What is a typical price for an install like this?

Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) kzfaq.infoUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.

I bought the 24000btu OMO brand on Amazon. Paid around $1300 but now is $999. Never installed A/C before and never ran 220v before, but had it done by myself total of around 5-6 hours. Most of the time was trying to find where to mount the units and reading directions. They say you can install without pulling vacuum, but I pulled vacuum anyways to check for leaks and to make sure the lines are clear. Line set was installed with Nylog Blue. 1 year later through winter, freeze and now summer, it still runs like a champ! Really quiet too..

I got one of these heat pumps because of your video and I love it! It works beautiful in our little 500 square foot extension. My favorite part was installing the line set through the wall. I have never seen that before. It makes everything look super clean. I am so happy,! Thank you!!!!

Im an IT field engineer and unlicensed electrician for a little over 20 years. Your videos and some other HVAC videos make me want to change professions.

I installed a 18000 btu mini split several years ago myself if they're installed correctly, these little units are fantastic, really hurting the HVAC contractors they hate them🤣 and trash talk them unless they are installing them for a rediculus amount if a homeowner has any mechanical skills whatsoever they are very simple and work amazing on heating/cooling and electric bill. Great video!

I dont subscribe to channels but i am to yours. Not everyone can be a teacher, you have that skill. You explain every detail and miss nothing.. love it.. good job

I installed a mini split 13 years ago. All I did was purge some of the 410 through the evap. It's been working flawless since.

I installed the C&H mini 3yrs ago. The 10ft lines are flared from the factory. No flare tool needed for the DIY. I coiled up the extra line and strapped it to the side of the house. $900 mini split, $400 installation supplies and $250 for HVAC tech to vacuum test. I leave it on 24/7 with no issues. These are great additions to any small workshop or garage.

As a certified HVAC instructor here in the northwest I have so many questions. For the most part I like your ambition and your dedication to precision. On the other hand, you really need to learn how to use your tools properly and with the right procedure. Don't get me wrong I'm not here to do any bashing I’m just here to give you more encouragement in the right direction. Nylog is not a good lubricant for flares refrigeration oil is. Good quality tubing bender will help you in the future just in case you kink a fitting and have to start all over. Crescent wrenches are directional using backwards defeats the fulcrum effect actually can cause stripping of the flair nut. When tightening a flare tighten it down snug point to point back it off and then tighten to your final tightness. This will allow you to have a nice solid connection without a torque wrench. Mini splits do not have any type of line dryer for moisture therefore all manufacturers require a triple evacuation which means you put a vacuum on the system to somewhere around 1000 Micron break it with nitrogen then evacuate somewhere 800 break it with nitrogen evacuate down to 400 break with nitrogen and then to your final evacuation. Also most manufacturers require under 400 micron stable. This ensures there is no moisture in the system. My target is always under 120 and of course it’s always a good idea to get as low as possible. This ensures there is no leaks and no moisture. The disconnect you installed has wires going through brick that have no grommet or insulation that is required by code. The wire colors you chose is nonstandard but the endpoints are the same so wire color doesn't matter. Nice choice on the field piece manifold. To properly do a pressure test you need to hook up your suction temperature probe to the line so you have your differential reading accurately. Overall, I love what you're doing I wish I had your knowledge when I started out back in 84. The way I was taught was just do it with no explanation and I was taught wrong until I went to school and learned the correct way to do things. Keep going on what you're doing heating and air conditioning technicians at your caliber are well sought after.

If you’re using 2 wire Mc you need to red or black tape those whites so they don’t get mistaken as neutrals.

Nice install, I always make a quick check with soap+water with low nitrogen (20 to 50 psi) in the flare connections, after that I raise the nitrogen pressure to the desired target (150-200 psi) check again and left the time leak test run.

Having done tens of thousands of wire connections myself. A pro taught me that on any upturned lug where you connect wires, place the wire under the left side of the saddle entry. In this the wire will be always pulled into the direction of the tightening screw or nut. Same practice is clockwise twist when you reshape stranded wires or twist wires together for a wire nut. Just good habits for best practice. Your good attention to detail has captured my attention so I subscribed.

Just a note for others doing this themselves. The hor horizontal rail is made to get bolted to the house, then hang the vertices off of that. The vertical brackets have the holes if you can just mount them directly to the wall without the horizontal. The way this was done, the horizontal rail does absolutely nothing for the integrity of the supporting of the unit and should have been left off. And yes, you should use a torque wrench, especially if you are new to these things. Not a bad install for a homeowner, not a great one for a professional, hopefully this is closer to the first one. Line set is way short, not sure if the book calls that out. We take a lot of these units out after less than 5 years old, but never installed low end minisplits

The challenge on these things is.. the condensate drain. Also, maintaining moisture barrier where necessary wall penetrations are made. If you collect drain to a rain barrel, water garden plants or something. But drain is in the wall, that needs a P-trap like any other fixture as a gas block but: add a [normally plugged] fill port for winter as evaporation demands. Personal preference on condenser unit? Keep it 3 or 4 feet off the ground. That makes clearing growth easier and also avoids dirt accumulation around coil that driving rains, bugs, etc sometimes introduce -- leave at least a foot clearance from eaves or overhangs to give waste heat space to roll out. The install as shown? I would run hose over to a rain gutter, or aquafunge will later start growing on the shingles. Won't hurt anything probably, but cleaning becomes an annual chore - do not use a pressure washer. Placing a biocide tablet in condensate tray of indoor unit will go a long way in reducing maintenance.

The guts of this definitely look to be the same exact ones as the Mr. Cool Advantage line. I think I got my Advantage for $700 a few years ago. My only complaints were that it didn't have good temperature sensing on the indoor unit, so it would swing wildly during the night while we slept. (The temperature sensor in that clear PVC tubing isn't very responsive or accurate to the actual room temp) Swapped it out for a Mitsubishi in 2021 and the room holds temp perfectly now. The Advantage is doing A/C and heat duty in my garage now, can't fault it in there when you just need full heat or full cooling.

The horizontal part of the wall mounting bracked has slots that allow it to be bolted into studs rather than the siding.

I do this as well. I charge the cost of the unit plus 1500.00 to install. I work out of my house, no building overhead. It pays the bills and I have extra left over to live one. When a company gives a 8000.00 to 10000.00 to replace furnace and air conditioner. I will show the home owner the exact cost of buying the equipment. In and average house everything needed to replace this will cost on average 4000.00. This also includes additional material needed to install. During the summer the parts houses run specials and will sell everything in a package deal. That usually saves 300.00 to 500.00 depending on the system. That savings should be past on to the customer, but big companies do not pass this on. When they tell you they can save you 1000.00 if you schedule and install, they could actually give you 2500.00 and still make a profit.

This unit is build by Midea, a Chinese white box mini split company, they produce for a dozen of "brand" Like Senville, Mr Cool, Lennox, Goodman, Carrier, and many more

In 1980s I was in air-conditioning business .Watching your videos I'm impressed that young person like you have so much knowledge .You always doing thinks right .In my HVAC days there was two basic refrigerants R12 and R22. 30 pounds of R22 was 65 $. Thank you for showing home owners that HVAC is not rocket science.

Minis Split defiantly are incredible. I wired a large fire station a few years back and while not exactly a mini split such as this it had 2 Daikin VRV units outdoor and many cassette units in the dorms,offices locker, lounge rooms etc. It worked incredibly well in the summer and the units also produced heat for the winter. Other than just a couple pieces of duct for bringing fresh air into the building there was no other duct work crowding and taking all the room above the ceilings (which as an electrician is appreciated). Thing that surprised me the most is how little electricity these things use. Normally a building this size i would be used to hooking up at least 3 or 4 60amp heat pumps out side and same amount indoors. I think both units had a max fuse of 45amps and put my clamp meter on them running on the hottest day of the year think they were only pulling 10-12amps on each leg.

this video is several levels above every else I've watched .. in professionalism ..

Homeowner quoted $5000 to install an $800 unit. That price is criminal. Yeah, I know contractors have expenses but that price is robbery. I especially like these DIY videos because theyre upsetting to the supposed tradesman who make a living ripping people off.

I didn't want to go to Refrigerant School to install the dam thing

I have a MrCool and yes it was very easy. I did not realize that other units were still precharged, just not the line set. Good to know.

Nice looking install and cool tools! The only Issue I saw was with the line volt, there should have been a fitting on the end of the mc cable to connect to the back of the disconnect, at minimum a bushing. Also the service disconnect is supposed to be within sight or reach of the unit. you could have came out of the wall to a wp j-box then seal-tite to the next level and place your service disconnect there. Some places only allow 6 feet of whip but it just depends.

A tip: you should never use the flare joints that are pre-installed. They are always trash, especially on cheaper units, and will fail on you. Highly recommend you just re-terminate them during install. The tools and materials to do this will save you a lot of money and trouble down the line.

That unit has a minimum lineset distance of 10ft and a maximum of 25ft, I believe, so while it'll work with the precharge, at 3-4ft of lineset it should have some of the R410a pulled out for max efficiency. That said, that's a very clean install and well done.

I like to use spray foam on the copper lines. You can mold it to the form you need to fit through the wall. Helps prevent condensation.

Very sharp - install , and detailed explanation , people who knows basic terms on HVAC , and knowledge on the use those great tools - flaring , service valve adapters , it makes the job much easier , thanks for your video 👍

Nice job, I've heard of guys cutting the flared fittings on the indoor unit the minimize leaks for the future. They connect the line set by using copper couplings and brazing them. Purging with nitrogen would be necessary to prevent clogging of the filter driyers or check valves on the system.

great job on most everything, i like that you give reasons why you do this or that as you go through the process. one thing I would note is your using two conductor cable w/ ground wiring (12/2) for your 220 circuit. You should technically put black (or red) tape on the white wire at each end to indicate the white wire is a LINE feed, and not a neutral.

Incredible job, only thing I would add is to change the zip ties to the outdoor rated black ones, the white ones get brittle very quick when exposed to the elements

You didn't mention the refrigerant pipe lengths which will give optimum performance. The spec sheets would have given a minimum and maximum pipe run.

I install the diy mrcooler 3split 3ton took my 2 hours only 4k things works perfectly

Created a potential problem by slicing the foam insulation on the head line set. Just bend it back as a package and you'll be fine. Installed my unit a year ago and I love it. Cheap to run.

I think every Air Conditioner, the split one at least, requires at least 3 meter of pipe, Short pipe is going to make compressor work harder and it's get overheat overtime, because there's no room left for the refrigerant to get cooled/hot enough. To make sure, check your manual says, however the information I get is kinda general rule of thumb, 3-5meter, 12meter is maximum. I get this information from technician not necessarily AC manufacturer. The other one is always place your Outdoor condenser lower than the evaporator so the OIL doesn't stuck inside your evaporator when it's not in use.

I bought the cheapest one on eBay ~$500, installed it myself, 3 months later I'm still very pleased with it. I intend to install a second one that i bought at the same time, but the one is maintaining temperature even with 90+ outdoor temperature.

Don't forget to pull that head unit apart once a year and clean the mildew build up behind the condenser and the barrel fan...

You could save a lot of time and potential for leaks if you just cut the insulation off the condensation lines like you were cutting a pipe then just slide the sleave off, rather than cutting the entire length.

Very clean install except one thing. You need to put a drip loop on the lines so rain water doesn't follow the freon lines into the wall. That or maybe some sort of sealer or diverter on the bottom of the lines. Thanks for sharing the details.

Here in Vietnam, you can have a 12k btu unit installed for you... For $250, including installation. $350 and you can get a nicer inverter type.

thanks for being respectable on install cost. Sadly, some contractors want people to pay their $500k mortgage, $100k truck and $400k boat payment with one install. Then, they bitch when they need to come back out and fix their crappy work.

well done. great video. i like your use and explanations of the modern tools and equipment. thanks!

I put it through the wall Frigidaire 2 ton unit in for total price of $690. It works fantastic and I will never go back to indoor outdoor split units. Put a package out side if I have to. Can be worked on easy and replaced easy. Vince can be put in soffits in conditioned spaces.

Great video! Im installing my Tosot 12,000 BTU, I had looked at the Mr Cool, but that was like $1800 and quite a lot of neg comments about their customer service end of things, so I went with the Tosot which was about $899

I did a C&H system with four ceiling cassette 2 years ago to replace the HVAC system. I'm a remodeler but have never done AC and I learned everything about how to do it on line. I won't tell you its easy, it was a lot of work but I'm glad I did it. The mini split is sooo much more efficient than a conventional HVAC and now I run the heating and cooling on a solar system, even on the battery back up so even if the utility is down I still have heat and AC. I'm not sure about branding, after I installed my C&H system I worked in a house that had the same system with Mitsubishi branding so clearly different brands come off the same line.

I love your videos. I live on the Eastcoast, and I would like to add mini splits throughout my home. Is it safe to get rid of my furnace to use the mini splits for heating and cooling. Also, is there a way to sync all the mini splits?

This is a video of the best way to cause water damage of your home. DO NOT run your power/refrigerant lines like he did unless you like water damage. ALWAYS add a drip loop.

I installed my Mr Cool 4 years ago, it stil works without fail.

I have done 3 Pioneers, piece of cake....had a warranty issue and they were great to work with.

I just installed one of these about 2 months ago and just did a pioneer today, the pioneer is exactly the same, identical

Did my CH dual in ceiling cassettes 2 years ago. Replaced old heat pump so I had 240v present already. Easy install but attic mounting a bit tricky (worth it). Extra bought a manual flare kit and vacuum pump, crescent torque wrench. No nitrogen. KZfaq University helped with installs. Don't like the CH app. Cheaper units available non Amazon nice wifi apps. 110⁰ So. Cal. summers all works great. Thanks for your video. Helping neighbors install mini-splits. Saved myself $5k DIY.😅

Great views of the mountains, all flat here in Texas. Good clean install

I’d recommend spending just a little bit more for a Pioneer. Not only is the Pioneer higher efficiency with better specs and features but they honor their 5 year warranty on DIY installs and have a US based HQ for support and parts. You also significantly kinked the vapor line by not using a tubing bender or a spring. But in general you can install your own ductless for around one third or eve one quarter what the big companies charge for similar hardware and 4 hours of labor.

Cooper and hunters are the best budget, straight to consumer ductless unit. Id compare them to the new model carriers, I installed a 24000 btu 2 zone, heat pump c&h for a buddy who picked it up on marketplace for 1000$ i install hvac everyday and I'm actually installing 3 carrier mini splits between today and tomowrow and between the different features plus the similar seer ratings, theyre very similar. Over a year and a half later the ductless units are still going strong with no issues so far, id definitely reccomend cooper and hunter, it brought everything needed to do it minus the tools

They work great. Ive used that brand before. Less than $1000 and cools a large area.

Nice job. If that were my home, I would have asked that the disconnect be mounted on the house exterior wall and up higher so that it would be accessible to the technician on the roof as well as to anyone standing next to the sliding door. The only extra would have been to route the supply power from one wall to the other wall on the exterior. Just a thought.

I've considered putting this type of unit in, both, my attached (3-car) and detached (2-car with workshop area) garages to use when I'm doing some work in one of the garages--when its 98F in the summer or 28F in the winter. Both garages are insulated to the same same standard of my house--the garage doors are insulated, as well (home was built in 2016).

Been using the Spyder hole saws for a couple years now for drilling through brick and block,only need regular cordless drill! I used to drag around my sdr,but those were a game changer

I have a C&H in the back of my RV and a Pioneer in the front of my RV. I travel the U.S. for work. I've been in all sorts of weather. C&H works better for heating. Pioneer for cooling. Both are awesome for both heating and cooling.

I've got no idea how I ended up on an HVAC tutorial, but great video. I have absolutely no need for a new air conditioning system, but great video nonetheless.

Would like to hear more pro and cons from your perspective on the cheap units that require pro install vs Mr. Cool self-install.

Nice job as usual! Just a small constructive criticism sir. This is something a DIYER would do, would like to have seen ya do the manual flair on line set so we could see that. I know you do these all the time and using the cool tools you use are much more convenient but I would not spend the money for that. But, great install! I have heard these don't last long. What is your thoughts?

question,,,,,, suction line looks as if it almost kinked....... did you do anything to correct the flat spot????

Such good info here. Thank you so much for taking the time to make the video and share.

Build one yourself, I have a prototype. All you need is an air to air heatexchanger, a water evaporator (humidifier) and 3 fans. My prototype doesn't show the 2 hoses that you suppose to connect outside of the room. It's cheap it only uses water and some power to spin the fans. The water evaporator replaces the compressor.

Best insulation and proper verbiage as to electrical and AC. Thank you.

So was this unit high enough quality to install? What is your opinion about the unit?

who knew installing AC was so simple, its crazy that an ac like this cost anything more than 2k (part/labor), it just makes more sense to learn how to do it yourself.

VIEWERS BEWARE: He demonstrates a GREAT JOB NOT reading the electrical requirements for the unit. Max fuse size is 15 amps and he used a 20 amp breaker. The disconnect needs to be in sight of the unit to be code compliant. A micron is a measure of length...wtf is 5 microns in units of vacuum pressure? Where the hell is the connector in the rear of the disconnect? Just another code violation AND your only electrical concern was the panel cover. You oversize the breaker and while citing what is up to code by not leaving a breaker knockout uncovered (they do make blanks for that) and you still have the cajones to post this video. Bravo.

I'm a Gunsmith and i have a fairly large shop and the summers and winters can be tough to heat and cool. In the summer I just run huge pedestal fans 2 of them and in the winter i have a 50,000 btu Big Buddy propane heater and run it on 100# propane bottles when it gets really cold i burn 23 gallons a week @$2.79 a gallon $64 a week is a tad expensive. So i bought the 24K unit from amazon and am having our heating and A/C guy put it in. He's semi retired like me, I called and he said $500 to inst. so I said lets do it. I bought the wire and breakers and the unit from amazon was $1187 delivered he said he has done a few of these units before and they are good especially for a shop. He'll finish the wiring Tues. and i'll be anxious to see how it works. I have a wood stove in the winter so i'm mostly interested in cooling it for summer. Standing in front of a lathe all day when it's 90 is not so fun anymore.

I use my Klein impact rated socket driver daily. But in all honesty, you charged these people a robbery amount of money. Im a journeyman HVAC tech and I hold my electrical license as well. I’ve been doing HVAC since 2002, could of purchased this unit for $500, plus $2500 for install

Nice install, but what about line set length. Isn’t there a minimum amount? Next time try mounting the horizontal bracket to the wall then you can adjust the brackets to what you need.

You really did a very neat and clean job

for that unit with those short lines you could have problems with a very low superHeat that could damage the compressor in a few years... check that and eventually recover a part of gas from the unit

2:25 yoooo, that view

Thank you. Love your videos and sharing your knowledge. I would love to put a mini split in my camper van and run it off solar. Video Ideas for the future? Cheers

Why drill the entry next to the electrical conduit outside? The best practice would be further away from any electrical lines. FYI, there are knock-out plugs to place onto the electrical box cover. I have installed many. All meet codes.

That conduit on the roof wall almost ruined your morning, lol, nothing is easy!

I've installed hundreds of Cooper and Hunter Inverters and I've never had a call back. One warranty problem with a sensor that I replaced. I also installed a split unit version in my own home. Never had a problem yet in over five years. By the way they are furthest from being the cheapest. There are several models from top of the line seer ratings to lower seer versions. There is junk in this market but Cooper and Hunter isn't one of them. Also I'd like to say that some do not have great customer service or part availability. C&H has both for everyone's FYI. IT MAKES A HUGE DIFFERENCE.

My ocd went insane when you didn't use the bubble level slot on the wall bracket

Putting an minisplit unit in the garage increases your usable space. I finished off my garage in 2019 and we use it all the time.

Would think that foil tape would be better suited after cutting the insulation than Gorilla tape. The Gorilla tape could succumb to the same problem that duck tape does, which it doesn't stick well after several hot and cold seasons

Great install! Not that I would need to do this- but definitely interesting to find that this not a weekend warrior job. Need a pro with proper tools.

You can put blue painters tape across to mark on it. An not the wall fyi.

Is there supposed to be a minimum for linesets like 10 or 15 feet?

Nice video. I personally would not use the customer nice outdoor seating for any type of work. oil, dirt from hands, tools etc. Look into portable table in future .😊

How did the head unit lineset come to be almost insede the wall? Thats nuts.

Excellent video, So are these re badged Senville units, or are Senville units rebadged C+H because they appear identical, I have fitted a Senville here in Canada and its awesome.Oh and what did it cost? Thanks Dave

I started install today on a C&H, the installation manual doesn't have a wiring diagram and the wires are different colors on the inside unit than on the wires that run outside. I called to ask for clarification and the girl that answered seemed personally offended that I asked for help. She kept telling me to match the wires. That's great advice if they match. She sent me to the back of the line because I asked to speak to someone else. :(

Thoughts on angling the air handler slightly toward the drain discharge side?

Excellent video, you're a stand up guy. God bless 🙏

You spent the extra money and got an auto flare tool for your linesets, but you bent your tubing by hand. You left a damaged flat spot on your outdoor suction line due to this. Always use a tube bender for this.

That system is identical to my Senville Unit.

How long will the Cheapest Mini-Split on Amazon last? Do you know? We installed a Mitsubishi Mr Slim 12 years ago and it has worked flawlessly.

Another awesome video, Dave! I'm actually installing a same 24k unit pretty soon.

rule of thumb for the amount of air conditioning needed for a space is 1 ton per every 500 sq ft.

They suppose to be better than a window unit. But they cost way more! All i do is open a window spread the siding out and set it and seal around it. Plug it in and ready to fire it up

I always put some Nylog between the flare and nut, to reduce friction on the flare. I don't know if it actually helps but it never hurt it either.