I did Emil Abrahamssons hangboard routine for 30 days and it worked great!

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3 жыл бұрын

A month ago, Emil Abrahamsson released a video about a Hangboard Routine which turned out to work very well for him. You can find his video here: • Hangboard Training 2 T...
I wanted to try it as well and followed the program as closely as possible, 2 times a day for 30 days.
Since I have limited Ressources at home, I did different MAX-hangs at the beginning and the end of the 30 days, however the training hangs were excatly the same (down to the pinky-streches ;) ). It ended up working great for me as well, as you can see in the video.
The routine ( copied from Emils video • Hangboard Training 2 T... ):
10 Seconds on, 50 seconds rest for each hang.
1. Four finger crimp on 14mm edge, 3 sets. (70-80% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
2. Three finger-drag in deep pocket, 3 sets. (70-80% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
3. Middle two finger-pocket, 1 set. (50-60% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
4. Front two finger-pocket, 1 set. (50-60% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
5. Middle two finger-crimp, 1 set (stretch pinkies during rest). (30-40% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
6. Front two finger-crimp, 1 set (stretch pinkies during rest). (30-40% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
Thanks again to Emil for maken this routine publicly available.
Link to his Channel: / @emilabrahamsson
Hooper's Beta did an excellent review of Emils Video.
This review can be found here: • CLIMBING BREAKTHROUGH!...
Link to their Channel: / @hoopersbeta
Sorry for the bad lighting in parts of my video, it looked way better on the display.

Пікірлер: 51

@fbimagesphoto 3 жыл бұрын

For everyone watching this and thinking of doing the same, apointed out by a couple research papers, low intensity, high volume training will have one main impact which is increased tendon stiffness. It is important to understand that, whilst your tendons will be able to apply more force, they will also be more susceptible to injury. It is advised to cycle with some low volume heavy load hangs to break cross links and preserve tendon elasticity. Happy hanging

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

You're making an important point, thank you :)

@JustAdude45 3 жыл бұрын

Isn't it the oppsite? High intensity low volume hangs (10 seconds like Emil did) stiffens the tendons, while low intensity high volume hangs (30 seconds as Hooper's Beta recomends) will preserve tendon elasticity.

@fbimagesphoto 3 жыл бұрын

@@JustAdude45 Emil's protocol is low intensity (you can see he is not lifting himself off the ground). High intensity would be 90% max and above in my opinion. Check out this talk (it's a bit lenghty but some very interesting learning points) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ec2ThZh7lsrbk40.html

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

@@JustAdude45 I thought Emils program is low intensity because of the frequent low load, which the short non-hangs on good holds provide? Hooper's Beta suggests 30 sec sub-max hangs to decrease stiffness and heal in the off-season and max hangs to increase stiffness (at around 13:53 in his video). So Felix might be wrong here when he says "low volume heavy load hangs preserve elasticity", at least according to Hooper's Beta. However, what confuses me, is the fact that Emils program allegedly increased the stiffness (according to Hooper's Beta), while clearly not being made up of max-hangs. At 8:30 in Hooper's Betas video he states that Emils connective tissue probably healed, yet at 13:53 states that healing comes with decreased stiffness, while Emils achievements are attributed to increased stiffness. There might be a contraction in this, I don't know.

@philipp1922 3 жыл бұрын

@@Michael_Schmatzberger Somehow it does not clear up to me why the short, low intensity hangs of Emil should increase stiffness. And the long, low intensity hangs of Hooper's Beta decrease stiffness.

@santinosartoris 3 жыл бұрын

sick dude. about to start this tomorrow so this has me psyched

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks, good luck!

@escaladaseguraamimanera3621 3 жыл бұрын

impresionante. funciona. la practica lo es todo

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

"la practica lo es todo" correcto :)

@SileDevil 3 жыл бұрын

impressive, might have a go at this program. how long does a session last with rest included?

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

10 minutes. however, I do mobilize my fingers beforehand, so more like 12. Perfect for a short break in your daily routine :)

@lucalem8640 3 жыл бұрын

Good job ! I was wondering on a scale of 1 to 10. What was the intensity of each effort to you (training) ?

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

Thank you :) I would give the four-finger-crimp a 4/10 and the three-finger-drag a 3/10 in intensity. 4/10 for both non-hangs on the deep two-finger-pocket. The last two non-hangs on the shallow two-finger-pockets were a bit more intense, maybe 5 out 10. Overall, the hangboard routine had an easy to moderate intensity, I could do it without warming up, just one or two minutes of mobilizing the fingers beforehand. If you are new to hangboarding or on a different climbing level, I would suggest you to adjust the routine accordingly :)

@diegoaarav5960 2 жыл бұрын

instaBlaster

@Chrisi231 3 жыл бұрын

Have you stopped climbing/bouldering during these trainings oder was it additional to all the other sessions?

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

I didn't climb/boulder during these trainings. However, I did some other hangboarding in addition (my usual routine which is just for holding my level until the gyms open again). i wouldn't suggest to stop with climbing, if you have the opprtunity to climb.

@Chrisi231 3 жыл бұрын

and also, was there a extra warm up befor the 10 Minutes hangs?

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

I do mobilize my fingers for 1 or 2 minutes beforehand, but no warmup other than that.

@gc22696 2 жыл бұрын

Do you think this protocol makes sense for a newer climber trying to recover/overcome tendinitis? Basically I can’t climb more than 2-3 days a week because of forearm pain that creeps in towards the end of my sessions and makes climbing back to back days or even with two rest days difficult

@Michael_Schmatzberger 2 жыл бұрын

Well my first tip would be to reach out to someone who is actually educated on tendinitis like Hoopers Beta. I am not, unfortunately. My opinion: Since it is so low in intensity, it's probably safe to try. From my experience, everything that helps to supply the regions with blood (like massage) while also not putting them under stress and instead reliefing them of stress is good.

@chazott 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing. This is helpful. I'm curious what your results will be if you modify to the 30 second hang period as recommended in Hoopers Beta.

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

I will probably have a little shorter MAX hangs on the 15mm and 10mm edges, as my tendons are not as stiff any more. However, I might at the same time lay down a foundation for stronger fingers overall. What this training period really showed is an excellent way to reach a peak in performance. I will continue with the 30 sec perior throughout the year. If a competition or project is in line, I will switch to shorter hangs. A few years ago I didn't know anything about training and just tried to be as good as possible all the time. Needless to say I plateaued a lot. So in short: I am probably weaker again, when it comes to max hangs, but I will be stronger overall.

@boulderfighters2590 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing your results. I also thought about trying it out but I don't have a hangboard at home any more. In which way do you plan to modify the plan? And for how long did you do some hangboarding before that? I guess you also did not do any other hangboarding apart from the two hangs each day as done by Emil?

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

I increased the hangtime of some of the hangs. Currently I do 10 sec 33mm edge, 10 sec 15 mm edge, 20 sec on both, 30 sec on both, 20 sec in the deep fingerpocket, 10 sec in the shallowe one. The 10 minute-1-hang-per-minute format stays the same. So it is a little bit more intense, a little more hang-time. I train on the beastmaker 2000 (my first hangboard) since November 2019, took it very slow in the beginning. Your last question adresses an important issue I forgot to mention: unlike Emil, I did other hangboarding too. He did climb next to his routine, I couldn't climb. So I continued with my normal hangboard routine as well. How do I know then that this routine worked well, you might ask. It is because of the slow progress I made before (or in fact no progress on max-onearms in january for example) , which doesn't compare at all. I honestly don't think I would have achieved this progress just through the routine alone - just like Emil some other "main" training should be upheld as well.

@Brewsto 3 жыл бұрын

did you have any injuries before the 30day program? did they recover?

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

I didn't have any beforehand.

@Brewsto 3 жыл бұрын

@@Michael_Schmatzberger your personal all time best one arm's are after the program or you have matched the numbers years ago? Did you stop all other hangboard protocols? thanks in advance

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

@@Brewsto Those are my personal all-time bests now. They are quite a bit above my previous PBs. I didn't stop all other hangboard protocols, as they are my only way to stay in shape right now. However, my usual hangboard routine has never given me a comparatively big boost, in fact it doesn't even come close. It ususualy helps me just to hold my level, so it probably didn't play a deciding role now, however I can't rule it out with certainty. I wouldn't say I am scientific proof :)

@Brewsto 3 жыл бұрын

@@Michael_Schmatzberger interesting! you will have great results on rock soon for sure!

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

@@Brewsto If I ever get the chance to climb in the same spot for more than one session, I will! ^^

@hasansarpucar 3 жыл бұрын

Do you continue doing this?

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

not right now. I don't think it would be useful to do it all the time and frankly I lack the motivation as well. I will start with it again, once I have a new long-term project with small edges. Somewhere in autumn or early winter, i will most definetly do a month of this again, and hopefully peak in small-edge finger strenght when I need it. unfortunately, a few things I planned to do are on hold due to severe and chronic neck pain. my next videos will only be about moonboard benchmarks...

@tallgeese9715 3 жыл бұрын

What are the improvements in terms of grades?

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

I would love to know too, but all climbing gyms in my country have been closed since October last year :/

@tallgeese9715 3 жыл бұрын

@@Michael_Schmatzberger Looking strong, might just give this a try. At any point did you feel like you may injure your finger?

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

@@tallgeese9715 During the protocol itself: no. During the MAX-hangs: maybe, since there is always a high risk when going to your limit. hoewever, i went slowly into it and was properly warmed up (45 minutes), so nothing happened.

@tallgeese9715 2 жыл бұрын

@@Michael_Schmatzberger did you ever improve grade wise?

@Michael_Schmatzberger 2 жыл бұрын

@@tallgeese9715 everything went up a grade. 7c felt like 7b+ before, and so on. my max went from 7c+ (which was my plateau for 2 years) to 8a. I plan to start this hangboard program again before I project some 8a+ outdoors early next year. Right now I'm too busy studying.

@andreatimillero393 2 жыл бұрын

se vuoi fumarla per più di 4 minuti basta farla ripartire appena si spegne :)

@timmayer574 3 жыл бұрын

Just like Felix advises, it was supposed to be low intensity. Emil had his feet on the ground the whole time. I followed his program to, and it worked a treat, in terms of healing and strength. Your own version is just a recipe for injury in both fingers and shoulders.

@Michael_Schmatzberger 3 жыл бұрын

I think there might be a misunderstanding. I followed exactly the same program that emil did. What you see in this video however, is not the program itself. In this video I just show my test hangs before and after the 30 days. Again, just like Emil did (he does MAX hangs with feet of the floor in his video as well, to test his progress). Yes, MAX hangs with the feet of the ground bear a high risk of injury and I don't recommend doing it, yet it's pretty much the easiest way to determine progress in maximum performance. So, to be frank, I'm actually not as innovative as you think, I really did just straight up copy from emil (to heighten comparability). And I'm happy that following his program worked great for you!

@josb2210 3 жыл бұрын

Such a strong statement from someone who does not understand the video