Dude teach me!

I want to hire you for a experimental rc vehicle procedure.subscribed man.we want more.

You just revolutionized the rc industry.

yes, that's also true :)

No problem, thanks for the thumbs up and sub! :)

True :)

Thanks, appreciate the feedback :)

You mean like a timelapse of the printer printing the part?

If so, I'll be including that in my next 3d printed parts video :)

@@ValRC1 yes 🙂

And we need more information about plastic, slicing and printing

​@@Artemon-yl5ze Thanks for the suggestion, I'm working on an upgraded version of these parts right now and I'm gonna include that in the video!!

Unbedingt, viel Spaß dabei! :)

Works great! I just don't recommend it for racing or speedrunning as it does make control a slight bit more imprecise because of the flex

I either download them off a website like thingiverse.com or 3d model them myself in CAD programs like Fusion 360. 3d scanners exist but are expensive and the cheaper ones don't work very accurately Also: no problem, glad you enjoyed! Consider subscribing if you want to see more like it

Thanks man! I'm actually working on an improved version on it rn :) The plastic on this one is still brittle, even now in summer - my guess is still that they messed up the plastic composition

its also brittle so it will break so they can sell more parts. They could make more durable plastic but theyd also make less money.

@@mech0p it's so weird because with wltoys it's hit or miss. I've had 2 that are pretty durable and then this one that just shatters when you look at it the wrong way. My guess is bad quality control

Yup, I've actually even got a video in the works showing how I made them stiffer in the middle and even more durable at the ends!

@@ValRC1 nicee

Yeah they are! The material is TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) and many people also use it for fpv drones, usually survives high speed impacts into hard objects with them! Oh and thanks for watching! Appreciate the comment too :)

Hmm, to be honest I think the PLA code would just break 😂 Would make sense to beef the TPU arms up a bit more so they're a little bit stiffer though, thanks for the idea

Thanks for watching! You should definitely give 3d printing a try, it's pretty cool! Yeah I'm thinking about trying some carbon fiber infused nylon filament, only issue with that is it's pretty expensive..

@@ValRC1 Expensive and it absorbs tons of humidity out of the air and needs to be kept very dry. Nothing worse than spending $100 on a roll of filament only to have it print poorly due to moisture!

@@GeddyRC true, the moisture thing is an issue with nylon as well. Especially since the basement I print in frequently has humidity levels over 70%

Haven't had that issue yet. If it does happen I will, thanks!

Not gonna have any issues, the way you dive, anyway lol. Send it with these arms, then talk.@@ValRC1

Damn, how did you manage to do that?

Hmm yeah, it could work, but i think TPU is a little to soft for that. I might try it with some Carbon TPU or Carbon Nylon though! Thanks for watching and for the feedback, appreciate it :)

Actually, in summer with the stock brushed system it was fine. Once I upgraded to brushless though (100kph on 3s..) I did notice it a little bit. I now made new arms, still out of TPU just a little beefier, which made them stiff enough to be used with brushless as well :) video is coming somewhat soon

​@@ValRC1I printed one with pla at 80% infill and so far it hasn't broken. I crashed it hard enough that I broke the diff case instead of the 3d printed part. I'll have to see how well the 3d printed diff case holds up.

@@joacimlopez9735 oh that's crazy, means the wltoys parts are sometimes weaker than pla!! What a shame really

lol thank you

I used my Prusa I3 MK2.5S, but you could use any 3d printer that's able to print out 95A TPU well :)

@@ValRC1 lol, I ran into troubles with a printer I won’t mention here, but now happily printing away. Thank you again, this is such a good idea

@@peterwatkins671 nice, glad you got it running by now

It's been pretty durable for me, just make sure you secure it with all 4 screws and it should last a while. I don't have an official shop or anything yet but if you're comfortable with it I could sell you one privately.

​@@ValRC1 I don't mind as long as it's a good price. Sorry for the late reply.

@@andrealves1250 all good, I could sell you one for $5 + shipping. where are you located btw? So i can look up the shipping costs there

Damn, didn't think of a 3d pen but I'm guessing 3d printed parts are stronger due to being solid?

@@ValRC1 using a 3d pen the parts are nearly 100% filled. For a swing arm like you did I would ink out the part on paper and just trace it with the pen until I had enough layers to reach thickness. There are a lot of 3d pen sculpting videos on KZfaq that show you how. For me, I can't justify buying a printer if I can't model my own stuff and I don't have the motivation or time to learn blender.

All the parts where it makes sense for them to be flexible :) I can take a part off a car, create a 3d model of it in fusion 360 and print it out!

Thanks for the suggestion! I printed these with 100% Infill, so I guess adding more perimeters wouldn't make a difference? I bet a harder shore TPU would work great though

@@ValRC1 it will make a difference, because you have to understand how the layers are put over each other. You can experiment this by printing a simple rectangular piece with PLA, lets say a 10mm wide by 50mm long, And 3mm thick. Print the first one with only 2 perimeters and a second one with 5 and try to bend them and feel the difference. Anyway, if you use the car for bashing it won’t make much of a difference but it’s something useful to know for future projects, sometimes you can also get sufficient strength with this method without using 100% infill and save some plastic.

@@ripmax333 oh okay, well guess I learned something new today! Thanks, will definitely make use of it for future projects 👍

I was using 95A here, have since tried some 58D which works even better for stuff like this

Awesome, glad I could help! I actually have a video of an upgraded version of them coming up :)

Which part(s) did you break? Not all are good to be printed out in TPU filament, but some might work well

It's the front and rear control arms

The arms are 100% infill, I'm not sure how much infill the bumper has but as you can see it doesn't have and top or bottom layers in the front part..I'll check real quick

so the bumper has 100% infill in the back where it mounts to the car and 15% infill in the front with no top or bottom layers, to absorb and dampen impacts :) Btw I'm thinking about doing a video with a few 3d printed mods/upgrades for these wltoys cars, do you think you'd be interested in that?

@@ValRC1 Thanks for your answer. 3d printed mods for wltoys are always interesting. 😉

@@jochenweisel8612 No problem, thank you lol

I used Sainsmart Brand Shore 95A TPU for these arms! Thanks for watching btw :)

www.thingiverse.com/thing:5335779 it already exists on thingiverse :)

Lol yeah my camera do be broken lol - thanks for watching man!

Nah not stupid, I used Sainsmart TPU Filament, flexible super tough stuff, but can be a bit finicky to get printing on some printers, especially those with a Bowden extruder. There are different non-brittle options that are a bit stiffer as well, like for example Nylon or PP. The most typical and also most brittle Plastic used for 3d printing today is PLA.

@@ValRC1 cheers bud very helpful.....👍👌😁

@@EZ-D-FIANT np!

Maybe this can be true in some cases, but I actually noticed with these super flexible ones that the handling got slightly worse once I switched to brushless power. I made some new and improved arms to fix that, new video is out on my channel already!

It's 95A Sainsmart TPU :) thanks for watching!

Thanks@@ValRC1

Yup, works very well

Yeah we'll see, probably not very soon but maybe sometime, if there is enough interest for them!

Where are you located btw?

@@ValRC1 Singapore!

@@shivasaravanan3032 oh dang, i was thinking I could just send you a pair before doing a shop or anything but I think shipping from Austria to Singapore would be pretty expensive...

@@ValRC1 it's no problems I can cover the cost

Oh, that sucks. Maybe you could trim and fit a metal plate or something to stiffen the chassis up a little?

And which song do you mean? (At what minute in the video, there are multiple)

@@ValRC1 I've had to replace it 4 times

​@@ValRC1at 1:08

Thanks man, yeah I've been thinking about doing my own rc car upgrade onlineshop. Maybe I'll get around to it sometime soon!

Where are you located btw?

Oh sorry, I forgot about the link! I added it to the description now so you can print it out as well :) Maybe if I have time for it at some point I'll 3d print a whole car ;) Thanks for watching, by the way!

Not sure how I would do that tbh - the STL of the bumper is solid and then, with some modifiers and infill trickery i made it the way it is in prusaslicer

Thanks for watching!

After watching I want to print this for my wltoys 144001

@@kirilllas7247 well why not print it then? :)

Yep, btw I already uploaded a video on an updated version of these!

It's a wltoys 124019! Thanks for watching :)

It seems to have worked pretty well and I didn't notice too many suspension or handling differences. That being said, the suspension on this car isn't very good to start with so there's that. I'm currently testing a new version of these arms that are beefier and stiffer, btw!

Sure, I just used the default Sainsmart TPU Profile in Prusaslicer and reduced all the speeds to 15mm/s. Thanks for watching!

@@ValRC1 tyvm for the fast reply!

@@FeraAlfian-vu1wy no problem, glad i could help

Because someone designed it and uploaded it there

It's an Original Prusa I3 MK2.5S, using the SainSmart TPU preset in Prusaslicer and with speeds reduced to 20mm/s, Material is 95A TPU

In this video I was using the stock brushed motor

I used Sainsmart 95A shore hardness black TPU!

@@ValRC1 Thank you so much... very very very interesting test.

@@josemariaferriazorin9930 no problem, feel free to subscribe if you want to see more videos like this one!

I have an Original Prusa I3 MK2.5S, but you could do this with any printer that can print TPU material

It's made of 95A TPU

@@ValRC1 PETG would probaly also work pretty good i guess. atleast allot better than plain pla probaly

@@DiyNuke honestly, Petg isn't as impact resistant as most people say. TPU is waay more durable if it doesn't matter that the part is flexible. A more impact resistant alternative to PETG is PCTG, or if you have a good printer and an enclosure Polycarbonate (probably the most durable stiff material)

Sainsmart 95A TPU, habe ich schon viel verwendet und ist echt super 👍 was für solche Sachen auch noch interessant wäre, ist das Carbon-TPU von Extrudr, da es etwas steifer ist, aber vielleicht trotzdem so widerstandsfähig wie normales TPU ist? Müsste man aber ausprobieren

@@ValRC1 Tja, Extrudr ist ja auch aus deiner Heimat. Machen sehr gute Filamente. Grüße aus Deutschland.

@@lutsifer5847 einer der Standorte ist tatsächlich sogar bei mir um die Ecke im Industriegebiet des Ortes, wusste ich bis vor kurzem gar nicht

@@ValRC1 Ist auch von mir ca. 90 Km weit weg. Also auch quasi um die Ecke.

@@lutsifer5847 nice!

I used Sainsmart 95A TPU material! Thanks for watching :)

@@ValRC1 thank you 🙏

Which part exactly are you talking about?

Maybe you could send a link if you don't know what it's called?

WLtoys 124017 V2 C-seat right in manual, type C block component (1253)

@@wyattdaily6520 www.thingiverse.com/thing:4016832 i think this is that part :)

@@ValRC1 that part looks a bit off but thank you for looking for me (my car basically has the same parts as the car in this video but mine is brushless)

I used Sainsmart 95A TPU filament :)

It's a wltoys 124019 - they make a few pretty similar ones

@@ValRC1 ok what I have is a WLtoys A959-A and Im upgradeing it to A959-B which is more powerful. I got the car for free but I have already probably put more in to it than its worth

I used Sainsmart 95A TPU :) thanks for watching!

more flexible like classic PLA no ?@@ValRC1

@@xavierledieu3406 yes, it's a lot more flexible than pla. Pla is very hard and brittle

I don't have the money to replace half the car lol, maybe in a later vid

Sainsmart 95A TPU!

95A TPU!

@@ValRC1 thank you,would this be better than nylon for thinner type bumpers for a trx4?

@@bud1lite Nylon would probably optimal since TPU might be a little bit too flexible I'd think

yes

The point is to take the bad stock part that breaks easily and improve it so it can't be broken anymore

Not sure what exactly you meant, but the car in the video is a "Wltoys 124019". Does that answer your question or did you mean something else?

@@ValRC1 no sir, thank you, i confused the wltoys with willpower, thats what i meant. Bang for buck, theyre rippers.

@@dondagy9109 np, yeah they're great for the price, I have a 144001 I converted to brushless and this 124019 that's still on brushed :)

@@ValRC1 brushless is the way to go i think.

@@dondagy9109 yeah definitely. What happened to mine was that the motor broke, so instead of getting a replacement I just threw in an old brushless combo I had :)

That's a great idea but honestly, I think it would make more sense to make the arms out of this flexible plastic and then the c hubs and stuff from Aluminium. The bulkheads (a major weakpoint of these cars IMO) also can't be from a really flexible material like this, as that would make the screws rip out even more easily and maybe even make the gears not mesh correctly under load due to the flexibility

@@ValRC1 That is a good point . The a arms and a bumper like the lc racing one with the foam in it but without the foam would be hot sellers .

Hi what would be the best cheap printer to get for making parts like this thanks. Wont be long and you will be up to 200 subs way to go.

Not sure about the current 3d printer market as I've had this one for like 7 years and am happy with it, but you should look for one that can print TPU Filament well (Filament used in this video is Sainsmart Blue 95A TPU)

@@ValRC1 Thanks looking at a ender 3 pro but not sure

Nah they're fine, the wltoys CVDs are usually very weak anyways but I didn't notice any changes with that once I put these on. I did make a stiffer version in the meantime though

Sure, it's Sainsmart 95A TPU amzn.eu/d/2wRNFkJ This in blue, or whichever color you prefer. Thanks for watching btw!

@@ValRC1 Thank you for making cool RC video.

@@m0neez np, more are coming!

Probably because it's cheaper this way, making them out of cheap hard, super brittle plastic

Not sure if there's a 3d file for the a959? I'd need that to print them

Iirc I downloaded that one from thingiverse

@@ValRC1 how much the part you've printed weight?

The flex is what makes it so durable, but for Version 2 i could fill in all the gaps to make it stiffer and more rigid

@@ValRC1 Yes I completely understand, but flex in suspension other than from the shock is not good. If you are not racing and you are just bashing you came up with a very good way to have fun and not break arms ✌🏼😎👍🏻

@@mikesrcgarage Yeah that's true. I'm only a basher atm, but i think some type of carbon fiber infused nylon filament could work for racing. That's expensive and difficult to store tho. (absorbs moisture easily)

@@ValRC1 Yes that is the key and very expensive. On a very light car the flex is not a real issue and as long as you're having fun that's all that matters. My 1/5 scale breaks arms just by looking at it! Lol! Keep up the good work and the WLtoys you were running looked like it ran great with those arms! ✌️😉

@@mikesrcgarage thanks man, appreciate it :) Are your 1/5th scale arms very stiff? Or from nylon like typical on 1/8th scales?

Thank you! Unfortunately it's broken and what you see in the vid are glass particles on the lens under the cover which can't be taken off :/

I'm glad you like it! Greetings from Austria :)

True

I'm pretty sure they're still plastic, but you really don't want aluminum for these specific parts anyways. That would just transfer the impact force further into the car, breaking parts that are harder to replace. You want these to either break or absorb the impact.

Yep, just like Val said, its almost like a real car with crumple zones Yet im running upper and lower aluminum arms on my udr😄

@@mattiazanni3086 how's that working out for you?

@@ValRC1 i mean i never broken the stock plastic ones except for one of the upper ones but i heard people say they are a weakpoint so i got aluminum ones, and they have been good

@@mattiazanni3086 okay, nice!

Nope, working on it lol I really appreciate comments like this so thank you, made me smile :)

I'm working on a new updated one that's stiffer :)

@@ValRC1 that would be cool!!! I'm keeping look out for new videos from you

@@antonhoffart37 I'm glad you like the idea lol, might be a while though cause this type of video takes some time to make :)

It's TPU, I used 95A but the harder the better (98A or 58D would be great)