It was truly surreal, as the designer, to see everything come together for you. I'm really glad that you were able to make it work despite the challenges along the way. Thank you for picking this up and documenting your journey.

Great project but I’ve got a few things to add. Arduinos on their own are not good at driving servos, especially not a large number of them, the servo library sends the signal using software which means that the timing can be off due to interrupts or just the arduino being busy with other code, this can create jitter in the servos. Using a servo driver board or an MCU with hardware timers is better. With a servo driver board like the PCA9685 you can drive 16 servos with hardware timers and you can change the address of the boards to use multiple boards, you would only need two boards to drive all the servos. You shouldn’t need that much power for all the servos, you could reduce power use by switching the servos off when they aren’t needed, they stay in position when switched off but can be easily moved, since your clock segments won’t have any force on them they shouldn’t move, hence you can switch all the servos off after they are in position and only switch on the ones you need to move. Which should save a lot of power. Then to reduce peak power you could set it to only change one digit at a time so fewer servos are moving at once, this would change the effect though to more of a rolling effect rather than a sharp movement so is more of a stylistic choice. Also with the servo driver boards I mentioned you can stagger the signals, this is useful because the servos draw the most current when just starting moving so if you can offset the start point of the signals (just within the servo signal period, so the maximum offset would be 20 ms) then you can reduce the peak current draw too. As for the servo noise, this mechanism would maybe be more suited to solenoids, which move straight in and out and for cheap ones you don’t control the position but the endpoints should be the same. Solenoids can be loud but they can also be very quiet, they have no noisy gears and with some damping at the ends they should be quiet. Solenoids are also easy to drive, you can gets ones with spring return but I wouldn’t recommend those for your project as they need to stay powered to keep it out but are simpler to drive. Instead you could use solenoids without a spring and then just a H-bridge to extend or retract the solenoid, since they aren’t spring return then after extended or retracted they would stay in position.

Probably way too expensive, but I’d love to see what this looks like made out of metal with the segments cut out using wire EDM so that when they’re retracted they seamlessly blend into the flat surface.

Nice build! One thing I learned making my own kinetic sculptures is that the servos will start to burn out within a week if they’re on all the time. I’d recommend a relay that turns them all off when they’re not moving to reduce the duty cycle and extend their life.

Ideas for version 2: Use a magnetic approach like flip dot displays this should be almost silent, for this a perfect fit would be good with polished surfaces so it does not get stuck when sliding.

I would seriously consider buying a finished product version of this. It would be so cool with a light above it to accentuate the shadows. A metal or wood version could be awesome too, but there is something mysterious about it being white and causing more reliance on the shadows.

Very nice! I would suggest a stop to each segment, so it naturally ends flush when retracted (or extended). This should also work well with the electromagnet concept others have mentioned. Also in reference to power: the servos move for one second of each minutes. So it may be possible to use a capacitor to provide the extra power required during that short window. You would need some sort of current limiting on the charge circuit (which may be as simple as a resistor).

Amazing project! Keep up the awesome work and incredible video documenting!

Amazing project! Your perseverance and tenacity paid off. It's amazing.

I love the look and that you polished it. I've seen clocks on KZfaq that were based on mechanical counters, only requiring a single motor. They had a different look of course, but I am sure that one could tweak this design with this knowledge to drastically reduce the amount of servos needed, which would drastically decrease the cost of the whole project. Edit: I just looked it up, how those single servo clocks work and thought about how to adapt it to this clock. Every segment of a clock has a certain pattern it repeats to be shown or not shown. Each segment would need its unique cog that has teeth corresponding to this pattern. The cog needs to translate its movement to retracting the segment or not. Now when we run a cog with a servo which connects to each segment cog, we can run our clock with only one servo. Or two if we want to give reduce the complexity by building the cogs per segment.

Great for the bedroom! with these calming motor noises every minute you will have a perfect sleep.

Thumbs up for liking to organize cables. I'm right there with you. Feels so good when it's done and all the cables are neat and tidy.

Great build! Will be waiting for your documentation. This is one of my favorite 3D printing types, clocks. Steve Peterson has quite a few

That's an awesome looking clock! Keep it up dude :)

I have a habit of collecting power supplies. I pull them out of anything that's being junked and I put them to use in other projects. Out of a Da Vinci 1.0 3D printer (purchased for $25) I pulled many good parts but the power supply is awesome. +3.3v 12a, +5v 14a, +12v 14a, -12v 0.3a, +5v 2a. One of these would work for this clock. Use the 5v2a for the Arduino, use the 12v 15a for the servos. You also have the 3.3 for LED lighting. The supply has the standard 3 prong power cord socket and a power switch on it. 200 watt max on this supply. Look around for a cheap Da Vinci printer.

Awesome job! You got me motivated to do a similar build.

Very cool build! Great explanation. Thanks for sharing :)

well the Completeness of this project is wonderful. It totally looks like a product in boutique store.

That thing really is beautiful; I like the white on white aesthetic, and the mechanism of movement. I find the movement much more appealing than other clocks where the segements are flat and rotate 90 degrees away from view. No wonder you had issues along the way; that looks like a MONSTER of a project.

It was a pleasure to watch, please don't stop making them :)

Good job on tapping the back of the spatula to release the 3d print, so, so many people don't know this trick and stab the print like a maniac.

Excellent work, and great video. Im excited to see what you have in store! Subbed!

Great video, this looks like a really fun project. Thank you for making the video

This is such a cool concept. Being a watch enthusiast (I know this is a clock, but still), and an engineer, combining both into an electronics project is just awesome. As some additions and improvements, the way this was done is a bit chaotic. Normally, a regular clock with 7 segment displays would just have a binary to 7 segment converter circuit, or since Arduino was used, just make the conversion in software and power the corresponding segment via a multiplexing circuit. Hence, with just some tweaks, a regular 7 segment display clock can be used and the multiplexing routine can carry the PWM signal to activate the corresponding servos. Of course, instead of multiplexing hella fast as with a normal display, it would be extremely slow but in order to move one segment at a time and using a servo driver instead of the Arduino itself. That way, a bunch of the wiring can be ditched and power consumption would also be lower. Regarding noise, there's really not much that can be done, except not using servos or isolating the back of the clock really well to damp the noise a bit. In the end, this definitely is a really cool way of displaying time.

Great build, it looks awesome. I would say 2 things to improve this build: you can use one power supply that has vurrent for the entire project by having a common earth between everything and using a step down/buck converter for lower voltage parts (like an LM2596). And grab yourself a flexible bed for your printer - they're very cheap and will save you damaging the bes uaing a hammer and chisel. Flexible PEI plates are awesome.

Now using this as a base for a large Pin Art board, having the time get pushed out in the pins. Or if you want to take it to a more surreal/paranormal look a very think sheet of latex over it so the numbers are pushed out of a seamless block

This is really cool, I actually thought about creating something similar but also light up the segments so you can see it in the dark.

You are a clever man. Good job.

Just brilliant. Thanks for sharing!

So cool! Enjoyed watching your creativity. Seeing you develop your various interests over the last decade or so is inspiring. I still miss the plant stand that you built for me years ago (it was stolen with all my stuff when I moved up here.). Keep up the cool projects. I look forward to following along.

Fantastic idea and realisation!

I wish I were patient enough to succeed such a project. Awesome job..! Thanks for sharing.

This is awesome!!!! You could maybe also try to use solenoids instead of servos. Maybe it wont be as cool as with the slow motion of the sevos and maybe more loud

This is a great looking clock, love the smooth transition. I think better servos are worth it

It is easy. Only switch power to the servos when you want to move them. And only switch on the servos you need to move. If you want them more quiet, reduce the supply voltage, it is possible in a range depending on the servo.

Great build, presentation and video edit! 😊

Its a really neat project! For not needing a large power supply, you could try to use these tiny 0-24v DC-DC stepdowns, that has VIN-Vout-GND and an enable pin (they are on ali and is 10x20mm ish). with these you could just turn off the servoes when not running. Then you'd ofcourse need way more outputs, which could be handled using a multiplexer of sorts

Great work, thank you for sharing you advise and challenges with us.

For the servo sound issue: check pwm pulse separation and stability and also psu voltage and resistance

Awesome video. I have to make this. Thanks for sharing.

already a hit bro 🔥👍🏻 what a great project 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

It looks great, thanks for the inspiration!

I think it would look amazing with a piece of thin taut fabric stretched over it, which could really sell the morphing effect, great build!

This is awesome! Thanks for sharing. I would strongly recommend using a spring type of mechanism and an offset cam; similar to those used in naturally aspirated engines. I'm just coming across this and prematurely not certain how rhat design would work out, however, I do know watches use gears as well. Thank you again!

For the power supply - think about maybe using a USB C PD drop-in board, along with DC to DC power supplies internally to convert voltages.

This is the content that I miss on KZfaq! Thx!

if you add a slight outwards taper to the segment pieces you can sand them flat together with the face and the clock will be seamless

Awesome stuff bro! Can’t wait to see what is next!

Regarding power, maybe you can use a power supply such as the MeanWell LRS-50-5 as an example. And then use buck converters or boost converters if necessary to adjust the voltage level as needed.

Very nice project! I like your attempts to modify it your own.

Wow this is this most aesthetic clock I’ve ever seen 😍 my husband loves 3D printing and having functional projects. He’s been asking me what I want him to make - sending him this 😍🎉 also any tips on wire management I would greatly appreciate 🙏 looking forward to more content from you!

To reduce cost & noise, could use 3 motors in total by creating a moving x & y frame & a z axis actuator to push each segment out. Combined with small springs & some permanent magents to keep flush alignment.

Dark stain timber front (and case) and pop a couple of white leds running low in the enclosure so when the segments expand there's a glow around them, should make night time viewing pretty attractive

it looks cool. i think you did a great job. Congratulations

There are so many ways to make a 7-segment display. This is a very creative and attractive way 👍 PS - I still have my old clock from the 1970s. This has large red LED digits about 1 inch high. The clock itself is actually a module with the 4 digit LED display and the chip covered in black epoxy, all mounted on a fiberglass circuit board. There are connections for 5Vdc and push-buttons to set the time. Cheers from Canada :-)

Would be interesting to try reducing servo count by using multiple segments per servo and mechanical cams

Great Project Lukas!! New to your channel and I loved it

Wow! It looks nice and clean! I terrified about a brunch of servos… Thinking about solenoid with magnets in frame and segment that forms bistable structure…

Looks great. This got me the idea to use electro magnets instead of servos. The segments would be pushed out by a spring and pulled back in if the magnet turns on.

I saw the original design for this a while back but it was unpowered, so seeing a MCU and motors on this is a serious step forward. The issues you've faced here have really got me thinking, I love the form of the face, and that movement when the digits change is beautiful, so I'd like to keep that, but for me it needs a out/in state for each segment, so I'm going to think about how to create a gradual kinetic movement (sprung, like an old cassete tape opening maybe?) with the actuator being a electromagnet powered to either positive or negative and the digit holding a neodymium magnet in each segment (sprung, like an old cassete tape opening maybe?) with the actuator being a electromagnet powered to either positive or negative and the digit holding a neodymium magnet. Something else I'd want to do is reduce the depth to as minimal as possible, which if the soft open/close mech was thin and the electro magnets don't need much force means the clock could be wall mounted. Final thought, for me the digit movement would be a wash from right to left on each of the segments, that way the required power would be issued at a max of three segments at any one time, that would keep the amperage down.

Amazing project!

Why did you use servos instead of solenoids? You wouldn't have to make the gear transformations, and you could probably get it quieter.

This might be my favorite thing I've ever seen 3D printed! I would love to do one of my own

Wow! I was working on something like this 5 years ago but school unfortunately got in the way and I never finished it. I probably still have all the servos and code somewhere. Mine was definitely not going to look as good as this one tho. Is nice to see this come to life after I failed to make it. Makes me want to continue it.

This is the first video I've seen of you and based on the production quality of the video, I really assumed you were a "big" KZfaqr. So I was all the more surprised when I found out that you only have 500 subscribers. I'm definitely one of them now.

Mate this is amazing

Love it! The noisy servos are a deal breaker for the bedroom though. Challenge for future add-on: small double digit seconds display, maybe on upper right, actuated by Nitinol (muscle wire). Or, maybe actuate the whole thing with Nitinol? If the moving printed parts are light enough, maybe could be done with little to no contact between moving parts and frame? Or maybe a few tiny magnets to provide spacing? Anyway, thanks for the great write up!

Love it. Will definitely take a look at it.

You can be used solenoid for movement of the segments, that will not make any noise and they are also very quick

for voltage control, get a dc buck converter for dropping voltage, or a dc boost converter to increase the voltage

Make more videos like this and your channel will blow up! Ps. Love the lo fi music in the background, matches your vibe perfectly

I love this idea and wanted to see more of the transitions.

You really need to get a textured PEI spring steel bed. The pieces just release automatically release once the sheets cool down, and if they don't you just flex the plate and they pop off. I tried the tempered glass for literally two prints before returning to Microcenter as the PLA basically welded itself to the surface and I could only get it off with cold water after a few minutes.

Hi Lukas, I'm currently in the process of building this too. Really looking forward to getting it finished but not going to rush it. I'm only just just getting the hang of 3D printing but not at the stage where I can design yet, so I was hoping if you'd be able to send the stl for the stand as its better than any attempt I could make at the moment. Also, it really finishes the clock off nicely and to me, I think it would be nice if the original creator added it. Anyway, what a great job you've made of your clock, if mine looks half as good I'll be very happy. Cheers

Great job Lukas!! Keep going plsss

nice video & worth the effort, gl man

Totally freakin' awesome! Nothing wrong with a tidy wiring job. Nerds Rule The World!

I love that you choose to leave it as white. Great project. I can image make it even better and use this perfect cut metal no spacing, that you can find on youtube. That will be really cool

Wow insane! And looks elegant AF

Very nice looking ... I saw another kinetic project a few months back that had me thinking about a clock -- I want to think the servo count can be greatly reduced using an indexed wheel (or drum) and some clever levering similar to a lot of old school auto play instruments (or new school, if you're a Wintergarten Marble Machine project fan). Each digit segment would need to be spring loaded.

very cool looking well done. But would micro linear actuators work better than servos? should make it more compact but don't know if sound levels would be better or not.

I think a small led integrated somewhere in the frame will cast shadow on the digits and make them pop and be more visible 🙂 Nice project!

Two easy ways to run 1 power cord to the project. The easy way would be to put the power supplies closer to the clock and run 1 power cable that splits to both of them. The better way would be to figure out what your peak usage would be (how many servos will need to move at the same time, or over shoot and add together all the servos amp draw together) and get a 5V. With 30 servos and 1 Arduino a 5V 30A PSU would be plenty and you could likely get aw with far less. Try out a 10 amp supply. But it's not about doing it perfect, its about making a cool idea and you did that for sure. Great work man. Its beautiful.

another fun mechanism would be servos with profiled cams that operate fingers to a group of segments.... so one servo could actuate several different combos of segments.

Congratulations dude, nice work

awesome project, i love it.

Put a LED on each rising part, to be visible in dark

Really cool, I like using threaded inserts to connect things together instead of hot glue

I LOVE THIS.

Imagine that with high precision metal parts that fit perfectly seamless 😮

Well done!

I'm guessing those tiny stepper motors would be quieter, but you'd have to have some feedback something to determine the current position on startup so you don't push the pieces all the way out or try to pull them through

I would use a 12V 2A power supply and two stepdown boards. One 5V for the Arduino and one 5V for the servos. The clock could be set via GPS module or radio receiver. In Germany the station is available at 77.5 kHz for the local time. That's longer than long wave radio. GPS transmits UTC, which is British time = GMT

just a tip for getting 3dprints off a glass bed is to put it in the fridge for roughly 30-45 mins. i spent way too much time and filament on trying to scrape it off, but i found putting it in a cold container for a little bit is the way to go.

You could try a dovetail joint to mount the Arduino. You could also look into some wire loom tape or tubing to clean up the cables even more.

You could reduce the number of servos if you would be ok with zero in the first digit not being shown. It only needs to display 0, 1 and 2, so if we don't display the zero (09 would be just 9) you could connect 29, 32, 33 and 35 together, also you wouldn't need 34. You could also connect 16 and 17 (or remove them completely, I don't think they are that important), which brings us to 25 servos. With the power problem - you could try multiplexing the servos and turn on just one digit at a time (or divide it into rows or whatever) and then quickly switch between powering each section, which would create the illusion of simultaneous movement, however as someone said, servos draw most power in the beginning of movement, so I'm not sure about the power efficiency and this would be probably louder too. Anyways, great project, I enjoyed it.

Complimenti 😊

Could an idea be to work with an electromagnet that just "pushes" items away (or pulls them back). Then we don't need servos?

Really cool! Few things I would change if I were to make it for myself (probably make it out of different material, because I like to use wood and metal). Also, if you make the sliding parts of the numbers slightly tapered towards the back, you could put leds behind it to make the numbers pop if you don't want a stealthy white on white look. But that would require another power supply ;)

That is so very cool! 👍👍