanks... appreciate it. Hope the video helps!

No problem at all

To be honest, I don't directly recall the brand. I am fairly certain it was either Durago or Centric...almost positive it was Centric

Thanks, I appreciate the great feedback. The other people who say the bearing is separate are absolutely correct. It is a different process to change the bearing, and unfortunately, I don't have a video detailing the process. I did search out some videos for you, and could not find one I would be 100% confident in recommending. However, I did find 2 that are sorta helpful. One is on the Santa Fe itself. The creator does show each step correctly, but does not actually show any work. It would be a bit of a helpful video to lay out the specific steps. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qrZhgJp4r5eyqp8.html I also found a video where the creator did layout the steps fairly clearly, but it is for a 2013 Elantra. The creator also changes some studs, something you can skip over if it is not needed, but the bearing work is fairly spot on as well. While there are differences for sure (bolt size, torque specs, etc), the principles are similar kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bbJ1kqaCsNywpXk.html It is not the greatest, but if you combine the two videos, you can get a rough idea on the work involved. Hope this helps.

@@NexusAuto Thank you! I appreciate your suggestions, I wouldn't have had any luck at all trying to find 2 videos to "combine" on my own. Keeep up the good work!

@@jacksprat4052 no problem. I know it's not the most ideal solution, but it was the best I could come up with! Thanks for the great feedback...appreciated!

I didn't bother for this car, but it would not hurt. The 4 bearing bolts could use some, but I would not put any on the brake fasteners. I would not put any on the center bolt either.

That's fantastic news. Glad to hear you got it done, and saved some money! Thanks for the great feedback!

Very true! I should have done that for sure. Thanks for the great tip!

Hmmm. Ok, so based on what you're describing, that's very suspect. The fact that drivetrain work was recently done and you have a noise more like a car not shifting is a big red flag. I'm not sure how handy you are, but I'll tell you what I would do. First, I would raise the front end up and support it with jacks (you know, safety first lol). Then I would put my hands on the wheel at 12 and 6, and give it a firm shake back and forth, and see if there is any side to side movement (play). Then do the same at 3 and 6. If you got movement at both points, there's a good chance the bearing is done (even if the noise is from the drivetrain...could have both issues). Next, you want to spin the wheel. You may have to turn the car to on (but not started) and put it into neutral. Make sure the rear wheel is chocked with a brick or chock, if you have one. Listen for any noise as you spin the wheel. If it is indeed the drivetrain, you may even hear it when spinning the wheels, but then you'll hear it from more central to the vehicle. Last, and only if you have the right tools and feel completely comfortable with this, I would raise all 4 wheels up and have it supported on 4 stands. I would turn the car on and put it in drive. While all 4 wheels are turning (can't remember if the rear will turn since I don't remember if the Sante fe is full time awd) Listen for any noises. You may even have someone gently press the accelerator and listen for any noises coming from the anywhere. Something tells me this would have to do with the drivetrain (mostly likely with the transfer case), but that's just a guess based on what you wrote here. It could be anything. Either way, I hope you find the issue and it's not a big or expensive repair. Hope this helps out.

Wow. Dude that was VERY helpful. You should be doing these videos all the time. You have a great way of explaining things that the lay person. Like me can understand. Thank you !! I think I’ll start by taking it back to where she had the repair 3 weeks ago and demand that they drive it and co firm it’s not part of what they did. These guys are WAY too expensive and I’m tired of them ripping her and I off. And have a feeling they will charge her a $180 diagnostic fee again and wouldn’t trust them to tell us if it was part of their repair. I’m sure they’d say it was something else and charge her a fortune. BUT, I think they could (should) at least be able to tell me whether they confirm that noise isn’t from their repair. Sadly, we don’t have many places around here that aren’t totally backed up and can get her right in. Thank you again. Make more videos !!!!!

@jayduplessie that's a great idea! I also agree, even if it was their error, very few shops ever own those errors. But it is worth a shot and if it's something they did, they can't claim later on that you never notified them of the error. Maybe you'll get lucky and the shop will admit it, should it be something on their end. Hopefully you get a great (and cheap) result! Thanks for the great feedback too, happy to help out!

I can definitely answer these for you. 1> It all depends on how bad the damage is, and I normally assess before taking action. Also, I know some may not have access to the tools I have, so work with what you have for sure. But typically, I look at the following order 1. Lubricate beforehand. Sometimes there is a lot of grime on there, and the metal has become soft. Spraying everything off with lubricant can help loosen the bolt up and clear off most of the build up. 2. I try to hammer on a socket that is one size bigger on to the bolt head. 3. I would try a tool that is made to grab on to stripped heads (something like this www.amazon.com/Maximum-Impact-Bolt-Remover-pieces/dp/B01JDNIYPW?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1) 4. I get my torch out and heat it up and try the socket again. 5. And worse case scenario, I will drill it out completely). 2>You can definitely do this one side at a time. If you have any other questions, definitely let me know. I will try and answer as best as I can.

Thanks, appreciate that feedback! For the bearing itself, it is almost entirely the same. The biggest difference will come from the rear brakes. I believe the caliper bolts are different sizes (don't quote me though) but you also have to deal with the ebrake mechanism as well. Once you get the entire braking system off, then more or less, the process is the same, I believe.

@@NexusAuto Terrific!... .Thank you!

True. It's why I mentioned using the nut on the threads before hammering in the video. It is very much worth it to do. And can save a lot of headaches later.

Completely agree. I had one and it was damaged years ago and I never replaced it....hadn't needed it in a while. Then this car came in and I forgot I didn't have the puller anymore. Too late for me to get one, so just worked with it. This does have the hidden benefit of showing those who do not have the puller on how to get things done. But regardless, a proper puller would be much easier.

@@NexusAuto I hear ya😉😉at least get a block of wood or something on there so you don't damage that end or the nut though..That could turn into a real nightmare if that cv shaft is damaged by somone who doesnt know....Not a chance I'd be slamming on that nut, that's why it was metal bound when you were threading it on and only got less than a turn before it locked and had to be foced on....

@@stevemey3722 Absolutely. This was pointed out a few times to me (no worries at all lol). I don't know why I did that in the video. I have done that in the past with the castle nut on, as I had done later in the video, but not sure why I decided to hit the shaft. It wasn't hard hits, but still, I don't want to encourage viewers to do that, and it was an amateurish mistake. But thanks for posting...appreciate it. For other viewers, they will see these comments, and you have some great tips with the puller and block of wood.

Are you comparing a 2011 2.4 to a 2011 V6? If so, then yep, the 2.4 L and the V6 have the same bearings front-front and rear-rear.

I agree. I prefer these without a doubt. i hate the pressed in ones.

Nexus Auto absolutey. Just makes it harder for me do to my own work, thus making it more expensive. Ridiculous

No bother at all. I have not experienced that for myself, but I have some ideas in my head. The main idea seems that the car does not detect it is in park, and therefore, not allowing the car to crank. My starting point on that is the Neutral Safety Switch, as this is what controls the starting process of the car when it is in park. There can be other causes, but from what you are describing, this would be the most common thing to check first.

Hello. I wish I showed a better shot, but you can see it at 1:10. About a little more than half way down the engine, just about parallel to the driveshafts, there is a subframe that runs there. It's just past the oil pan, if I remember. I lifted there.

Hi, and thanks for watching. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. That ring is important, and it needs to be there. If you check at 20:14, you can see the Ring is pushed back in around the CV shaft(it's the shiny silver ring in the middle). As unfortunately as it is, you would need to uninstall everything and reinstall with that ring. That ring provides both a seal between the knuckle and the wheel bearing, and as a mounting point for the bearing. Without it, the bearing or CV shaft can fail earlier than they would normally. The car will still drive, but it can fail at any time. Worth it to go back and reinstall it

@@NexusAuto Thank you very much! I will go back to reinstall it ASAP.

@@qipandeng6707 No problem at all. It's awesome you spotted it and inquired. I personally know many other professional mechanics who would have just left it, which is a big deal. Glad to hear you will get it reinstalled!

Hi Mike. I assume you're doing this all at once? If so, you would not need to drop the ball joint to get this done. If it were me, I would start the removal process for the bearing, removing the wheels, removing the castle nut, reversing the castle nut back on and tapping the axle out, just like this video. Hopefully the spindle doesn't give too many issues. Where I would deviate is before loosening the 4 bearing bolts. At this point. I would completely remove the strut. Take off the lower, large bolts, then the 3 upper nuts, and take the whole assembly out. This will do 2 things...give you a lot more remove to work with, and allow the whole knuckle to fall forward, giving you a lot more room to work with. And since the CV has already been tapped out, it should just slide off the spindle. At the point, I would finish removing the bearing, then I would remove the CV axle. As the knuckle is just hanging now, it should give you more than enough room to get the CV shaft out. Install is the reverse. Install CV Shaft, 4 bearing bolts on back, install strut top nuts, then lift the knuckle and align the spindle with the CV shaft, align knuckle with strut bolts and install, then the castle nut, and reinstall brakes. I'm really condensing this down for sure, but hopefully you get the idea of what I mean. It will be a full day's work, especially since these cars are particularly prone to rusting and seizing, so make sure to set aside some time for it. If all goes well, it should only be a few hours, but you know how these things go lol. Hopefully all goes well and it's a smooth install. Good luck! 👍🏾

Thanks! These were aftermarket parts that were bought on Rockauto.com. while I can't endorse a company directly, I've had great experiences personally with Moog and Raybestos

Oh damn, that sucks. I believe you can find those on Rockauto.com. If I read correctly, I believe this is what you are looking for www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/hyundai,2011,santa+fe,3.5l+v6,1447528,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper+bracket+mounting+bolt,13055 I hope this helps.

You got it. That would be the way to get the hub out enough to change the stud. You wouldn't even need to take the hub and bearing out completely. You just need to have it come out enough to remove the stud. Make sure you hammer the bad stud out first before doing these steps, as if you hammer after you pull the bearing, it will be much harder to get the needed leverage

Depends on how far in it went, but that is not uncommon. There is always the issue if the part is not made well, cheap, or wrong part (I have seen that happen, so definitely can't discount that). But if you look around 21:50 you can see that the spindle does not go in all the way. It was not until I put on the center nut at around 26:50 that it pulled it all the way in. What you see around 21:50 is about how far it will go by hand. The rest has to be pulled in with the center nut for sure.

@@NexusAuto Thanks for the Help! Found another bearing that slid on far enough with some grease to get the castle nut started. Great video ! penetrating oil is key for getting bolts off.

@@spicer7208 awesome news! Glad you found a bearing with much better fit! Thanks for warching and the great feedback!

The rear is sort of similar, but the front is different, as the hub and bearing are separate from each other. Unfortunately, the process is different from what you see in this video.

Listened to your video. It is quite loud. You should definitely get it replaced ASAP. I have heard cars that were not that loud, that were in a dangerous state. It is probably heating up like crazy.

@@NexusAuto I am trying to do this weekend. But snow is expected

@@JKoz-sf2ei good luck. It sucks doing it in the snow for sure, but hopefully the weather holds up enough to get it done.

I may need more details as to the issue. To my knowledge, the 08 should be the same as the 2010, which is featured in this video. It should help get the job done. Since I am not there, if you can mark a time where you are having an issue and let me know some greater detail, I can try and help.. but it should be the same as in this video

Pretty much the same. The only difference is if you have front wheel or all wheel drive. If you have AWD, it's more or less the same. If you have FWD, it'll be similar, but no CV Shaft in the middle of the bearing

It is. It does have a crack like a lock washer, but there should be no gap in the crack, and it should not be offset like a lock washer. The straight-line crack is normal though

Hmm, transfer case is definitely plausible. If there is play in the gearing inside the case, it can clunk when shifting, even if there is no noise when driving. But doesn't hurt to get a 2nd opinion and even fix the TSB first. The washer in this video is there when I reinstall the new CV shaft. I cleaned it up a bit and reinstalled it. You're not the first person to mention that I should have shown that more clearly in the video lol. But it's still there. Based on the info you provided, it would make sense to get the TSB fixed first to be sure, just with the knowledge that this may not be the fix. But at least you can eliminate it from the equation

@@NexusAuto Thanks. The shop said excessive backlash in t-case but no metal in the fluid. Im going to pull the driveshaft from t-case and check that backlash myself. I found a local used t-case with 58,000 miles. I can’t get any of the TSB washers for almost 2 weeks.

@@notsofast5495 Nice! Doesn't hurt to double check the work. At least you have another one sourced too...58k miles is not bad at all. Sucks with the washers though. Do ou have them on order? Or is it just waiting for stock to come in?

@@NexusAuto I pulled driveshaft last night, raised front wheels off ground and put in neutral. Lots of backlash in tcase but no more than rear diff. I went ahead and bought rhe 58,000 mile tcase so rhey can just install it right away. There is barely any noticeable backlash in that unit.

@@notsofast5495 Ok cool! Sounds like you made the best possible choice here. Good thing you double checked as well...at least you know for sure. It is weird that the rear diff has a fair bit of backlash. I never checked the spec on it, so I am not sure. No noise on the rear diff? Finding the older TC with such low miles is a big win

Hey how's it going. Are you talking front or rear? Near as I can tell, the rear is the same, but the front actually needs you to remove and install the small bearing separately...2004 does not have a hub and bearing assembly for the front.

I know on the 04 at least the rear it is a pressed bearing.

Unfortunately, I don't have an opinion on the diesel models. We didn't the models here, so I did not work on them. I can tell you for the petrol versions, these models were still problematic (Hyundai was still working out the kinks as they improved their quality control), so I can tell you those models are not the greatest. They did improve a fair bit by time the end of that generation came around (2010, 2011) and 2012 and up saw a jump in quality. But I cannot confirm if this information translates for the diesel versions. Sorry I couldn't help further.

Check at 12:17. I did not use a socket, but a wrench. You can't fit a socket on there unless the driveshaft is completely removed first.

Damn! Well, glad to hear you made it out alright after that...can be terrifying! You really have the stuff directly impacted by hitting the ground, but there is other things I would check to be sure. Sometimes the force/shock of the impact could either bend or break things. 1. Check the whole knuckle to make sure nothing looks warped, damaged, cracked 2. Check the caliper to make it is still sitting straight with no bends. You'll know too...if you loosen it to get to the rotor, and the bolts are unusually hard to remove, you may have a bigger problem 3. Check some suspension components. Check struts, stabilizer links, control arms, tie rods, etc, to make sure they are still straight and true, and they have broken or cracked either. 4. Check the upper strut mount area under the hood. Unfortunately, I had someone with the same issue, and the strain of the brakes hitting the road at speed cracked the top strut tower. If everything checks out otherwise, then the bearing and rotor should be all you need.

@@anthonyb.4232 damn! That sounds intense...glad you're ok! Hopefully the damage to the car isn't too bad either. No one needs a big expense at this point (or any point, really). Hopefully it all works out!

@@anthonyb.4232 oh yeah, if you have an 04, then you are definitely correct...you need to disassemble the old hub, pull the old bearing, and then press in the new one, as you stated. Unfortunately, I don't have a video on that generation...I don't even have a video to use as a point of reference. I do know some places do rent them, but not everywhere. It does vary from your location and availability, but I have seen them for rent in both the United States and Canada. It's actually not terribly hard, if everything goes well. And I can't stress that enough...there is a few things that can come up, plus is it significantly messy work. Bearing grease gets everywhere lol. Not a big deal, but the sealed hub and bearings have spoiled me lol. If you can find a whole strut/knuckle/bearing assembly at a yard that is in workable condition, I say go for it. But be warned...I don't know the condition of your car, or if you live in any snow belt areas. But those Santa Fes are prone to rust and seizing, and you may be trading one problem (pressing in a bearing) with another (rusted, seized bolts). I would say to make sure to assess and verify everything can be removed with no issues. If you live in the Southern states or anywhere like that, you should be good to go.

@@anthonyb.4232 lol I hear that! With the heat in Vegas, I don't blame you at all! And since rust isn't even an issue and there is lots of models available at the yard, that is definitely your best bet! Thanks for the great feedback! Good luck with the install!

That would only be for the early 2007 and older models, where there is no hub and bearing assembly. You have to pack the bearings and assemble them separately. In late 2007 and later models, until 2012, they came as a one piece hub and bearing assembly (which is the norm these days) and are sealed and greased right out of the box. Much easier to deal with.

hmmm that is interesting. Assuming the bearings put in were new and also not defective (I have seen that happen, unfortunately, but it is rare), it sounds like there is another issue persisting. What kind of noise are you getting? Did you have the brakes checked as well?

@@NexusAuto it's making the noise as if they are bad while driving and if I sway back and forth the grinding type noise is there. As well. And the brake pads are good as well

@@daniel-ku4em that doesn't leave much else. Really, when it comes down to it, what you are describing can either be the bearings, brakes or CV Shaft. So first, once again, I am assuming the new bearings are good, no lemons, and installed correctly (to spec, especially that center nut). If you are still getting the grinding noise, and the pads and rotors are all good, I would think there could be a defective CV shaft. If you can, I would jack up the front end of the car and support on jack stands, (or all 4 wheels, if you have the jack stands for it), chock the rear wheels, and put the car in neutral. First turn the tire with the wheel on and listen for the noise. See if you can pinpoint where it is coming from. If you hear it coming closer to the engine bay, you may be looking at the CV shaft. If it is still coming from the wheels directly, see if you can pinpoint if it is the brakes or wheel bearings. For example, hot spots on the rotor can cause noise to come from the wheel, so just making sure to cover all bases. If you still cannot pinpoint it, remove the wheel, then the caliper assembly. Leave the caliper attached with a string or a hanger to an out-of-the-way component, and put the wheel back on and turn again. See if you still hear the grinding. Also check things like those brake backing plates and so on to make sure it did not accidentally get bent during the job and is now touching the rotor. I would probably start with this.

Very good questions, and I should have clarified too. So it is front wheel drive, before anything else, there is always some play before between the driveshaft and the pawl inside the transmission. If you raise one side, move the tire forward and backwards and it will move a bit. Aside from that, generally speaking, for fwd or awd cars, if one front tire is in the air and the other is on the ground, the front wheel will not spin. If, however, you jack up the whole front end and both tires are in the air, both tires spin, but in the opposite direction. So you turn the driver side wheel forward, the passenger side will spin backwards. There is some exceptions, but that is always the case. So I always make it a point to mention to loosen lugs when the wheels are down, as it then covers all applications, regardless of front wheel, rear wheel, all wheel drive applications. But this is an awesome question, and one many would not pick up on. I may include this on a future q & a video.

@@NexusAuto That is what I thought but I wanted to make sure. Thanks!

@@0019754 no problem at all!

But if you use an impact gun you don’t have to worry about any tire spinning.

From the specs I pulled up, it does look more or less the same. There may be some minor differences, but overall, it looks about the same. Just keep in mind that it may not be exact.

for the rear, it is mostly the same, except no driveshaft in the middle. Much easier to do. The front is much different, as it is not a hub and bearing assembly, but just a separate bearing. You have to take the hub off and change the bearing separately. It is a completely different process to this once you get the hub off.

If the wheel is overheating, then there is a friction problem of some sort. It can be a few things, unfortunately. I will list the ones that come to mind, and see if that gives you a starting point. Hopefully it helps. 1. Defective new bearing (I have seen this happened). There is no/low grease inside, or something internally with the bearing is not lined up, and it is causing a lot of friction - probability - Low 2. The bearing was not installed correcting. Obviously this is not meant to be offensive in any way, but there is always the small chance that the bearing was not completely tightened correctly, not sitting properly in the knuckle, or the axle bolt was overtightened. Any of these things can cause friction 3. Something in the brakes is seized...caliper piston or caliper sliders. It could be possible that the brakes are seized clamped and causing friction. did you notice the caliper piston looking off, unusual wear in the pads, caliper pins very stuff, rotors have a bluish tinge to them? This would be the most common, I think. At least, that is what immediately, comes to mind. There could be other things, but that is far less likely. Hope this helps a bit.

No, not at all. If you have a 2006 or older, I believe you do. But for 2007 and up, they are a one piece unit and nothing needs to be pressed in.

With the whole steering knuckle and everything?

@@NexusAuto i have the one that has 4 bolts that connects it to the steering knuckle . i am looking for the bearing with the housing that bolts to the steering knuckle .

@@billleitz9150 I would say to check Rockauto.com. I use them frequently, and they have not let me down as of now. You should be able to find a hub assembly for your car, depending on your model year

@@NexusAuto Thank you my friend !

Many DIYers don't have one, or have access to a place they can rent one. Showed the workaround ways. Of course, a puller is the most ideal. But check the comments...many people appreciate the options and workaround. Only reason why it's not here.

With respect, did you watch the video? I show the whole thing, including explaining how I did it crossing over, at around the 22:00 mark onwards. I even showed how to turn the wheel to do the final torque

I know. But many people do not have that, and it's a fairly pricey tool (although since this video, they have come down in price). I tried to make the video using as many common tools as possible.

Haha. Talk about twerk-torque ratios lol

Absolutely. Thank you for posting. Will help future viewers.

Threads were fine. I did reuse the same CV shaft. The owner of this vehicle still has the same CV shaft and wheel bearing to this day

Agreed. I do mention that in the video as well, and show my mistake hen trying to put the nut on to hammer it.

I agree. But I always try and make these videos with the simplest of tools. Hub pullers, speed wrench, air chisel, etc all help the job out more.

Put the castle nut on with the open end facing towards the rotor and like you said use a 2x2 or piece of hard wood and wack it with a 3lb. Hammer 😁

Hahaha this comment made my day. Maybe another time....

LOL I know I know, definitely do not do that. I did not hit hard, but still, bad idea. Just put the nut on, like I did right after.

@@NexusAuto lol just avoid to hit it even with nut, use chisel to impact hammer center hole

@@dennisfengcanada Yeah that works. Not always in Canada or a rust belt area, sometimes you need a bigger impact area. Damn rust and corrosion. But doesn't hurt to try the chisel first.

@@NexusAuto i am in Canada too, Alberta lol

@@dennisfengcanada Is that what the A B stands for? LOL. Nice to come across a fellow Canadian!

For you, maybe. But these videos are made for people of different skill levels, and cotter pins are surprisingly difficult for many people new to car repair, especially if you live in the rust belt. May not help you, but it does help others

First, I think it's hilarious that you think this is only a Canada thing. I've worked with techs in the US, Germany, and St Martin (of all places) and all use impacts like crazy. I think it's funnier when you don't need it, like in sunny Florida or St Martin, and they still use it, versus Canada and Northern US along the rust belt. Second...did you not watch the video? I only used the impact to zip the center nut on. I torqued it at the end. Literally in the video.

@@NexusAuto dont get too emotional mate, there there.

@Robert Duklus hahaha read your first post again. You're the one blowing a gasket about torque specs and impacts without actually paying attention. An comment about emotion. You're so edgey!

How to tell me you don't live in a rust belt area, without actually telling me you live in a rust belt area lol. Your method would work great on cars with with good condition cotter pins. Problem is, I used vices in my younger days only to have them literally fall apart due to rust and corrosion. If you live in a rust belt area, and maybe you do, you would have encountered this many times. So I try and approach them delicately and from the other end, as they tend to be stronger from the closed end in this state. I have literally started to straighten them out and have the open ends just fall off. Sorry I am not a champ like you 🙄

@@NexusAuto it was a joke. Sorry. Cotter pins are a bastard even new ones.

@@jasonjohnson4170 ah damn. Sometimes it's hard to tell when someone is joking online these days. I apologize if I had a harsh tone. It's all good. Cotter pins are such a giant pain. So many disintegrate while working on them.

@@NexusAuto I have two left thumbs when it comes to cotter pins and impact wrenches apparently. Was watching your video to do the job on my 07 and couldn't get the lower front bolt out as the ball joint bolt and nut were in the way. I got on to the nut with the impact and spun the outside of the nut round. Wish I had a lift. Gonna have to reroute for next weekend

@@jasonjohnson4170 Damn that sucks. A lift makes a huge difference, but hey, we make due with what we can. I hope you can get it done when you re-tackle it again.

There is 3 main signs you have a bad bearing 1. If you spin the wheel, and it makes a grinding noise, it could be the bearings 2. Put your hands at 12 and 6, and wiggle wheel. Then 3 and 9. (Like a clock). Wiggle again. If there is movement, it could be a bearing 3. Go for a drive around the block a couple of times. Stop and (carefully] touch the middle of your rim. If it's hot, you may have a bad bearing. Careful with this one...it can get hot enough to hurt you! Hope this helps